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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-08-2013 03:05 PM
Thrasymachus Anyone know what end's are being used? (tie rod ends)

I have this set up and the ends lasted just over a year. Approx 20k miles. I know there is a dodge tie rod end that people use for the Rubicon Express track bar but it is 3/4'' diameter, these 1 ton steering setups are 7/8''.

Thanks!
12-19-2011 10:14 PM
Imped
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irongrave View Post
For the haters of the inverted T name me a better set up that uses TREs that I can get at any auto parts store and use stock knuckles. IMO this set up handles the road just as well as the stupid Y link set up the factory uses.
When was the last time you had a TRE fail? I'm guessing never. This point cracks me up because it's just not needed. And even so, good luck finding a parts store TRE worth what it costs. The best you'll find is Moog, which is crap. I'd much rather know that my money is well spent on ends that will last. And the last time I compared the "1 ton" TRE, the Currie shank was larger. The absolute last thing I worry about breaking are my TRE's. Second on that list is my tie rod itself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Irongrave View Post
Currie's set up is all right for mild wheeling. But I have quite a few friends that have gone to either heim or this style 1 ton joint steering after joint issues and the cost of replacement parts from currie.
I'm glad you're happy with your half-ass steering, but at least be honest. You're saying that my 4340 heat treated chromolly tie rod, of which there have been ZERO bent so far, is not up to handling the same terrain that your standard DOM tie rod can? And also, my large diameter heat treated drag link can't handle what your standard DOM drag link can? I'm not seeing much validity from your statement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irongrave View Post
For going OTK you need to move the sway bar brackets and message the coil buckets along with the track bar mount. we wanted simple upgrade from a worn out stock set up.
You make it sound like removing the stock sway bar link brackets and welding on new brackets to the inner C is an all day affair. It took MAYBE an hour. It took me 2 minutes to grind down the front of the coil buckets in order to have full range of motion lock to lock and I didn't have to do a thing to the track bar mount.

It's as stout of a steering setup as you'll find for the stock knuckle setup. Hell, you won't find a tougher tie rod, period. Moving the tie rod above the axle center line and having perfectly tight, responsive steering are just nice byproducts.

My mild wheeling.


Conclusion: I'm failing to see how weaker tube that's more prone to bending, less responsive output due to tie rod roll, and less clearance under the tie rod make for a superior setup.
12-19-2011 09:05 PM
Irongrave yeah it was teal the PO painted it a vette blue.
12-19-2011 09:02 PM
distortedtj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irongrave View Post
For going OTK you need to move the sway bar brackets and message the coil buckets along with the track bar mount. we wanted simple upgrade from a worn out stock set up.
Also you may need to shorten drag link if to long from length being designed to run under. When going OTK you shorten the distance to the pitman arm. Some drags don't have to be cut a hair.

I know what needs to be done just curious as why you went under with doing some of the work is all. Nothing wrong with what you did.

Was this on the Teal TJ ya'll picked up?
12-19-2011 08:27 PM
Irongrave For the haters of the inverted T name me a better set up that uses TREs that I can get at any auto parts store and use stock knuckles. IMO this set up handles the road just as well as the stupid Y link set up the factory uses.

There is no stabilizer because they are pointless to run. I can't stand them myself.

Currie's set up is all right for mild wheeling. But I have quite a few friends that have gone to either heim or this style 1 ton joint steering after joint issues and the cost of replacement parts from currie.

For going OTK you need to move the sway bar brackets and message the coil buckets along with the track bar mount. we wanted simple upgrade from a worn out stock set up.
12-19-2011 02:32 PM
ipleadda2nd Thanks for the write-up! I wish I saw more of these.
12-19-2011 09:33 AM
Imped Yeah it's beefy but unless it's heat treated chromolly, you'll be surprised at how easy it'll bend.
12-18-2011 09:17 PM
IndyJeepMan After researching the inverted T.

I wouldnt run it, nonetheless it looks nice and beefy but that design is known to have poor handling characteristics.
12-18-2011 08:50 PM
SirGeorgeKillian
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ageless Stranger View Post
It looks like a nice setup to me. My only question is where's the steering stabilizer?

That's what I was wondering. I wonder how the ride is without one...
12-18-2011 08:05 PM
Imped Ah, the good old "upgrade" inverted T.
12-18-2011 07:14 PM
Ageless Stranger It looks like a nice setup to me. My only question is where's the steering stabilizer?
12-18-2011 07:08 PM
Gary2 Rugged Ridge steering review - JeepForum.com
12-18-2011 03:44 PM
necromancer_tat Nice! Looks a lot like my Rugged Ridge set up.

Pretty soon there will be a bunch of haters in this thread telling you that you should've gotten the Currie steering...

Reference:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/rugg...1-a-99348.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/rugg...2-a-99821.html

Rugged Ridge steering review - JeepForum.com
12-18-2011 03:38 PM
distortedtj Since drilling out the knuckle and using inserts, why not flip the tres and run them hysteer style?
12-18-2011 02:51 PM
Ageless Stranger Nice writeup. I'd never heard of this product, only ever heard of Currie's steering upgrade. I looks nice and beefy on there.
12-18-2011 02:42 PM
Gary2 I'd give Currie's steering a good look before ya lay down that kind of money for that kind of steering set up. I have had both and in the not to distant future you will be wondering why you have play in the steering no older than it is .
12-17-2011 09:02 PM
00tj2 Will you stop showing off...... Haha, how are things irongrave..... I was thinking a lower westchester meet up would be good one night....maybe somewhere in the middle....pm me and let me know what you think....plus I want to pick your brain about some things.....including that steering set-up.....looks great....
12-17-2011 03:57 PM
Irongrave it took about 4 hours or so with 2 of us to do the install. most of that time was drilling the knuckles and doing the alignment
12-17-2011 02:34 PM
solman Nice write up. I need to get one of these kits.
12-17-2011 02:09 PM
Irongrave
TJ 1 ton steering install guide

My dad and I picked up a 1 ton steering conversion for his TJ to replace the stock tie rods and drag links.

the Kit
Serious Steering, A better 1 Ton upgrade for your Jeep. (84-01 XJ, 97-06 TJ, 93-98 ZJ)***INSERTS INCLUDED*** : Serious Offroad Products, To get there, you need to Get Serious

Came with all the TREs 3 tapered inserts for the knuckles and pitman arm.

Stock


Step 1 lock the steering wheel

Step 2 place jack stands under the axle and remove tires Now is a good time to measure from knuckle to knuckle to roughly set the new tie rod

Step 3 remove the stock steering stabilizer from the axle



Step 4 remove the 3 tie rod ends, both knuckles and from the pitman arm


Step 5 now the fun part, drilling the knuckles and pitman arm. We started by drilling them out to 5/8ths then stepped it up from there. to 7/8ths for the inserts. A corded drill and new bits are highly recommended.



Step 6. after drilling the knuckle and pitman arm out to 7/8ths install the new tie rod with the tapered inserts. keeping the same amount of thread showing on both sides. tighten down the castle nuts and install codder pins. Do not tighten the jam nuts on the TREs yet.

Step 7. Install the new drag link starting with the pitman arm side followed by the tie rod side. along with the castle nuts and codder pins. Grease all of the TREs now

Step 8. remount the wheels with the axle still on the jack stands and align the tie rod. 1/16th to 1/8th toe in. (a professional alignment may still be necessary) once its aligned remove the jack stands and have the jeep resting on its own weight again. tighten the jam nuts at this time

Step 9. Unlock and recenter the steering wheel. Adjust the drag link untill the tires are straight. then tighten the jam nuts down.

Step 10. clean up and test drive make sure it tracks well and steering wheel is where you would like it. check all joints again and make sure they are tight

Finished product

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