|11-17-2011 10:08 AM|
I wouldn't have any issue either and don't; I run a set of the steel myself although I do wish I had gotten the aluminum ones. Like I said I haven't heard of any real issues with the AR, so I would imagine this is something like you said; there is more to the story than what we're hearing. Doesn't really surprise me.
Even if there was a genuine problem I know Currie would take care of you, I've had nothing but great experiences working with them. Darrel, Travis and Lorraine at Currie all have gone above and beyond for me more than a few times.
|11-17-2011 09:59 AM|
|Black Magic Brakes||
I'm still not convinced that the arm wasn't pushed too close to the frame and got hung on the bolt while the tire was coming up and the arm got badly twisted. I've done the same to my steel arm and it wasn't pretty, but steel is more forgiving and can be twisted back which I did.
I would have no issue running any of their arms.
|11-17-2011 08:35 AM|
|geiman||Wonder if there was a bad batch or something. I know a handful of people who have the aluminum arms, one of which is very hard on his Jeep, and none of them have had problems.|
|11-17-2011 12:47 AM|
|Mortalis5509||I was reading on Rubicon Owners Forum and they had mentioned people breaking those AL anti rock arms. I'm not aganist AL at all, matter of fact I'm wanting to change my bumper to AL and maybe my skid if I ever stop spending money.|
|11-16-2011 04:19 PM|
|geiman||I would be curious to see the difference. I went straight from stock uppers and POS fixed lowers to the Savvy aluminum CAs so I don't have a good grasp of how heavy arms like the Rokmen ones are.|
|11-16-2011 04:17 PM|
Who's the one with the soft spot?
Also, I would have to say if you compared the beefy Rokmen control arms to the Savvy aluminum ones the weight savings would be a bit more substantial. Especially when you factor in all 8 arms.
|11-16-2011 03:29 PM|
I guess a nerve was hit.
|11-16-2011 03:25 PM|
|geiman||Lol, no soft spot. I guess I just expect people to have a bit thicker skin than that.|
|11-16-2011 03:23 PM|
|11-16-2011 03:07 PM|
The less your rig weighs, the better its going to be on the trail. That all goes back to gravity and physics and well, thats another story
|11-16-2011 02:59 PM|
Damn. Did I find a tender spot for you guys? Sounds like steel armor beat you up once or twice on middle school. If young and dumb isn't good enough for you how about young and poor?
Oh and my bad if "forged" wasn't the right word.
|11-16-2011 02:50 PM|
It's already been given those years to prove itself by many, including the guys over at Savvy. Ignorance isn't an excuse.
|11-16-2011 02:49 PM|
Learn a few things about materials, ultimate/tensile/yield strength, do the comparisons, and make a decision. There's no reason to "wait a couple years".....the research and 'proving' has already been done. Guys (the smart ones) have been running aluminum armor (belly pans, corners, rocker guards, bumpers) for years in the toughest stuff you can wheel. It holds up fine and weighs nothing.
For example--my full Rokmen aluminum corners weigh 11 lbs a piece with all hardware. I've used them as a pivot point and have laid the entire driver's side over on a rock. The tub is still perfectly straight and the corners needed some paint. Nothing more.
|11-16-2011 02:45 PM|
|KidRock171||Lol. I'm young and dumb. Guess I just havnt bought into beer can armor yet. the way it's forged I'm sure it's plenty tough. But I'm going to give it another couple years to prove itself before I invest in aluminum skids arms n such.|
|11-16-2011 09:51 AM|
Plus it's great seeing everyone's face scrunch up when you say you've got aluminum protecting your vehicle instead of steel.
|11-16-2011 09:47 AM|
|Imped||The weight savings adds up, but that's not why I would recommend aluminum AR arms or control arms. No rust and the cool/bling factor is the point there. Aluminum is just straight up cool.|
|11-16-2011 08:42 AM|
|geiman||For weight? I would imagine so. I have the aluminum ones from Savvy and they are very very nice, I have no complaints. I haven't compared their weight to a regular steel control arm, but I wouldn't imagine it would have much; I could be wrong though. Savvy can hook you up with steel, aluminum, double adjustable, regular adjustable, etc...|
|11-16-2011 01:36 AM|
|KidRock171||What about aluminum control arms? (Quick hijack sorry) getting Rokmen arms with JJ's but currie has aluminum arms now. Negligible?|
|11-16-2011 12:19 AM|
|11-15-2011 06:33 PM|
As far as I understand the weight savings really are negligible, they're mainly there for looks.
And it's a very straightforward install; mine probably took less than an hour start to finish.
|11-15-2011 06:22 PM|
|11-15-2011 05:48 PM|
|Mortalis5509||Buy it and run it as its loose setting. I have currie coils, fox shocks, front AR, and it handles great.|
|11-15-2011 08:39 AM|
I would say most people put it at one setting and leave it there, at least that's what I do. I have mine in the second to last setting when counting from the left (the second most loose setting). Not having to fool with it before and after wheeling is one of the benefits to having the Anti-Rock.
It's not hard to change which setting you wish to use, but it does require removing and then reinstalling a nut, so it might be 5 minutes worth of work. I can honestly say that I have never really noticed the AR making my Jeep more loose feeling on the road so I really wouldn't worry about it. But, if you would prefer a more stock like sway bar for on the street you can look into the SwayLOC. It "locks and unlocks" to give you the stiffness of the stock sway bar on the street, and the benefits of the Anti-Rock off road. But it's considerably more money, so keep that in mind. It wasn't worth the extra cash to me, so I went with the traditional AR, and I couldn't be more happy. I honestly can't see wanting it to be any stiffer for on the street.
|11-14-2011 10:18 PM|
|11-13-2011 01:54 PM|
|Imped||While the rear AR isn't 'needed', it's definitely an upgrade over stock. With its heavier rate, it'll handle better on the road and force the front AR to work more.|
|11-13-2011 11:04 AM|
|BackCountryMud||Awesome, thanks for the help!|
|11-13-2011 10:35 AM|
|11-13-2011 10:22 AM|
|11-13-2011 10:20 AM|
|BackCountryMud||Thanks for the input. I would have to purchase the front and rear AR swaybars, correct? Totalling to about $600-700?|
|11-10-2011 02:05 PM|
I love my AR. Mine is on the last setting and it is perfect for the road. I had it on the middle setting and found it too stiff for driving off road. If you are worried about the handling start in the middle and move in the direction you think you need to go.
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