|09-12-2012 09:16 AM|
|09-11-2012 10:12 PM|
The solution I found from this thread and a similar thread on Jeep Forum was to buy the Blue Seas fuse box. All of my accessories will be (when I get around to it) wired to that fuse box, and then one heavy gauge wire will go from the fuse box to the battery. This way you'll have only the main power cable and the fuse box cable on the battery. And you should probably leave the winch line on there since its big. But all of the little stuff, like lights, stereo, amp, cb radio etc will just go to the fuse box. All of those accessories are traditionally wired with inline fuses, but you eliminate this with the addition of a fuse box, because all the fuses are in the box. Then you can label them, and don't have to go tracing wires to find a blown fuse. The fuse box takes all the little wires off your battery, and cleans up all your wiring.
One of my buddies installed that fuse box behind his center console. So all of the accessories that are inside the Jeep (stereo, amp, cb etc.) don't have wires penetrating the firewall to go to the battery; only the one wire from the fuse box has to go.
Also, post a pic of your battery problem so we can see exactly what you're talking about.
|09-11-2012 10:03 PM|
Just got a 2013 Rubi 2 door and I've started the mod process (Warn powerplant, aux lights, CB radio, etc...). Stopped in at SEARS and purchased the Platinum P34. Tried to install it but it wont work because the terminals are reversed. Meaning, the (-) terminal is against the fire wall and (+) terminal is facing the grille (front of jeep). The wire, (+), against the fire wall and not long enough the reach the (+) terminal of the battery. I can't even stretch it across the battery!
So...what you all have been talking about sounds interesting. Someone mentioned NOT having alot of wire attachments to your battery posts....I like this idea. Then someone mentioned a circuit board? Thats where I got lost.
In summary....I need your help. What route do you recommend I take.
|02-22-2012 05:09 PM|
|02-22-2012 11:25 AM|
|Black Magic Brakes||
|02-22-2012 11:25 AM|
let me throw this out there...what does a dual battery system gain you in a jeep?...only necessary if a winch is in place? would offer more room for "clean power" 12V hookups
|02-22-2012 10:58 AM|
|soccer jerseys||I would use something bigger than 14amp, just to be safe!!!|
|02-22-2012 10:54 AM|
|20ga||I use a "fused" buss bar.|
|02-22-2012 08:59 AM|
|02-22-2012 12:28 AM|
X2....Running the 7 circuit model. Pleanty of room for switched and non-switched accessories all with branch circuit fuse protection. Plus it has a circuit breaker for the main feed from the battery.
|02-22-2012 12:21 AM|
|02-21-2012 11:47 PM|
|02-21-2012 11:34 PM|
They look exotic
and all that, but you could go to a junk yard and get a power control module with the fuses, relays, etc.
|02-21-2012 10:53 PM|
I just found this 100A fuse Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems ANL Fuse 100 AMP: Sports & Outdoors to go into this: Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 5005 ANL 300 Fuse Block with Cover: Sports & Outdoors
what do you think?
|02-21-2012 10:35 PM|
|jstone326||and another thing haha... if I get that fuse block, should I get the one with the ground?|
|02-21-2012 10:34 PM|
So I was just looking at this: Blue Sea Systems 12 Circuit ST Blade Fuse Blocks and I think it might be a better way to go. Especially since I think that my terminal block probably isn't enough for what I'd put on it.
Also, another question... I know I should put a fuse between the fuse block/terminal strip and the battery, but since they only make regular blade fuses up to 30 amps, what would I use? I see they have circuit breakers, but is that my only option?
|02-21-2012 10:17 PM|
Okay, so let me see if I can reiterate everything thats been said, and see if thats okay.
So I can set up a terminal block with a large lead (#4 wire?) going to the battery with an inline fuse. Then I can hook up each individual accessory to the terminal block, and make sure each has its own inline fuse.
Also, it would be a good idea to have a solenoid between the winch and the battery so there is no current when I'm not actually using the winch, therefore limiting the risk of fire to when I'm actually standing there using the winch.
Also make sure all wires are in good condition and not resting on something that would get hot enough to melt the insulation, and thus possibly cause a short. Though if I have inline fuses, this would just blow a fuse. So therefore I should be especially sure about the piece of wire between the inline fuse and the battery, which is why that length should be as small as possible.
Did I cover everything? That sound good?
Thanks for all your input!
|02-21-2012 10:03 PM|
Correct. if the wire from the solenoid gets shorted to the frame, and the solenoid does weld shut when you push the go button, then you have BIG trouble. The solenoid probably wont weld shut unless there is excessive current and it starts to arc. You might be there pushing the winch button, but it wont matter when it goes into meltdown mode. But yeah it wont matter until you engage the solenoid.
I've seen a number of batteries dead shorted. I watch a girl hook up 6 batteries (electric car) in series with 1/4" x 1" copper bars. She didn't stop until she completed the circuit. Most batteries will melt the terminals, shoot smoke, and loose connection before they crack and spew acid, but not all of them. I've also seen guys badly burned with a socket when removing terminals and dead shorting the battery. A socket will glow red hot in a second or less with a dead short. Always remove the ground first, and always keep an eye on the positive terminal and leads!
|02-21-2012 08:04 PM|
welding solenoid contacts
That can happen, but if it did it would be no different that if the solenoid wasn't in the circuit. In order for there to be any fire there would have to be some other short.
The only time that the solenoid would weld is while using the winch and then it would be under observation. During the other 99% of the time the circuit would be protected.
And yes, the leads do need to be checked.
|02-21-2012 07:32 PM|
|shogun65||Terminal strip is good option as stated use proper wire size and all is good. Might want a inline fuse also.|
|02-21-2012 04:47 PM|
|02-21-2012 02:55 PM|
no fuse = fire
The wire from the battery to the first fuse is highly susceptible to fire. If it is abraided and shorts it will heat up to the capacity of the battery. That is the cause of most under hood fires.
The first (main) fuse is to keep from overloading the wire from the battery to the block. Typically that is fused at the source, but in this case, it protects the multiple wires from adding up and overloading the main wire.
Each individual fuse is rated for from 2 to 10 times its actual load. Say a 14 gauge wire for 15 amps and it only carries 2 amps normally. Still the 15 amp fuse will protect that wire from more than 15 amps and overheating it.
If you have 10 circuits like that, each fused at 15 amps you could get 150 amps on the block (theoretically) before it would blow any of those fuses. So, the main fuse (say 50 A) is to protect the main wire from more than 50A of load. It still doesn't protect from a short between the battery and the main fuse.
In a winch installation, there really should be a solenoid as close to the battery as possible. That solenoid is only energized when you are winching. That way, if the cable frays, it doesn't fry the Jeep.
|02-21-2012 02:23 PM|
|02-21-2012 12:48 PM|
|Kevbz||I have always thought you run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to your new terminal block, inline fused for total amperage pull. Be it 40, 50, 60 amps (maxi fuse comes to mind) then each accessory you hook up gets it's own fused power wire rated for its amp's, and all fuses are to be as close to the supply as possible to protect the remaining wire|
|02-21-2012 12:44 PM|
|TXST8tj||Yeah, I think it's a manufacturing swing with Duralast in that regard. The model# on the old battery was the same as on the new. Perhaps the new batches are being made with side terminals.|
|02-21-2012 12:22 PM|
My one year old Duralast Gold has no side posts.
Luck of the draw I guess. Whatever the Autozone dude reads on his screen, then goes and grabs off the shelf is what you are stuck with.
Unless you educate him before you pay.....which I did not.
|02-21-2012 12:13 PM|
My TJ had a Duralast Gold battery in it when I bought it. When it died a couple weeks ago, they replaced it with a new one for free. I'm not going to say no to a free $130 battery. It happens to have top and side terminals like the one below. Honestly, I don't recall the old one having the side terminals.
I don't use these side terminals, but they are there.
Walk around the battery section of any auto parts store. There are several terminal clamps that have accomodations for adding lots of accessories.
|02-20-2012 09:37 PM|
That is pretty wimpy. I'd run something WAY bigger. I have an amp (4g for 300w total rms), offroad lights (8g), and a 0g winch and it all fits fine. There is no way I would ever use that terminal strip for anything on a jeep except maybe to run external gauges or something small. I have these stinger terminals on my car and they have room for tons of extra stuff. I think they have a 0-2g port, two 4-8g port and some other size.
On my RV power distribution system I used something like this with fused outputs.
|02-20-2012 09:25 PM|
|02-20-2012 09:19 PM|
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