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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-16-2012 11:29 PM
Originally Posted by kmanator View Post
You Decreased the wheelbase?
Thats the one problem I see. Go with ibuildembigs advice and get that shaft lengthened hes only done to many soas to count so Id trust him. Get the axle pushed back to centered in the wheel well and your in business
01-16-2012 09:45 PM
RednekYJ Nice.....That will work for awhile, maybe longer depending on how nice you are to it.
01-16-2012 08:02 PM
richh789 Then cut a piece of c channel to fit around axle. The cut a piece of spring shackle for a trailer down and got them welded together ( thanks to mike at mieneke for the welding).

This then was welded to the bottom of the axle, kills clearance, but no lower than rear or shock mts. When I get more time I'm gonna mount my link from the mount to the trans mount. If I had a spare shackle I would like to make the front articulate, but I dont
01-16-2012 07:54 PM
richh789 Took part of a three point hitch and cut it in half (19.99 at tractor supply) put 1" black pipe on inside and aluminized tubing on the outside
01-16-2012 08:16 AM
richh789 Gonna build one today with the joints from three point hitch, just cause I am on a limited budget. Gonna make it kinda like a ladder bar, although that wishbone design sure looks pretty sweet. If the design works well then when it wears out I'll build one from heim joints. I'll post some pictures later today.
01-15-2012 09:41 AM
Ibuildembig A tractor joint isn't really a "heim" joint per say....they are cheap and big, but also wear out really fast.
01-15-2012 02:12 AM
RednekYJ Drive it like that as long as you like. Just don't rape it. If you get to heavy on the skinny pedal it may drop the drive shaft and that thing will take stuff out, mainly exhaust and brake lines. As for the joints for the bar you are going to make. You say tractor joints so I assume you mean Heim joints. That is actually the most preferred and strongest way you can go.....As it goes when building/fabbing anything that will require strength/stability. Remember this, triangles are your friend.
01-14-2012 07:13 PM
richh789 I was about to right that I get vibration during acceleration in first n second, then notice the post about axle wrap. Is it safe to drive for a few days? Gonna fabricate something soon, just have to find a design to copy. Anyone have a good pic? What's the main purpose? Is it stopping the axle from rotating?

At first I thought it was the drive line angle, but it doesn't do it in 4*4 . Was thinking of using joints for a tractor three point hitch ? Suggestions?
01-14-2012 07:06 PM
richh789 Installed new braided lines and metal lines. Also new rotors and front n rear brakes. I think I put pads on the wrong sides ( didn't think it made a diff)

At first the right front brake hung up. After switching them it felt OK.
01-13-2012 09:25 PM
RednekYJ What are you going to do about the axle wrap you are going to have???? I've been here and done this and you WILL have axle wrap. You will know you have it because of the vibration during acceleration. Axle wrap is caused by the stock springs being worn and flexxy. A 3rd link is a must in a SOA with stock springs.
01-13-2012 08:34 PM
richh789 Its only 1" lol, not 6. Tomarro running new metal front brake lines and braided lines. Then gonna try it and let you know. Not really a big deal to move it if it suks
01-12-2012 05:15 PM
Jeffro Martin Jackson Def would not do that. Jeeps wheelbase is small enough to begin with.
01-12-2012 03:35 PM
adurbin Yeah, you definitely don't want to shorten the wheelbase at all by having the tires off center.
01-11-2012 11:00 PM
kmanator You Decreased the wheelbase?
01-11-2012 10:46 PM
richh789 Waiting on front brakes, shocks, and welding on trans support. Also getting drop track bar mt for front. What size is that torks? T 55? Bigger than t50, cause that's all I have

Tires not centered doesn't really bother me, gonna change flairs and cut front out more. Driveshaft is in ¼" farther than stock. On center hole it was ½" farther out than stock. Any issue with moving forward besides the odd looking placement of tire in wheel well?
Can't wait to try it. Hopefully no big issues
01-10-2012 12:00 PM
Ibuildembig I'd put the rear springs back in the center hole and hope it centers your tire in the opening. 98 percent of the time on a SOA you have to have the rear shaft lengthened.
01-10-2012 01:59 AM
shayno looking foward to see how this works out for you. A SOA is on my long list!
01-09-2012 10:25 PM
richh789 Ordered shocks today, also switched the springs to the rearhole in perch,moving the axle forward. Was just worried about drive shaft not being in far enuf. Installed new brakes too. As soon as transfer case drop gets welded I'll let UK now whatprobs I have
01-08-2012 08:00 PM
richh789 .
01-08-2012 07:54 PM
richh789 I then put rear wheels on. Front axle is on jack stands because I'm waiting on rotors, but
tires are basically on he ground. Then I used a jack to rotate axel upwards. I basically pointed it at transfer case. Drive shaft seems like it isn't far enuf in, so before I have perches welded, I'm gonna change alignment pin to the front hole.

This is the amount of clearence now, and basically how it will look done. Gonna bring trailer home from work and haul it to my friends to have perches and new transfer case mount welded.

Almost forgot to add that I welded nuts to the top of c channel to recieve the bolt for transfer case mount
01-08-2012 07:42 PM
richh789 Then I tacked them in place, I'm going to have someone else weld it tomorrow.
01-08-2012 07:37 PM
richh789 I had to fabricate some drop mounts for transfer case , because when I went to remove the bolts, the nuts that are welding in the frame broke loose. I took a channel that was 1 inch thick, and I drilled it to match the frame. It was really hard to drill, I ended up using several sizes of drill bits.
01-08-2012 07:31 PM
richh789 I made sure that I flipped the alignment pins on the leaf springs
01-08-2012 07:27 PM
richh789 Installed new brake line, and cut off track bar mount being it isn't used
01-08-2012 09:55 AM
Originally Posted by richh789 View Post
This is the little tool that would have saved me a few hours. Advance rented an entire set for free.
That is the style puller I broke and then bent another
01-08-2012 09:05 AM
richh789 I put the axle on jack stand, changed fluid, and set the perches on bottom to zero degrees with angle finder. I held axle from rotating by sticking a jack under drag link. New perches were set to zero also. I set them both to zero so the stearing geometry stays the same.

If you rotate it upwards, the position of baljoints above each other changes, wich prob would really throw things off.

Once both sides were welded (thanks to my friend dean)I shot them with some paint. I would have liked to clean the axle and paint the entire thing. Unfortunetly I'm way to lazy, and couldn't be bothered. This yj is no show truck.

Please keep in mind that I have never done this before, nor am a mechanic. I build houses, lol. I'm also doing this in the driveway with basic hand tools, have no air tools. Just want the average Joe with some mech knowledge to know that he can do an soa on his (or her) jeep. Nor am I saying that's it is gonna work perfectly. When I'm done I will let u guys know what probs I have n how I fixed them
01-08-2012 08:44 AM
richh789 This pic shows the side of the pumpkin, next to the stock perch. I ground down the edge of pumpkin to make room for the u bolt to fit now that they face up
01-08-2012 08:35 AM
richh789 This is the little tool that would have saved me a few hours. Advance rented an entire set for free.
01-08-2012 08:32 AM
richh789 Removed bottom shock bolt and cut top one with cutoff wheel. Can't use them anyway
01-08-2012 08:29 AM
removed brakes

Hung caliper using scrap wire
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