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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-02-2012 05:47 PM
2003x
Quote:
Originally Posted by NHrubicon View Post
I have experience with the RC 4" lift...and I am sorry I bought it. I barely put 2,000 miles a year on my 03 Rubicon...and had the lift done by friends almost 4 years ago. The bushings in the shocks went first, then we noticed a 'lean' to the right passenger side. Haven't driven it at all since last november-took it out last week and it's leaning probably 1 1/2" to the right now! So I'm going to a local 4x4 shop to see what to replace it with-they asked as soon as I told them it was leaning if my lift was RC! Told me its VERY COMMON because the springs are poor quality.
6 years with my RC springs, no issues.
05-02-2012 03:16 PM
NHrubicon I have experience with the RC 4" lift...and I am sorry I bought it. I barely put 2,000 miles a year on my 03 Rubicon...and had the lift done by friends almost 4 years ago. The bushings in the shocks went first, then we noticed a 'lean' to the right passenger side. Haven't driven it at all since last november-took it out last week and it's leaning probably 1 1/2" to the right now! So I'm going to a local 4x4 shop to see what to replace it with-they asked as soon as I told them it was leaning if my lift was RC! Told me its VERY COMMON because the springs are poor quality.
04-10-2012 12:28 PM
sandro I just ordered the Zone 3 inch lft from Jeff at rockridge. Did a lot of research and found a lot of people happy with that lift and happy with Jeff, so... i will post pics in a few weeks gotta get some tires and rims now arrrgghh!


Jeff@rockridge4wd.com
Call us! Toll Free: 888-411-8493
04-02-2012 12:26 PM
Rolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman

Exactly, and with that Zone kit you're now pushing the suspension up another inch to 3" total, and that same MML is still supposed to correct your driveline angles. Many people are able to do a 2" lift without any MML and still have no vibes, thus a MML along with a 3" lift might work. I'd guess that for people who had vibes at 2" like you would need more than just the MML at 3".

Its certainly not a bad thing though; I've seen more than enough failures on the trail because of either the stock drive shaft or the slip yoke on the transfercase. If you wheel at all you'll be doing yourself a favor by getting rid of it.
I plan on doing mine as well but things are pretty expensive around here.
04-02-2012 08:08 AM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolf View Post
Yea I know what you're saying but I had vibes with oly 2" BB but with the 1" MML the vibes are gone.
Exactly, and with that Zone kit you're now pushing the suspension up another inch to 3" total, and that same MML is still supposed to correct your driveline angles. Many people are able to do a 2" lift without any MML and still have no vibes, thus a MML along with a 3" lift might work. I'd guess that for people who had vibes at 2" like you would need more than just the MML at 3".

Its certainly not a bad thing though; I've seen more than enough failures on the trail because of either the stock drive shaft or the slip yoke on the transfercase. If you wheel at all you'll be doing yourself a favor by getting rid of it.
04-02-2012 08:00 AM
Rolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
Just keep in mind that isn't always the case, contrary to what the lift manufacturer would have you believe. There are plenty of people on here that can attest to needing either a t-case drop or SYE after the installation of that lift.
Yea I know what you're saying but I had vibes with oly 2" BB but with the 1" MML the vibes are gone.
04-02-2012 07:54 AM
geiman I'd guess it depends more on the luck of the draw. Neither RC or Zone is top of the line, so I'd expect failure from both. My nitro shocks from Zone were fine until about a year and a half after I installed them. Both back shocks are now completely shot and the ride is horrible as a result. I'm trying to put off buying new shocks until I get a chance to outboard, but if any more shocks die I might have to get some sooner rather than later.
04-02-2012 07:51 AM
Muddeprived
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
I install a lot of RC kits, including their 4" kit (installing a 2.5"/1.25" as we speak actually).

I have not had a single complaint about the RC coils or shocks after 20+ RC TJ installs, including two that belong to friends of mine. I don't think quality is an issue there. I'd put the RC 2.0 Nitros against the Zone Nitros any day. Funny thing is they are probably made in the same factory in Mexico.

Coils selected for the proper application and setup will determine most of how any of those kits work out in the end. That is the case with RC and Zone.

I think with those brands/kits, you are comparing apples to apples and I would go with the better set up of the two...and on paper, that is RC.
I wouldn't put RC's nitros against Zone's. I ran zone's nitro shock and it's excellent. It's valved perfectly for our jeeps. I've been following a review on jeepforum about a dude who was given n2.0's from RC to do a honest review. He loved em ....at first....until they went to shit and had to get replacements. It all just reminded me of the crazy replacement spree I had to go on with RC's 2.2's and their damn flex joints. I will not buy nor recommend RC to anyone again. They can sell lots of stuff in one kit for cheap but there's a reason it's cheap.

To the OP, go with Zone or piece together your kit with parts you prefer.
04-02-2012 07:28 AM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolf View Post
I'm thinking picking the Zone 4.25" combo lift would definately be the wiser choice. No need for SYE or DC driveshaft.
Just keep in mind that isn't always the case, contrary to what the lift manufacturer would have you believe. There are plenty of people on here that can attest to needing either a t-case drop or SYE after the installation of that lift.
04-02-2012 01:47 AM
Rolf I'm thinking picking the Zone 4.25" combo lift would definately be the wiser choice. No need for SYE or DC driveshaft.

I am also on a tight budget but run a bit of a Frankenstein lift. Worked out much cheaper but you need some time and patience.
I run a 1.25" body lift with 1" motor mount lift. I have some beefy Zone JK front sway bar links at the rear with 2" Zone Nitro shocks. I have 2" spacers at the rear with 2" BDS XJ coils and 1" spacers upfront - I will be installing some stock JKU shocks upfront within the next couple of days. I don't have to drive that far everyday so I have the opportunity to drive around when I have time and test my setup.
04-01-2012 11:26 PM
terminator012
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
I agree with this. The springs and shocks are fine but I would not run either control arms. Those bushings are the devil. Rc should be better than the zone. But I have no experience to claim from.
I am looking at the Zone 4" for another one of my TJ's. I really like the 3 inch one on my TJ. Are the control arms with the 4" really that bad? The TJ I'm thinking about putting it on will see probably 90 percent street. It will be used to travel to school and back. How long will they hold up if it's not wheeled alot??

As a matter of fact I'm looking to de-lift one from a 5 or 5.5 RC lift. It's old and the shocks are wore out.
04-01-2012 09:50 PM
wmwhitey I have a RC 4" lift with the 2.2 shocks and I think its great not having any issues and the money I saved on the lift I spent on a dual steering stabilizer.


FYI I forgot but will be adding extended brake lines you should also with a 4" lift....
04-01-2012 09:36 PM
sandro Thanks to all for the info, I was looking at the same two kits. I'm a novice and I'm worried abouty things like needing longer brake lines, wobble etc. so I plan on having a local shop install it professionally.
03-04-2012 07:57 PM
4WheelingPlus So many options. So much confusion.

IMO: If you are on a budget the RC or Zone kit are just fine for getting started.

If you beat up or break a component on which ever kit you get; you can easily upgrade it for something stronger/better later on if needed.

None of the lift kits (regardless of brand name or price) offered are perfect for each and every scenario that everyone will drive their Jeep into.

IMO: Start off buying what you can afford and upgrade/change/replace as needed when you and your Jeep grow into more and more off roading situations.

Just because you read it in a magazine or see it posted on a web forum... you can't be certain if it will work for your exact scenario/situation.
02-28-2012 10:18 PM
nightop
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2003x View Post
It was night and day. The long arms were a hudge improvement. Any one that rides in it notices the difference.
Thanks, good to hear it.
02-28-2012 07:55 PM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
If you want to LEARN, go read some build threads over on JF and Pirate.
x2. This forum is great for a lot of things, but technical information isn't one of them, especially good info on link suspension. There are some vendors on here who will try to sell you on buying some brand X "kit", but you're money will be much better spent by thinking for yourself.
02-28-2012 04:53 PM
sdptrey I would go with zone 4" Good quality for the price. Not really a fan of bodylifts. With the 4" you get bump stops front and rear and cam plates. Tha directions are great. The springs give you more than 4". After it breaks in It rides getter than stock. All parts are are in bags and numbered which makes things easier.
02-28-2012 03:37 PM
AOR PM Sent!
02-28-2012 03:12 PM
GoldenSahara00 Plus read some basic write ups on how certain things work. It's not gona happen over night or even a few months. But you'll get a better idea everyday. People thing it's simple to lift a jeep. Just slap some parts on and go. But just like anything worth doing there is a lot more to it than what's on the surface. There are maybe 3-4 good builds on wf currently and several older ones. Jeep forum has more and pirate has more and even more advanced stuff as imped mentioned. I would make sure you understand the basics first so you get the most out of your reading of builds. Find the answers to all your questions. Make sure you know all the terminology and what all the parts do. That will help make sense of everything else.
02-28-2012 03:06 PM
Imped
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick 1179 View Post
I've read so much and still have no clue what I'm coin thats why i really like all these discussion points. if its possible keep the pointers coming.
I know a little about how jeep suspensions work but am alway willing to learn more. is there any websites that explain this or is there any suggestions on what to do first i have a little under 1500 to blow on my jeep. more will come once i start my summer job.
Confusion comes from a lack of understanding.......there's a saying that goes something like, "anything is simple when you get it." The same goes here. If all you're looking at is the dozens of brands, companies, blah blah blah out there, I'm not surprised you're confused. You're gonna continue to be confused if all you do is read "RC vs. Zone" kind of stuff. That tells me nothing about the quality of the components. The best advice I can tell you is to read some harder-core build threads where there's more tech and less "brand vs. brand" crap. If you want to LEARN, go read some build threads over on JF and Pirate.
02-28-2012 02:50 PM
Maverick 1179 I've read so much and still have no clue what I'm coin thats why i really like all these discussion points. if its possible keep the pointers coming.
I know a little about how jeep suspensions work but am alway willing to learn more. is there any websites that explain this or is there any suggestions on what to do first i have a little under 1500 to blow on my jeep. more will come once i start my summer job.
02-28-2012 01:36 PM
GoldenSahara00 Once again x2 with imped. Long arms and short arms are really not a big deal. Either rig can be set up well or not so well. I only see Long arms necessary is you have a ridiculously huge amount of lift. Which in itself isn't a great idea at all. Short arms should do fine for anything you want to do. Normally the advantages a lot of people are seeing from short to long arms are because of the Arm itself and not the length or mounting of the long versus short. Read read and read some more then spend your money
02-28-2012 10:00 AM
Imped
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick 1179 View Post
well ill look into it is a long arm suspension system the way to go?
For what?

You can ask all kinds of questions all day long but until you have a better understanding of link suspensions, it won't matter.

Short answer--no, it's not the way to go. There's every bit as many poorly-executed and junky parts out there in long arm kits as there are in junky short arm kits. What many people don't understand is that just going to longer arms and different mounting points solves nothing unless you do it right and with good parts.....and that alone will take a bare minimum of 4x your budget with you doing all the work, all of the calculations, and getting some good deals on parts. A large part of the industry just wants the extremely-gullible Jeep market to believe that longer arms will solve every problem in the book....that's not the case.
02-28-2012 09:52 AM
Maverick 1179 well ill look into it is a long arm suspension system the way to go?
02-28-2012 06:27 AM
GoldenSahara00 Imped is right. But if you do insist on suspension mods. Get a good quality set of springs and shocks, not just from some kit, that you will want to run for years. I know there are a lot of us who wish we had made better choices. Impatience isn't a good excuse to buy crap.
02-27-2012 09:45 PM
2003x
Quote:
Originally Posted by nightop

2003x -- how big of an improvement in on-road ride quality did the RC long arm upgrade make versus short arm? I've been toying with that idea in lieu of spending the money for a full 5.5" long-arm RE or Terraflex lift.
It was night and day. The long arms were a hudge improvement. Any one that rides in it notices the difference.
02-27-2012 09:44 PM
Imped Instead of spending $500 on parts that you'll certainly replace if you decide to get more serious, how about you either A) don't do anything and save the money or B) spend that same amount on USEFUL, FUNCTIONAL, SMART upgrades--ZJ tie rod, steering box skid, oil pan skid, high clearance belly skid....notice I mentioned nothing in regards to suspension. So many people think that "lift and tires" are all that's needed when, in reality, do the above with a 1.25" BL, 1" MML, and some 33x10.50's with a locker up front and you'll wind up with a rig that will out-climb and out-wheel a cookie-cutter 4" on 33's rig all day long. There's much, much more to it and unfortunately you won't see that until you've wasted a ton of money on mediocre parts and smartened up a bit. So listen to those of us with some experience and build your rig smart with the money you can spend.

Maybe I'm biased but personally, I don't care how tall your rig is or how big the tires are...nor do most guys that actually wheel and understand true performance and the functions that make it up. I admire smart, well-built rigs and it doesn't matter if they're on 30's or 37's.
02-27-2012 09:44 PM
coors Zone 4.25 is 499 shipped. The 2 listed above are over $550 with shipping.
02-27-2012 09:41 PM
Maverick 1179 well I'm mostly gonna do street driving with some light off roading.. mostly mudding. i eventually am gonna get a long arm lift kit but for now i just wanna clear some bigger tires and make it look badass.
02-27-2012 09:32 PM
nightop I've got the 4" RC X-series and like the lift but the coils are very stiff and have caused a very rough ride on the highway/road.

2003x -- how big of an improvement in on-road ride quality did the RC long arm upgrade make versus short arm? I've been toying with that idea in lieu of spending the money for a full 5.5" long-arm RE or Terraflex lift.
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