|03-09-2013 06:52 AM|
|Gohot||Amazing, absolutely amazing.. I have to ask.......... on post 3 and 4 you show the frame with the leaf springs setting on the ground.... fair enough. For the life of me, I can not see what is holding the frame up? the front seems suspended either by the track bar or .......???? by what....? You mess'in with our minds? ...lol|
|03-08-2013 11:54 PM|
|schwag27||whats your total budget? the build looks very cool and i like your mods|
|08-13-2012 09:57 PM|
|kdub||Keep up the good work.the 4.3 was my original engine for my swap but I changed my mind at the last minute.still might do a SBC swap one day but I got to get more comfortable with the wiring portion of the swap.I got a great deal on a 4.0 and jumped on it.I'm glad I did it was easy swap for the most part.but I'm very happy with it.I'm ready to see yours on the road|
|08-13-2012 03:45 PM|
Brakes, brakes and more brakes...
The past few days, I have been working on the front brake lines, master cylinder and proportion valve. I am using a 1975 Ford Grand Marquis master cylinder for one of my "brake upgrades". This vehicle had four wheel disc brakes and was a very heavy automobile. The master cylinder fits perfectly on the new vacuum booster, which is the standard YJ booster. The vacuum booster comes sand blasted but not painted, so I covered it in a clear coat... I like that color against the green firewall. The master cylinder upgrade came from another post on the internet by another jeeper who put rear disc brakes on his YJ... all credit goes to him for his research and knowledge. It was a great idea and a lot easier on the wallet, i only wish I knew his name so I could give him a proper "thank you"...
Since I have added rear disc brakes to the YJ (using ZJ rear disc brake components), I needed to do something with the OEM proportion valve. I have gone with a very well respected adjustable proportion valve built by WILWOOD. I had to build a bracket for it. As you know, the OEM proportion valve just hangs there under the master cylinder. I made a steel bracket to use the studs on the vacuum booster to hold it. The bracket goes over the master cylinder and snugs up using those two bolts. It holds the proportion valve off to the side. I haven't run the stainless lines yet to it yet, but I will. I just wanted to post some photos without the lines because lines have a way of cluttering everything up.
All of my brake lines are stainless steel, except for the flexible ones.
|08-13-2012 03:28 PM|
Sorry I haven't answered you. I checked out your post and that unit looked great, but I am going to see how this one does first. I have a lot of time, welding and galvanization in this one so I am personally attached to it. But thanks for the great suggestion!
|08-07-2012 03:56 PM|
Have you thought about replacing it with a custom or pre-made unit?
YJ 2" Drop Skid Plate
^ Comes to mind.
|08-07-2012 12:19 PM|
Added TJ fuel filler door...
I have added a TJ fuel filler door to my YJ. It was a simple install... the hardest part is in the measuring. Why? The way the sheet metal falls on the inside of the panel affects where you put the filler door. If you are off just a little bit, you will have problems but they are really just "cosmetic" problems, not structural ones.
I went with the TJ door because on at least one occasion, I had the nozzle come out at me and spray me with gasoline. Of course, I was on a date with my wife AND I should have been holding the nozzle BUT when I am in a jacket and tie, I don't like the back splash that happens when you fill up. Anyway, I got tired of the license plate holder AND the problems with filling up the YJ tank.
I will put some black paint on those four stainless screws at another time. Oh, the kit came with sheet metal screws but I used #8-32 instead with weld nuts. I am not a big fan of sheet metal screws on these applications. There really wasn't enough room to get a welding tip in there, and I was concerned with "burn through" so I used JB Weld on the "weld nuts" after I sanded back side of the sheet metal. Also, I deburred the hole, primed and painted it. One day, when the tail gate is finished, I will paint the entire body, but that will do for now.
Here are some photos.
|08-05-2012 11:16 AM|
Finished spare tire carrier...
The spare tire carrier is from GenRight and it has been powder coated. I had a third brake light installed by welding a small plate across the tubes at the top. The brake light matches the other LED rear brake lights. How do you like the custom tail gate? That plywood keeps out the neighborhood cats... One day, I will get to that tailgate.
Oh one thing about the spare tire carrier. They now make them out of aluminum. I wanted mine made of steel. I was concerned about the holes in the tubing to run electrical wire through from the license plate holder (mounts under the third brake light). I had those holes welded up and ground smooth. I get a lot of rain where I live, plus any creek or stream crossings I may or may not do... and I didn't need my nice new tire carrier to fill up and start rusting SO... I am sure this wouldn't be a problem with the aluminum carrier. Also I have put a piece of rubber hose at the top of my carrier so the carrier can rest on that, instead of the powder coat. The manufacturer suggests putting one of the used rubber bumpers from the OEM tailgate on the top for this. I am fine with the rubber hose for now, but this could change...
The flush mounted LED brake lights were actually easy to install BUT YOU HAVE TO TAKE GOOD MEASUEMENTS. Mainly you want to find out where the inside sheet metal hits the outside sheet metal. Then you mark that and place a 4.5" template of where the light should go. Mark center point with a marker, center punch the center point, and drill a small hole at center point. Then work your way up to the drill bit size on your 4.5" hole drill. (I do it this way because TWICE I had only center punched the mark. I tried to cut the hole and once the drill bit caught the sheet metal, it bent my drill bit on the hole saw at almost a 45 degree angle. Now I make a center hole that matches that drill bit and slide the hole drill into that first. It take a little more time, but it does a much better job.) Once the hole is drilled out, it should be deburred, primed and painted. The grommet has to be put into the hole first and then the brake light pushes in from the outside. It pushes in almost flush, use only the slightest angle. Also I would advise positioning the rear plug where the "shield" is actually protecting the plug from water, splashed and what not. In the photo, you can see where the driver's side brake light is not done yet. That is because it was easy access to get to the TJ fuel filler door I installed. I wanted to get away from those sheet metal screws that came with the kit and installed machine screws with weld nuts on the back. I couldn't really get a welding rod in there, so I used JB weld. Once it is dry then I will put the brake light in.
|08-05-2012 11:11 AM|
"Sound bar" install...
I have installed my "sound bar" system on the roll bar. When I am on the highway, I could never hear my dash speakers or the "pod" speakers I had in the jeep. The stereo was just not able to put out enough sound with all of the noise. I decided with the rebuild to "fix" all of the things that were not "up to par". So, here it is... the speakers are Marine waterproof speakers mounted over head. The "sound bar" is made from 3/16th plate, welded in and painted. (If you look carefully, I missed my mark on one of the holes... still can't figure out how that happened...)
|05-28-2012 02:35 PM|
I hope you guys had a great Memorial Day! I also hope we all took the time to remember those fallen Americans who laid down their lives so others would be free. May God have mercy on their souls and bring them to everlasting life.
|05-27-2012 10:04 AM|
Thank you for the kind words. When I began thinking about what I wanted to do with my jeep, I started searching the jeep forums and found a few people who did the conversion BUT NO ONE THAT WENT INTO A LOT OF DETAIL. I decided I would do it differently because people should see what they are getting into if they go "frame up". It takes a little more planning, but it works. I found the conversion to be ideal for my needs at this time. However, if I lived in the country and not this neighborhood, I would have done it differently. I would have bought a used S10 and stripped it down for its drivetrain. Then I would have welded in mounts to make it work. It would have been faster, simpler and cheaper. I live in a neighborhood where if you work on your vehicle for too long, they call the bureaucrats from "downtown" to come threaten to tow your vehicle!
|05-26-2012 05:41 PM|
|kruger||I am really enjoying this thread. I am also planning on putting in a 4.3 in my 89. Lots of insight here. And am looking forward to seeing this jeep finished.|
|05-26-2012 04:11 PM|
The Twenty-Third Installment...
When the jeep was wrecked, the gas tank was punctured so it had to be replaced. I had originally galvanized the fuel tank skid plate because it was just collecting water and rusting. The tank is mounted on a rubber sheet and water was collecting under it and creating rust.
I decided to go with a new steel tank with a 24 gallon capacity. I painted the tank with Rustoleum Industrial Primer and then Rustoleum Industrial Gloss Black. Gloss paint lasts longer and is more durable than "flat" paints, so I went with that. I also had the bottom of the tank "Rhino lined" so as to give it better protection from rocks and stuff kicked up by the tires on the road. I guess I could have used a "rubber coating" spray-on deal but I wanted Rhino liner and the man did an excellent job.
I plan on putting a TJ gas filler on my YJ because I am weary of the foolishness filling up the tank with over flow and nozzles flying out of the filler... ESPECIALLY WHEN I AM OUT ON A "DATE" WITH MY WIFE. When it is finished, I will post photos.
|05-26-2012 03:59 PM|
The Twenty-Second Installment...
When my jeep was wrecked, it hit a tree backwards at about 55 mph. The tree caved in the tailgate. I actually had tree bark between the bead of the spare tire and the rim.
Losing the tailgate was a moot point for me because the tail gate was giving me so many headaches. I believe I had replaced the tail gate hinges three times. The hinges never worked for my jeep at all. They were constantly being chewed up by the weight of the spare tire. I wanted something better and spent years looking at various designs on this forum and others. I looked at premanufactured designs and homemade designs. I saw some pretty good ones out there. I would keep the idea in my mind until I finally had the money saved to buy what I wanted.
Well today was the day... I had enough money to get what I wanted. I looked at GenRight Off Road "Boulder series spare tire carrier" and I was impressed. It takes all of the weight off of the tail gate and puts it squarely on the rear bumper/crossmember where it belongs. It is a tube unit that contacts the body in two points and the bumper at two points. It hinges downward to remove the spare PLUS it is tough enough to stand on and use as a stepping stool if needed. I bought the optional bumper and reinforcing plate. The bumper already has the tabs welded to it that hold the bottom bushings. This unit was very well done and I was extremely pleased with their customer service, their shipping time and most of all, their product. It is a fantastic piece of engineering. When it was all together, I jerked on the top to see how tight it was and it moved the entire jeep, frame and body, all in one solid unit. It is tough!! I will have it powder coated when I am finished the fitting.
If you are going with their rear bumper... you will have to remove all of the "body to frame" bolts. Then you need to jack up the rear corners of the body to remove the bushings. The frame goes in there and the bushings are then returned to their original place. It is simple enough but be careful doing it. The frame is laser cut and it wraps perfectly around the rear crossmember. The body bushing then sits on the rear bumper and the bolt goes in as usual. There is some fitting that needs to be down for the YJs and GenRight suggests not to coat the carrier UNTIL all fitting is finalized. Good advice.
In the following photos, you will see a piece of wood covering the tail gate space. I have decided to weld in a plate and finish it without any tailgate whatsoever. It will be sealed off and then painted. It will not be "rattling" anymore. Also, the tire I have showing is not the tires I will be staying with... but it keeps it off the floor of my garage.
|05-26-2012 03:54 PM|
the Twenty-First Installment...
I needed to remove the protective roll bar padding to weld the "tie in kit" to the OEM roll bar. I looked over the padding and I was impressed and disappointed at the same time. I was impressed with the material of the "sleeve". It seems to be a heavy duty, water repellent cloth that has upheld perfectly during the past twenty years of road use. The zippers were disappointing and all broke during the removal. They seem to be corroded on the inside of the teeth, but since most jeepers never have a need to remove the material, I guess it is a moot point. Anyway, I have decided to go with velcro attached sleeves that can be easily removed. My daughter has already made three of them and I will post photos of the finished product. I was also disappointed in the quality of the roll bar padding itself. I wouldn't use that padding to wrap anything that needed protection ESPECIALLY IF IT IS SUPPOSED TO PROTECT HUMANS. It is the flimsiest foam sheet material you have ever seen!
After a little research, I found some good, quality padding that is designed for roll bars. It is thicker and of a much higher quality. Also you can outfit the entire roll bar system for around $ 60 PLUS your covering materials that you will use as a protective "sleeve" if you want the factory OEM look. Anyway, be careful with the foam you buy out there because there is foam for tubing (NASCAR style) that I was warned by the manufacturer not to use. It is hard as a rock and designed ONLY for helmet use. If you hit this stuff with your head, it is going to knock you out. The padding I used was softer than that, almost like pipe insulation but much better than OEM padding under the sleeve. I am sorry that I do not know the name of the manufacturer off hand, but if there is any inquiry, I will look it up for you.
The padding comes in three foot lengths and you attach it to the roll bar with wide plastic zip ties. Then the new velcro sleeves (that your daughter or your wife made for you) attached over that. All in all, it is looking nice. The photos will come later.
|05-26-2012 03:46 PM|
The Twentieth Installment...
Here are the photos of the rear spreader bars that I had welded to the OEM unit in the back. They will prevent the rear side bars from collapsing inwardly. I have painted them with Rustoleum Industrial Primer and I will finish them in the same paint I use for the body, when I am at that point. The second photo shows my #1 daughter painting the areas that I missed. She is a big help.
|05-26-2012 03:41 PM|
The Nineteenth Installment...
I have got back to working on the jeep with the beautiful weather we have been having. I have been looking for a roll bar "tie in" kit for my windshield for a few years now. However, the price was extraordinary. Blue Torch Fab came through with a low cost, high quality DIY kit which ties in the roll bar and strengthens the entire front end of the roll bar... The price? $250. You have to provide the welding yourself. The kit is awesome! and it fits perfectly. It is well thought out and I am very impressed with the finished product.
I actually know someone who rolled his TJ and as I knew would happen, the windshield caved in on the occupants. The jeep windshield does not have the strength to support a roll over except in the most perfect circumstances. The "tie in kit" puts a DOM tube behind the windshield with horizontal spreader bars. Your windshield screws into the roll bar bracket in the factory OEM position and it doesn't interfere with the soft top at all. As a matter of fact, you can't really see it when the soft top is up. It is well designed and well placed. The only thing missing was two horizontal spreader bars for the rear of the OEM roll bar... of course, this is a "front tie in kit" so that wouldn't be included. I called them up and they were more than happy to cut and notch some DOM tubing for my measurements, which was then welded in.
Now, for $250 plus welding, my roll bar is A LOT stronger than the OEM unit. It addresses all the weak spots with it and makes it an excellent addition to the safety of your jeep for a very reasonable price. Is it as strong as a full tubed roll bar? No. But it isn't $3,000 either. PLUS it is very "user friendly". People can come and go as they please and barely notice it.
The first photo is the OEM unit on the tub sitting on blocks in my driveway. The next few photos are of different angles and I have to apologize for the poor quality of these photos. The next time I have the soft top down, I will take better ones that show more detail.
|02-05-2012 03:24 PM|
Pukeolicious (what a creative name...),
I will pass this along to you... when my father was dying, on his deathbed, he asked me, "Hey, do you know why I got you to help me with my car projects?" I assumed it was so I knew about cars... but I said, "No dad." He said, "I saw how this country was going with everyone encouraging premarital sex and drugs. I didn't want to see you destroyed with that stuff, so I figured when you had free time, I would occupy it with some quality 'father and son' time." I smiled because it worked. I didn't get into a lot of the things my friends got into. I learned to work on cars and understand them. We also spent a lot of time fishing and that was time I have always treasured. PLUS my father and I really had an excellent relationship. He was a simple man, a machinist but he always told me the truth... and today, that matters more to me than anything. I might disagree with him, but I knew he wasn't lying to me.
My father has been dead for almost twenty years BUT I STILL TREASURE THOSE MOMENTS HE AND I SPENT PUTTING A 327 IN A CHEVY VEGA STATION WAGON... boy was that a fast car! I still think about that time... a lot more than I ever thought I would, especially since I have six children now (four of them teenagers.)
I wish you the best with your children and your future projects. I would offer this one bit of advice. If you can, buy the oldest jeep you are comfortable with BEFORE COMPUTER AND FUEL INJECTION. In that way, it is a simple rebuild and you don't have to worry about emissions and such. Good luck and build awesome memories... they will be remember for the rest of their lives...
|02-05-2012 12:18 PM|
Thanks for the fantastic thread. I am planning on performing a couple of engine swaps along with my son and daughter during their high school careers and your thread is giving me much to think about.
I think the first step is a welding class for myself.
|01-22-2012 12:25 AM|
|BDK||Our Impala SS gets around 21mpg when my wife drives, when I drive it I only get around 18. All depends on how skinny you are on the pedal!|
|01-21-2012 08:37 PM|
|Nubby55||Friend of mine has a CJ5 1975 with a 350 3 speed, it drinks gas is a power house and a lot of fun to wheel but not to dd.|
|01-21-2012 06:50 PM|
|1974cjguy||I use my cj on the open road but it will see trail use often as well. The trail use will be basic gravel roads and light wheeling. Im an experienced wheeler and know my limits and the limits of my jeep.The most it will see is a 3 star trail at the Superlift park in Hot Springs AR. It has the stock axels and 31 inch tires with 2.5 inches of lift. Ive heard that the 5.3 gets great milage but lots of torque. Im not sure of the gear ratio im thinking its 4.11. I run almost 28500 at 60 mph as far as i can tell the speedo dose not work because of a stripped t-case gear. I have one ordered.|
|01-21-2012 03:16 PM|
I still have to put in my electrical system before I am on the road. So I can't give you any mileage numbers at all. I can tell you from experience that there really isn't much of a difference between gas mileage in a stock V6 or V8. Sometimes, the stock V8 gets better gas mileage because it is always running off of the carburetor "primaries". V8s naturally have more power and you can almost "idle" (well just a little more that idle) on the highway. Because of that, your carburetor (if it has vacuum secondaries) is always operating on the "primaries"... for the smallest gas consumption. Now if you max out your V8, it is a different story... but for your needs in a jeep, you can just keep it stock and have plenty of power and torque.
My father and I put a 327 V8 in a Chevy Vega Wagon when I was in highschool. That care screamed, but it still got 18-20 mpg. It had a Quadrajet carburetor and the only time it opened the secondaries was when I stomped it to race Corvettes. It was a light vehicle, like the jeep is. If I remember correctly, at 55mph I was doing 1500 rpms so it was twice idle speed, and still operating on my primaries.
I don't know what your intended uses are of your jeep. If I knew that, I could help you more.
|01-21-2012 10:38 AM|
|1974cjguy||I was wondering what kind of gas milage you are getting. Im still up in the air on a 4.3 or a 5.3. I drive my cj5 alot and looking for fuel economy.|
|01-02-2012 11:01 AM|
It is way too cold to work on my girl today. I hope all you guys stay warm today.
|01-02-2012 08:06 AM|
Swapping an inline six or a V8 will incur the same changes. Your only difference is in your personal preference.
Starting off with a jeep four banger and replacing it with any engine that is bigger requires (and this is just the start): a new transmission, a new input shaft on your transfer case, modified drive shafts to fit the change in drivetrain, new motor mounts, modification in the transmission crossmember, electrical system modification and fuel system modification. It sounds like a lot, but it isn't.
With the "inline six" engines, because the engine is so long, it requires more precise fitting "front to back" then a V6 or a V8 does. Now obviously Jeep has done this and it works... but you will have a lot more working room around a simple V6 or V8 swap then an inline six. Look at the photos of the engine bay in these posts and you will see how much room you have.
What I would advise is... think about how you use your Jeep AND how you realistically plan to use your jeep. What do you have to modify to make your jeep meet those goals? How much is it going to cost? Think about your mechanical ability and the help you have available... such as a father, brother, someone knowledgeable who has "turned a wrench" before... Think about your financial ability. Do you have an available garage to store everything? Do you live in a relatively safe neighborhood?
Once all of this is thought out, then decide on what you want to do AND what you CAN do. As I wrote in my thread, I got the YJ for $2,000 from my brother and I already owned a rebuilt Chevy 4.3 V6. I only go "off roading" on the rarest occasions today... and since I spent 8 years driving a WWII Willy's in the field and living out of it, I am not too keen on climbing over rocks or falling trees... I just drive around them. So I used what I had and started the conversion. Remember my primary use of my jeep is cruising the highway, smoking a cigar with the side panels removed... I wanted more "passing power" for how I use my jeep 90% of the time. If I still lived in Louisiana, I WOULD HAVE NEVER MADE THIS SWAP BECAUSE SOUTHERN LOUISIANA IS FLAT. No hills at all. The four banger was perfect. Tennessee is not flat, at least not where I live, and it is almost impossible to pass anyone on the highway.
There is not much you can do to a four banger for increased horsepower. I done it and it is a lie. All "performance additions", I gained 20 USEABLE horse power combined! It isn't much and not worth it. If you are going to leave the suspension stock, I suggest rebuilding your four banger, your transmission and your transfer case and you should be "good to go" for the next 200,000 miles. If you have to jack up the jeep and put huge tires on it, regear. (My WWII jeep had 4.88 gears in it and got me up and down hills and all kind of trails... actually there weren't too many trails we used... we trailblazed which is a danger in itself, but that is another story.)
Remember, when you are in the field, you are not driving fast... you are thinking more than driving... what is the limitations of my jeep? What are my limitations? Can I do this? Do I want to do this? Is this dangerous? When I screw up and it goes sour, what will I do? etc. My WWII Willy's only had 53 horsepower and a three speed but it went everywhere, dependably.
I hate to throw all this out to you, but I guess I have a little experience using jeeps and working on them. They are "great platforms" to modify or keep stock, depending on your use. I hope this helps in your decision making. And feel free to keep posting... I am happy to hear from you and will help you in any way. You are not a bother!
Take care and have a great new year,
|01-01-2012 08:40 PM|
|m24kelly||Noob here, is it more difficult to swap out the straight 4 for a more powerful v shaped or inline engine? Sorry if this is a stupid question|
|01-01-2012 08:15 PM|
|01-01-2012 08:02 PM|
Thanks for the kind words. Have a great year!
The V8 swap is just as easy and the wiring isn't really a problem. I was tired of the computer control crud so I went with new wiring and a new, simple jeep. Many of the jeepers on this forum and on Jeepforum.com splice in the engine wiring harness with their jeep's harness. I am sure they can help you.
Since I wasn't going with fuel injection, I could keep it really simple. I went with the Painless system because I wanted to upgrade the 19 year old OEM electrical system that was already "patched" and I was going with Autometer gauges which work so much better than the OEM YJ gauges.
Electrical issues used to scare the crud out of me and I wouldn't do projects because of them. Somebody then taught me how to read a "schematic diagram" and reminded me that "Electricity flows like water. It always goes to ground." It is simple advice but it works. My advice... don't be intimidated by it. Get a good manual, a good 12 volt test light with a probe, a multimeter and a lot of patience AND GET TO IT. Once you start accomplishing it, you build your confidence and then you are good to go. You can do it.
Take care and have a great new year.
|01-01-2012 05:24 PM|
|OklaTJ||I have a 350 In a 85 swb that i dont use and I have thought I might do a swap with that. The only problem I can think of is the wiring and gauge cluster. That is what holds me back|
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