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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-13-2013 01:10 AM
Aroon
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyledupont View Post

I was wondering about doing the same thing on my 2 door 2011 what sizes did you get? or did you just get one size and cut it or did you make shift your own? I dont want it not fitting right or not having holes in the right place after I cut it if thats what I decide to do.
I don't know or I don't remember. I had the shop install them. The rackattack did it for me. Tomorrow I will measure it for you.
08-12-2013 10:53 AM
ChiefDan I did not have the length issues mentioned:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/let...in-159360.html
08-12-2013 10:19 AM
kyledupont
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aroon View Post
I got this done earlier this year. They did a great job installing it. I also have them put the track on the freedom top for $50 more, just incase I want to expand the basket in future. Here are some pictures to show.

I was wondering about doing the same thing on my 2 door 2011 what sizes did you get? or did you just get one size and cut it or did you make shift your own? I dont want it not fitting right or not having holes in the right place after I cut it if thats what I decide to do.
03-30-2013 05:12 PM
Aroon I got this done earlier this year. They did a great job installing it. I also have them put the track on the freedom top for $50 more, just incase I want to expand the basket in future. Here are some pictures to show.
09-14-2012 11:47 AM
AlexP524
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkj View Post
Hey just came across this thread searching for any info on a roof rack set up for the 2 door JK hardtop. This is the exact set up I want for my 2013 JK 2 door (on order).
A simple rack system to haul some light gear in a cargo cage and maybe some ski's.

Does anyone know if this will work on the 2 door hardtop? Seems like Yakima is a pretty good system. Does Thule or anyone else offer this similar set up? Any other suggestions? I don't like the idea of drilling but this is really the system I like and use that I'm looking for.

Thanks for any input!
I'm looking at the same thing right now. Did you ever find out anything on this? It seems like you could just shorten the tracks and make it work.

My friend mounted Yakima crossbars directly to his hardtop. He drilled and did not use the track system. They are permanently mounted and not adjustable. I asked him about his setup and he said he loves it. He has had no problems with leaking at all. He has a TJ so he said he had to measure like a bazillion times to make sure everything was exactly right since they have the more rounded corners. I'm leaning towards doing this too, but I like the idea of being able to adjust them. Anyway, if anyone has done this for a 2-door, I'd like to hear your experience. Thanks.
08-07-2012 03:52 PM
jkj Hey just came across this thread searching for any info on a roof rack set up for the 2 door JK hardtop. This is the exact set up I want for my 2013 JK 2 door (on order).
A simple rack system to haul some light gear in a cargo cage and maybe some ski's.

Does anyone know if this will work on the 2 door hardtop? Seems like Yakima is a pretty good system. Does Thule or anyone else offer this similar set up? Any other suggestions? I don't like the idea of drilling but this is really the system I like and use that I'm looking for.

Thanks for any input!
12-27-2011 07:47 AM
Oglethorpe Here are those pictures I promised last week... I did wind up grabbing the fairing from my local REI store. The 38" seems to be the best fit, and it does cut down on noise a lot.


12-23-2011 06:49 PM
Dan Lefoot
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCleanMaster View Post
I've been looking at the that rack kit but am a little leery about drilling so many holes in a new hard top. although it would be prefect for skiing and snowboarding.
Check out the Tule system. No drilling. Towers fit into the rain gutters.
We will be moving ours over from the CRV. Need new towers and bars for the 2012.
Dan
12-22-2011 03:07 PM
Oglethorpe
Quote:
Originally Posted by max-1 View Post
Just curious wouldn’t be more leak proof to install the rails on the “peaks” high ribs, instead of the “valleys” gutters?
When you get them up there you'll see that this doesn't really work out. He object is to ensure that the tracks are laying flat/flush against the roof. Regarding leaks, you get a silicone rubber glue with the kit that you just apply aggressively in the holes and around the washers to prevent any water from getting in.

I've been getting held up at work and it's dark when I get out but I'll get pictures tomorrow morning for reference.
12-22-2011 12:58 PM
max-1 Just curious wouldn’t be more leak proof to install the rails on the “peaks” high ribs, instead of the “valleys” gutters?
12-22-2011 12:56 PM
max-1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oglethorpe View Post
I came to this thread also looking for information about the roof rack fairings but noticed the trouble you had with your Yakima install. I believe for mine I went on the outermost gutter and didn't have any issues with placement or overhang. It's also worth noting that it's important that you line up your "to-be" placement so that you dodge the humps and trenches on the inside of the roof. This took some careful planning but came out well on execution. I will post some pictures later on.

That's a good tip about the inside. would dig some photos on how exactly to avoid humps and trenches. got rails under the tree and will be instaling them very soon!
Thanks
12-21-2011 12:57 PM
Oglethorpe I came to this thread also looking for information about the roof rack fairings but noticed the trouble you had with your Yakima install. I believe for mine I went on the outermost gutter and didn't have any issues with placement or overhang. It's also worth noting that it's important that you line up your "to-be" placement so that you dodge the humps and trenches on the inside of the roof. This took some careful planning but came out well on execution. I will post some pictures later on.
12-15-2011 08:40 AM
jphs12 Sorry to be blasting the hell out of my own thread here, but something else just occurred to me. Although I put the link to the Quadratec site, I actually ordered it from ORS. I had found it there first and ordered it before finding it for a similar price on Quadratec's site. I just assumed that it was the same product because it was listed as the Jeep Wrangler JK rack setup from Yakima, but it could have been different... It still looks like the best rack system for the JK.
12-14-2011 08:05 PM
max-1 Thnks a lot JPHS12, I am planing on putting a cargo box on it with skis and boots should add up to less than 100# but it is the wind factor that I am concern about!
12-14-2011 04:11 PM
MrCleanMaster thanks for the info.
12-14-2011 02:55 PM
jphs12 And another thing I just noticed is that they have it installed on top of the raised roof track/lip instead of how I did it which is just inside of it. If you do that, you will definitely want to cut the Yakima tracks because they are longer than the hardtop's raised roof track/lip...
12-14-2011 02:51 PM
jphs12 Another thing to note, if you compare the photo from Quadratec's site to my photo, their tracks are shorter. That's why I was suggesting you might want to cut the tracks back "one-hole". I didn't notice that until after I installed my rack. It would be easier than having 1/4" at the front and 1/4" at the back before the inside nuts rubbed up against the lip of the hardtop.

Yakima 8001616 - YAKIMA Hard Top Roof Track Rack for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door - Quadratec
12-14-2011 02:42 PM
jphs12 Here are some photos of the install. Two of the pictures show what I meant by "tight-fit":
The first is of the nut on the inside of the hardtop at the rear - you can see how close it was to where the contour of the top starts curving back up (1/4"?). It is just as close at the front of the hard top, so there was not much wiggle room. And that is snug up against the hardtop tracklip side to side also.
The second photo showing how close it was is of the rail end with the endcap (which isn't actually installed yet because they shorted me some hardware - I just received it yesterday and had no problems with obtaining it from Yakima - just don't make the same mistake I did and drill holes before counting your hardware... haha). So as you can see, the endcap crosses over that indented line of the hardtop... not really a problem, but just something to note. It will end up fitting properly, but you've got to have it measured out right when you start drilling.
As for loads and sturdiness of the rack, I'm very confident in it. It feels good and strong to wiggle it. I've only had my surfboard on it so far, but that weighs next to nothing. I'll be using it for my kayak and probably the miscellaneous lumber or ladder load here and there, but I wouldn't worry about loads. I'd be more worried about the strength of the hardtop with something really heavy on it than the rack system.
Hope this helps. Anyone have any idea of the fairing size we should be using (38"/44"/50")?
12-13-2011 07:07 PM
max-1
Yakima Track system

Quote:
Originally Posted by jphs12 View Post
Hey Guys,

I recently installed the Yakima Track Rack for my 2011 JK hardtop.

Yakima 8001616 - YAKIMA Hard Top Roof Track Rack for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door - Quadratec

I was wondering if anyone has done this and if so also added a fairing? Yakima has a few options in terms of sizing, but their website is not very good for sizing your vehicle. I was thinking that the 38" would be best since the tracks are about 40" apart, but figured I'd throw it out there in case anyone else had already pioneered this one? Thanks.

*For anyone thinking about installing this - it is a tight TIGHT fit because of what is going on inside of the hard top with the existing track lines. It'll fit, but it might be easier to cut one "hole" length out.*
Sorry but what do you mean by; "Tight fit becouse of what is going on insdie of the hard top with existing track lines" any photos?
Have you carried any load with it already at highway speed? everything good and strung?
Thanks.
12-13-2011 11:08 AM
jsb432 200 lbs shouldn't be a problem. I'm doing a similar setup, with Thule tracks/feet/bars (just ordered everything) and will most often have a roof box up there, with kayaks/bikes in the summer (if the HT stays on).

The Yakima and Thule track systems are pretty similar to the Garvin Track Rack system (similar tracks/feet, but with a basket), and they say that's good for 200 lbs

You'll never get an "official" answer from anyone regarding a safe weight. However, there's lots of threads with people using similar setups and they put hundreds of pounds up there, for years and lots of miles, and I haven't read one complaint of top problems (cracks, leaking, etc.).
12-13-2011 09:50 AM
Red Sahara I am definatley interested in this. Does anyone know how much weight you put up there. We do a lot of mountain biking, and we carry four bikes. Together, they wiegh about 120lbs. I would also like to be able to put a basket up there when bikes are not there to throw equipment in.
12-13-2011 09:38 AM
MrCleanMaster I've been looking at the that rack kit but am a little leery about drilling so many holes in a new hard top. although it would be prefect for skiing and snowboarding.
12-13-2011 09:35 AM
MrCleanMaster do you have any install pics ???
12-12-2011 08:31 PM
VASYLfromUKRAINE yakima rack
12-12-2011 06:37 PM
jphs12
Yakima Roof Rack Fairing?

Hey Guys,

I recently installed the Yakima Track Rack for my 2011 JK hardtop.

Yakima 8001616 - YAKIMA Hard Top Roof Track Rack for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door - Quadratec

I was wondering if anyone has done this and if so also added a fairing? Yakima has a few options in terms of sizing, but their website is not very good for sizing your vehicle. I was thinking that the 38" would be best since the tracks are about 40" apart, but figured I'd throw it out there in case anyone else had already pioneered this one? Thanks.

*For anyone thinking about installing this - it is a tight TIGHT fit because of what is going on inside of the hard top with the existing track lines. It'll fit, but it might be easier to cut one "hole" length out.*

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