|09-11-2014 02:38 PM|
Did most of this conversion yesterday. I got all the LCA bolts done and 1 of the rear track bar bolts done before i couldn't stand the heat any more. It got about 100* here in San Antonio yesterday. I am gonna finish the last 3 bolts tomorrow morning before it gets super hot again.
From what i could tell my stock bolts hadn't done much/any damage to date. Mine is an '09 JKUR with 63,400 on the clock.
|09-11-2014 08:17 AM|
|All Terrain JK|
|09-11-2014 08:14 AM|
|El of Eye||That's great! Thank you for all of the answers about the strength of the bolts. I was a little worried about how much torque they could handle because the bolts in the northridge kit are grade 8 and the factory bolts they replaced are a 10.9 grade.|
|09-10-2014 06:13 PM|
|flyfishnevada||Grade 8 9/16-18 bolts can handle way more than 130. Maybe upwards of 200 ft-lbs.|
|09-10-2014 04:56 PM|
|F1LOCO||Synergy's instructions are to torque them at 130 - at least the LCA's and TB's.|
|09-09-2014 08:14 AM|
|09-08-2014 05:10 PM|
Thanks for posting this, I have a '15 on order and will be changing out these bots asap.
I dealt with a nearly undiagnosable death wobble in my current TJ for the longest time. I actually just got good at accelerating through it before I finally vanquished it.
Death wobble sucks. I feel like they should make bumper stickers that say that, kind of like 'cancer sucks' lol. Not to make light of cancer of course, it sucks way more than death wobble, but you know what I mean.
|09-08-2014 04:22 PM|
|09-08-2014 03:31 PM|
|El of Eye||
One more thing. I was wondering how much torque the northridge grade 8 bolts can handle. I torqued them to 130 lbs. I also have a Harbor Freight torque wrench and I realize they may by off + or - 4%. THat means I could have 135 lbs. on these bolts. I was thinking that I was playing it safe setting the wrench to 130 but now I worry about the bolts being too stressed and a bolt head flying off. I have had that happen on real cheap bolts.
Am I being paranoid or should I back off the bolts?
|09-08-2014 01:58 PM|
|El of Eye||
Thanks. I'll do the same. I wasn't sure if the slightly larger washer would interfere with torque specs or something else like making the bolt a little sloppy.
|09-08-2014 01:51 PM|
|All Terrain JK|
|09-08-2014 01:48 PM|
|El of Eye||The northridge kit only comes with 1 washer for the 14 mm track bolt. I will use that on the nut side. Will it hurt anything if I use one of the 9/16 washers for the bolt side? Will the 9/16 washer being slightly larger be ok?|
|08-29-2014 07:14 AM|
|All Terrain JK|
|08-28-2014 11:58 PM|
|Lithium Lotus||Just a heads up. I installed the larger bolts last year or the year before, I forget. I live in Ohio and drive my Jeep in the winter. I had a JKS trackbar strengthening bracket installed earlier this week on the axle side. That meant having to remove my JKS front trackbar. Well the bolt got completely seized in the metal sleeve inside of the trackbar bushing. It was so tight that the impact gun was turning the bushing inside of the joint. The bolt had to be cut out and the bushing replaced. I'm not sure if I want to even try to remove one of my JKS control arms.|
|08-26-2014 06:24 AM|
|08-25-2014 03:46 PM|
|Black Willys||Is this still an issue on the 2014's and 2015's?|
|08-04-2014 11:13 PM|
|08-04-2014 09:58 PM|
|Dr. Evil||No off roading here. kjeeper recommended FOR ME, I just replace the front TB bolts. $6 locally and I was done.|
|08-04-2014 09:49 PM|
|08-04-2014 07:49 PM|
The primary problem with the smaller stock bolts happens when they are not routinely torqued to spec as part of normal maintenance. The damage to the bracket holes and bushings is worse with the smaller bolts.
|08-02-2014 11:43 PM|
|Kronk||Replaced my front bolts this evening. The OEM bolts seemed to be tight and there was very little damage to the bushings. I had death wobble at 30K. It was bad ball joints but I bought the NR kit as an extra precaution. As long as the bolts are Kept torqued to spec it doesn't seem like its a necessary upgrade, but I feel better for it anyway.|
|08-01-2014 01:55 PM|
|Jedi9||I'm sure it's been mentioned at least once but I tried sourcing the bolts from Grainger, Fastenol, and Lowes, and Northridge beats them all for pricing.|
|07-31-2014 08:56 PM|
|07-31-2014 06:27 PM|
Just finished my Northridge bolt replacements on my 2014 JKU.
Word of CAUTION, even though the instructions say that the frame side of the trac bar in 2012 and newer has a 14mm bushing and to use the supplied 14MM (silver bolts) I found it to be true on the front but the rear trac bar the 9/16th bolt fit perfectly at both ends, just slid right in. Guess Chrysler missed the upgrade on that one? Anyway double check the fit and go with the one that fits best.
|07-31-2014 10:51 AM|
What size are your tires? And have your added a lift?
Wider tires tend to like to follow the road just the way it goes. But if you added a lift depending on how high your castor may be off and that would give you a flighty feeling in the steering.
|07-31-2014 09:37 AM|
Road Walking and Traction Control
I've replaced the pitman arm on the jeep, replaced the cam sets, put aftermarket shocks on, put a dual steering stabilizer on, put new Dick Cepek tires on and aligned it about 4 times.
The tires seem to want to follow the grooves in the road and will veer me off the road or veer into the oncoming lane of traffic. When I travel at 30-45 mph and maneuver a curve in the road, the traction control light comes on.
The steering isn't as tight as I know it should be, and I can't seem to get it corrected.
Does anyone know why it would do any of these things and what I can do to fix it?
|07-24-2014 07:48 AM|
|07-23-2014 08:41 PM|
|07-23-2014 08:37 PM|
|H3br3wHamm3r81||Not a problem!|
|07-23-2014 08:36 PM|
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