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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 10:46 AM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rewind View Post
Is this a simple DIY project, or would it take a transmission person to install it?
It has nothing to do with the transmission shifter; it is a transfer case shifter mod. It replaces the linkage that runs between the end of the TC shift lever and the sector shaft that sticks out of the side of the transfer case. There is no internal work, simply the external shift linkage.

While you *can* do this with the skid in place it is a PITA. You really ought to do it with the skid off. That being said, removing the skid can be very easy or really hard, depending on the condition of the frame rails, the rail nutserts, the bolts, and being able to prop up the transmission properly when you disconnect it and drop the skid.

You will need to remove the four bolts that hold the front driveshaft to the TC output yoke and tie it up out of the way with coat hanger wire or a bungee cord. Torque the driveshaft bolts to 20 ft/lbs and use blue thread locker.

There are videos on YouTube on how to drop the skid. Some of them share that annoying YouTube automotive fantasyland super annoying trait of showing everything being neat, clean and super easy. They do not show fighting rusted nuts and bolts or discovering that you have a serious problem hidden whatever location that you were trying to fix. They can fe really unrealistic, expectation-wise.

However, there are some that also show skid removal as a horror show event, which - normally - it is not.

The actual install procedure it dead simple and nothing to sweat over. I have heard that the hardest part can be removing the four nuts coming down through the floor. Mine were a pain but came off. Novak supplies a replacement bracket that is now THREADED so that you simply screw the button head bolts down. No more nuts or washers.

Unfortunately, the instructions (very well done: clearly written and documented with ample photos) have some outdated photos, including the one that shows the complete kit.

There is no parts list, so you have to look at that photo to see if you got everything. I got a box from UPS that had a big hole in it. Novak's shipping dude apparently forgot to seal the small parts bag, and some fell out of the hole that UPS decided my box needed.

I could not figure out what was actually missing until I sent them a photo. They quickly sent me *some* of what looked to be missing. It turned out that I was only missing two bolt. I thought I was also missing the four nylock nuts and washers, but the kit no longer needs these parts. Had the excellent instructions been properly updated this question would never have become the back-and-forth stressfest that I experienced.

Other than that one big hiccup this was an easy install.

Highly recommended!

This guy likes to swear on video like he does in person. (Part of his charm...) His install was more of a problem for him than mine was for me. My cable routed a little differently. Maybe there is more variation underneath than I had expected. My install went smoothly, but I had the skid off and was already working on the transfer case installing my SYE and the Teraflex 2Low kit. The Novak was just this quickie extra project that I did while working down there.

Anyway, I like this guy and his videos, swearing and all. He can be pretty funny at times...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ILBms93pz0
Today 10:18 AM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaTJ06 View Post
where can I get one?
Novak's 231 & 242 Cable Shifter Kit
Today 08:46 AM
Rewind
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holton345 View Post
The Novak cable is a full replacement of the linkage from the transfer case shifter in the cab to the side of the transfer case body. The linkage used by Jeep is a mechanical nightmare that shifts poorly on a good day. It is stiff, clunky and prone to going out of adjustment.

The Novak cable is like a humongous bicycle shifter cable. It is like 3/8" thick. It makes the transfer case shift very, very smoothly.

Also, if you have installed a body lift, motor mount lift, transfer case drop or tummy tuck your transmission shifter will end up moved and cause you some heartburn as you sort that problem out. Likewise, the transfer case shifter lever will be in a different spacial relationship with the TC itself, causing that crappy linkage to bind up worse than normal and go out of adjustment even easier. In some cases it can prevent the driver from shifting the TC much at all.

The Novak, being a cable, is flexible, so you do not have to sweat out relocating anything. Once both ends are attached properly and it is adjusted you can alter that spacial relationship between the TC and the shifter lever with no ill effects in most cases. It will still work and shift smoothly due to the fact that the flexible cable will alloy the ends to move around some while continuing to slide smoothly within its casing.

It is a very sweet upgrade, even if you do not *need* it. I love mine. I installed it with my SYE setup and the Teraflex 2Low kit. Nice stuff, to be sure!
Is this a simple DIY project, or would it take a transmission person to install it?
Today 07:21 AM
MichaelR Not sure if these are the same ones, but I installed the Grabars in my TJ, they look grea tand are very solid.

TJ Front GraBars
Today 07:02 AM
DBoat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeper4life View Post
I second the Novak shifter cable. I love mine. No more fighting with the dumb stock linkage!
My wife has started to drive our Jeep off-road but I would have to get the Jeep in 4wd low. Now she can do it on her own.
Will post up pics of the handles, but the wife and I are loving them already, the location makes it much easier to get into the Jeep.
Today 01:45 AM
Jeeper4life I second the Novak shifter cable. I love mine. No more fighting with the dumb stock linkage!
Today 01:31 AM
Scruffy Wilson
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4xTraction View Post
Made some frame mounted rock sliders to protect the body. I couldn't find frame mounted sliders that tucked up to the body with a 1 1/4" body lift. Living in MN I want to avoid rust which is likely to form between the body mounted sliders. Should have made these a few weeks ago - before I came down on a rock on the passenger side.
that lokks pretty sweet man

I like the joker decal to
Today 01:17 AM
GeorgiaTJ06
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holton345 View Post
The Novak cable is a full replacement of the linkage from the transfer case shifter in the cab to the side of the transfer case body. The linkage used by Jeep is a mechanical nightmare that shifts poorly on a good day. It is stiff, clunky and prone to going out of adjustment. The Novak cable is like a humongous bicycle shifter cable. It is like 3/8" thick. It makes the transfer case shift very, very smoothly. Also, if you have installed a body lift, motor mount lift, transfer case drop or tummy tuck your transmission shifter will end up moved and cause you some heartburn as you sort that problem out. Likewise, the transfer case shifter lever will be in a different spacial relationship with the TC itself, causing that crappy linkage to bind up worse than normal and go out of adjustment even easier. In some cases it can prevent the driver from shifting the TC much at all. The Novak, being a cable, is flexible, so you do not have to sweat out relocating anything. Once both ends are attached properly and it is adjusted you can alter that spacial relationship between the TC and the shifter lever with no ill effects in most cases. It will still work and shift smoothly due to the fact that the flexible cable will alloy the ends to move around some while continuing to slide smoothly within its casing. It is a very sweet upgrade, even if you do not *need* it. I love mine. I installed it with my SYE setup and the Teraflex 2Low kit. Nice stuff, to be sure!
where can I get one?
Today 12:14 AM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by MyRed88 View Post
what is the shifter cables purpose? And pics of the grab handles?
The Novak cable is a full replacement of the linkage from the transfer case shifter in the cab to the side of the transfer case body. The linkage used by Jeep is a mechanical nightmare that shifts poorly on a good day. It is stiff, clunky and prone to going out of adjustment.

The Novak cable is like a humongous bicycle shifter cable. It is like 3/8" thick. It makes the transfer case shift very, very smoothly.

Also, if you have installed a body lift, motor mount lift, transfer case drop or tummy tuck your transmission shifter will end up moved and cause you some heartburn as you sort that problem out. Likewise, the transfer case shifter lever will be in a different spacial relationship with the TC itself, causing that crappy linkage to bind up worse than normal and go out of adjustment even easier. In some cases it can prevent the driver from shifting the TC much at all.

The Novak, being a cable, is flexible, so you do not have to sweat out relocating anything. Once both ends are attached properly and it is adjusted you can alter that spacial relationship between the TC and the shifter lever with no ill effects in most cases. It will still work and shift smoothly due to the fact that the flexible cable will alloy the ends to move around some while continuing to slide smoothly within its casing.

It is a very sweet upgrade, even if you do not *need* it. I love mine. I installed it with my SYE setup and the Teraflex 2Low kit. Nice stuff, to be sure!
Today 12:09 AM
dadude I didn't do it today, but this was the last major job I did. My skidplate nutserts had either seized or pulled through. I cut up the frame and welded in new steel plates with stainless nuts on the back.

Details and photos can be found here:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f362/pi...ir-914889.html

I have a feeling a posted this to the wrong forum section. Sorry about that, still pretty new to jeeps and this forum!

Thanks,

Jon
Yesterday 11:54 PM
MyRed88
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBoat View Post
Novak shifter cable, new springs and new metal grab handles.. loving all of it right now.
what is the shifter cables purpose? And pics of the grab handles?
Yesterday 11:18 PM
thedawgshow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holton345 View Post
I just bought the kit from Randy's Ring & Pinion. No locker or axle shafts, just the re-gear stuff for the pumpkins including the master rebuild kits and the thick cut ring gear for the D44. (I am currently at 3.73 in the D30 and D44.)

Yukon Gear & Install Kit package for Jeep TJ with Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear, 4.56 ratio. - YGK007

I want a Detroit TrueTrac LSD in the 44. I have a Spartan up front that I will transfer over with the new gears.

I am having trouble determining WHICH TT to get. Does the thick cut ring gear and the 3.73 carrier affect which model I get? Will running that setup with 4.56 gears make this more difficult?

This is on the way, too. Very important stuff...

Differentials Book

This is going to be a blast to do, but I have a ton of studying ahead of me and will have to pony up for the tools.

Best part is that after I get it all figured out and have mocked it up enough to have all the preloads and the backlash numbers within the specs and can finally install everything the TJ will be so much nicer! And then I will not fear doing this to the JK later on down the road...

Man, I do not have an answer for your questions, but I do envy your courage. I have been watching a few videos on youtube and doing some reading myself, and kind of thought it is just out of my league. I might find the courage after reading your threads though if you do it!!!!



Quote:
Originally Posted by 4xTraction View Post
Made some frame mounted rock sliders to protect the body. I couldn't find frame mounted sliders that tucked up to the body with a 1 1/4" body lift. Living in MN I want to avoid rust which is likely to form between the body mounted sliders. Should have made these a few weeks ago - before I came down on a rock on the passenger side.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mamefreak View Post
Had a good laugh because of it.

I ordered a pizza and waited on my front steps for it to arrive. I had parked the jeep directly in front of my apartment and a space had opened up in front of me. I saw a car slowly pull up, stop and start to reverse. He was at the completely wrong angle to parallel park but kept going back and I kept watching. He seemed completely careless. And BAMMMM, he backs right into my front bumper.

I sit silently watching him park... He gets out and looks and me and shrugs " well that's what bumpers are for right"... Hesitates and says " that's your vehicle isn't it?...... Sorry...."
I say "Hey don't feel sorry for me, I feel sorry for you, look at your bumper"

He had crushed his late model Honda bumper in in the nice exact shape of my winch fairlead rollers and plate. He failed to realize that a solid steel ARB bumper bolted to the frame doesn't have any give.

Pizza guy pulled up, and went inside to relax.
Man owning a Jeep is awesome :-)
Yesterday 10:06 PM
DBoat Novak shifter cable, new springs and new metal grab handles.. loving all of it right now.
Yesterday 10:02 PM
cBill15 I had a front hub assembly going bad on the drivers front, so as I was scoping out what was going on under there, I noticed my pads and rotors were needing some attention. So I just changed the hub assemblies, rotors, and pads on both sides. Easy job and had a few cold ones while I worked on it. Cheers!!
Yesterday 09:57 PM
Mamefreak Had a good laugh because of it.

I ordered a pizza and waited on my front steps for it to arrive. I had parked the jeep directly in front of my apartment and a space had opened up in front of me. I saw a car slowly pull up, stop and start to reverse. He was at the completely wrong angle to parallel park but kept going back and I kept watching. He seemed completely careless. And BAMMMM, he backs right into my front bumper.

I sit silently watching him park... He gets out and looks and me and shrugs " well that's what bumpers are for right"... Hesitates and says " that's your vehicle isn't it?...... Sorry...."
I say "Hey don't feel sorry for me, I feel sorry for you, look at your bumper"

He had crushed his late model Honda bumper in in the nice exact shape of my winch fairlead rollers and plate. He failed to realize that a solid steel ARB bumper bolted to the frame doesn't have any give.

Pizza guy pulled up, and went inside to relax.
Man owning a Jeep is awesome :-)
Yesterday 09:55 PM
cBill15
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4xTraction View Post
Made some frame mounted rock sliders to protect the body. I couldn't find frame mounted sliders that tucked up to the body with a 1 1/4" body lift. Living in MN I want to avoid rust which is likely to form between the body mounted sliders. Should have made these a few weeks ago - before I came down on a rock on the passenger side.
Very nice. I'm jealous. I wished I had some of those. Drinks to you.
Yesterday 09:29 PM
Jeeper4life
Quote:
Originally Posted by PJsGE View Post
Bought 2006 Golden Eagle on Saturday and here is the "what did I do list"! Sunday - cleaned and detailed interior Monday - took it to my schools auto mechanics class and they installed new muffler Wednesday - class turned rotors, put on new pads, and new front seals Thursday - hope to get rear pinion seal in and add new Rancho 5000's to the already installed 2.5" lift Friday - headed to Cuchara CO for the weekend with two other Jeep buds
Sounds cool! The golden eagle TJ's are kinda rare aren't they?
Yesterday 08:30 PM
PJsGE Bought 2006 Golden Eagle on Saturday and here is the "what did I do list"!
Sunday - cleaned and detailed interior
Monday - took it to my schools auto mechanics class and they installed new muffler
Wednesday - class turned rotors, put on new pads, and new front seals
Thursday - hope to get rear pinion seal in and add new Rancho 5000's to the already installed 2.5" lift
Friday - headed to Cuchara CO for the weekend with two other Jeep buds
Yesterday 08:28 PM
4xTraction Made some frame mounted rock sliders to protect the body. I couldn't find frame mounted sliders that tucked up to the body with a 1 1/4" body lift. Living in MN I want to avoid rust which is likely to form between the body mounted sliders. Should have made these a few weeks ago - before I came down on a rock on the passenger side.
Yesterday 08:18 PM
4xTraction Needed to replace my snake like "stock" tie rod with this 1 1/4" solid cold rolled replacement.
Yesterday 07:36 PM
Codysrubicon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcal73 View Post
Yep it was a Cherokee. Im no tow truck driver but pulled up next to that and it just didnt look right!
yeah there are a few ways to strap a wheel. That is definitely not one of them.
Yesterday 06:46 PM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedawgshow View Post
Hahahahaha!!!! You may be, but I wish and hope the best for you. I just don't have the tools or I may become delusional too!!!!!

I will be keeping an eye out for when you do it and look forward to reading about it.
I just bought the kit from Randy's Ring & Pinion. No locker or axle shafts, just the re-gear stuff for the pumpkins including the master rebuild kits and the thick cut ring gear for the D44. (I am currently at 3.73 in the D30 and D44.)

Yukon Gear & Install Kit package for Jeep TJ with Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear, 4.56 ratio. - YGK007

I want a Detroit TrueTrac LSD in the 44. I have a Spartan up front that I will transfer over with the new gears.

I am having trouble determining WHICH TT to get. Does the thick cut ring gear and the 3.73 carrier affect which model I get? Will running that setup with 4.56 gears make this more difficult?

This is on the way, too. Very important stuff...

http://www.ringpinion.com/TechnicalHelp/DiffBook.aspx

This is going to be a blast to do, but I have a ton of studying ahead of me and will have to pony up for the tools.

Best part is that after I get it all figured out and have mocked it up enough to have all the preloads and the backlash numbers within the specs and can finally install everything the TJ will be so much nicer! And then I will not fear doing this to the JK later on down the road...

Yesterday 06:23 PM
thedawgshow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holton345 View Post
I spent all day studying ring and pinion setup. I am seriously thinking about doing the 4.56s myself.

I must be delusional...

Hahahahaha!!!! You may be, but I wish and hope the best for you. I just don't have the tools or I may become delusional too!!!!!

I will be keeping an eye out for when you do it and look forward to reading about it.
Yesterday 06:21 PM
Norcal73 Yep it was a Cherokee. Im no tow truck driver but pulled up next to that and it just didnt look right!
Yesterday 06:01 PM
Jeffk1975 Yesterday I did the 3rd brake light "mod "

Yesterday 05:24 PM
Holton345 I spent all day studying ring and pinion setup. I am seriously thinking about doing the 4.56s myself.

I must be delusional...
Yesterday 05:15 PM
jp2611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcal73 View Post
....when the tow truck driver says screw it, its not my car.....and hooks his chain through the outside of someones rim! I think I would be a little more than pissed....

Attachment 1530537
Thats just lazy right there......I could be wrong but it looks like thats the back end of a Grand Cherokee WJ? How hard would it have been to hook the frame or axle if already that far?
Yesterday 05:00 PM
Norcal73 ....when the tow truck driver says screw it, its not my car.....and hooks his chain through the outside of someones rim! I think I would be a little more than pissed....

Attachment 1530537
Yesterday 09:09 AM
Driftrage25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Angela View Post
My guess is that it cracked because of internal rust. The frame metal may have thinned/flaked so much that a solid bead wouldn't provide much. He needs to get in there and assess the condition of the metal inside to see how widespread it is. Mine showed up as a slight hole, same spot but passenger side. Found the inside was rotted all to hell.
Oh yea I didn't think of rust I live in west Texas and we don't get much of that that you would get from other parts of the country. And they don't salt the roads here either
Yesterday 08:05 AM
Ryan Angela
Quote:
Originally Posted by Driftrage25 View Post

Dude!! It's an easy fix if you have the time but not the dime grab a buddy that's good at welding and clean out the crack with a ginder and drimmel then throw a good bead on it and done your crack will be stronger than the frame is
My guess is that it cracked because of internal rust. The frame metal may have thinned/flaked so much that a solid bead wouldn't provide much. He needs to get in there and assess the condition of the metal inside to see how widespread it is. Mine showed up as a slight hole, same spot but passenger side. Found the inside was rotted all to hell.
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