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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-12-2012 08:16 AM
lindel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kohtro View Post
Greetings

Just got a 2013 Rubi 2 door and I've started the mod process (Warn powerplant, aux lights, CB radio, etc...). Stopped in at SEARS and purchased the Platinum P34. Tried to install it but it wont work because the terminals are reversed. Meaning, the (-) terminal is against the fire wall and (+) terminal is facing the grille (front of jeep). The wire, (+), against the fire wall and not long enough the reach the (+) terminal of the battery. I can't even stretch it across the battery!

So...what you all have been talking about sounds interesting. Someone mentioned NOT having alot of wire attachments to your battery posts....I like this idea. Then someone mentioned a circuit board? Thats where I got lost.

In summary....I need your help. What route do you recommend I take.

Thank you,
jim
Go back to Sears and get the right battery. Somewhere in their invetory, they'll have the right one.
09-11-2012 09:12 PM
jstone326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kohtro View Post
Greetings

Just got a 2013 Rubi 2 door and I've started the mod process (Warn powerplant, aux lights, CB radio, etc...). Stopped in at SEARS and purchased the Platinum P34. Tried to install it but it wont work because the terminals are reversed. Meaning, the (-) terminal is against the fire wall and (+) terminal is facing the grille (front of jeep). The wire, (+), against the fire wall and not long enough the reach the (+) terminal of the battery. I can't even stretch it across the battery!

So...what you all have been talking about sounds interesting. Someone mentioned NOT having alot of wire attachments to your battery posts....I like this idea. Then someone mentioned a circuit board? Thats where I got lost.

In summary....I need your help. What route do you recommend I take.

Thank you,
jim
Well the whole point of me starting this thread in the first place was that I literally couldn't fit all my wires onto the terminal on the battery. Forget about the circuit boards. I'm not sure why you can't just turn the battery around to fix your problem, but we have different year Jeeps, so idk what yours looks like.

The solution I found from this thread and a similar thread on Jeep Forum was to buy the Blue Seas fuse box. All of my accessories will be (when I get around to it) wired to that fuse box, and then one heavy gauge wire will go from the fuse box to the battery. This way you'll have only the main power cable and the fuse box cable on the battery. And you should probably leave the winch line on there since its big. But all of the little stuff, like lights, stereo, amp, cb radio etc will just go to the fuse box. All of those accessories are traditionally wired with inline fuses, but you eliminate this with the addition of a fuse box, because all the fuses are in the box. Then you can label them, and don't have to go tracing wires to find a blown fuse. The fuse box takes all the little wires off your battery, and cleans up all your wiring.

One of my buddies installed that fuse box behind his center console. So all of the accessories that are inside the Jeep (stereo, amp, cb etc.) don't have wires penetrating the firewall to go to the battery; only the one wire from the fuse box has to go.


Also, post a pic of your battery problem so we can see exactly what you're talking about.
09-11-2012 09:03 PM
Kohtro
Don't understand.

Greetings

Just got a 2013 Rubi 2 door and I've started the mod process (Warn powerplant, aux lights, CB radio, etc...). Stopped in at SEARS and purchased the Platinum P34. Tried to install it but it wont work because the terminals are reversed. Meaning, the (-) terminal is against the fire wall and (+) terminal is facing the grille (front of jeep). The wire, (+), against the fire wall and not long enough the reach the (+) terminal of the battery. I can't even stretch it across the battery!

So...what you all have been talking about sounds interesting. Someone mentioned NOT having alot of wire attachments to your battery posts....I like this idea. Then someone mentioned a circuit board? Thats where I got lost.

In summary....I need your help. What route do you recommend I take.

Thank you,
jim
02-22-2012 04:09 PM
jstone326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
There's a buncha smart folks in here giving you advice and unless I missed it somehow, they didn't tell you that mounting anything to your PCM will probably be a very bad idea.
Haha yeah, I actually realized that pretty quickly when I looked at that more closely, and realized that drilling into that would be a very bad idea.
02-22-2012 10:25 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstone326 View Post
Pics
So for some reason I had it in my head that fender closest to the battery was empty, but it actually has the airbox on it, the other fender is empty however. I took some pics of possible mounting locations, what do you think?

Here's the strip:
A Possibility


There's a buncha smart folks in here giving you advice and unless I missed it somehow, they didn't tell you that mounting anything to your PCM will probably be a very bad idea.
02-22-2012 10:25 AM
Kevbz let me throw this out there...what does a dual battery system gain you in a jeep?...only necessary if a winch is in place? would offer more room for "clean power" 12V hookups

http://www.quadratec.com/products/17004_1000.htm
02-22-2012 09:58 AM
soccer jerseys I would use something bigger than 14amp, just to be safe!!!
02-22-2012 09:54 AM
20ga I use a "fused" buss bar.
02-22-2012 07:59 AM
jstone326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheel2Work View Post
I was really surprised that no one mentioned the Painless Wiring Circuit Boss in all of that! It has 3 or 7 circuits, that are relayed and on a breaker to the battery. It seems a lot easier than individual in line fuses and has a grounding point on the fuse block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteyj View Post
X2....Running the 7 circuit model. Pleanty of room for switched and non-switched accessories all with branch circuit fuse protection. Plus it has a circuit breaker for the main feed from the battery.
I just checked out that one... its a lot more expensive than the blue seas one, and the only differences that I see is that it comes with a circuit breaker, and doesn't have a cover
02-21-2012 11:28 PM
whiteyj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheel2Work View Post
I was really surprised that no one mentioned the Painless Wiring Circuit Boss in all of that! It has 3 or 7 circuits, that are relayed and on a breaker to the battery. It seems a lot easier than individual in line fuses and has a grounding point on the fuse block.

X2....Running the 7 circuit model. Pleanty of room for switched and non-switched accessories all with branch circuit fuse protection. Plus it has a circuit breaker for the main feed from the battery.
02-21-2012 11:21 PM
Wheel2Work
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstone326
and another thing haha... if I get that fuse block, should I get the one with the ground?
I was really surprised that no one mentioned the Painless Wiring Circuit Boss in all of that! It has 3 or 7 circuits, that are relayed and on a breaker to the battery. It seems a lot easier than individual in line fuses and has a grounding point on the fuse block.
02-21-2012 10:47 PM
jstone326
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballistx View Post
and all that, but you could go to a junk yard and get a power control module with the fuses, relays, etc.
Haha yeah I could, but that requires me finding a decent junk yard near me, which aren't that common or close... the ones I know of are in places where white boys don't go haha
02-21-2012 10:34 PM
ballistx
They look exotic

and all that, but you could go to a junk yard and get a power control module with the fuses, relays, etc.
02-21-2012 09:53 PM
jstone326 I just found this 100A fuse Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems ANL Fuse 100 AMP: Sports & Outdoors to go into this: Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 5005 ANL 300 Fuse Block with Cover: Sports & Outdoors

what do you think?
02-21-2012 09:35 PM
jstone326 and another thing haha... if I get that fuse block, should I get the one with the ground?
02-21-2012 09:34 PM
jstone326 So I was just looking at this: Blue Sea Systems 12 Circuit ST Blade Fuse Blocks and I think it might be a better way to go. Especially since I think that my terminal block probably isn't enough for what I'd put on it.

Also, another question... I know I should put a fuse between the fuse block/terminal strip and the battery, but since they only make regular blade fuses up to 30 amps, what would I use? I see they have circuit breakers, but is that my only option?

thanks
02-21-2012 09:17 PM
jstone326 Okay, so let me see if I can reiterate everything thats been said, and see if thats okay.

So I can set up a terminal block with a large lead (#4 wire?) going to the battery with an inline fuse. Then I can hook up each individual accessory to the terminal block, and make sure each has its own inline fuse.

Also, it would be a good idea to have a solenoid between the winch and the battery so there is no current when I'm not actually using the winch, therefore limiting the risk of fire to when I'm actually standing there using the winch.

Also make sure all wires are in good condition and not resting on something that would get hot enough to melt the insulation, and thus possibly cause a short. Though if I have inline fuses, this would just blow a fuse. So therefore I should be especially sure about the piece of wire between the inline fuse and the battery, which is why that length should be as small as possible.

Did I cover everything? That sound good?

Thanks for all your input!
02-21-2012 09:03 PM
jgorm Correct. if the wire from the solenoid gets shorted to the frame, and the solenoid does weld shut when you push the go button, then you have BIG trouble. The solenoid probably wont weld shut unless there is excessive current and it starts to arc. You might be there pushing the winch button, but it wont matter when it goes into meltdown mode. But yeah it wont matter until you engage the solenoid.

I've seen a number of batteries dead shorted. I watch a girl hook up 6 batteries (electric car) in series with 1/4" x 1" copper bars. She didn't stop until she completed the circuit. Most batteries will melt the terminals, shoot smoke, and loose connection before they crack and spew acid, but not all of them. I've also seen guys badly burned with a socket when removing terminals and dead shorting the battery. A socket will glow red hot in a second or less with a dead short. Always remove the ground first, and always keep an eye on the positive terminal and leads!
02-21-2012 07:04 PM
ballistx
welding solenoid contacts

That can happen, but if it did it would be no different that if the solenoid wasn't in the circuit. In order for there to be any fire there would have to be some other short.

The only time that the solenoid would weld is while using the winch and then it would be under observation. During the other 99% of the time the circuit would be protected.

And yes, the leads do need to be checked.
02-21-2012 06:32 PM
shogun65 Terminal strip is good option as stated use proper wire size and all is good. Might want a inline fuse also.
02-21-2012 03:47 PM
jgorm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballistx View Post
In a winch installation, there really should be a solenoid as close to the battery as possible. That solenoid is only energized when you are winching. That way, if the cable frays, it doesn't fry the Jeep.
until you need to use the winch and when you push the button the solenoid welds together and you hope that the battery terminals melt off before the jeep burns to the ground. ALL the wires to the winch need to be carefully protected.
02-21-2012 01:55 PM
ballistx
no fuse = fire

The wire from the battery to the first fuse is highly susceptible to fire. If it is abraided and shorts it will heat up to the capacity of the battery. That is the cause of most under hood fires.

The first (main) fuse is to keep from overloading the wire from the battery to the block. Typically that is fused at the source, but in this case, it protects the multiple wires from adding up and overloading the main wire.

Each individual fuse is rated for from 2 to 10 times its actual load. Say a 14 gauge wire for 15 amps and it only carries 2 amps normally. Still the 15 amp fuse will protect that wire from more than 15 amps and overheating it.

If you have 10 circuits like that, each fused at 15 amps you could get 150 amps on the block (theoretically) before it would blow any of those fuses. So, the main fuse (say 50 A) is to protect the main wire from more than 50A of load. It still doesn't protect from a short between the battery and the main fuse.

In a winch installation, there really should be a solenoid as close to the battery as possible. That solenoid is only energized when you are winching. That way, if the cable frays, it doesn't fry the Jeep.
02-21-2012 01:23 PM
jstone326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevbz View Post
I have always thought you run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to your new terminal block, inline fused for total amperage pull. Be it 40, 50, 60 amps (maxi fuse comes to mind) then each accessory you hook up gets it's own fused power wire rated for its amp's, and all fuses are to be as close to the supply as possible to protect the remaining wire
Yeah that's what I was thinking, and all the individual wires already have inline fuses
02-21-2012 11:48 AM
Kevbz I have always thought you run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to your new terminal block, inline fused for total amperage pull. Be it 40, 50, 60 amps (maxi fuse comes to mind) then each accessory you hook up gets it's own fused power wire rated for its amp's, and all fuses are to be as close to the supply as possible to protect the remaining wire
02-21-2012 11:44 AM
TXST8tj Yeah, I think it's a manufacturing swing with Duralast in that regard. The model# on the old battery was the same as on the new. Perhaps the new batches are being made with side terminals.
02-21-2012 11:22 AM
TJDave My one year old Duralast Gold has no side posts.

Luck of the draw I guess. Whatever the Autozone dude reads on his screen, then goes and grabs off the shelf is what you are stuck with.

Unless you educate him before you pay.....which I did not.
02-21-2012 11:13 AM
TXST8tj
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstone326 View Post
I didn't think so, but then TXSTTJ said he had em on the same battery, sooo
I believe you that you don't have the side terminals. I honestly don't know squat about the build of Duralast batteries, so who knows how often they change the specs on them, or if the same model # roles out with and without extra terminals.

My TJ had a Duralast Gold battery in it when I bought it. When it died a couple weeks ago, they replaced it with a new one for free. I'm not going to say no to a free $130 battery. It happens to have top and side terminals like the one below. Honestly, I don't recall the old one having the side terminals.
I don't use these side terminals, but they are there.


Walk around the battery section of any auto parts store. There are several terminal clamps that have accomodations for adding lots of accessories.
02-20-2012 08:37 PM
jgorm That is pretty wimpy. I'd run something WAY bigger. I have an amp (4g for 300w total rms), offroad lights (8g), and a 0g winch and it all fits fine. There is no way I would ever use that terminal strip for anything on a jeep except maybe to run external gauges or something small. I have these stinger terminals on my car and they have room for tons of extra stuff. I think they have a 0-2g port, two 4-8g port and some other size.


On my RV power distribution system I used something like this with fused outputs.
02-20-2012 08:25 PM
mudmagnet63
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstone326 View Post
I see, so since it wouldn't be large enough, it'd be better to use a fuse block?
I didn't. I just ran a large wire ( about the size of my pinky finger ) to the terminal block. It was a larger type terminal than the one you pictured. I ran 6 KC daylighters CB, radio and equalizer/amp ect. ect. and never had issues. Each Item was fused individually. Just a large supply wire from the battery

Mud
02-20-2012 08:19 PM
jstone326
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron 06tj View Post
i would use 4 gauge since #12 is only good for 20 amps of current.
Yeah I've definitely decided not to use 12, but thinking 10, especially if just put the lights and cb on it. I'm pretty sure 10 is good for 35 amps, which should be enough
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