|12-29-2013 12:17 AM|
|Eckoh||just want to breath a bit of life into this thread... i'm lookin to go super 35 in the spring, i have been looking and hve yet to find one someone who has broke one that was not in the middle of a "dude watch this" full retard moment where he broke the ring gear but at the same time the same action would of broke a 44 or 8.8|
|01-30-2013 09:46 PM|
4.88 Gears, 35" MTRs, and Black Steelies. Also, I threw in the Super 30 up front.
|01-30-2013 05:11 PM|
|hardcoretj||Didn't break the kit but toasted 2 ring gears. V-8 with 300 ft.lb. of torque. Actually trying to sell the kit now as I have upgraded to a 8.8.|
|01-30-2013 02:56 AM|
|5spdftw||You know, I don't recall which brand or kit he had on it. This was also two owners and about 8 years ago so receipts are in the wind. I was just told he beefed up the 35 with a "Super 35" kit but when that broke he found a replacement D44 for cheaper than fixing it. I'll take your word for it on the Superior kit Jerry, sounds like a stout piece. I'll be sure to stay posted to see if anyone comes forward with any genuine breakage stories.|
|01-30-2013 02:03 AM|
|Jerry Bransford||If Superior Axle were to give me a dollar for every broken Super 35 axle shaft replaced under their lifetime warranty since day one, it wouldn't cover the cost of a good meal. I forget the exact number I was given last year but I believe it was still in the single digits.|
|01-30-2013 12:20 AM|
|01-29-2013 10:30 PM|
|DevilDogDoc||Anything can be broken if you try hard enough. There are guys breaking shafts on tons right?|
|01-29-2013 10:24 PM|
|5spdftw||I'm hesitant to put this in here but I guess I'll give it a shot. Two owners ago, my Jeep had its super 35 wrecked when on 35" tires before he put in a D44. Now, aside from running 35s I don't know what he did to break it so I wont try to change anyone's minds about the super 35. I'm sure the super 35 is a great choice for everyone but that one guy in your group who has locked 35s and bounces full throttle up hills.|
|01-28-2013 09:58 AM|
I went with the super 35 kit for the price and the strength. I didn't have time to fab something up, so it was an easy choice. I haven't had it long enough for a stress test but I'm sure it will handle everything I can throw at it.
|01-28-2013 06:58 AM|
|Peanut91||I just installed the same set up in my 2004 tj, ten factory 30 spline shafts and a detroit. I was thinking about going to 35's. Is your set up doing well?|
|02-25-2012 12:32 PM|
|Black Magic Brakes||
Go take a peek under your rig and under the hood. Every system you have mentioned exists under there already. You have a selectable transfer case, every single aspect of your engine is controlled electrically with the exception of the cable for the throttle, your cruise if you have it, is electrical, mechanical AND cable to make it work, the HVAC stuff is electrical, mechanical, and cable, yada yada yada.
With so many examples in front of them, you gotta ask yourself why OX chose a cable that is well known to have adjustment issues and why they later adapted an air actuator and were working on an electrical motor version if cables were so superior?
The point I'm getting to is certain things work best being driven or actuated in certain ways. If cable lockers were superior, a lot more of them would exist and while I have no experience with the E-locker, I gotta say I thoroughly enjoyed hooking up the last set of JK electric lockers I put into a TJ. Two wires and a switch is about as simple as a non auto locker gets.
That said, I won't be giving up my ARB's any time soon, but I'm fairly adept at wiring and running air lines.
|02-25-2012 12:30 PM|
|Coasttrash||I think I talked to him yesterday about my Novak shifter, he seems nice over the phone haha|
|02-25-2012 12:14 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Get a price from Gerald at Savvy Offroad, he is a major Superior Axle dealer and will usually beat anyone's pricing for such parts. Email him a firstname.lastname@example.org|
|02-25-2012 12:05 PM|
is this a good deal?
Superior Axle M35 Super Eliminator C-Clip Eliminator Kit 90-06 Y
|02-25-2012 01:30 AM|
|02-25-2012 01:24 AM|
Leave Vegas headed for Kansas City, break driveshaft ascending the rockys on I-70 west of Denver, remove driveshaft on the shoulder of the interstate, get back in and put it in 4-hi (with Detroit up front), and drive the remaining 650+ miles home without the help of the rear axle......
|02-25-2012 01:23 AM|
One thing to remember is, if you break a shaft on the trail and need a quick fix. You wont be finding any, anywhere at a shop.
You could always order a extra set of shafts, but keeping it 27 spline increases chances of spares and lower costs, and at a very low decrease in strength. But I do not know if they make a super 35 in 27 spline configuration.
|02-25-2012 01:06 AM|
|02-25-2012 12:42 AM|
So as some of you are aware I have posted this same question across many forums. Some have been helpful and some have not. Either way I think you can say that people are very passionate about what axle is best. I also have contacted ARB and got some good information from them too. Here is part of my email from ARB:
I'm not really a big fan of the 30 spline upgrade on the Dana 35. On the surface oversize shafts seem like a really great idea, but there are some problems associated with that change. Specifically the bigger shafts have less wind up (shafts act like a torsion bar when loaded) which greatly increases the shock loads through the rest of the drivetrain. That can be bad as the result is usually something else breaking before the shafts, typically the ring and pinion, but if that doesn't go then the driveshaft or even the T-case are vulnerable to damage. Essentially you move the weak link from a cheap and easy repair (relatively anyway) that you can carry spares with you to a very expensive and difficult trail repair as the primary likelihood. Not a good idea in my opinion to be honest. In an ideal world the 30 spline shafts would be gun drilled to allow them to twist further without breaking (shafts break from the center out) which would put the shock absorbing capacity back into the shafts without significantly weakening them, but gun drilling is really expensive so that isn't much of an option. My suggestion would be to plan on replacing the axle, either with a D44 or Ford 8.8" from an explorer. Those entire assemblies are balanced for strength with the shafts still be the weak link intentionally, but are vastly stronger than the D35 currently in the Jeep. Long term that's a much better solution as attempting to beef up the 35 is a losing proposition.
He does have some really good points as you can see.
Now back to the topic on hand. I am yet to find a first hand account of the Superior Super 35 axle shafts breaking. One said that they had bent the outer flange, but that is one of the reasons why they made the c-clip eliminator kit. Some people have noted that they tore up their lockers before the axle shafts broke. I am thinking that maybe when the axles were being designed that they intentionally make the axle shaft the weak part so it is easier to fix as noted by the ARB guy above. Less breakage in one place means more stress at other places. It looks like the Super 35 shafts can't really be broken easily even on 35s. That is also where it looks like other larger parts start breaking. The route I think I am going to go with my ARB dana 35 axle that I currently have is the Super 35 route. I understand that this increases the likelihood that when I have an axle failure it will be a big one that may leave me stranded on the trail, but it will reduce or even eliminate the possibility of a shaft break. I drive smart and 33s will get me to 90% of where I go. This Jeep is my daily driver so I will not go above 33s as I still need to get half decent gas mileage and to do 35s is just too expensive to do it right. When and if I ever do break this axle I will just upgrade to a Dana 44. Thanks for everyone's input who were actually helpful in their posts. I think that is all for now.
|02-25-2012 12:16 AM|
My TJ is my DD and it is completely unnoticeable.
|02-25-2012 12:02 AM|
|02-24-2012 10:54 PM|
I appreciate the insight as I have never ran the OX, also never really researched the cons of one. I feel I don't lack the experience, maybe just the hard fact of not having the knowledge. (hence the question). I can see the points you make.
I do like Detroits and yeah... took a few days to curb my driving habits, but with the TJ, I can't see putting one in the front since its my DD.
Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against ARB's or E-Lockers, in fact, I was planning ARB's and thought I would throw the OX into the mix. I have some time yet before I dive into lockers. You being a well-respected member of the Jeep community I again appreciate your experienced feedback. Thanks....
|02-24-2012 10:25 PM|
Only those without a lot of experience trying to get a cable-actuated-anything working smoothly and without issue would think a cable actuated mechanism YOU have to make fit and work would be a good way to go. I spent the better part of three weekends trying to get a new aftermarket (B&M) cable actuated auto transmission shifter I had to custom install to work smoothly without problem and it still had problems shifting the day that TJ was stolen several years later.
ARB air compressors and their lockers are extremely well known as nearly bulletproof and are commonly found in the best built rigs that were built by those who can afford any locker they want. Detroit Lockers are simple, work, and are darned near bulletproof as well. Even the E-Locker has a good reputation. I just don't see Ox Lockers in high-end rigs. In fact, I just don't hardly see them in rigs at all. Very rarely do I run into one.
I've worked Ox lockers and realized afterward I'd rather have anything but a cable actuated locker. It just didn't make me want one.
|02-24-2012 10:20 PM|
My question is...Why would I want to rely on air or DC power to lock in?
1. Compressor goes belly up... no lockers...
2. Bad electrical gremlin gets you... no lockers.
3. Detroits I have run in the past, but want the selectable especially for the front.
The OX, being all mechanical, can be locked with a cable or a pin if you break the cable.
Set me straight if I am wrong or lacking better understanding....persuade me in my decision....
|02-24-2012 10:11 PM|
|fabrikate_it||Not to get too far off subject but why is everyone hung up on ARB's? I guess I just had a bad personal experience with them in the past but i would go Detroit or OX as I don't know enough about the E-lockers to have a say. i'm seriously considering the S35 with Detroit and c-clip eliminators.|
|02-24-2012 09:55 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||I'd go ARB, Detroit Locker, or E-Locker before I'd go with the Ox and its cable shifter.|
|02-24-2012 09:52 PM|
I have been leaning a lot toward the Super35 with the OX locker in the future.... I have not heard one bad thing on this upgrade..
|02-24-2012 09:50 PM|
|fourty4magjr||subscribed! Doesn't look like very many have broken them, maybe Jerry scared them all off and they have only heard of friends breaking them lol|
|02-24-2012 09:33 PM|
|Johnboy11||Shesh it seems to me this is the way to go if you don't want to change your rear end. ya the parts are high but wouldn't it be higher to buy a 8.8 have it fabbed buy a locker and rebuild it and put it in?|
|02-24-2012 08:04 PM|
|4Jeepn||Its a good kit, the shafts were strong enough on my friends to bust some part in the detroit locker. It was able to be driven but made one heck of clunking sound. He ran 33's, and was hard on it. At the time it was a PITA to just get the locker replaced. Out side of that he never had an issue with it.|
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