|05-05-2013 05:20 PM|
|O_M_Jeep||Of course the c-clips have nothing to do with the axle assembly being strong or weak, they have absolutely everything to do with a broken axle walking out of the tube. I guess I should have been pain-stakingly clear and explained that I meant the axle not staying in the tube if it breaks is the main problem as far as being in a remote location on the trail and then having to make it out with a big stick or jack leg strapped to your tire so as to hold it in the tube is the main problem.|
|05-05-2013 04:31 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Yep the c-clips aren't what make a Dana 35 weak, they have nothing to do with if an axle is strong or weak. The c-clips are positioned inside & behind the splined parts of the carrier so they see little to no stress. When an axle shaft breaks, it breaks outside of the carrier. Its c-clip was not the reason.|
|05-05-2013 04:25 PM|
|05-05-2013 12:47 PM|
|gquad41||Solman was wondering if you are still building ford 8.8 rear ends ?|
|05-05-2013 12:34 PM|
|05-05-2013 12:34 PM|
|05-05-2013 12:17 PM|
|05-05-2013 11:59 AM|
Few running bigger tires and/or lockers on their Dana 35 axles at http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/ thought their D35 axles were that fragile either.
|05-05-2013 04:15 AM|
|05-04-2013 10:46 PM|
|05-04-2013 10:33 PM|
|1jeeplvr||A D35 is not made of glass like many think.|
|05-04-2013 08:03 AM|
I have and run a Ð-35c, I always heard the phrase about 'polishing a turd' and decided I was going to run it just to see if I could make it strong enough to stop being a 'turd'. Doing an 8.8 swap is the most common, and in Denver there is a guy on CL that will sell you, for around $900 an 8.8 that is bolt in ready, but why switch an axle that the main problem is the c-clips (the Ð-35c) for an 8.8 that also has c-clips? I looked at the c-clip eliminator kit for the Ð-35 and it is a very viable option.
I went with alloy shafts (27 spline, easy to find a spare if one breaks, a stock shaft will work), I also put on the Superior truss, True-Trac, and 4.88's to help lower the strain turning my 33's. I'm also not throttle heavy but I do a lot of hard wheeling and so far it's held up very well. There are a lot of great options, and no matter what anyone tries to tell you, keeping and building up the Ð-35c is certainly one of them.
Ford 8.8 supplier in Denver
Fully polished Ð-35c
|05-04-2013 07:20 AM|
|98 tj sport|
|05-04-2013 02:45 AM|
|R8DRIZD||What about an 07' JK 2dr? I have only seen for YJ,TJ's....I have dana 35 with 4.10 gear|
|01-21-2013 10:58 PM|
|DevilDogDoc||I run 33's and when they wear out hope to go to 35's. As far as the axles go I already had Superior Discoveries up front so just the rear shafts were changed. Still run the C-clips in back. So yeah, gears, lockers, rear 30 spline shafts and gear setup.|
|01-21-2013 10:58 PM|
I just got my beast back tonight. I went with the super 35 and yukon locker rear and the super 30 yukon locker in front with 4.56 gears. I had 3.07 stock, the differance was amazing. I have not wheeled it yet but I did research and asked many questions from the guru's on here. The shop that did my work welded the tubes to prevent twist.
I am satisfied that I can take my ride anywhere and not worry about my set up. Everything on a jeep has options to make it better so the super 35 was my choice for price and reliability.
I'm running 33" now with 4.0
Just my .02
|01-21-2013 10:52 PM|
|98 tj sport|
|01-21-2013 10:40 PM|
|DevilDogDoc||Factory 30/35. I had a friend refer me to his gear guy for the install but I pulled the axles and put them back under the Jeep.|
|01-21-2013 10:34 PM|
|98 tj sport||
|01-21-2013 10:28 PM|
|DevilDogDoc||It seems to be an east coast west coast thing. Over there the pos fords rust out and go to the junkyard but here they are far scarcer. Best quote I got from ecgs was 2300 shipped. I got 4:88's F/R along with Ziplockers F/R, 30 spline Ten Factory chromo axles and master install kits for $2200. For me it was a no-brainer especially considering how low the 8.8 hangs when on 33's.|
|01-21-2013 08:34 PM|
|Natas667||I've had my jeep with 456 gears. Open. Dana 30 35 combo on 33s for four years . And literally put this thing through hell trying to give myself a excuse to upgrade the axles. I just dont get it when I hear people are blowing these axles up so easily. Even been debating on upgrading to the 35s I want to see if that will put them over the edge. If that finally does it I will have my excuse to upgrade. But ultimately I say if it ain't broke don't fix the damn thing.|
|01-21-2013 07:39 PM|
|Travs 94 zj||Do u still rebuild 8.8 if yes can I get a quote|
|11-23-2011 02:35 PM|
A Detroit Locker is, for 99% of any guy, a non-issue for any driving condition except for icy or snow-covered streets. I now have a Rubicon with air lockers but as I've said before, I still miss the Detroit Locker I had in the rear of my previous TJ that was stolen last year.
And actually, I think that Jp writer might have been filled with so much fear about the Detroit Locker from its old repuation that he never gave it a decent chance. Early Detroit Lockers could be a handful on the street but they redesigned it entirely 16-17 years ago which made it much better behaved on the street. They called the new version the Detroit Softlocker in an attempt to distance it from the old Detroit Locker. Today, the Detroit Locker and Detroit Softlocker are one and the same locker... which is, by far, the best behaved automatic locker of any of them.
|11-23-2011 02:16 PM|
|pickncrew||subscribed... leaning towards an 8.8|
|11-23-2011 09:10 AM|
The auto locker unload is specifically why I went with an ARB when I upgraded my D35 to Yukon shafts and 4.88's. I have a lockright in the D30 up front, but would LOVE an ARB up front.
For my wheeling style, the upgraded D35 works great. I have a 2.5L and have always been light on the gas pedal. I don't want to tear up my axle and I don't want to rut out the trail just to make it over an obstacle. I'll try it 3 times, and if I don't make it, I either go around or pull cable to get over.
A lot of making the decision to upgrade will depend on your wheeling style and your engine type. With my light gas foot (at least in the Jeep lol) and the 2.5L engine, I felt comfortable with the upgrade option. If my solution was always to gas through a problem and I had the 4.0L, my logic path would probably be different.
|11-23-2011 07:58 AM|
Here's a article from JP magazine on it. Hope this helps you.
You've heard us harp on the subject for years without once changing our tune; running an automatic locker in therear of a short-wheelbase Jeep can make for a miserable on-road driving experience. An automatic locker functions very simply. It's locked when power is applied to the axles and unlocked when no power is applied. That means every time you get on and off the gas, the locker locks and unlocks. The handling drawbacks manifest themselves when this happens in the middle of a turn, changing lanes, or negotiating curvy sections of road. On some Jeeps with supple suspensions, especially link-type suspensions, the locker actuation can cause the Jeep to change lanes or shoot violently to one side or the other. It's something the average enthusiast will become accustomed to rather quickly, but for us the acid test is always, "would I toss the keys to a non-enthusiast, my wife, or a valet?"
We wanted to see if we could take steps to improve these handling drawbacks. Granted, our stock-height, leaf-sprung '89 Wrangler test vehicle is a best case scenario for the auto locker, while the worst-case would be a TJ with a manual transmission, tall short-arm suspension, and larger tires.
Since we can't in good conscience recommend installing a locker of any type in a stock Dana 35 rear axle, we called Superior Axle & Gear for its Super 35 kit. This kit includes an Eaton Detroit Locker, Superior's superb 30-spline, 1.31-inch alloy axleshafts (stock Dana 35 is 27-spline, 1.16-inch), and a full installation kit. This would ensure we don't suffer any breakage during our testing. So after all our efforts are we satisfied? Nope. Although it helped a little, we still wouldn't toss the keys to a novice. It's still better to run a selectable locker or spool if you're concerned with street handling.
|11-23-2011 07:56 AM|
He has a detroit auto locker that fully locks,not a tru trac
And he has difficulty shifting the manual transmission as the locker locks and unlocks
No issues before the super 35 kit
|11-23-2011 07:44 AM|
Ok put a super 35 and learn how to drive? I hope your saying that because you know how dangerous they are on a dd due to being squirrelly having to get off the pedal in almost every corner you go into, because it will kick your jeep all over the road. And as far as knowing people, you don't have to know anybody to find a good deal, just takes time. The "Tons of time" part took me a few days rebuilding the whole damn thing from bearings, seals, carrier, ring gear ect. Tools if you got a welder your good because if you can afford a welder I'd imagine you got a grinder and some cut off wheels.
|11-23-2011 01:23 AM|
Run the S35 and learn how to drive unless of course you have your own fab shop, lots of tools, tons of time, knowledge of the swap and maybe a friend at the junkyard.
But then if you had all that you probably wouldn't be asking on WF
|11-22-2011 11:38 PM|
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