|11-02-2011 01:14 PM|
I had planned on building a circuit with variable 0.1 - 0.9 Volt output to the computer. However, I've recently learned that the ECU also monitors resistance from the heater within the sensor. So, forget that.
And then I found this:
O2 Simulator Mini Cat Cel Fix
which should solve the problem.
It's called an o2 sensor simulator (but isn't it really a CAT simulator?)...
TnDz Tj: If the simulator does not solve my problem, you are probably right and the next time you're on the Big Island-Drinks are on me!
|10-29-2011 01:26 PM|
I get codes 12, 17, 51 & 55. Lean mixture, basically. I'm almost convinced that not having the cat between the 2 o2 sensors is causing the problem. Working on a solution to fake out the computer with a little circuit. I'll post results...
|10-28-2011 05:16 PM|
|TnDz TJ||Any CEL? If you have problems with sensors, CEL would give it up. Backfiring is assign of an exhaust valve not closing for a number of reasons.. Dead lifter, Broken/bent pushrod, pushrod gone thru a rocker.... To name a few. Timing could be and issue as well|
|10-28-2011 03:02 AM|
Ok, little update. Timing chain went on no problem and the jeep is so much quieter. Turns out that the tensioner was just fine and doing its job. There was a piece of plastic-of the same type as the tensioner-lodged between one of the walls of the housing and the timing chain. Loudness was the result. No clue where it came from though...
I still have the backfire problem and suspect its a sensor issue. There is no CAT and I don't know how that effects the O2 sensors...Also MAP and TPS are suspect.
Anyone have any thoughts? It is a very periodic backfire when coasting down hill in say 2nd gear at moderate rpms-that is without giving it gas. Also when accelerating and changing gear.
I appreciate any input.
|10-26-2011 02:14 PM|
Yes, the popping is really more of a backfire. I bought this thing about a month ago, so I'm not sure how long the problem has been allowed to persist (listless hippies were previous owners) but the muffler is completely blown out from all the backfiring.
While driving, I'm convinced it is running on all 4 cylinders. I guess I was hoping that the chain had jumped a link. And in support of that theory, it did seem as though the rotor was slightly ahead of the #1 spark plug at TDC.
|10-26-2011 08:22 AM|
|geiman||I had the tensioner go bad on my 98 2.5l, and so have several others on here and JeepForum. Mine was in pieces and rattling around inside the timing chain cover. I rented a puller from Autozone which worked fine; mine came off relatively easily. When you get the cover off, check to see if your tensioner is in pieces like mine was. If it is, you'll want to make sure you find all of the pieces. I also replaced the chain while I was in that far; figured I might as well replace it while I had everything off.|
|10-26-2011 06:23 AM|
popping through the exhaust? I have never had a chain go that bad... what you describe sounds more like a stuck lifter.... like the exhaust valve is stuck up and you here it 'POP' out the tailpipe. This would also zero out your compression for that cylinder... and... being 4 cylinder, would hesitate and buck as you described.
Is this constant? rhythmic? Does the POP out the tailpipe 'sync' with what you hear under the hood?
Just trying to help....
|10-26-2011 02:53 AM|
Everyone: I'm sure that the tensioner is a problem-you can hear it clacking around like a mad man in there, used a redneck stethoscope to ensure that's where the noise is coming from.
I've been experiencing slight hesitation/bucking in 1st and 2nd gear-especially going slowly, 5-20mph. Also consistent pops and bubbles out the back when shifting-especially between 1st and 2nd gear. I had chalked all of this up to timing-no vacuum leaks, manifold(s) tight.
No CAT so could this be upstream O2 sensor? Fuel filter?
Got the correct puller and attempting timing chain replacement again Wednesday.
|10-25-2011 05:57 PM|
|10-25-2011 04:01 PM|
Chains should last forever and the actual problem is with the tensioner/guide. I've never done a timing chain before, so if anyone has any advice once I get the cover off, it would be appreciated. I'm using a Haynes manual which covers '87 thru 2003...not the best manual by the way.
|10-23-2011 07:57 AM|
|fabrikate_it||there is a GM/chrysler specific HB puller you will ne to rent that one it's the only one i have ever found that works.|
|10-23-2011 05:38 AM|
|Atthehop||Chains should last forever. 2.4s have timing belts and needs servicing.|
|10-22-2011 08:55 PM|
|4Jeepn||Engine is 2.5 L per profile... I will not be much more help than that.. never had to replace a chain on any of my Jeeps.|
|10-22-2011 08:43 PM|
|Atthehop||What engine. You need the FSM to see the correct pulled required.|
|10-22-2011 06:21 PM|
Ok, maybe that question was too difficult.
Let me ask this: When the Harmonic balancer comes off, is the diameter of the center hole the same diameter as the crankshaft itself or is it larger?
|10-22-2011 05:19 PM|
Having trouble removing Vibration Damper/Harmonic Balancer
Hi all, I'm replacing my timing chain, sprockets and tensioner. I'm having problems removing the Harmonic balancer (HB). I have a puller, KD 2286 Harmonic balancer remover-however I'm not sure it is the correct one. The end of the drive screw which pushes against the crankshaft appears to be too big and covers not only the crankshaft but the metal cylinder around it.
Is this the incorrect puller or does the HB pulley sit on the metal cylinder around the cranshaft?