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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-11-2012 10:07 PM
BLK00TJ Yes and yes on the "ect" part.
09-11-2012 05:42 PM
jeepman89 quick question for those who can help! lol i have a 2000 jeep wrangler sport and i just started getting stuff for it. I bought 33" tires and want a four inch suspension lift for it, but would i have to make any mods to anything else?transfer case and ect?
11-08-2011 05:38 PM
05wrangler right on, thanx for the info on the body lift! i dont wanna do a bl but the PO put on a 3 inch bl lift . and i also want to do a TT later down the road. i would love to have all the stocl hardware n just do the 3.5 rockkrawler for now tho
11-08-2011 11:34 AM
Jerry Bransford That would be fine. A tad too much height but not enough to worry about. By the way, you could save some $$$ by going with a Performance Accessories 1" body lift.
11-07-2011 08:32 PM
05wrangler so what do you guys think bout this set up, 3.5 rock krawler and a 1.25 bl (4.75" all together) on 33s. this is what im thinking about running on my 05 TJ. to high? or would it be ok?
10-23-2011 07:16 PM
InvertChaos
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

actually, if your tummy tuck cuts 3 inches, it is like running 39s with 33s. 3 inchesx2 because you gain one inch of clearance per inch of tire,=6. 6+33=39. So, its even better than you think
Ah even better

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

He means the clearance at the belly you gain from a TT is equal to the amount of clearance you would gain going from 33 to 37,39,42 inch tires.
10-23-2011 06:38 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mortalis5509 View Post
A TT has nothing to do with tire size that you run.

Anyways 37's are too much for a TJ front end, be it Rubi or not.

He means the clearance at the belly you gain from a TT is equal to the amount of clearance you would gain going from 33 to 37,39,42 inch tires.
10-23-2011 06:37 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by InvertChaos View Post
I have the same setup as you but with the 231. IMO its a very good, cheap way to run 33s well. Its a very popular setup in my club. With the tummy tuck you have the clearance of running 37s too.

actually, if your tummy tuck cuts 3 inches, it is like running 39s with 33s. 3 inchesx2 because you gain one inch of clearance per inch of tire,=6. 6+33=39. So, its even better than you think
10-23-2011 05:19 PM
InvertChaos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mortalis5509

A TT has nothing to do with tire size that you run.

Anyways 37's are too much for a TJ front end, be it Rubi or not.
I know, I meant it gives you the same break over angle as if you had 37s and a stock transfer case skid. It gives you 3-4" more clearance with out affecting the COG.
10-23-2011 04:55 PM
Mortalis5509
Quote:
Originally Posted by InvertChaos View Post
I have the same setup as you but with the 231. IMO its a very good, cheap way to run 33s well. Its a very popular setup in my club. With the tummy tuck you have the clearance of running 37s too.
A TT has nothing to do with tire size that you run.

Anyways 37's are too much for a TJ front end, be it Rubi or not.
10-23-2011 04:35 PM
Briangr
Quote:
Originally Posted by O_M_Jeep View Post

With 4" a SYE is a good idea, you can try it without the drop bracket and see how it acts, mine never had vibrations without it, yours may though, it seems to be a very individual thing on that score. Also I would recommend the RC coil correction plates, it helps to keep the angle of the springs correct without moving the perches, and when adjusting pinion angle, they are even more of a good idea.

the best possible thing I can tell you about the lift is its as close to maintenance free as you can get for what your going to spend, something to concider is not buying one of the kits, what you need is the springs, the correction plates, and the control arms (for pinion angle), you have a lift already so you know how simple it is to work with sway bar connections and all that, simple stuff, with the 4" you might think about longer brake lines depending on your wheeling style, I use their stainless steel lines so Im not even close to pulling on the line.
Nice lookin jeep man, and nice pics. Looks like some pretty intense trails with some pretty serious approach and departure angles.

Im glad to hear your happy with your RC kit, because if it holds up through what you put it through, i shouldnt have any problems either.

Im not gunna even bother trying the t case drop bracket, cause i wanna set it up with an sye and cv driveshaft for a tummy tuck anyway.

I figure ill need the whole kit, because whether or not my shocks are long enough, theyre lookin pretty rusty, so im sure theyre old. Ill need everything else in the kit, except for the sway bar disco's. But my sway bar disco's were homemade by the PO, so i wouldnt mind replacing them. Other than that, what i have on the jeep doesnt save me the expense of buying new parts

Thanks for the info buddy, really helped me out and gave me some piece of mind
10-23-2011 04:08 PM
InvertChaos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mortalis5509
I have 3.75" of lift on my Jeep. 1.25" of that is a BL which you can't even tale. The only way that you can is by looking at the rear and it could pass by as factory. I have a BL for my tummy tuck but I also have a Rubi with the bulky 241 t-case.
I have the same setup as you but with the 231. IMO its a very good, cheap way to run 33s well. Its a very popular setup in my club. With the tummy tuck you have the clearance of running 37s too.
10-23-2011 04:04 PM
Mortalis5509 I have 3.75" of lift on my Jeep. 1.25" of that is a BL which you can't even tale. The only way that you can is by looking at the rear and it could pass by as factory. I have a BL for my tummy tuck but I also have a Rubi with the bulky 241 t-case.
10-23-2011 03:12 PM
O_M_Jeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
I PM'd my buddy who runs the 4" kit you're interested in, he can give you first hand experience and advice about it.
Just got the PM, thanks Necro

I took a few minutes to read through most of the thread, and yes, 6" is way too much, I have a friend who wants me to take his 6" lift off his hands in trade for mine lol, no. The 4" kit you put up the link to is a good kit, first let me say I run the 3.25" progressive, 1.25" bl, 1"mml, lower control arms, and trac bars, all Rough Country, so I know the parts and the quality.

The X-Flex control arms are excellent, I wheel hard, rock, desert, anything but mud, I dont do mud. I havent had any problems at all with my control arms, I have had them in direct contact with rock more than once and even the powder coating is amazingly tougher than the old designs, these new designs were released this year. I am switching to the same coils that are in the 4" kit because they arent progressive, they are far better springs over the long term than the 2.5 progressives.

With 4" a SYE is a good idea, you can try it without the drop bracket and see how it acts, mine never had vibrations without it, yours may though, it seems to be a very individual thing on that score. Also I would recommend the RC coil correction plates, it helps to keep the angle of the springs correct without moving the perches, and when adjusting pinion angle, they are even more of a good idea.

The one thing I love about Rough Country is anytime you have any issue at all, even years later, you call them, and they will help you promptly in any way they can (even when they are on vacation), they wont leave you on the trail while not answering the phone.

the best possible thing I can tell you about the lift is its as close to maintenance free as you can get for what your going to spend, something to concider is not buying one of the kits, what you need is the springs, the correction plates, and the control arms (for pinion angle), you have a lift already so you know how simple it is to work with sway bar connections and all that, simple stuff, with the 4" you might think about longer brake lines depending on your wheeling style, I use their stainless steel lines so Im not even close to pulling on the line.

I do a lot of Moab and a lot of technical rock as well as plain old out in the forest wheeling, this is a few pics of what Rough Country allowed me to do, and this is 3/4" lower than the lift your looking for, some of the pics are 31"s, most are 33"s

Rough Country lift in action pictures by TimeBanditKTS - Photobucket

I love my RC lift, and I will continue to use their products because they have proven quality for me, and I know anything I need they are going to be right there and at 1/2 the price of other popular kits. I think some people spend as much as they can because no one shakes a timex in someone elses face at a party, but I prefer the kits that can take a lickin and keep on tickin lol.

Like you I'll keep my Jeep for a very very long time and I like doing as much as I can as affordably as possible without losing quality. Any questions you have anything you want to know anything your wondering about pm me and I probably already have pics of it lol. Good luck and above all, have fun.

10-23-2011 02:58 PM
perkalator Ok! I have the 4" rough county x series lift. When I researched out the control arms and components. All of the wall thicknesses are equal to many of the higher reputation lifts. Mine has the poly bushings on the bottom connections to the axles and the rod ends on that go to the frame brackets. My biggest complaint is the way the grease journals are designed. First the grease fittings supplied are impossible to grease when installed, and When you grease the joint's the grease is does not fully cover the internals it tends to go to one spot and shoot out. I have pulled the grease fitings and installed 45 degree fittings. I am also going to try and reset the load adjustment on the joint to see if this helps. Untill then I will have to deal with the squeeks. I have not had any issues with the lift other than this as of yet with about 1 year of use. However I am still in the building stage and do not have the bumpstop installed or flat fenders built yet so I have not tried to break it yet. I have done some mild trails that have allowed the tires to rub. I will say for the price I don't think you can beat it. I will also state that no matter how much you spend if you go hardcore wheeling you will eventually break it. If things didn't break there would not be any parts departments.
10-23-2011 02:54 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
necro, I know what you mean. I am kinda doin it the way that everyone says not to, I am gona build about half of it twice. But there is no way I am gona finish for years, so I might as well have it built good enough for the trails and then go all out when the moneys there.
I hear you! If I ever do a build thread of my Jeep I'm going to title it either Bass Ackwards, Wrong Way, or Bad Example... Lol!! I think I've done just about everything wrong at least once while building it...
10-23-2011 02:41 PM
Briangr
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
I payed over $750.00 just for my front Currie control arms and axle housing bushings, but I'm building my Jeep piece by piece since I don't have the money to do everything all at once. I PM'd my buddy who runs the 4" kit you're interested in, he can give you first hand experience and advice about it.
Thanks man, thatd be great

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
yep brian, sounds like a good plan to me.

necro, I know what you mean. I am kinda doin it the way that everyone says not to, I am gona build about half of it twice. But there is no way I am gona finish for years, so I might as well have it built good enough for the trails and then go all out when the moneys there.
Thanks for the help
10-23-2011 02:17 PM
GoldenSahara00 yep brian, sounds like a good plan to me.

necro, I know what you mean. I am kinda doin it the way that everyone says not to, I am gona build about half of it twice. But there is no way I am gona finish for years, so I might as well have it built good enough for the trails and then go all out when the moneys there.
10-23-2011 02:14 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Briangr View Post
Yupp. Its all good dude. My plan for now is probably to get the 4" kit necromancer linked a few posts up. The currie website has their eight control arm kit priced at nearly $1000. Im sure its quality, but anything that allows me to set my pinion angle will suffice for my use.
Then a sye and cv driveshaft to take care of the vibes, as well as allow me to put on the aev Tummy Tuck that doesnt require a body lift.
That kit contains everything i would think i would need, based on what i know and what has been mentioned in this thread so far, except for bumpstops. So ill needa pick some of those up. And i should be good hopefully
I payed over $750.00 just for my front Currie control arms and axle housing bushings, but I'm building my Jeep piece by piece since I don't have the money to do everything all at once. I PM'd my buddy who runs the 4" kit you're interested in, he can give you first hand experience and advice about it.
10-23-2011 12:38 PM
Briangr
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
I wasn't saying it for you, I was saying it for the guy who suggested the smaller lift. The only way to make full use of it would be with something like MC, which you already said you didnt want to buy.
Yupp. Its all good dude. My plan for now is probably to get the 4" kit necromancer linked a few posts up. The currie website has their eight control arm kit priced at nearly $1000. Im sure its quality, but anything that allows me to set my pinion angle will suffice for my use.
Then a sye and cv driveshaft to take care of the vibes, as well as allow me to put on the aev Tummy Tuck that doesnt require a body lift.
That kit contains everything i would think i would need, based on what i know and what has been mentioned in this thread so far, except for bumpstops. So ill needa pick some of those up. And i should be good hopefully
10-23-2011 12:18 PM
GoldenSahara00 I wasn't saying it for you, I was saying it for the guy who suggested the smaller lift. The only way to make full use of it would be with something like MC, which you already said you didnt want to buy.
10-23-2011 12:12 PM
Briangr
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
Correct. If you look at the links in the first kit you posted they are basically bent tubing with factory style bushings on both ends, there isn't any way to adjust them so you'd be stuck running whatever the manufacturer felt was the best angle.

If you're looking for the best possible bolt on option for 4" of lift, then what Imped posted is the way to go. I would add the Currie Johnny Joint axle housing kit to his list of parts though, but that's just because I don't believe in mixing and matching bushings.
Alright, well ill look at some currie products, and compare them to the 4" kit you linked to a few posts ago

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
2-3 inch coils are not gona give enough room to allow full flex, and while if they are properly bump stopped, it's still wasting potential. The only way to run that and work would be to add in hiline or metal cloak or some other variety of fender to allow the tires more room to flex. I still completely tuck my 33s up front with 5 inches of lift.
i looked at metal cloak's, but for the price, i think i would rather do a lift and hang on to my flares.
10-23-2011 11:15 AM
GoldenSahara00 2-3 inch coils are not gona give enough room to allow full flex, and while if they are properly bump stopped, it's still wasting potential. The only way to run that and work would be to add in hiline or metal cloak or some other variety of fender to allow the tires more room to flex. I still completely tuck my 33s up front with 5 inches of lift.
10-23-2011 11:01 AM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Briangr View Post
Right, I was gunna ditch the t case drop from the kit, and go with the sye and cv driveshaft. But your saying the kit i linked to wouldnt let me adjust my pinion angle? Id have to go with the one you linked to do that?
Correct. If you look at the links in the first kit you posted they are basically bent tubing with factory style bushings on both ends, there isn't any way to adjust them so you'd be stuck running whatever the manufacturer felt was the best angle.

If you're looking for the best possible bolt on option for 4" of lift, then what Imped posted is the way to go. I would add the Currie Johnny Joint axle housing kit to his list of parts though, but that's just because I don't believe in mixing and matching bushings.
10-23-2011 09:21 AM
Imped 33's are small and don't require that much height. Stick with 2-3" coils, correct-length shocks, proper bump stops and good quality components. Maximize clearance at the belly and gas tank and do it right.

Currie track bars and arms
Currie steering
Currie AR
JB Conv. SYE
Double cardan shaft from any good shop (preferably Spicer parts)
Flat belly
Savvy gas tank skid and armor

That's a good start.
10-23-2011 09:03 AM
Briangr
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
Briangr, the 2 links you provided are 2 different styles of lift kit. The first 4" kit that you linked to only replaces the lower control arms with tubular arms, it uses clevite bushings (which are basically the same as the stock bushings) and it uses a transfer case drop bracket to control the driveline angles.

The second kit you posted is the 6" lift, but it's completely different from the first kit, it uses flex joints on one end of the arm, that are basically a clone of the Currie JJ with a few changes... it also has a replacement front trackbar, and sway bar disconnects, and you would be able to adjust your pinion angles with that kit, how ever you wouldn't be able to run it as is because you would still need a way to control driveline vibrations, so you'd need a SYE, and CV driveshaft.

Here's a link to the set up a good friend of mine runs: Jeep TJ Wrangler Suspension Lift It's also made by RC. It's the better 4" option IMO if you're going to go with RC. My buddy loves his set up and he recently wheeled Moab with it with no complaints. It's basically the 4" version of the 6" kit you first linked to, so keep in mind that you would still need a cv driveshaft and a SYE to use it without a TC drop/MML...
Right, I was gunna ditch the t case drop from the kit, and go with the sye and cv driveshaft. But your saying the kit i linked to wouldnt let me adjust my pinion angle? Id have to go with the one you linked to do that?
10-23-2011 03:05 AM
necromancer_tat Briangr, the 2 links you provided are 2 different styles of lift kit. The first 4" kit that you linked to only replaces the lower control arms with tubular arms, it uses clevite bushings (which are basically the same as the stock bushings) and it uses a transfer case drop bracket to control the driveline angles.

The second kit you posted is the 6" lift, but it's completely different from the first kit, it uses flex joints on one end of the arm, that are basically a clone of the Currie JJ with a few changes... it also has a replacement front trackbar, and sway bar disconnects, and you would be able to adjust your pinion angles with that kit, how ever you wouldn't be able to run it as is because you would still need a way to control driveline vibrations, so you'd need a SYE, and CV driveshaft.

Here's a link to the set up a good friend of mine runs: Jeep TJ Wrangler Suspension Lift It's also made by RC. It's the better 4" option IMO if you're going to go with RC. My buddy loves his set up and he recently wheeled Moab with it with no complaints. It's basically the 4" version of the 6" kit you first linked to, so keep in mind that you would still need a cv driveshaft and a SYE to use it without a TC drop/MML...
10-22-2011 11:56 PM
Briangr Anyone have experience with the tattons (spelling?) sye and driveshaft thats on sale in the vendors spotlight section? now thats a deal!
10-22-2011 11:41 PM
Briangr
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
I know what you mean, but realise that these jeeps are the only ones. The TJs we have now are all the world has. Thats why I take good care of mine. I plan on keeping it forever. so I plan on putting high quality parts into it. I understand the smart spending as well though. I don't have anything against RC, just shooting the wind.

I would get adjustable front and rear track bars with a 4 inch lift.

I am sure they are adjustable.
Very true man. Id love to hang on to the TJ for as long as i could. Ill deffiently be the one to kill mine, wont ever have it up for sale. If someone told me the RC doesnt last as long as higher quality kits, itd probably sway my decision. But as long as the quality of the kit only affects ride quality, i dont have a problem with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK00TJ View Post
I don't remember where I heard it (it was probably here though) but either the front or rear adjustable can rub the diff so the bracket should be used (but welded). I can't remember front or back but it was one of them.
Thanks for the heads up man, ill do a search
10-22-2011 11:36 PM
Briangr
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan View Post
Tis what ive heard too, but just like you its what Ive "heard" I have no first hand experience with RC's arms, just their 2.5" rear springs! An arm with Johnny Joints on both ends will have a great affect to your handling on and off road, but if the extra for them is worth it to you is personal choice!

Look at it this way, atleast you will start out with a decent kit lift that you can eventually fine tune and figure what works best for your personal needs from your rig

It definitely pays to do it correct the first time, I can attest to that. And the whole TT thing is awesome to think about. If you were to install a completely flat TT which is possible with a 1.25" BL you can gain about 3" of tc clearance. Thats equal to running 37"s on your rig, while only having to run 33"s
Im aware that rough country aint a good ride, and im aware that alot of people would say doin a rough country lift isnt "doing it right". But i deffiently wanna try out RC at some point in my lifetime, if i dont like it, i wont go to them again. Itd be a different story if the RC CA's didnt last as long, or something like that, but as long as ride quality is the only factor affected, its worth a shot in my book.

Im considering doing one of AEV's TT to keep body lift off my jeep. AEV has a skid that requires no body lift. Do you know anything about that one? and if it gets around the same amount of clearance
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