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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-03-2013 11:21 AM
mfresh2k2 Awesome, thx kjeeper10

1-order brackets
2-hawk a replacement bolt
3-project install
04-03-2013 11:11 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfresh2k2 View Post
Interesting, my '07 2dr can def benefit from these brackets.
I just got it aligned after installing new tires, track bar, shocks and tie rod bar.. (death wobble gone, thank you very much)
Question is, not sure if my lift came w cam bolts but regardless, if I decide to put these on myself in the driveway, measuring properly, will I need to have it realigned due to the caster? I have the specs from the fresh alignment but I'm not sure where it needs to be set in accordance with my set up.. any resources for that?
315-75-16 or 34.6" tires, 4" skycrapper springs and brackets aka suspension lift) <entirely different topic but I want to swap the parts that could improve ride quality. I was considering replacing the 4" skyjacker springs w some 3.5" ones, any opinion if springs could be an improvement?
THANKS!!
You don't need a alignment after the brackets. The hardest part of install is cutting out the passenger upper frame bolt.
04-03-2013 10:39 AM
mfresh2k2 Interesting, my '07 2dr can def benefit from these brackets.
I just got it aligned after installing new tires, track bar, shocks and tie rod bar.. (death wobble gone, thank you very much)
Question is, not sure if my lift came w cam bolts but regardless, if I decide to put these on myself in the driveway, measuring properly, will I need to have it realigned due to the caster? I have the specs from the fresh alignment but I'm not sure where it needs to be set in accordance with my set up.. any resources for that?
315-75-16 or 34.6" tires, 4" skycrapper springs and brackets aka suspension lift) <entirely different topic but I want to swap the parts that could improve ride quality. I was considering replacing the 4" skyjacker springs w some 3.5" ones, any opinion if springs could be an improvement?
THANKS!!
02-24-2013 03:58 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by carguyco
OK did the measurement as per AEV instruction .pdf....I should be in the low hole but I'm in the middle hole....however...I don't have bumpers on yet...I guess I'll wait till all the weight is on the jeep and then remeasure..and also do the caster etc one more time..thoughts?
thanks
Put a angle on one of the 2 flat machine spots front of diff. That will give you a idea what your pinion angle is.
Minus from 6 will give you the caster.

If drivability is fine and your caster is in spec, you're fine.
02-24-2013 01:37 PM
carguyco OK did the measurement as per AEV instruction .pdf....I should be in the low hole but I'm in the middle hole....however...I don't have bumpers on yet...I guess I'll wait till all the weight is on the jeep and then remeasure..and also do the caster etc one more time..thoughts?
thanks
02-23-2013 09:34 PM
carguyco Found them....will measure tomorrow.
02-23-2013 09:29 PM
carguyco Theoretically speaking...if the installer used the wrong "hole" on this bracket....(I read this whole thread and came to the conclusion that there are 3 possible mounting holes)....would that cause a shimmy of sorts?

My 3.5 lift is only a week old..but I get a pretty good shimmy on my "test" pothole just outside my neighborhood...got to thinking while reading this that I didn't have the best feeling in the world about this install and now I feel like I need to double check them...

Anybody wanna shoot me the instructions or can I find them on AEV site? I want to know where to take the measurements and decide which hole I should be installed in...

thanks in advance.
02-23-2013 08:50 PM
Divingjeeper I got them on today..they do make a difference so if anybody wants another testimonial....they're great!
02-22-2013 12:28 PM
Divingjeeper Thanks to the OP for this!!
02-08-2013 05:48 PM
kjeeper10 2.5 is safe but manufactures expect weight to added in bumpers/winch/tire carrier/etc.
So if you are just starting off you might get 3-4" or lift. Just something else to worry about
02-08-2013 05:43 PM
Rubi10A
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Sounds good to me

You can run more caster with the stock shafts, they are not prone to vibrate. BUT the increased angle and disconnecting off road will stress the joint at the TC. Eventually it will fail.

Then you will need a new double carden DS. now the pinion angle is more important.

I have to run 2-3 degrees caster just to keep my driveshaft from vibrating. 2-3 degrees caster barely puts me at the 5* max u-joint angle of operation.

Drivability is less to be desired but my only other option is to rotate the C's or a aftermarket axle with increased separation of pinion/caster. The PR unlimited runs 10*
Thanks kjeeper10, I think I repeated what SeaComms said, but was just trying to get my head around the relationships. So with a 2.5" lift you're at the limit of keeping everything balanced. Sorry for hijacking the thread.
02-08-2013 04:53 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi10A

I'm confused I'm a Newb, so that's easily done. My understanding is that Caster relative to Pinion Angle never changes, it's a function of your axle assembly. Caster is measured from the vertical and Pinion from the horizontal. As you lift a vehicle your Pinion increases and your Caster decreases by the same number of degrees. If you correct for pinion and caster on a lifted Jeep with brackets or LCAs, your driveshaft angle increases so there's no perfect solution, handling is less impacted if you can stay close to factory Caster and your stock driveshaft will be happy if the pinion angle is close to factory as long as the angles aren't too large at each end of the driveshaft. Obviously with a large lift you can't keep all this in balance and need to consider a high pinion axle assembly and double cardan driveshaft. This is just my newb understanding so please let me know if I'm off base.
Sounds good to me

You can run more caster with the stock shafts, they are not prone to vibrate. BUT the increased angle and disconnecting off road will stress the joint at the TC. Eventually it will fail.

Then you will need a new double carden DS. now the pinion angle is more important.

I have to run 2-3 degrees caster just to keep my driveshaft from vibrating. 2-3 degrees caster barely puts me at the 5* max u-joint angle of operation.

Drivability is less to be desired but my only other option is to rotate the C's or a aftermarket axle with increased separation of pinion/caster. The PR unlimited runs 10*
02-08-2013 04:22 PM
Rubi10A
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
Stated in the original manual (not sure if in the new one) was the requirement for adjustable upper control arms if you were over 4.5in lift.

That said, you can not change the ratio of caster to pinion angle with brackets or control arms. The ratio of caster to pinion angle is only related to the height you have lifted. If you keep the caster the same as you lift (say by using adjustable control arms) then the pinion angle will increase as the mounting point of the other end of the driveshaft is lifting.

Its a happy medium, and at 5 in there is not really anywhere in the middle I would think you could get a high enough caster to drive nicely and a low enough pinion angle to stop vibrations - I would say a new driveshaft is prob required.
I'm confused I'm a Newb, so that's easily done. My understanding is that Caster relative to Pinion Angle never changes, it's a function of your axle assembly. Caster is measured from the vertical and Pinion from the horizontal. As you lift a vehicle your Pinion increases and your Caster decreases by the same number of degrees. If you correct for pinion and caster on a lifted Jeep with brackets or LCAs, your driveshaft angle increases so there's no perfect solution, handling is less impacted if you can stay close to factory Caster and your stock driveshaft will be happy if the pinion angle is close to factory as long as the angles aren't too large at each end of the driveshaft. Obviously with a large lift you can't keep all this in balance and need to consider a high pinion axle assembly and double cardan driveshaft. This is just my newb understanding so please let me know if I'm off base.
02-08-2013 03:01 PM
DallasJKU
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastersonics

What are your thoughts then?
Is it a big difference?
No problem in buying them, just want to know the difference and attributes from stock.

thanks,
Charles
I also have only run them. All I can say is I believe they are working as advertised. However, I'm running the 2.5" hole and AEV said to run the middle hole since I'm not running a winch or tire carrier bumper. I might try that hole just to see how it drives for a week or so.
02-08-2013 12:03 PM
Chrimbler I put them on with my 2.5" lift, not sure what it would be like without them as I did it at the same time. From what I've read though, it does make quite a difference. I am very happy with the way mine rides with them.
02-08-2013 11:10 AM
Mastersonics
Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasJKU View Post
Nit sure if it is a must, but I run them on my 2.5" AEV.
What are your thoughts then?
Is it a big difference?
No problem in buying them, just want to know the difference and attributes from stock.

thanks,
Charles
02-08-2013 11:02 AM
DallasJKU
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastersonics View Post
Hi

I'm buying the 2.5" lift from AEV
I have a few people telling me that it's needed on the 3.5" lift and not on the 2.5" lift.

Is it a must to get it or not?

thanks,
Charles
Nit sure if it is a must, but I run them on my 2.5" AEV.
02-08-2013 10:36 AM
Mastersonics Hi

I'm buying the 2.5" lift from AEV
I have a few people telling me that it's needed on the 3.5" lift and not on the 2.5" lift.

Is it a must to get it or not?

thanks,
Charles
02-08-2013 08:31 AM
gluestick
Quote:
Originally Posted by huskerpick
Just put my AEV Geometry Correction Front Control Arm Drop Brackets on tonight. Here are my thoughts.
The AEV supplied hardware required different wrench sizes than the OEM : Lower Control Arm nut and bolt was an OEM sized 21mm but the supplied bolt was a 22mm or 7/8". The Upper Control Arm mount bolt was also 1 MM oversize than the 18 MM OEM nut. I'd gone out to buy 18 and 21mm metric sockets late that afternoon and thought I was done tonight till I figured out 7/8" works for the Lower Control Arm Bolts. Finally got it all torqued and installed anyway.

The ride on my 2 1/5 inch Teraflex lift is MUCH improved. The wife says she feels safer riding in the passenger seat now. Testing on the potholed and early mud-season frozen roads in Vermont was great. Will find out how the 55+ highway goes tomorrow.

Steve
Many miles later for me and still the best $99 I bolted on to my Jeep.
02-08-2013 02:44 AM
huskerpick
2012 JK Sport goes on without manifold problems.

Just put my AEV Geometry Correction Front Control Arm Drop Brackets on tonight. Here are my thoughts.
The AEV supplied hardware required different wrench sizes than the OEM : Lower Control Arm nut and bolt was an OEM sized 21mm but the supplied bolt was a 22mm or 7/8". The Upper Control Arm mount bolt was also 1 MM oversize than the 18 MM OEM nut. I'd gone out to buy 18 and 21mm metric sockets late that afternoon and thought I was done tonight till I figured out 7/8" works for the Lower Control Arm Bolts. Finally got it all torqued and installed anyway.

The ride on my 2 1/5 inch Teraflex lift is MUCH improved. The wife says she feels safer riding in the passenger seat now. Testing on the potholed and early mud-season frozen roads in Vermont was great. Will find out how the 55+ highway goes tomorrow.

Steve
04-08-2012 07:18 PM
SeaComms Stated in the original manual (not sure if in the new one) was the requirement for adjustable upper control arms if you were over 4.5in lift.

That said, you can not change the ratio of caster to pinion angle with brackets or control arms. The ratio of caster to pinion angle is only related to the height you have lifted. If you keep the caster the same as you lift (say by using adjustable control arms) then the pinion angle will increase as the mounting point of the other end of the driveshaft is lifting.

Its a happy medium, and at 5 in there is not really anywhere in the middle I would think you could get a high enough caster to drive nicely and a low enough pinion angle to stop vibrations - I would say a new driveshaft is prob required.
04-08-2012 05:24 PM
SilverSport
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinBoy View Post
I put these brackets on my 2007, 2 door JK with a 5" Skyjacker lift. I had -1.2 degrees of caster and my pinion angle was about 2 degrees. I put the brackets on and put the upper control arms in the lower holes on the brackets as they should be. It drove a lot better, but I noticed my pinion angle was increased quit a bit. And there was some vibration at higher speeds.

So I deceided to put the UCAs in the middle holes to take some of the angle out. Did not like the way it handled. I took it to get the alignment numbers again. This time my caster was -1.7 and my pinion angle was 6 degrees. That was on the middle setting. So Im guessing my caster was around 4 when I had the UCAs in the lowest setting but my pinion angle would have been at 8 degrees or more, no wonder the vibration.

What it comes down to for me as I see it. Im taking them off and getting the adjustable LCAs. If I would have just bought them the first time. My pinion angle being at 2 degrees, I could have moved it to 5 degrees which is the preference for lifted JKs. That intern would have moved my caster to -4.2 degrees which is the preference for my lifted JK.

I think because the brackets moved my tire forward has well, it changed the ratio of my caster to pinion angle.

If anybody has any ideas, I would love to hear them. But as I see it, theyre coming off and getting Craigslisted!
Sorry to hear and a bit strange since they are included with the AEV 4.5" lift. They are supposed to reduce the driveshaft angle since they rotate the pinion up as the axle drops.
04-08-2012 11:00 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinBoy
I put these brackets on my 2007, 2 door JK with a 5" Skyjacker lift. I had -1.2 degrees of caster and my pinion angle was about 2 degrees. I put the brackets on and put the upper control arms in the lower holes on the brackets as they should be. It drove a lot better, but I noticed my pinion angle was increased quit a bit. And there was some vibration at higher speeds.

So I deceided to put the UCAs in the middle holes to take some of the angle out. Did not like the way it handled. I took it to get the alignment numbers again. This time my caster was -1.7 and my pinion angle was 6 degrees. That was on the middle setting. So Im guessing my caster was around 4 when I had the UCAs in the lowest setting but my pinion angle would have been at 8 degrees or more, no wonder the vibration.

What it comes down to for me as I see it. Im taking them off and getting the adjustable LCAs. If I would have just bought them the first time. My pinion angle being at 2 degrees, I could have moved it to 5 degrees which is the preference for lifted JKs. That intern would have moved my caster to -4.2 degrees which is the preference for my lifted JK.

I think because the brackets moved my tire forward has well, it changed the ratio of my caster to pinion angle.

If anybody has any ideas, I would love to hear them. But as I see it, theyre coming off and getting Craigslisted!
5" lift

Your asking a lot of those brackets at that height. Assuming LCA's and UCA's will be needed for a lift that extreme.

You should no problem selling them on here
04-08-2012 10:49 AM
JeepinBoy I put these brackets on my 2007, 2 door JK with a 5" Skyjacker lift. I had -1.2 degrees of caster and my pinion angle was about 2 degrees. I put the brackets on and put the upper control arms in the lower holes on the brackets as they should be. It drove a lot better, but I noticed my pinion angle was increased quit a bit. And there was some vibration at higher speeds.

So I deceided to put the UCAs in the middle holes to take some of the angle out. Did not like the way it handled. I took it to get the alignment numbers again. This time my caster was -1.7 and my pinion angle was 6 degrees. That was on the middle setting. So Im guessing my caster was around 4 when I had the UCAs in the lowest setting but my pinion angle would have been at 8 degrees or more, no wonder the vibration.

What it comes down to for me as I see it. Im taking them off and getting the adjustable LCAs. If I would have just bought them the first time. My pinion angle being at 2 degrees, I could have moved it to 5 degrees which is the preference for lifted JKs. That intern would have moved my caster to -4.2 degrees which is the preference for my lifted JK.

I think because the brackets moved my tire forward has well, it changed the ratio of my caster to pinion angle.

If anybody has any ideas, I would love to hear them. But as I see it, theyre coming off and getting Craigslisted!
03-19-2012 02:28 PM
Abacuswrangler
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
I had 2 large bolts left over from mine too. A quick look over the AEV site and it mentions the kit come with caster correcting cam bolt replacements. The leftovers should have 2 large and thick washers each and are designed to replace the cam bolts and washers, with the new thick large washers filling the gap between the pushed out lumps on the lower control arm brackets to put the bolt back to the centre position.

Stick them in your kit of spares

I should add that I bought mine back before the 2.5in version were even being discussed (in fact when I asked the question they said no way would they ever make one....)

Anyways, mine was 1/4 lower than the minimum measurement on the AEV docs, but I thought I would give it a go anyway since at 2.75in above stock my caster had dropped to 3.5° and was getting more and more shimmy over bumps. Scared it was going to eventually evolve into full on death wobble (the last episode I had to drop from 110km/hr to about 75 to get it to stop) so I though I would give them a go.

Installation was a breeze as expected, and caster rose to 5.4° and onroad handling improved dramatically. The rear of the brackets drops approx 55mm, so with the 69mm of lift from stock I still have about 1/2 more clearance than stock. Once I replace the tyres with 33's soon that will give me another inch or so.
Even though I did not have caster correcting cam bolts, still installed the thick washers and new bolts. Since they do seat nicely between the metal tabs of the LCA axle bracket. In my opinion I think they offer more stability to the bolt, less likely of shifting forward or backward. Again, in my opinion. .
03-19-2012 10:02 AM
JKJenn
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
I had 2 large bolts left over from mine too. A quick look over the AEV site and it mentions the kit come with caster correcting cam bolt replacements. The leftovers should have 2 large and thick washers each and are designed to replace the cam bolts and washers, with the new thick large washers filling the gap between the pushed out lumps on the lower control arm brackets to put the bolt back to the centre position.

Stick them in your kit of spares

I should add that I bought mine back before the 2.5in version were even being discussed (in fact when I asked the question they said no way would they ever make one....)

Anyways, mine was 1/4 lower than the minimum measurement on the AEV docs, but I thought I would give it a go anyway since at 2.75in above stock my caster had dropped to 3.5° and was getting more and more shimmy over bumps. Scared it was going to eventually evolve into full on death wobble (the last episode I had to drop from 110km/hr to about 75 to get it to stop) so I though I would give them a go.

Installation was a breeze as expected, and caster rose to 5.4° and onroad handling improved dramatically. The rear of the brackets drops approx 55mm, so with the 69mm of lift from stock I still have about 1/2 more clearance than stock. Once I replace the tyres with 33's soon that will give me another inch or so.
Thanks for the explanation. I am a newbie at DIY work, so I wanted to make sure I didn't do something wrong. The JK is at the dealer today getting an alignment, oil change, and tranny cooler installation. I am taking it on a long roadtrip this weekend so I am sure I will appreciate the difference.
03-18-2012 08:02 AM
gluestick Sounds like SeaComms nailed it. I wasn't sure what those extras were for either. Glad the write up helped, I hope you are enjoying them as much as I am.
03-18-2012 03:51 AM
SeaComms I had 2 large bolts left over from mine too. A quick look over the AEV site and it mentions the kit come with caster correcting cam bolt replacements. The leftovers should have 2 large and thick washers each and are designed to replace the cam bolts and washers, with the new thick large washers filling the gap between the pushed out lumps on the lower control arm brackets to put the bolt back to the centre position.

Stick them in your kit of spares

I should add that I bought mine back before the 2.5in version were even being discussed (in fact when I asked the question they said no way would they ever make one....)

Anyways, mine was 1/4 lower than the minimum measurement on the AEV docs, but I thought I would give it a go anyway since at 2.75in above stock my caster had dropped to 3.5° and was getting more and more shimmy over bumps. Scared it was going to eventually evolve into full on death wobble (the last episode I had to drop from 110km/hr to about 75 to get it to stop) so I though I would give them a go.

Installation was a breeze as expected, and caster rose to 5.4° and onroad handling improved dramatically. The rear of the brackets drops approx 55mm, so with the 69mm of lift from stock I still have about 1/2 more clearance than stock. Once I replace the tyres with 33's soon that will give me another inch or so.
03-17-2012 11:21 PM
JKJenn Gluestick, your write-up was really helpful when I installed the brackets today. i am at a bit of a loss though, I reused the stock control arm bolts (as directed) with the spacers and used the new bolts from the kit in the bracket, but I have 2 unused bolts. Were they in case you did not reuse the stock control arm bolts? If not, I am really at a loss for where they go.

Only had a chance for a short trip the grocery store, but it sure seems to drive easier with the brackets, especially around corners.
03-06-2012 06:58 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by gluestick
If you are using your Jeep like sneck, I imagine your budget allows and demands far more elaborate and bomb proof solutions. If job #1 is DD and distant second is playing around on the weekends, I still highly recommend these brackets. There is a pretty broad spectrum between going bouldering with sneck in the rock garden and gravel driveways, I feel I fall comfortably in the middle . That being said, if you torque out your LCA mounting brackets like sneck in just a half dozen trips out there, you my friend are driving a trail rig! Props sneck, you are hardcore!


I agree lol
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