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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 01:55 PM
Jedi9 I'm sure it's been mentioned at least once but I tried sourcing the bolts from Grainger, Fastenol, and Lowes, and Northridge beats them all for pricing.
Yesterday 08:56 PM
CrossOps
Quote:
Originally Posted by enikail523 View Post
I've replaced the pitman arm on the jeep, replaced the cam sets, put aftermarket shocks on, put a dual steering stabilizer on, put new Dick Cepek tires on and aligned it about 4 times.
WOW. I wonder what is going on with it.
Yesterday 06:27 PM
Menerdari Just finished my Northridge bolt replacements on my 2014 JKU.
Word of CAUTION, even though the instructions say that the frame side of the trac bar in 2012 and newer has a 14mm bushing and to use the supplied 14MM (silver bolts) I found it to be true on the front but the rear trac bar the 9/16th bolt fit perfectly at both ends, just slid right in. Guess Chrysler missed the upgrade on that one? Anyway double check the fit and go with the one that fits best.
Yesterday 10:51 AM
ttrap84 What size are your tires? And have your added a lift?
Wider tires tend to like to follow the road just the way it goes. But if you added a lift depending on how high your castor may be off and that would give you a flighty feeling in the steering.
Yesterday 09:37 AM
enikail523
Road Walking and Traction Control

I've replaced the pitman arm on the jeep, replaced the cam sets, put aftermarket shocks on, put a dual steering stabilizer on, put new Dick Cepek tires on and aligned it about 4 times.

The tires seem to want to follow the grooves in the road and will veer me off the road or veer into the oncoming lane of traffic. When I travel at 30-45 mph and maneuver a curve in the road, the traction control light comes on.

The steering isn't as tight as I know it should be, and I can't seem to get it corrected.

Does anyone know why it would do any of these things and what I can do to fix it?
07-24-2014 07:48 AM
SilverSahara
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishnevada View Post
IMHO, this is just a good excuse to put a lift on. I mean if you're taking all the bolts out anyway, might as well toss some taller springs in there, right?
That's when I did mine
07-23-2014 08:41 PM
jg13jkur
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishnevada View Post
If you got the Northridge 4x4 kit or the Synergy lower kit, you'll do the front and rear track bars and front and rear lower control arms. The uppers, from what I understand, don't see the stresses the lowers do. You can do the uppers, Synergy sells a kit that will do all of them, but you don't have too.

And you don't have to do the lowers either. I did it because I want my Jeep to last and I do wheel it fairly often. I already saw scoring on my bushings at 1800 miles but it was very slight. I bet lots of Jeeps are running around with scored bushings and have zero problems. It's cheap insurance and usually nothing more.

Like MTH said, we are a special group. We aren't typical. Just like you get the impression you need to drop $5000 on a new Jeep to make it off road worthy by reading this forum, you also get the impression every other Jeep is a lemon. No one runs here to brag about their bone stock sport they use to drive to grandma's house and take the kids to soccer and no one runs here to tell us their Jeep is running perfectly and their getting decent mileage. We get to hear all the problems.

IMHO, this is just a good excuse to put a lift on. I mean if you're taking all the bolts out anyway, might as well toss some taller springs in there, right?
I wholeheartedly agree! I don't feel like having my brand new RK control arms screwed up because of fully threaded bolts! (See what I did there?! Lol!)
07-23-2014 08:37 PM
H3br3whamm3r81 Not a problem!
07-23-2014 08:36 PM
jg13jkur
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3br3whamm3r81 View Post
Yeah, I guess it really does pay to read the freaking instructions. Lol! I didn't see that on their site.
Thanks!!
07-23-2014 01:59 PM
H3br3whamm3r81
Quote:
Originally Posted by jg13jkur View Post
I got the Northridge kit.
See this:
http://northridge4x4.com/store/media...8_Bolt_Kit.pdf
07-23-2014 12:55 PM
jg13jkur
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3br3whamm3r81 View Post
Not sure what kit you got. Who did you buy it from, and what's the part number?

I got this kit (Synergy) and it's top and bottom, front and rear. In other words, all the suspension bolts.
I got the Northridge kit.
07-23-2014 12:25 PM
H3br3whamm3r81
Quote:
Originally Posted by jg13jkur View Post
Silly question, but in two weeks I'll be installing a lift. I went ahead and got the bolt kit. It came with 8 bolts (control arms), plus two more (track bar). Is the bolt kit for the front only? What about the bolts in the rear, are those fully threaded, no collar, too?
Not sure what kit you got. Who did you buy it from, and what's the part number?

I got this kit (Synergy) and it's top and bottom, front and rear. In other words, all the suspension bolts.
07-23-2014 12:00 PM
flyfishnevada
Quote:
Originally Posted by jg13jkur View Post
Silly question, but in two weeks I'll be installing a lift. I went ahead and got the bolt kit. It came with 8 bolts (control arms), plus two more (track bar). Is the bolt kit for the front only? What about the bolts in the rear, are those fully threaded, no collar, too?
If you got the Northridge 4x4 kit or the Synergy lower kit, you'll do the front and rear track bars and front and rear lower control arms. The uppers, from what I understand, don't see the stresses the lowers do. You can do the uppers, Synergy sells a kit that will do all of them, but you don't have too.

And you don't have to do the lowers either. I did it because I want my Jeep to last and I do wheel it fairly often. I already saw scoring on my bushings at 1800 miles but it was very slight. I bet lots of Jeeps are running around with scored bushings and have zero problems. It's cheap insurance and usually nothing more.

Like MTH said, we are a special group. We aren't typical. Just like you get the impression you need to drop $5000 on a new Jeep to make it off road worthy by reading this forum, you also get the impression every other Jeep is a lemon. No one runs here to brag about their bone stock sport they use to drive to grandma's house and take the kids to soccer and no one runs here to tell us their Jeep is running perfectly and their getting decent mileage. We get to hear all the problems.

IMHO, this is just a good excuse to put a lift on. I mean if you're taking all the bolts out anyway, might as well toss some taller springs in there, right?
07-23-2014 09:13 AM
Barmanvarn Well said bud.
07-23-2014 09:11 AM
CrossOps Thanks brother.
07-23-2014 09:07 AM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrossOps View Post
Ok, I will go ahead and state that I am very new to jeeps. But to clarify... are you saying my brand new 2015 Wrangler is going to need to do this? Brand new?
Of course not.

The online community for Wranglers is great, but be careful not to lose your perspective. Chatting on forums tends to make folks believe they're speaking with the ENTIRE ownership base, which they're not.

An overview of the forum population would make you think every wrangler owner is out there is a shadetree mechanic who wheels all weekend. Yet a look around on your morning commute will show you otherwise. Nobody joins a forum to post about how they've made no modifications, had no problems, and don't do anything particularly "jeepy" with their jeep.

Excluding those who have modified their suspensions, what percentage of 2007-2015 Wranglers do you suppose have had their bolts changed out? What percentage of those stock 2007-2015 Wranglers do you suppose have experienced death wobble?

The numbers are very, very low. Very low.

If you keep your suspension unmodified, your odds of ever experiencing death wobble (i.e., the primary reason you'd do the bolt swap being discussed here) are extraordinarily small. Not zero mind you, but very, very small. The risk of death wobble is simply part of having a solid front axle (something only the Wrangler does anymore to maintain its offroad superiority), and Chrysler's choice of bolts here wasn't the best to guard against it.

But that's not really a problem. There are undoubtedly many tens of thousands of stock JKs out there with many tens of thousands of miles that have never experienced death wobble and have never changed their bolts. Chrysler may not have used the very best bolts, but all vehicles are full of compromises and the vast (vast, vast) majority of users in this situation have no problem.

That said, you can swap out the bolts if you like. If you do so properly, death wobble will be even less likely on a stock Wrangler. And certainly if you modify your suspension by installing a lift, this would be something you'd want to add to the process.
07-23-2014 08:43 AM
membrain
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrossOps View Post
$32k brand new for a 2015, and this? I am a little taken back at the moment.
Your fenders are made outta plastic and your roof outta fiberglass...

If you stay stock, there shouldn't be anything to worry about as everything is torqued to spec at the factory.

If you start fiddling with things, then expect to fix it... or not.
07-23-2014 07:58 AM
jg13jkur Silly question, but in two weeks I'll be installing a lift. I went ahead and got the bolt kit. It came with 8 bolts (control arms), plus two more (track bar). Is the bolt kit for the front only? What about the bolts in the rear, are those fully threaded, no collar, too?
07-22-2014 11:13 PM
H3br3whamm3r81 If you want to make lemonade from lemons, just think of it as getting acquainted with your Jeep's suspension. Better yet, upgrade your suspension (i.e., install a lift) when you do it, so you knock out two birds with one stone.
07-22-2014 11:09 PM
Fr8dawg The vast majority of lightly driven, street only, non modified Wranglers on stock wheels and tires will probably be fine with the threaded bolts... But why risk it? Dealing with death wobble at 30-40,000 miles where the average dealership mechanic will just start replacing things (other than the problematic bolts lol)... Or do it yourself off the bat and prevent future headaches.
07-22-2014 11:05 PM
CrossOps $32k brand new for a 2015, and this? I am a little taken back at the moment.
07-22-2014 10:59 PM
Fr8dawg
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrossOps View Post
Ok, I will go ahead and state that I am very new to jeeps. But to clarify... are you saying my brand new 2015 Wrangler is going to need to do this? Brand new?
Thats what Im sayin! Its amazing such a huge design flaw like this was never corrected at the factory... Oh well, bolts are relatively cheap and will be going on someday (whenever rock krawler suspension sends my dang coils lol)
07-22-2014 10:58 PM
H3br3whamm3r81 There's no way to know. Easy test is, pick a suspension bolt. Remove it. If the bolt is fully threaded up to the head, then in all likelihood all the other suspension bolts on control arms and track bar are also fully threaded.

I really, really doubt the Jeep engineers will change the bolt design for the remainder of the JK's production. One, it will add more expense. Two, it will almost give the owners of the previous years a reason to go to the dealer and demand the dealer replace the "defective" fully threaded bolts. After all, if there isn't a problem with fully threaded bolts, why would (hypothetically) Jeep all of a sudden change the design?
07-22-2014 10:56 PM
jason75087
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrossOps View Post
Ok, I will go ahead and state that I am very new to jeeps. But to clarify... are you saying my brand new 2015 Wrangler is going to need to do this? Brand new?
Yep! Unless they change from 14mm, no collar, bolts to 9/16 with a collar (which is what the kits provide).

There are guys on here with bone stock under 10k miles that noticed unusual wear when changing the bolts. Cheap insurance to prevent Death Wobble!
07-22-2014 10:49 PM
CrossOps Ok, I will go ahead and state that I am very new to jeeps. But to clarify... are you saying my brand new 2015 Wrangler is going to need to do this? Brand new?
07-22-2014 10:16 PM
SteedGun One more thing I did on mine. I put Tri-Flow on all the bushings as I put them back. The bushings will start to squeak once they dry out and it will drive you nuts trying to find the one squeaking. I know I spent almost a month hunting down some serious squeakers on my 2010. So, when I was replacing all the bolts on my 2014 I put Tri-Flow on all the bushings. Mine is quiet as a mouse.
07-22-2014 08:56 PM
T3Knical5urg3 How is this not stickied? This is far more important then some of the other stickied topics.
07-22-2014 05:43 PM
Tnewcomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteedGun View Post
You will be sore for days. I am very glad mine are all done. I actually did the LCAs, TBs, and UCAs. I bought both bolt kits from Synergy. I did them all just to be sure. I am very glad I have a long breaker bar and torque wrench. This is real work for sure but really worth the time and effort.

If any of you end up doing the UCAs you might want to PM me as there are a few tricks to getting two of the bolts started. I can save you a lot of time.
You are not kidding about being sore but still glad I did it myself and I do feel some difference hitting the bumps on the roads going back and forth to work.
07-21-2014 08:16 PM
NoGaBiker
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013 Moab View Post
I did my spring swap while on ramps, it was very easy actually. Just put a floor jack under the side that you are working and remove that one ramp, now just drop the floor jack down ant you have plenty of travel.
But then you aren't "up on ramps," are you, hence my answer.
07-21-2014 06:48 PM
2013 Moab
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoGaBiker View Post
well, yeah, you sure are. The wheel can't lower if it's on a ramp. For springs you'll need to be on jackstands.
I did my spring swap while on ramps, it was very easy actually. Just put a floor jack under the side that you are working and remove that one ramp, now just drop the floor jack down ant you have plenty of travel.
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