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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-08-2012 10:09 PM
humpaco
Quote:
Originally Posted by Getinfreaky
It makes a loud clicking sound behind the glovebox when I go slowly about 5 clicks away from full hot and about 4 clicking sounds when I go from full hot to full cold quickly and vice versa..
That sounds like broken teeth on your actuator motor. That's the device that opens and closes the blend door. It's located under the dash on the passenger side. Very easy fix.
12-19-2011 07:59 AM
scgeek12 both of my hoses are the same temp (hot) when running, got mine to a lukewarm, but its only when im driving lol, thinking my heater has more than 1 issue now, but i honestly havent even been trying to fix it lately just sucking it up and being cold lol
12-19-2011 04:08 AM
Getinfreaky Ok, so I couldn't sleep while thinking about this. So after an hour outside in the north carolina frost (34 F).. I am certain mine must be an air blender... It makes a loud clicking sound behind the glovebox when I go slowly about 5 clicks away from full hot and about 4 clicking sounds when I go from full hot to full cold quickly and vice versa.. And full cold on vent on a cold night like tonight is not much change from full hot.. I'm moving to northern Utah in a few months and can't have this lack of heat.. Oh well.. I guess the only good news today is I'm awake early for work..
12-19-2011 02:30 AM
Getinfreaky
Heater Treater

Bear with me, I'm writing all this on my phone. But your post just gave me a second wind...

Scgeek12, first. Thank you for your post.. I have been sorting through heater post for the last 4 days and yours is detailed and intelligent questions..

Now, I'll begin with my problem, day 4 after buying a used 2000 TJ, replaced switch to get blower going, blower works not but very cool heat, day 5 I flush heater core and heat gets up to an amazing uncomfortable luke warm. Today (day 8) I added the Same flush valve you have and flushed the coolant, heat gets a little warmer but not going to melt ice and snow when winter hits. With both heater hoses hot, I have tried all what I know to do..

My only question to you is are both of your hoses exactly the same temp or the bottom one slightly cooler? Your post has me excited to back off the heat a little and see if it gets warmer tomorrow.. If it wasn't 2 a.m., I would go run the jeep now and test this...

Anyways, this gets me to my point

I read today about this Heater Treater replacement door.. They sell a steel door replacement for blender doors that are made of plastic and break.. It specifically calls out 2000 jeep wranglers about having a special flexible plastic door. According to them, the travel from the air blender motor can go today causing this door not to seal but still work.. This is what I was suspecting on mine as when I change form hot to cold I can hear about 4 small spaced clicks..

I'm a newbie here and a very basic shade tree mech. But it seems if you have this problem.. Maybe the act off backing off an 1/8 of a turn may allow the door to seal as it's not over traveled anymore? I hope this helps ya..

Oh yeah.. That's HeaterTreater.net

I probably won't buy their product but they gave me some free knowledge..
11-27-2011 01:47 PM
scgeek12
Quote:
Originally Posted by digio12 View Post
By the way, I just found the 4.0L coolant flow direction schematic in the 98TJ FSM... Just a little different than the 2.5L
you ever check the t-stat?
11-27-2011 08:00 AM
digio12 By the way, I just found the 4.0L coolant flow direction schematic in the 98TJ FSM... Just a little different than the 2.5L
11-21-2011 10:38 AM
scgeek12 i would imagine the inlet / outlet on the core would be the same no matter which way the pump spins, just on one the pump pushes the coolant through the core and on the other it pulls it through, that would be my guess anyway
11-21-2011 10:28 AM
Peepers
Quote:
Originally Posted by scgeek12 View Post
thats for a 99, not sure what year yours is but a member on here (atthetop) can supply you with an electronic copy of your year of jeeps FSM, i got mine from him/her and got one for my buddy at work who has an 04, it does say that some previous years had water pumps that turn in the opposite direction so that might be it, but im not sure since i dont have a pic of how the coolant flows on the older years
Mines a 98. I alread have the service manual (from atthetop i believe). and I didn't even bother to check, I just jumped right in.
11-21-2011 10:23 AM
scgeek12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peepers View Post
Well this is interesting... I'm pretty sure my hose to the heater core goes into the top... I'll have to double check when I pick my jeep up from the shop...
thats for a 99, not sure what year yours is but a member on here (atthetop) can supply you with an electronic copy of your year of jeeps FSM, i got mine from him/her and got one for my buddy at work who has an 04, it does say that some previous years had water pumps that turn in the opposite direction so that might be it, but im not sure since i dont have a pic of how the coolant flows on the older years
11-21-2011 09:48 AM
Peepers
Quote:
Originally Posted by scgeek12 View Post
actually i just found a better pic further down the FSM cooling system and it looks like the (on mine) lower hose is the inlet coming from the T-stat, and the upper hose is the outlet going to the waterpump, so might be your T-stat is stuck closed


Well this is interesting... I'm pretty sure my hose to the heater core goes into the top... I'll have to double check when I pick my jeep up from the shop...
11-21-2011 09:40 AM
scgeek12
Quote:
Originally Posted by digio12 View Post
Very interesting. I wonder if the upper hose is the inlet or outlet on the 98... I guess I can't tell if it is stuck open or closed if I don't know which way the fluid is going. Also, the engine doesn't overheat if that makes a difference.
you can take your thermostat out and put it in a pot of water and boil it on the stove, if it opens up when it gets hot its ok, if not then its bad, it might not be overheating because its colder outside, which is why your trying to use the heater easy test, or just toss a new one in since they are cheap
11-20-2011 08:59 PM
digio12 Very interesting. I wonder if the upper hose is the inlet or outlet on the 98... I guess I can't tell if it is stuck open or closed if I don't know which way the fluid is going. Also, the engine doesn't overheat if that makes a difference.
11-20-2011 07:08 PM
scgeek12 actually i just found a better pic further down the FSM cooling system and it looks like the (on mine) lower hose is the inlet coming from the T-stat, and the upper hose is the outlet going to the waterpump, so might be your T-stat is stuck closed


11-20-2011 07:05 PM
scgeek12 reading on in the FSM it does say " Engines from previous model years, depending upon application, may have been equipped with a forward (clockwise) rotating water pump. so that might explain the hoses but it still might be something to look into
11-20-2011 07:03 PM
scgeek12 btw yes both heater hoses should be hot, according to the FSM the lower hose is the inlet side so if that one is not getting hot i would imagine your water pump isnt pushing coolant to the core, but that doesnt make any sense if your other (top) hose is hot, maybe they are mixed up somehow? i have the FSM for a 99 so its 1 year newew but i wouldnt think they would change that, as far as the slide im not sure on that one mine has the knobs not the slides so its different
11-20-2011 06:59 PM
scgeek12 nope, i just bought a 2000W inverter and a small 200W space heater, it gets the job done for now lol i put on some tube fenders recently and moved the vacuum reservoir up to the blank tray on the opposite side of the battery tray and replaced all the vacuum lines with no help, i am going to try and flush it 1 more time to see if that does anything but if not im just going to buy a bigger coat lol
11-20-2011 05:00 PM
digio12 BTW, scgeek12 have you had any success??
11-20-2011 04:58 PM
digio12 I have been following this thread for awhile now because I am having a similar problem in my 98 TJ (also not getting any heat).

[FYI photos attached below]

Today, I pulled the control panel off and found that there is a little red clip that holds the braided metal cable that (I am assuming) is the control cable for the mixing door. This clip slipped out of place causing the temperature control cable to not fully extend from left (cold) to right (hot). I placed it back into the slot where it appears to belong so when the temp control is swiped from left to right it stays put and you get the full range of movement - I thought I fixed my problem for sure. But I still wasn't getting any heat . The funny thing is that I get cold air when it is turned to the left...

I, also, have one of those aftermarket Prestone flush tees in the upper heater hose and make it a habit to flush the system about every 12 months with the heat on to flush the core also (I had to replace the entire cooling system including both heater hoses and both radiator hoses as well as the radiator itself when it blew from overheating a few years back - the heat HAS worked after this repair but doesn't now). The upper hose is hot when at operating temp (I think my t-stat is 190 degrees or so) but the lower hose doesn't get hot.

Please keep in mind, I am a novice fix-it-yourselfer and I read a lot of information about vaccum lines, accumulators, etc. in this thread and I am getting a bit lost in it all.

So I guess here are my questions:

1. Does the lower heater hose need to be hot at operating temp to get heat?
2. (Follow up) If it isn't hot, what should this tell me?
3. Does the red clip that holds the mixing door cable in place stay put somehow - it seems to slip out?
4. How would you further troubleshoot this issue?

I would appreciate any feedback and please remember that I am begrudgingly a layperson when it comes to this stuff so if responses could be dumbed down just a notch or two it would be greatly appreciated!

Control panel type
Attachment 78609

Red clip back in place
Attachment 78610

Top of assembly (guessing colored wire cluster is vaccum lines?)
Attachment 78611

Top of assembly, detail
Attachment 78612

Heater hoses with flush tee; top hose hot, bottom hose not
Attachment 78619
09-30-2011 05:55 PM
scgeek12 just went and pulled the vac. line off the accumulator and quite a few big clumps of mud came out lol, (note to self- wear safty glasses next time) i cleaned it out with some throttle body cleaner (the line) and am going to see if that works, it doesnt look dry rotted at all now that its clean, going to laugh if i froze all last winter because of mud :-)
09-30-2011 05:43 PM
scgeek12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby427 View Post
It's mounted under the battery tray. Just follow the hose from the rear of the intake.
It comes off the intake, runs across the top of the firewall/cowl. Tee's off in the center of the firewall/cowl to feed your HVAC, then continues on to the reservoir.
found the line, it looks to be in decent condition, altho right where it goes into the accumulator it is COVERED in mud and MIGHT be dry-rotted a little bit, im about to go see if i have an extra peice that will work, is it supposed to be a hard vac. line that comes off the back of the intake? it comes right off the back into a "T" and splits off, 1 goes to the cruise control servo the other continues along the path you describes (its very loose seems like the line is to long?) then another "T" and goes to the HVAC then down to the accumulator, the line looks newish except that one end where it goes to the accum, if i have an extra peice ill try the heater tonight when its cools down and let you know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by erickpl View Post
I had issues with my heater not working well at all. Did a flush/reverse flush and it didn't help... until I noticed the water pump waterfall. Took it off and the impeller wouldn't even turn freely at ALL.

Replaced it for about $35.00, installed it and have been enjoying heat since.

During that time, I NEVER overheated at all. Just a thought.
checked around the pump pretty well and dont see any signs of a leak at all, also i can feel the fluid moving through the lines pretty good and i pressure checked the system while i was out there and it checks out good
09-29-2011 02:24 PM
erickpl I had issues with my heater not working well at all. Did a flush/reverse flush and it didn't help... until I noticed the water pump waterfall. Took it off and the impeller wouldn't even turn freely at ALL.

Replaced it for about $35.00, installed it and have been enjoying heat since.

During that time, I NEVER overheated at all. Just a thought.
09-29-2011 01:37 PM
Shelby427 It's mounted under the battery tray. Just follow the hose from the rear of the intake.
It comes off the intake, runs across the top of the firewall/cowl. Tee's off in the center of the firewall/cowl to feed your HVAC, then continues on to the reservoir.
09-29-2011 06:33 AM
scgeek12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby427 View Post
Hmm,wonder if maybe you might have a weak vacuum source.
Off the top of my head, if the engine isn't producing a high enough vacuum rate, the system may not have enough guts to pull the door fully open/closed. Back off the switch a little and it has just enough to hold it there.

Yep it does have a vacuum reservoir, but it only holds the amount it's fed. Full at 18 psi is stronger then say full at 12 psi of vacuum. That's why it's there. As engine speed increases, vacuum pressure drops. So the tank holds a reserve to compensate.

But if it was being supplied a low enough source to begin with it could easily do this.

Would be like old jeeps with vacuum powered wipers. No reservoir on them. Wipers worked great at idle. But would slow to a crawl running down the highway.

Also you may want to look at the main vacuum line from the intake to the reservoir and the tank itself. Leaks at either could cause a weak feed to the the HVAC unit controls.
hmm that might be it, will try to check on friday, just got off a long shift and got to get up for work again soon lol, but if i turn the heater on to any setting (or A/C) and turn the fan from the lowest setting to the highest quickly nothing will come out it will make a "sucking" sound, but if i go from the first setting, to the second, to the third, to the highest slowly it will work just fine in every setting, not sure where the accumulator for the system is but ill check the FSM at work 2morrow and check out that vac. line, thanks!
09-28-2011 11:31 PM
Shelby427 Hmm,wonder if maybe you might have a weak vacuum source.
Off the top of my head, if the engine isn't producing a high enough vacuum rate, the system may not have enough guts to pull the door fully open/closed. Back off the switch a little and it has just enough to hold it there.

Yep it does have a vacuum reservoir, but it only holds the amount it's fed. Full at 18 psi is stronger then say full at 12 psi of vacuum. That's why it's there. As engine speed increases, vacuum pressure drops. So the tank holds a reserve to compensate.

But if it was being supplied a low enough source to begin with it could easily do this.

Would be like old jeeps with vacuum powered wipers. No reservoir on them. Wipers worked great at idle. But would slow to a crawl running down the highway.

Also you may want to look at the main vacuum line from the intake to the reservoir and the tank itself. Leaks at either could cause a weak feed to the the HVAC unit controls.
09-28-2011 10:52 PM
smccollamjr Is there a calibration procedure? I was having trouble with the climate control on my Silverado. I found a procedure on line to calibrate the HVAC system and it fixed it.
09-28-2011 03:20 PM
scgeek12 sorry for not updating this been pretty busy, i flushed the system and it helped a little, BUT i found that if i turn the temp knob all the way to full hot, then back about an 1/8 of a turn it actually gets pretty hot, but full hot it gets cooler... its a brand new switch so not sure why, either way its good enough to get me through the winter lol, thanks for all the help on this and replies!
09-13-2011 12:21 AM
scgeek12 im going to try and flush it 2morrow, well later today i guess since its past midnight lol, thanks for the info so far, also shelby ive read quite a few great posts from you and you seem to know what your talking about! ill start chasing the vac. lines i guess lol
09-12-2011 10:06 PM
s14sh3r Haven't done it on my Jeep, but I flushed the heater core out on my Blazer a couple years ago and it works fine now. Pull both hoses off and use a garden hose and flush until clear, then do the other hose. Repeat until it runs free and clear.
09-12-2011 10:06 PM
jp2611 It can't be this easy--but I will say it any way-----could you be getting a vacuum from the missing seal? SO that in the winter you get the cold air and the summer you get the hot? I mean if it didn't need to be sealed why did they?
09-12-2011 10:05 PM
Shelby427 Yes that is an add on Prestone flush tee installed by a PO.

Try to flush the core BOTH directions. A blocked heater core can have both hoses hot.


The center duct is your cowl water drain. Looks like the foam deteriorated, and fell off.

1 nut holds it to one of the evaporator case bolts, its on the right side. Pull it off, clean it out, and you can replace the foam with new stuff from Home Depot or Lowes.
Look for it in the weatherstripping section.

As for the 'blocked" fresh air intake, it's factory. That plate is to help stop rain water from running straight into the fresh air intake below it. If it wasn't there your floor on the passenger side would be soaked each time it rained.

You have multiple doors on the evaporator/heater case. Fresh-recycle, heat-a/c, and mode(s).

All vacuum operated. You may hear one door working, but maybe not all of them are.
Bad switch, kinked/leaking vacuum lines, loose or broken linkage from the vacuum motors, or even a broken door.

Takes some doing to see em, but it's worth it to see where your problem is.


And how do I know all this stuff? Well I've been doing it for 35 years which means squat, but I changed the evaporator/dryer/orifice and heater core in ours yesterday.

Wasn't really that bad, OK except for the 3 thousand 7 hundred and 48 screws that have to come out the the dash to pull it. Or so it seemed.

Luckily they are all the same, save for a couple and it's obvious where they go.

Granted I've been doing this stuff for a while, but it still took me nearly 7 hours start to finish, and that includes evacuating and recharging the a/c.
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