|12-14-2011 05:30 PM|
|Jowilly||Another option would be to take it to your local brake shop and have them do a bleed and flush...if it has been awhile since all the fluid has been changed now might be a good time to do that and they could use their power bleeder to flush out all the air from the system. Should only run you about 50-60 bucks|
|12-14-2011 04:09 PM|
nice write ups on those links. It illustrates my point though, the write up for bleeding goes through all 4 wheels.
|12-14-2011 04:06 PM|
Just in case you've been driving around for 13 days wondering what is going on and why it seems braking power is significantly less and the front end dives more than it did.
It is likely that little black magic valve (combination or proportioning valve) It took me like 8 months to figure it out.
Kinda funny in a Haynes or similar manual they do tell you how to bleed the system. Start right rear, left rear, right front, left front....farthest to closest from Master Cyl. But nobody says what if I only bleed the rear? Well it (an assumption) shifts the spool in the combination valve, basically blocking off the rear. For many months I had to be aware of how close I was following, stop sooner, front would lock up obviously during panic stops but everything was unusual just off. The front would accumulate brake dust like a vacuum cleaner bad dumped on them.
After a few forums and many threads I made the educated guess that if I bleed just the front, which didn't need bled, it might shift the spool back. Well it worked, just did it last night and I was driving around looking for a reason to stop it felt so nice.
|12-01-2011 10:05 AM|
Jeep Rear Drum Brake Remove - Install and Adjust
Jeep TJ Front Disc Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement
Bleeding Your Jeep Brakes
|12-01-2011 10:01 AM|
This has some good info How to Bleed Brakes - Tips on Bleeding Brakes - Popular Mechanics
but, remember to have patience with it. If your pedal feels spongy at all then bleed again and again until its nice while driving. Not sure if they mention it or not but you may need to bleed all four if you get air trapped and can't seem to get it all out. Start with the farthest from the master cylinder (right rear) then do left rear, then right front, then left front. This process bleeds the lines from longest to shortest to help prevent air being trapped.
And, DO NOT let your master cylinder run dry. If it already did, plan to bleed the whole system. When its dry, it can pull air into the top of the system and play havoc on trying to bleed. Most of the time when this happens it causes a lot of frustration because the air is trapped at the beginning of the line and we bleed from the end of the line. Thus, we would have to bleed out darn near a cup and a half of fluid to get the air out. All along refilling the master cylinder res. so it does not go dry again.
In a nutshell,
2nd person pumps up the pedal and holds pressure on it.
Release the bleeder screw and air/brake fluid will shoot out.
Tighten it back snug, then tell them to release the pedal (if they release before you snug the bleeder screw it will suck air back in the bleeder)
repeat, repeat, repeat, until the pedal is solid from the first push.
|12-01-2011 09:55 AM|
last night i turned my rear shocks around and i guess i got a little too mean. my drivers side rear brake line started leaking badly at the first threaded connector inside in from the drum (not at the drum the next one) got a new line bent up and connectors on going to put it in after work. never dont much brake work. any1 have a for dummies version of how to bleed the rears? there is a bleed valve somewhere right?