|01-29-2012 04:31 PM|
The reason why 10w-30 and 15w-40 and 20-50 were all popular and are still available today Is because Back in the day they were more shear stable, they used group VI modifiers that would break down and the more there was in the oil the more it would shear. The larger the viscosity rating (0w-40 Vs. 15w-40) the more the oil would become thinner with use.
Now today The VI modifiers are much better and don't break down, so now the VI modifiers are wanted because the advantage of having a thinner oil at start up is much greater now that the risk oil sharing is gone.
we are now in an age of 0w oils or 5w-50s instead of super thick 20w-50s and 15w-40s.
With synthetic oil that shear stability is ever better because unlike Dinos that use a 10w base to start with then uses those modifiers to turn into a 30w at operating temps synthetic uses a 30w to begin with then they formulate it to resist thickening up when it cools down.
Thats my understanding of it but if you want a 100% accurate story on Visc then check out Bobistheoilguy and learn from the very many knowledgeable members there.
|01-29-2012 03:18 PM|
It is also cheaper for the oil companies to make 10w-30 Vs. 5w-30 and since most people are not very informed on oil Viscosity and practice some old school thoughts 10w-30 and other 10w oils sell very well so companies offer them. Most people are afraid of 0w oils but thats because they don't fully understand what it means.
Alot of new Cars that once called for 5w-20 and now being spec'd for 0w-20. Popular for Toyota and Honda.
But The difference between 5w and 0w many times are very small until temps get cold and below freezing. It would be more accurate to look an an Oils Visc at 40c and 100c Mobil 1 High Mileage Oils
5W-30 10W-30 10W-40
Viscosity (ASTM D445)
cSt @ 40 ║C 69.2 78.1 95.9
cSt @ 100 ║C 11.7 12 14.71
Viscosity Index 165 149 160
|01-29-2012 11:26 AM|
I like what I've read on that site.. But if these theories are true, why doesn't everyone run a 0w-30 oil to ease startup flow and lubrication??
I may switch to a 5w or 0w-30 in my Jeep after reading that... I've got lifters tapping on cold startup...
|12-15-2011 12:33 AM|
|12-14-2011 12:48 PM|
it is safe to run 5w-30 in the summer.
the 10w or 5w numbers simply means what the oils viscosity is at cold temp
the 30 is the weight of the oil when at operating temp.
so even in hot conditions a 5w-30 is going to be the same 30 as a 10w-30
some like to run 10w-30s in their jeeps during summer because its whats reccomended by the manual, but 10w oils are pretty old school and not needed anymore. running the 10w during the summer though won't do any harm.
read this if you want full detail, Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy
and in short, 5w-30 is safe all year around. before anyone challenges me on that please read that link first.
|12-14-2011 12:46 PM|
Yes its safe..
Also to really clean your engine you can throw some ATF in your oil.. drive it for a day then dump it and replace it with the new stuff.. use maybe half a quart.. atf has a lot of detergents in it which will help clean :-)
|12-14-2011 11:53 AM|
|12-14-2011 11:48 AM|
Marvel mystery oil is an oil thinner.....
and yes, try a 5w-30
|12-14-2011 11:45 AM|
I use any standard filters from carquest or fram or whatever... never been to picky on it. But I learned over the years with this straight 6 that she'll be soooo noisy as soon as I change the oil if I use Lucas. Yeah, its good to coat the parts but not so good to keep the oil flowing to the top end. Either way, mine is noisy everytime I change it but the thinner oils really help keep it down to where its hardly noticeable.
Unless you continue to have a lot of unbearable noise I wouldn't worry about a flush yet. Best thing to do is to let it run for about 5 minutes then shut it off and immediatly drain the oil while its hot. Just be careful not to have burning hot oil run up your arm (not sure how I know that!) and, let it drain then drip for awhile. I usually let it drain then go in for lunch or dinner or something giving it at least 45 min to an hour.
Flushing just means running it to get hot and draining the oil, then filling it and running till hot and draining it again. It takes an extra 5 quarts to do each time but helps clean it all out. Lucas ain't bad, I love the stuff. Just the I6 gets really noisy up top with any thicker oil.
|12-14-2011 11:40 AM|
|12-14-2011 09:47 AM|
something to consider that might make you happier.
You keep adding aditives, stabalizers, etc... Things like the motor honey, lucas, marvel, etc... all are super thick. And, they thicken your oil. The thicker the oil is, the harder it is for the oil pump to get the oil up to the lifters as quick as they need it. Shoot, you even said it takes 10-15 minutes to quiet down, that means it takes your engine 10-15 minutes to thin all that stuff out enough to operate normally.
Drain all of that out of there and let it drain good. Then, fill 'er up with a 5-30 or something instead of a 10-40 and run it. And, do not add anything to thicken the oil.
Based off all of the things you've added, you might even need to flush the block. Run a 5-30 for a couple days, drain it and fill it. Run again for a couple days, drain it and fill it. After a couple or a few oil changes you'll have all of the thicker stuff out that is causing it to struggle to get the oil to the lifters quick enough for them to stay quiet.
When lifters tick loudly... it is thinner oil you want. Not thicker by adding treatments. Have you noticed since you changed the oil that it probably even got louder???
|12-14-2011 09:32 AM|
|12-14-2011 05:20 AM|
|mike3770||Mine does it too, still runs great just sounds like a diesel when I first start her up|
|12-14-2011 12:56 AM|
|darkproximity||pretty costly to replace lifters.. the lifters are cheap, getting to them isnt :P|
|12-14-2011 12:43 AM|
|s3nt3nc3d||Mine ticked just as much on 5w-30 as it does 10w-30...10w-30 is safe down to most winter temps other than those who live where it gets super cold. I think it's just the nature of the beast...|
|12-14-2011 12:30 AM|
|JeepWrangler4x4||where do i get a crack position sensor??? i know my ticking was coming from a crack exhaust manifold, also read ur owners manual it says for colder months to run 5w30|
|12-14-2011 12:00 AM|
|tj00wrangler||It could be the crack position sensor too. I had a clicking at that was it. easy fix.|
|12-13-2011 11:55 PM|
|12-13-2011 11:46 PM|
|Blackberry||Mine has ticked during the winter months for the last 2 years. I have always used 10w30 until this fall when I used 5w30. The ticking is almost gone now.|
|12-13-2011 01:11 PM|
|Black98||I know mine has a nice tick when it first starts, makes that diesel like sound. I know mine isnt the exhaust because I already fixed my exhuast leak|
|12-13-2011 01:06 PM|
|12-13-2011 12:41 PM|
what weight of oil did you use?
The reason why the tick goes away after 15 mins is because the oil is finally hot.
when you used MMO in the oil did the tick change at all? MMO is great at thinning oil so if it got quioeter with MMO it might be because your oil is too thick.
also, when you used Lucas oil stabilizer did it make it worse? for the same reason just opposite.
chances are its the normal 4.0L tick. when you added Mobil 1 it might have cleaned out some sludge and made the tick less insulated and easier to hear.
|12-13-2011 12:35 PM|
|12-13-2011 12:28 PM|
|SinfulDragon||just let em tick|
|12-13-2011 12:24 PM|
|12-13-2011 12:17 PM|
|s3nt3nc3d||Most likely lifters...the 4.0 is notorious for it. Mine does it all the time when the weather gets cold.|
|12-13-2011 12:15 PM|
|12-13-2011 12:06 PM|
|12-13-2011 11:59 AM|
|12-13-2011 11:53 AM|
|Dextreme||What do you mean "Cracked Exhaust"?|
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