|Yesterday 12:29 AM|
Again, the FACT remains that the problem does exist. It happens. It's real. How often the improper bolts cause DW, or any measure of how prevalent (common) the issue really is, remains the only debatable aspect of this conversation.
Above all else, though, peace of mind is immeasurable and invaluable. Simply changing out the bolts means you'll never have to worry about it again...
|12-05-2013 06:49 PM|
|12-05-2013 05:32 PM|
|jadmt||I have recently worked on 3 jku's one 13 and two 14's. I can say that none have had death wobble and I can say that when I looked at the stock control arm bolts and bushings they looked 100% fine no signs of wallowing out of the bushings or destruction of the threads on the bolts. Based on my findings I can conclude that on 13's and 14's there is no issues with death wobble and ill fitting bolts. I believe that proper torqueing is important in my findings. My opinion does not reflect everybody else's opinion and your findings may vary lol. On the internet forums minority problems seem like majority problems and who knows where the real problem lies. I am lucky I have never incurred the dreaded death wobble and I routinely drive 75-85mph on rough pot holed and frost heaved roads. Ah so now in typing this reply I have found the true fix...keep speeds up to at least 75mph and you want have the dreaded DW.|
|12-05-2013 05:12 PM|
The stock bolts are, in FACT, the wrong bolts for the holes that they're in.
That simply can't be argued or opined upon.
I'm glad that YOU don't have DW as a result (yet), but that doesn't change the FACT that many have.
I've seen the wallowed holes myself on more than one jeep; so, again, that can't be argued or opined upon.
The only thing that can possibly be debated is the frequency of the issue, not its existence as an issue.
It's very illogical to say "it's not a real issue for anyone, or something to be concerned about, because it hasn't happened to me."
|12-05-2013 08:11 AM|
I stated that opinions vary. You state that they do not. Your statement is false.
|12-05-2013 07:59 AM|
|12-05-2013 12:47 AM|
|12-05-2013 12:45 AM|
|12-04-2013 02:26 PM|
|12-04-2013 02:20 PM|
|12-04-2013 12:37 PM|
|12-04-2013 12:33 PM|
|12-04-2013 12:31 PM|
|12-04-2013 12:27 PM|
Perhaps because it is not an "issue". This is kind of like when someone reads all the jargon on a Jeep forum and goes to a dealer proclaiming that they want to see a JKUS. When the dealer has no idea what they mean by that made up acronym they assume that he knows nothing about Jeeps.
|12-04-2013 12:21 PM|
I figure there are many more wranglers with stock bolts that have not incurred the death wobble then have and I have read reports of people who have changed the bolts and still have had it so I figure breakfast choice may play a roll.
|12-04-2013 12:08 PM|
Odd that a lot of dealers have no idea this issue even exists. One of the deciding factors for me when choosing a dealer was the fact that the dealer knew about this and included the bolt kit with the purchase.
|12-04-2013 11:42 AM|
However, that doesn't mean a problem was necessarily averted. I have 92k on a lifted 09 with the stock bolts and not the slightest issue as well. Definitely a worthwhile pass IMHO.
|12-04-2013 11:38 AM|
|JerryJeepster||Anyone change out the bolts using the RK lca's? How is it drilling them to fit the 9/16" shouldered bolts?|
|12-03-2013 12:28 AM|
Track bar bracket axle side
2012 JKU with 47,000 miles.
Stock except for aluminum front bumper, winch and front leveling puck. Stock tire size but switched out to snow tire tread.
Experienced death wobble. Suspension bolt upgrade done previous to the DW by a garage. Not sure they did the best job, rear control arm bolt fell out a few days latter. They forced a 9/16 bolt through the 14mm frame side track bar bushing and 14mm bracket hole.
Looked at Planman's videos and diagnosed:
Bad ball joints.
Bad drag link ends.
Bad tie rod ends.
Bad track bar bushings.
Ovaled out track bar bracket bolt holes - axle and frame ends.
Have not checked the upper and lower control arms, but will.
Have checked wheels and tires for balance and roundness.
Seeking advise on:
The best axle side track bar bracket. Would prefer a bolt on since I don't weld. Not much to choose from for a non lifted Jeep.
Or would weld nuts be the way to go.
Teraflex track bar.
Tie rod ends.
Drag link ends.
Also looking for a shop in Montgomery County MD to weld the track bar bracket or weld nuts.
|10-17-2013 10:29 PM|
|03SVT||All the lower control arms and the front and rear track bar|
|10-17-2013 08:58 PM|
Can anyone indicate where exactly these replacement bolts go? Is there a picture or schematic showing this?
I just ordered a kit, want to make sure I know which ones to replace.
|10-16-2013 02:00 PM|
|NFRs2000NYC||I saw this thread before I bought my 2012. I ordered the bolt kit before I even had the Jeep, and replaced them the first week I had it. After nearly two years, I have never had a single issue having to do with suspension, including even the SLIGHTEST hint of death wobble. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade IMHO.|
|10-16-2013 01:10 PM|
|08-20-2013 09:37 AM|
Just changed out the axle side front track bar bolt with flagged nut. Bolt/nut coming out was 21mm and the Northridge 9/16th's bolt/nut going on are 22mm (probably 7/8th's but 22mm fit really well).
I did notice that the bushing in the track bar after 3500 easy miles was starting to show signs of the threads chewing into it already. Once loosened there was a tremendous amount of play in the with stock bolt in hole. The 9/16's fit like a glove in the bushing but the bracket holes are horribly ovalized and probably had 3mm or more of play! Is this normal or did they ovalize since production? Wow is all I have to say, it's almost like the bracket holes were ovalized on purpose to allow for adjustment but I can't imagine the need in this application.
I'll post picture with the 9/16th's bolt in and the extra space in the bracket hole because it's really shocking to me at least.
Torqued down to 125ft lbs with 22mm box wrench on the nut wedged on something up there to prevent it from moving.
1 down 9 to go
|08-19-2013 05:10 PM|
They use smaller bolts to facilitate the manufacturing process. I don't know why they use fully threaded bolts.
As long as the factory bolts are regularly retorqued, they don't pose a significant problem. However, at least upgrading the front trackbar bolts is what I recommend.
If you are installing a lift, there is no reason not to spend a little extra money and upgrade the bolts at the same time.
|08-19-2013 01:27 PM|
|Nickdoesabodygood||I'm new to this thread and I was hoping someone could save me from having to read all 41 pages. Is this still an issue on the '14 LCA's? I also plan on installing a RK lift at some point but it looks like from what I've read the newer RK control arms no longer need to be reamed out, is that correct?|
|08-19-2013 10:16 AM|
|08-17-2013 04:11 PM|
If you want to upgrade, then do a 9/16" bolt kit.
|08-17-2013 10:02 AM|
Bought my JKUS two months ago...have read this thread through and am somewhat concerned but have a few questions. At the moment, mine is on road only. Plan on doing some mudding with a friend, but thats all for now. Sometime in the next year or so, I am wanting to take it out to Colorado to visit some family and hopefully take the Jeep out for some fun while there. Is this something I should be concerned with in the short term, being predominately on road for now?
Thanks for any advice!
|08-16-2013 10:54 PM|
Have read every post in this thread. Major kudos to planman and all the other pioneers for their efforts into diagnosing and (hopefully!) resolving this situation.
I've ordered the Northridge kit, and will be looking to do the install on my 2013 JKUR once it arrives this Friday (gives me time to acquire the necessary tools).
|This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|