|02-14-2012 03:57 PM|
OBA Jeep TJ - YouTube
|02-10-2012 08:53 PM|
Get those pictures soon. Maybe someday I'll make another ride and see it in person.
|01-29-2012 09:50 PM|
Its alive! I spent all day running the cab wires, pressure line to the gauge, cutting up the upper part of my bezel to run the wires up.
Had one lil snafu, first go around everything worked BUT the compressor engaging. I had the ground from the compressor going to the wrong side of the relay. the when I fixed it as soon as i hit the switch i blew the inline fuse. I went back and realized I had the wires going to the wrong parts of the relay entirely.
Lucky I had switched to to nice relay plug and relay that I got from a Cadillac (they color code all the housings and relays to amperage, and put the diagram on the top of the relay, and you can dissemble the housing and swap wires real easy, so I swap the wires into the right spot, and presto! clutch in, clutch out!
I appreciate everyone's input and advice, it helped ease the fear of melting some wires. (which i did stop and look for at every major step of the way!, lol)
Pictures forth coming in the next few days
|01-29-2012 12:15 PM|
|01-29-2012 12:12 PM|
The way you have it wired, the red led will light up anytime parklights are on, and the green led will be on anytime the system is on, regardless of the compressor being engaged or not (via the pressure switch).
If you want the green led to light only when the compressor is active, you will need to connect the #6 pin to the relay side of the pressure switch (so that it only grounds when the pressure switch is grounded.)
I would agree with isolating the gauge lighting to vehicle lighting and not tied into the compressor control circuit.
EDIT: After looking at the diagram again, I would suggest pulling power going to the in-cab switch on pin #2 to a key on power source and not teed off of the compressor power wire, to keep it from killing the battery with the key off..in case you were to forget and leave the power on to the system..
|01-27-2012 12:44 PM|
|01-27-2012 12:37 PM|
I realize my drawing is a bit goofy, I know just enought to hurt myself!
I am only trying to make my 12V- relay work because most of all that is hard wired and buttoned up, only the leads to the compressor and the switch are still needing to be run.
Also, switch is rated for 20A @ 12V. and the compressor wired for 20A usually from the factory
|01-27-2012 12:35 PM|
I did realize after i posted the wiring diagram I had the drawing wrong, I had redrawn it from the original and flipped a few wires around by the relay. Here is an updated diagram, with the actual switch (got the email from the company) and a copy of the way the switch works. And my relay is a 12V 30A relay.
I have forgone the gauge wiring being part of this circuit. Its just going to be wired independently so it lights all the time with key on, like designed
|01-27-2012 12:09 PM|
|TheTJRod||Was drawing you up a diagram but my work lost power. Waiting for the boss to get back from work to see if we're going home.|
|01-27-2012 11:53 AM|
Just relized if your switch LED shares the power going through the switch(doesn't have it's own power wire) You will be running the LED and the relay coil in a series. I would probably still work but the LED would probably be dim and the relay would probably turn on slower. You should run power to the switch first.
This is generally better in the long run as you could share that same wire with any other switches you would add later.
|01-27-2012 10:01 AM|
Your relay should be wired differently
87-Compressor+(-Grounded on frame)
86-ACC(Power only when key in ACC)
(86 and 85 can or cannot be interchanged depending on what type of relay you use, meaning if it has a protecting diode or not)
Power from running lights|Ground to frame
To Pressure switch
Shares + with Switch
Grounded on Frame
Don't run a 12v to the compressor feed the power wire through the relay. Also put on an appropriately sized fuse on the 12v constant coming from the battery to the relay.
|01-27-2012 09:44 AM|
|TheTJRod||After another thought, running a ground wire may be easier.|
|01-27-2012 09:41 AM|
|Kevbz||I appreciate it...and yep...parking lights vs. headlights is a good idea, I think I was thinking that but...not thinking that....lol|
|01-27-2012 09:39 AM|
I can help you with the wiring. But may I make two suggestions.
Instead of running the illumination with the headlights why not illuminate with the running lights. Some spotters don't like it when you have headlights on blinding them when they are trying to help you. Also it will sync more as all your interior gauges light up with the running light switch.
The other is running a power wire to the switch. It is just so much easier because you would have to run a power wire anyway to run the LEDs.
Give me a minute or two to work out the schematic. I am about to run a OBA system too so this will be good practice.
|01-27-2012 09:11 AM|
A little bit of wiring advice...I'm stumped
I have been wiring up a homemade (custom) OBA system and am almost there, just a few last connections to make it function like I want. I have tested the system as it sits but I am adding a switch and lighted mechanical gauge and am not sure how to do it.
The diagram I attached will help but I will kinda plain english spell it out. I am using a ground controlled relay set-up. The system has a pressure sensor at the tank, and will have a switch in the cab, next to a gauge that not only lights up, but has a 7 color changeable dial and dimming feature.
In my diagram I was going to place the switch in the "harness" (I use the term loosely here. lol) between the pressure switch and the relay.
what has me screwed up is I had advice to run a ground relay instead of a powered relay (not sure if I am using the right terminology there). but in doing so I loose all functionality of the dual lighted switch, and color memory function of the gauge. I THINK...
Heres what I would like the system to do.
1) In cab switch controls the overall function of the system. Switch is off, no compressor function, switch is on, compressor functions until pressure switch opens.
2) The Switch has two LED's, one top and one on bottom. Top LED illuminates ON with the headlamps for night time light up, bottom LED illuminates ON when switch is thrown and system is actively running compressor. I'm a bit sketchy about this part, I am not sure if the LED will stay ON no matter what the compressor is doing, because the switch is on, or if while the switch is in the ON position the LED will go on and off based off of the position of the pressure switch at the tank. The switch info also says it has five terminals, each LED is independently grounded. Its from OTRATTW. Here's what I got from the website. The switch is enroute but I want to run the wires now, and I am waiting on a email back about what each terminal does on the switch. I labeled them 1-5 for now, assuming 1-2 are upper LED, 4-5 are lower LED, and 3 is ?????
Product ID: V1D1GHCB-PZCAC-A
Manufacturer: Carling Technologies
V-series Contura V sealed rocker switch, AIR COMPRESSOR
V1D1FTHB- SPST OFF/ON - Independently wired upper super bright red LED. Green lower LED is ON when the switch is turned ON. Each LED has it's own ground terminal. Five terminal switch with no plastic barriers.
3) In cab gauge is mechanical so only issue is with illumination. It needs 12V+ constant to retain the memory of what color you like the gauge face, it needs 12V+ HOT ON KEY, to illuminate the face, and 12V+ HOT ON WITH HEADLIGHTS to dim the face 50% for night time driving.
Should this gauge be wired into the switch at all?
Should I put the 12V+ HOT ON KEY from the gauge inline with the switches top illumination ON with headlights. Basically making the gauges HOT ON KEY actually HOT ON headlight from the switch. So it only lights up when the headlights are on, along with the switch. OR do I omit the HOT ON KEY from the gauge and just hook up the HOT ON HEADLIGHT inline with the HOT ON HEADLIGHT going to the switch, would that make it only light up with the headlights. From a quick test last night, I don't think it will light up without the 12v+ KEY hooked up, even if you hook up 12V+ HEADLIGHT, not sure how the dimming feature works because the circuitry is internal. I don't know that I want it on all the time while driving but will take what I can get suggestion wise. Illuminated at night with headlights would be ok.
How do I ever wire all of this so everything functions like it should, when I am only in essence breaking the connection with the ground to the relay with the switch. Do I need to move the switch over to the 12V+ side? Won't I in essence have to rewire my whole relay then since it was a ground side relay. Do I just need to add an relay on the power side to control the illumination aspect of it?
It was also suggested to make the system 12V+ HOT ON KEY from the battery, instead of CONSTANT like it is now to eliminate the chance of a dead battery because the switch was left on when the jeep was parked over night. I am not concerned about that problem but can change it if it helps the situation as a whole. Oh, and I guess i need to throw a 20A inline fuse going to the compressor before it tee's off to the relay?
I know I sporadically asked a ton of questions through out this whole post, sorry about that...
AND....I truly appreciate any advice you can give me....short of saying start over from scratch because I'll just throw it in the dumpster!! all connections are cut to length, soldered, heat shrinked, have terminal ends, inside wire loom and zip tied except for the wires still to be run to the switch and gauge. And I aint doing that all over again!