|11-25-2013 01:36 PM|
|Coyote_94YJ||To you guys who are welding the shift collar to the axle... I hope you are not welding to the outer axle shaft at all. Not even remotely a good idea. If you have to remove the axle shaft for any reason you are totally screwed. There are some simple jobs like replacing the outer axle seal or replacing the steering u-joint that require you to pull the axle shaft and if you've welded the collar to the outer axle seal you are just going to have to buy and install a whole new axle assembly because that shift collar will not pass through the axle tube. Please make sure you are just welding to the inner axle shaft.|
|11-25-2013 01:21 PM|
|11-25-2013 12:42 AM|
|AlaskanTimberWolf||Thanks, Coyote_94YJ! This mod fixed my issue wonderfully! I did make one slight modification to the original idea... I placed a metal washer over the vacuum spindle, between the end of the spring and the inner face of the fork. Seems to strengthen / stabilize the fork better. Very strong fix!|
|07-16-2013 08:37 PM|
|brachilius||A Dana 30 will do fine if you are not heavy on the throttle and stay at 35" tires or smaller. You are correct, crazy rock crawling with a v8 will explode a Dana 30.|
|07-16-2013 08:27 PM|
You do realize that without the posilock engaged you weren't truly in 4wd right?
Also, I think it is possible to pull the axle out with the collar on it. If not, oh well. Many people have welded those collars over the years and they have held fine for regular use age. Unless you're heavy duty rock crawling, I wouldn't worry too much.
Then again, why are you doing heavy rock crawling on a D30?
But breaking axles or u joints does happen so that I guess would be one thing to think of.
|07-15-2013 08:37 PM|
|brachilius||Welding the collar to the axle makes no sense to me. If you are out wheeling and blow a u-joint or or break a shaft, this will be a pain to fix. Especially if it is the inner shaft. Considering that a posi-lol can be purchased for about $125, this makes the most sense. I did a lock rite with a posi-lok. It was my daily driver for 7 years. It worked great. I never engaged the posi-lol while driving on road in PA snow. But off road, it was a beast with a rear locker. Most times, I could go anywhere with it in 4wd with engaging the posi-lok. Hill climbs, rocks, and mud were a breeze with the posi-lock engaged.|
|07-15-2013 07:44 PM|
|adhammer||Yeah thats all I was gonna do was tack weld it actually have a friend do the weld but i want it to where I need to I can find a way to cut welds if I need to replace a axle or something|
|07-15-2013 07:06 PM|
I just depot welded the collar to the short shaft in 4 places. Let it cool.
It works just fine. I've wheeled it several times, and its been good.
No reason to go overboard or anything super heavy. All you need is for that collar to stay in place to the left.
|07-15-2013 02:33 PM|
|07-10-2013 07:01 PM|
|adhammer||Well got it in but when It sits and I kick it in 4wd I got a grinding noise at 1st guess the spacer I used isn't shoving the forks over far enough guess I'll try to weld the collar in place haha|
|07-09-2013 01:50 PM|
|indirocz28||Just take one of your others to Lowes or home depot. Or a local bolt store.|
|07-09-2013 09:40 AM|
|adhammer||Would anyone one know what size bolts are used I broke the head off one Dana 30 axle?|
|07-01-2013 03:24 PM|
The original switch for the 4WD light is on the axle disconnect that you put the spring in. That's the 2 wires that go to the front axle. If you can find a 2 wire normally open detent(ball type) switch with the same thread pitch as the vacuum switch, you could replace it and run the two wires to that and it should work.
Probably something like this.
Item # 21-385, Precision Ball Switches- Normally Open, Exposed Terminal (Stud Terminals) On Pollak
I don't know what the thread pitch on the vacuum switch is but this is 9/16-18. If it fit, you could put a thin nut on it so you could adjust the depth to just the right spot.
|06-30-2013 06:53 PM|
|STAN1990JEEP||The spring fix worked great !!!!! I noticed that both wheels were turning right away in 2 wheel drive. When I put it in 4 wheel drive it worked great. Thanks for the idea. Now I have to replace the vacuum switch on the transfer case some time to make the 4x4 dash lite work. Any ideas on that without making it work by vacuum ? Thanks again.|
|06-24-2013 10:49 PM|
As said before - you're axle/driveshaft will not be engaged - but your driveshaft will be spinning since both sides of the axle are engaged now. Just like the TJ and all model "Wranglers" after the except the YJ... BUT 4WD still not apply UNTIL you engage the T-case...
For the thread:
I had a long talk with the parts store dude who used to be a Hummer mechanic in the military (not the p#ssy hummers on the streets nowadays) and he and I came to the conclusion that a piece of differential breather hose will work as well. (Plus most parts stores will give you a piece for free from their "scraps") Just cut it down to the length that you need it - it's the correct diameter interior to allow the shift motor shaft to fit through - will work as well. That's what I used. I plan on removing and checking the shift motor in a year or two and making sure that the hose is still holding up... But it's worked for me so far.
|06-24-2013 10:14 PM|
So I have several questions,
When I engage my 4wd, aren't both axles spinning? Both my front tires should be spinning while engaged? By doing this spring (or spacer) coversion and having my front axle always spinning, do I need to engage the 4wd when I go through mud? So many questions for this inexperienced guy haha
|06-17-2013 12:58 AM|
|05-29-2013 06:15 AM|
Where are you located?
Sucks that you have that much rain, but there must be some great scenery.
|05-29-2013 01:07 AM|
Haha! Thought about it - but it's rained almost every day for the past few weeks...
Not that I'm against driving in the rain - but I don't want rain POURING into my truck wherever it sits.
|05-28-2013 10:02 PM|
|indirocz28||Why don't you just drive the j truck without doors?|
|05-28-2013 08:13 PM|
I just want to do the "job" once - which is actually why my J-truck is immobile right now - waiting for window corner window weatherstripping which is on backorder so I don't have to take the door apart more than once. As of now when I drive it the passenger window randomly comes off it's track and falls to the bottom of the door (luckily it hasn't broken yet) - I'm waiting on the order to replace 100% of the weatherstripping on BOTH doors at the same time....
|05-28-2013 08:03 PM|
There isn't much fluid that comes out if you face the front end down (jack up the back end a little, and make sure the passenger front side is higher than the left. Then probably almost no fluid would come out.
Anyway, I would use a dial caliper to measure the thickness of the rod, then push the fork over to where it needs to be, and measure from the passenger side (inside of the housing) to the fork.
|05-28-2013 07:34 PM|
SO I did the Nutter bypass and the "Team Rush" upgrade about a year ago with plans to keep all of the vac lines and electrical stuff "in place" for if I ever needed to switch back for emissions - but an getting sick of all the crap under the hood now that I've worked on the engine a multiple times with vac lines getting in the way - so NOW I'm planning on eliminating everything that's not necessary to drive DD as I'm not in and don't plan on moving to an emissions state any time soon...
I was just wondering - would you, Cyote_94YJ or anyone, happen to know the actual dimensions of the spring used in the original tutorial (or any other that have done it?). I keep debating whether I want to use the spacer or spring as I don't KNOW if anywhere around me would have the 1/2"x.375x5/8" spacer in stock (or even how to tell them that's what I want - NAPA "know how" is bullsh!t...(along with any other parts stores around here)). There's an AMAZING hardware store - but I doubt they have the nylon spacers... They normally deal with actual HARDWARE....
MyYJ is currently my DD - and I'm not able to use mt J-truck (my other vehicle) to drive to ANY store at the moment - so I would need to know what to get beforehand as it'd be annoying to take the CAD off, measure, and then replace it (with RTV) and fill with fluids just to drive 10-15 minutes to take it off and do the whole process over again (and deal with the messy RTV)... If I can't get a measurement I'll go with the nylon spacer as the measurement were provided - but it'd just help with my constant indiciv-ness.
Thanks in advance!
|05-19-2013 01:28 PM|
|Coyote_94YJ||This is true. Dunno why I didn't think of that. It would function the same way a TJ with a front locker would.|
|05-19-2013 03:33 AM|
|indirocz28||That is what I was thinking, but then again, why would it function any differently than a TJ or non CAD XJ front axle. When they have lunch box lockers put into them, they still function normally until put into 4wd and torque is applied through the front driveshaft.|
|05-19-2013 02:39 AM|
|Coyote_94YJ||The lunchbox locker will affect normal driving. It's job is to keep the left and right side tires spinning at the same speed. Your front axle is no longer disconnected so it would act like a solid axle without a differential.|
|05-18-2013 09:20 PM|
|indirocz28||I am curious though, with the DS now spinning all the time, what would happen if one put a lunch box in the front diff. Would it still act disengaged since the T case is in 2wd, or would it now be engaged all the time since the axle is now solid?|
|05-18-2013 05:02 PM|
I was just going to comment and say that yes, the front DS does spin now.
I slid the collar to the left, tack welded it in 4 places around the axle, and cut off the forks on the modulator arm. Put it back together and BAM! 4WD!
|05-15-2013 11:24 AM|
|05-14-2013 04:59 PM|
Ahh okay, well I had the CAD on my 88 cherokee, and it had an ARB in the front, along with the collar just slid over, the arm cut off, and the whole vacuum assembly bolted back on.
Probably what I'll do with this one for now, but I'll weld the collar.
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