|03-28-2014 04:27 PM|
|lilMAC25||Also, I got my hands on a 20A fuse tap, and aligned as shown in an earlier post on this page, it works perfectly!|
|03-28-2014 04:23 PM|
Sorry for the iPotato pics.
|03-28-2014 12:45 AM|
ETA: the fuse slot indicated by the screwdriver in the above pic was a switched fuse slot, meaning it was only on when the key was in the RUN position. Which is EXACTLY what I was wanting.
|03-28-2014 12:35 AM|
|flyfish29||I respect your honesty with him on admitting it was your mistake and choosing not to take advantage of his company. There's not enough people like you. They also must have great customer service reps!! When I do this ill reward them with my business. Good luck.|
|03-27-2014 11:51 PM|
Fuse box with tap installed. This shot is from the passengers side toward the rear drivers side of the fuse box.
Fuse box with screwdriver pointing to fuse slot used. This shot is more from the fron toward the rear drivers side of the fuse box.
ETA: I'm buying a 20A fuse tap to replace the 10A one shown here, as turning both seats to High burnt out the 10A fuse. Depending on the literature, I'm seeing 3A/set (6A total with both on) or 6A/set (meaning 12A total with both on). The 20A version should be plenty.
|03-27-2014 11:01 PM|
Ok, after some diligent internet sleuthing, I believe I've discovered what I want to do for power.
I based it off of the following thread (apologies if there is a rule against cross linking, just delete if that's the case)
I purchased a 10A Fuse tap, 14G-16G connectors (I bought the ones that come covered with rubber, that you slide the stripped wire into each end then crush) and 20 ft of 14G primary wiring. I drilled a hole in the fuse box in the manner described in the linked thread. I resealed that hole with LocTite Waterproof Silicone. I did NOT plug in the fuse tap at this point.
Ran the 14G power wire around edge of the engine bay. Secured it with zip ties.
I made a TINY incision in a rubber membrane on the drivers side of the engine compartment to run my wire through. I also coated this hole with the Silicone to reseal it.
I ran and secured my power wire under the center console, then used another connector to connect power wire from engine bay to seat heaters. I simply twisted the stripped ends of the two 18G power wires from passenger and driver seat heaters. I wrapped this connection in electrical tape, because I'm anal.
Then I yanked my negative terminal off and plugged in the fuse tap and reattached my negative terminal.
It works. Which us AWESOME!
Only issue is that the fuse spot it's currently plugged in is constant on, and I'd MUCH prefer a switched power source. So I'm trying to decipher which fuse slot will do that.
|03-27-2014 03:55 PM|
Good to know. I'll proceed then. Now I just need to figure out where to tap into a switched power supply.
|03-27-2014 03:40 PM|
Ugh, another question...
My 2012 JKU Rubi has power mirrors... So there is no cigarette lighter on the left side. I COULD tie into the power source on the right, but it's constant, iirc.
Sooooo.... Where should I tap into?
|03-27-2014 03:12 PM|
I just spoke to Keith over at Cobraheat. According to him, it's not safe to continue using it after I cut it. He even offered to replace mine free of charge. I politely declined as I am the one who screwed up (once on each butt warmer), not him.
My plan is to yank the seat bottom warmers today (I've got the interior of the jeep well and properly stripped, so it won't take me more than 10 min) and continue with running all the wiring. I'll go ahead and set everything up, and when the new order arrives, I'll slide in the new bottom warmers, CAREFULLY cut out a space for the tie downs and connect the wiring. It'll be a much easier install this time. I'll use some good scissors and fold the warmer so that I won't cut the wire. I'm such a klutz at times.
|03-27-2014 12:59 PM|
You'll just a little dead spot.
|03-27-2014 11:23 AM|
|03-27-2014 10:35 AM|
[censored]. I managed to slice one of the wires. And now I've sliced one strand of wire on each side. [censored] [censored] [censored]
A. Will I burn up my Jeep?
B. Will the seat heater still work?
|03-24-2014 12:58 AM|
|baddandy||Yup, cut 1/2 slits between the wires. My wire pattern is in a diamond formation. Cut the slits in the middle of a diamond.|
|03-23-2014 03:27 PM|
Asking, because the seats don't really follow their original contour anymore (without something holding down the cloth in those spots that the warmer now covers).
|03-23-2014 12:35 PM|
|03-23-2014 10:37 AM|
I've got the heaters installed in the seats, but it haven't connected any wiring yet.
Also, is it ok to punch holes in the heater to tie it down better to the little plastic bar in the foam (bottom half, 2012 jeep)?
|01-20-2014 07:07 PM|
|yomondo||Sorry lysol, I don't know the answers to your questions.|
|01-19-2014 08:52 PM|
|01-19-2014 10:48 AM|
Also, I want to be able to pull the fabric up in the back of the seat where the map pockets are. Can I at least pull that part up? Is there a zipper or something back there?
This is the area that I'm referring to in the back (I'm planning on installing lumbar support if I can peal the fabric up high enough):
|01-12-2014 01:12 AM|
|01-11-2014 04:53 PM|
After leaving my seats on TWICE and needing to be jumped TWICE, I finally fixed my wiring. (Again, this is on my 2012 JK Sahara.) I had originally wired the hot lead to the 12V plug that's within the arm rest. This is not a switched power supply and is always on. Whoops. To rewire, I tapped into the 12V outlet near the climate controls. This was trickier than I anticipated - nothing like yomondo's writeup.
To remove the climate control panel, I needed to also remove the dashboard that surrounds the gauges and radio. For the sake of completeness to my install, and to satisfy my OCD, here are the steps I took to get behind that climate control panel.
Removing the climate control panel on the 2012 JK Sahara
1. Remove the small tray on top of the dash. Under this is a screw, remove.
2. Under the steering wheel is a 'U' shaped cover. It's held in with clips and can be removed by pulling from it's top and working your way down.
3. This will reveal two screws at the top of the 'U' - one on either side of the steering wheel, remove them.
4. Remove the window switch assembly. This was a bit tricky but it's only held in with some clips. I gently pushed a small pry bar under the bottom edge to lift it out. Be careful to not damage your dashboard! A plastic "spudge" tool might be better.
5. Once loose, you need to unplug the switched. This plug is held in place with a red sliding lock - just like the ones on your doors. (You have removed your doors before, right? )
6. Under the switches you just removed, there's another screw, remove.
7. The top dash can now be removed. Start on the left and pull it straight towards the back of the car (the clips are parallel to the ground). i inserted my fingers into the vent to get a better grip. Work your way around to the radio and you should be able to remove this with little trouble. Try lowering the steering wheel for more clearance.
8. This now exposes two large tabs that are on the top of the climate control panel. Grab the top of that panel and pull. That's it!
I also removed the center console (the part that surrounds the shifter, etc) and the small panel that has the mini cargo net. To get to the heated seat power wires, I also had to remove the passenger seat - I probably could have avoided this. Oh well.
The plug for the 12V outlet looks like this:
Only two of those have wires: the bottom is ground, the other is hot power - tap into that.
Sorry for the lack of pics! Best of luck!
|01-03-2014 04:36 PM|
|01-02-2014 11:47 AM|
I ended up extending the switch wiring and mounted below the window controls. Looks great!
Btw. These seats get HOT!
|01-02-2014 07:08 AM|
|01-01-2014 10:49 PM|
I just finished installing on my 2010 JK. My wife's 2013 JKU already has factory heated seats.
|01-01-2014 02:45 PM|
|01-01-2014 02:43 PM|
Also did you do this on your wife's 2013? If so were there any differences with the interior redesign? Did she have seat airbags?
|01-01-2014 01:30 PM|
I took the liberty of converting Yomondo's tutorial into a PDF. I did this mainly for myself as it is easier to read on ipad this way and it makes it easier to print out if needed (sometimes I like to take notes as I am installing things with lots of steps)
anyway, thought I would share it in case anyone else wanted it.
|01-01-2014 12:40 AM|
|12-31-2013 10:54 AM|
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