|Today 08:56 PM|
|Today 06:27 PM|
Just finished my Northridge bolt replacements on my 2014 JKU.
Word of CAUTION, even though the instructions say that the frame side of the trac bar in 2012 and newer has a 14mm bushing and to use the supplied 14MM (silver bolts) I found it to be true on the front but the rear trac bar the 9/16th bolt fit perfectly at both ends, just slid right in. Guess Chrysler missed the upgrade on that one? Anyway double check the fit and go with the one that fits best.
|Today 10:51 AM|
What size are your tires? And have your added a lift?
Wider tires tend to like to follow the road just the way it goes. But if you added a lift depending on how high your castor may be off and that would give you a flighty feeling in the steering.
|Today 09:37 AM|
Road Walking and Traction Control
I've replaced the pitman arm on the jeep, replaced the cam sets, put aftermarket shocks on, put a dual steering stabilizer on, put new Dick Cepek tires on and aligned it about 4 times.
The tires seem to want to follow the grooves in the road and will veer me off the road or veer into the oncoming lane of traffic. When I travel at 30-45 mph and maneuver a curve in the road, the traction control light comes on.
The steering isn't as tight as I know it should be, and I can't seem to get it corrected.
Does anyone know why it would do any of these things and what I can do to fix it?
|07-24-2014 07:48 AM|
|07-23-2014 08:41 PM|
|07-23-2014 08:37 PM|
|H3br3whamm3r81||Not a problem!|
|07-23-2014 08:36 PM|
|07-23-2014 01:59 PM|
|07-23-2014 12:55 PM|
|07-23-2014 12:25 PM|
I got this kit (Synergy) and it's top and bottom, front and rear. In other words, all the suspension bolts.
|07-23-2014 12:00 PM|
And you don't have to do the lowers either. I did it because I want my Jeep to last and I do wheel it fairly often. I already saw scoring on my bushings at 1800 miles but it was very slight. I bet lots of Jeeps are running around with scored bushings and have zero problems. It's cheap insurance and usually nothing more.
Like MTH said, we are a special group. We aren't typical. Just like you get the impression you need to drop $5000 on a new Jeep to make it off road worthy by reading this forum, you also get the impression every other Jeep is a lemon. No one runs here to brag about their bone stock sport they use to drive to grandma's house and take the kids to soccer and no one runs here to tell us their Jeep is running perfectly and their getting decent mileage. We get to hear all the problems.
IMHO, this is just a good excuse to put a lift on. I mean if you're taking all the bolts out anyway, might as well toss some taller springs in there, right?
|07-23-2014 09:13 AM|
|Barmanvarn||Well said bud.|
|07-23-2014 09:11 AM|
|07-23-2014 09:07 AM|
The online community for Wranglers is great, but be careful not to lose your perspective. Chatting on forums tends to make folks believe they're speaking with the ENTIRE ownership base, which they're not.
An overview of the forum population would make you think every wrangler owner is out there is a shadetree mechanic who wheels all weekend. Yet a look around on your morning commute will show you otherwise. Nobody joins a forum to post about how they've made no modifications, had no problems, and don't do anything particularly "jeepy" with their jeep.
Excluding those who have modified their suspensions, what percentage of 2007-2015 Wranglers do you suppose have had their bolts changed out? What percentage of those stock 2007-2015 Wranglers do you suppose have experienced death wobble?
The numbers are very, very low. Very low.
If you keep your suspension unmodified, your odds of ever experiencing death wobble (i.e., the primary reason you'd do the bolt swap being discussed here) are extraordinarily small. Not zero mind you, but very, very small. The risk of death wobble is simply part of having a solid front axle (something only the Wrangler does anymore to maintain its offroad superiority), and Chrysler's choice of bolts here wasn't the best to guard against it.
But that's not really a problem. There are undoubtedly many tens of thousands of stock JKs out there with many tens of thousands of miles that have never experienced death wobble and have never changed their bolts. Chrysler may not have used the very best bolts, but all vehicles are full of compromises and the vast (vast, vast) majority of users in this situation have no problem.
That said, you can swap out the bolts if you like. If you do so properly, death wobble will be even less likely on a stock Wrangler. And certainly if you modify your suspension by installing a lift, this would be something you'd want to add to the process.
|07-23-2014 08:43 AM|
If you stay stock, there shouldn't be anything to worry about as everything is torqued to spec at the factory.
If you start fiddling with things, then expect to fix it... or not.
|07-23-2014 07:58 AM|
|jg13jkur||Silly question, but in two weeks I'll be installing a lift. I went ahead and got the bolt kit. It came with 8 bolts (control arms), plus two more (track bar). Is the bolt kit for the front only? What about the bolts in the rear, are those fully threaded, no collar, too?|
|07-22-2014 11:13 PM|
|H3br3whamm3r81||If you want to make lemonade from lemons, just think of it as getting acquainted with your Jeep's suspension. Better yet, upgrade your suspension (i.e., install a lift) when you do it, so you knock out two birds with one stone.|
|07-22-2014 11:09 PM|
|Fr8dawg||The vast majority of lightly driven, street only, non modified Wranglers on stock wheels and tires will probably be fine with the threaded bolts... But why risk it? Dealing with death wobble at 30-40,000 miles where the average dealership mechanic will just start replacing things (other than the problematic bolts lol)... Or do it yourself off the bat and prevent future headaches.|
|07-22-2014 11:05 PM|
|CrossOps||$32k brand new for a 2015, and this? I am a little taken back at the moment.|
|07-22-2014 10:59 PM|
|07-22-2014 10:58 PM|
There's no way to know. Easy test is, pick a suspension bolt. Remove it. If the bolt is fully threaded up to the head, then in all likelihood all the other suspension bolts on control arms and track bar are also fully threaded.
I really, really doubt the Jeep engineers will change the bolt design for the remainder of the JK's production. One, it will add more expense. Two, it will almost give the owners of the previous years a reason to go to the dealer and demand the dealer replace the "defective" fully threaded bolts. After all, if there isn't a problem with fully threaded bolts, why would (hypothetically) Jeep all of a sudden change the design?
|07-22-2014 10:56 PM|
There are guys on here with bone stock under 10k miles that noticed unusual wear when changing the bolts. Cheap insurance to prevent Death Wobble!
|07-22-2014 10:49 PM|
|CrossOps||Ok, I will go ahead and state that I am very new to jeeps. But to clarify... are you saying my brand new 2015 Wrangler is going to need to do this? Brand new?|
|07-22-2014 10:16 PM|
|SteedGun||One more thing I did on mine. I put Tri-Flow on all the bushings as I put them back. The bushings will start to squeak once they dry out and it will drive you nuts trying to find the one squeaking. I know I spent almost a month hunting down some serious squeakers on my 2010. So, when I was replacing all the bolts on my 2014 I put Tri-Flow on all the bushings. Mine is quiet as a mouse.|
|07-22-2014 08:56 PM|
|T3Knical5urg3||How is this not stickied? This is far more important then some of the other stickied topics.|
|07-22-2014 05:43 PM|
|07-21-2014 08:16 PM|
|07-21-2014 06:48 PM|
|07-21-2014 06:36 PM|
I loosened all the bolts on the ground and and then put the Jeep frame on jack stands and the axle on smaller ones when we needed to support it or support it on one side or the other to let the other side down to put in springs. With the Jeep and axle on stands, we changed to bolts, one by one. Sometimes it took a little gentle persuasion to get the holes to line up. But if you do one at a time and everything is supported, it's never more than a 1/4 inch or so.
Once you're done and all the nuts are on securely, put the Jeep in the ground and go around tightening and torquing them. It ain't fun but it can be done. Don't tighten the nuts before it's on the ground. The idea of loosening the bolts and all the CA's and TB's is to let those rubber bushings relax. If you snug up the nuts in the air, you could compress the bushing and it will twist when you put the Jeep on the ground.
Now, if you want to cheat, you can leave the axles on jack stands for some of the bolts. Just too hard to get at, the rear mainly. The Jeep was sitting on the springs with just the tires off and the axles supported (one axle at a time, of course). That should sit at ride height if you position the jack stands at about ride height under the axle.
Having the extra stands was handy. If you don't have a smaller 2 ton pair, get some. If you don't have the 6 ton jacks, get those to get the Jeep higher in the air to give your self room to lower the axles.
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