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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-11-2014 02:38 PM
Show Killer Did most of this conversion yesterday. I got all the LCA bolts done and 1 of the rear track bar bolts done before i couldn't stand the heat any more. It got about 100* here in San Antonio yesterday. I am gonna finish the last 3 bolts tomorrow morning before it gets super hot again.

From what i could tell my stock bolts hadn't done much/any damage to date. Mine is an '09 JKUR with 63,400 on the clock.

Phil
09-11-2014 08:17 AM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by El of Eye View Post
That's great! Thank you for all of the answers about the strength of the bolts. I was a little worried about how much torque they could handle because the bolts in the northridge kit are grade 8 and the factory bolts they replaced are a 10.9 grade.
Metric 10.9 is the rough equivalent to SAE grade 8.
09-11-2014 08:14 AM
El of Eye That's great! Thank you for all of the answers about the strength of the bolts. I was a little worried about how much torque they could handle because the bolts in the northridge kit are grade 8 and the factory bolts they replaced are a 10.9 grade.
09-10-2014 06:13 PM
flyfishnevada Grade 8 9/16-18 bolts can handle way more than 130. Maybe upwards of 200 ft-lbs.
09-10-2014 04:56 PM
F1LOCO Synergy's instructions are to torque them at 130 - at least the LCA's and TB's.
09-09-2014 08:14 AM
planman
Quote:
Originally Posted by El of Eye View Post
One more thing. I was wondering how much torque the northridge grade 8 bolts can handle. I torqued them to 130 lbs. I also have a Harbor Freight torque wrench and I realize they may by off + or - 4%. THat means I could have 135 lbs. on these bolts. I was thinking that I was playing it safe setting the wrench to 130 but now I worry about the bolts being too stressed and a bolt head flying off. I have had that happen on real cheap bolts. Am I being paranoid or should I back off the bolts?
They can handle 130.
09-08-2014 05:10 PM
Torenator Thanks for posting this, I have a '15 on order and will be changing out these bots asap.

I dealt with a nearly undiagnosable death wobble in my current TJ for the longest time. I actually just got good at accelerating through it before I finally vanquished it.

Death wobble sucks. I feel like they should make bumper stickers that say that, kind of like 'cancer sucks' lol. Not to make light of cancer of course, it sucks way more than death wobble, but you know what I mean.
09-08-2014 04:22 PM
CrossOps
Quote:
Originally Posted by TerraSol View Post
on mine, the big Synergy kit (8050-02) went in when the lift went in... 11 miles on the odometer
That Synergy kit is whats going on tomorrow morning with my lift as well. Should be the same one, pic is here: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/cr...os-849170.html
09-08-2014 03:31 PM
El of Eye One more thing. I was wondering how much torque the northridge grade 8 bolts can handle. I torqued them to 130 lbs. I also have a Harbor Freight torque wrench and I realize they may by off + or - 4%. THat means I could have 135 lbs. on these bolts. I was thinking that I was playing it safe setting the wrench to 130 but now I worry about the bolts being too stressed and a bolt head flying off. I have had that happen on real cheap bolts.
Am I being paranoid or should I back off the bolts?
09-08-2014 01:58 PM
El of Eye
Quote:
Originally Posted by All Terrain JK View Post
That's what I did.

Thanks. I'll do the same. I wasn't sure if the slightly larger washer would interfere with torque specs or something else like making the bolt a little sloppy.
09-08-2014 01:51 PM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by El of Eye View Post
The northridge kit only comes with 1 washer for the 14 mm track bolt. I will use that on the nut side. Will it hurt anything if I use one of the 9/16 washers for the bolt side? Will the 9/16 washer being slightly larger be ok?
That's what I did.
09-08-2014 01:48 PM
El of Eye The northridge kit only comes with 1 washer for the 14 mm track bolt. I will use that on the nut side. Will it hurt anything if I use one of the 9/16 washers for the bolt side? Will the 9/16 washer being slightly larger be ok?
08-29-2014 07:14 AM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Willys View Post
Is this still an issue on the 2014's and 2015's?
Yes. I replaced all the stock CA/TB bolts in my '15 and wife's '14 last weekend.
08-28-2014 11:58 PM
Lithium Lotus Just a heads up. I installed the larger bolts last year or the year before, I forget. I live in Ohio and drive my Jeep in the winter. I had a JKS trackbar strengthening bracket installed earlier this week on the axle side. That meant having to remove my JKS front trackbar. Well the bolt got completely seized in the metal sleeve inside of the trackbar bushing. It was so tight that the impact gun was turning the bushing inside of the joint. The bolt had to be cut out and the bushing replaced. I'm not sure if I want to even try to remove one of my JKS control arms.
08-26-2014 06:24 AM
TerraSol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Willys View Post
Is this still an issue on the 2014's and 2015's?
2014 yes, no idea for 2015 models. My thoughts, this will always be an issue, because they will not change anything unless it will create a major technical problem resulting in recalls. This has not been the case for many years now, so why should it change now... on mine, the big Synergy kit (8050-02) went in when the lift went in... 11 miles on the odometer
08-25-2014 03:46 PM
Black Willys Is this still an issue on the 2014's and 2015's?
08-04-2014 11:13 PM
Kronk
Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post

Correct. Preferred, but not a required upgrade for people who properly maintain their vehicle.

The primary problem with the smaller stock bolts happens when they are not routinely torqued to spec as part of normal maintenance. The damage to the bracket holes and bushings is worse with the smaller bolts.
Thanks by the way! I used three of your videos as reference to inspect the front end connections and swap out the bolts.
08-04-2014 09:58 PM
Dr. Evil No off roading here. kjeeper recommended FOR ME, I just replace the front TB bolts. $6 locally and I was done.
08-04-2014 09:49 PM
flyfishnevada
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kronk View Post
Replaced my front bolts this evening. The OEM bolts seemed to be tight and there was very little damage to the bushings. I had death wobble at 30K. It was bad ball joints but I bought the NR kit as an extra precaution. As long as the bolts are Kept torqued to spec it doesn't seem like its a necessary upgrade, but I feel better for it anyway.
Probably right but many of us install lifts and if you're going to loosen and re-torque all those bolts during the lift, why not replace them for $50? If you mall crawl, probably not a big deal but the more you go off road and the more severe that service, the more likely you'll see issues. When it comes down to it it's cheap insurance and not much work if you're installing a lift/leveling kit anyway.
08-04-2014 07:49 PM
planman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kronk View Post
Replaced my front bolts this evening. The OEM bolts seemed to be tight and there was very little damage to the bushings. I had death wobble at 30K. It was bad ball joints but I bought the NR kit as an extra precaution. As long as the bolts are Kept torqued to spec it doesn't seem like its a necessary upgrade, but I feel better for it anyway.
Correct. Preferred, but not a required upgrade for people who properly maintain their vehicle.

The primary problem with the smaller stock bolts happens when they are not routinely torqued to spec as part of normal maintenance. The damage to the bracket holes and bushings is worse with the smaller bolts.
08-02-2014 11:43 PM
Kronk Replaced my front bolts this evening. The OEM bolts seemed to be tight and there was very little damage to the bushings. I had death wobble at 30K. It was bad ball joints but I bought the NR kit as an extra precaution. As long as the bolts are Kept torqued to spec it doesn't seem like its a necessary upgrade, but I feel better for it anyway.
08-01-2014 01:55 PM
Jedi9 I'm sure it's been mentioned at least once but I tried sourcing the bolts from Grainger, Fastenol, and Lowes, and Northridge beats them all for pricing.
07-31-2014 08:56 PM
CrossOps
Quote:
Originally Posted by enikail523 View Post
I've replaced the pitman arm on the jeep, replaced the cam sets, put aftermarket shocks on, put a dual steering stabilizer on, put new Dick Cepek tires on and aligned it about 4 times.
WOW. I wonder what is going on with it.
07-31-2014 06:27 PM
Menerdari Just finished my Northridge bolt replacements on my 2014 JKU.
Word of CAUTION, even though the instructions say that the frame side of the trac bar in 2012 and newer has a 14mm bushing and to use the supplied 14MM (silver bolts) I found it to be true on the front but the rear trac bar the 9/16th bolt fit perfectly at both ends, just slid right in. Guess Chrysler missed the upgrade on that one? Anyway double check the fit and go with the one that fits best.
07-31-2014 10:51 AM
ttrap84 What size are your tires? And have your added a lift?
Wider tires tend to like to follow the road just the way it goes. But if you added a lift depending on how high your castor may be off and that would give you a flighty feeling in the steering.
07-31-2014 09:37 AM
enikail523
Road Walking and Traction Control

I've replaced the pitman arm on the jeep, replaced the cam sets, put aftermarket shocks on, put a dual steering stabilizer on, put new Dick Cepek tires on and aligned it about 4 times.

The tires seem to want to follow the grooves in the road and will veer me off the road or veer into the oncoming lane of traffic. When I travel at 30-45 mph and maneuver a curve in the road, the traction control light comes on.

The steering isn't as tight as I know it should be, and I can't seem to get it corrected.

Does anyone know why it would do any of these things and what I can do to fix it?
07-24-2014 07:48 AM
SilverSahara
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishnevada View Post
IMHO, this is just a good excuse to put a lift on. I mean if you're taking all the bolts out anyway, might as well toss some taller springs in there, right?
That's when I did mine
07-23-2014 08:41 PM
jg13jkur
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishnevada View Post
If you got the Northridge 4x4 kit or the Synergy lower kit, you'll do the front and rear track bars and front and rear lower control arms. The uppers, from what I understand, don't see the stresses the lowers do. You can do the uppers, Synergy sells a kit that will do all of them, but you don't have too.

And you don't have to do the lowers either. I did it because I want my Jeep to last and I do wheel it fairly often. I already saw scoring on my bushings at 1800 miles but it was very slight. I bet lots of Jeeps are running around with scored bushings and have zero problems. It's cheap insurance and usually nothing more.

Like MTH said, we are a special group. We aren't typical. Just like you get the impression you need to drop $5000 on a new Jeep to make it off road worthy by reading this forum, you also get the impression every other Jeep is a lemon. No one runs here to brag about their bone stock sport they use to drive to grandma's house and take the kids to soccer and no one runs here to tell us their Jeep is running perfectly and their getting decent mileage. We get to hear all the problems.

IMHO, this is just a good excuse to put a lift on. I mean if you're taking all the bolts out anyway, might as well toss some taller springs in there, right?
I wholeheartedly agree! I don't feel like having my brand new RK control arms screwed up because of fully threaded bolts! (See what I did there?! Lol!)
07-23-2014 08:37 PM
H3br3wHamm3r81 Not a problem!
07-23-2014 08:36 PM
jg13jkur
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3br3whamm3r81 View Post
Yeah, I guess it really does pay to read the freaking instructions. Lol! I didn't see that on their site.
Thanks!!
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