|05-02-2012 05:47 PM|
|05-02-2012 03:16 PM|
|NHrubicon||I have experience with the RC 4" lift...and I am sorry I bought it. I barely put 2,000 miles a year on my 03 Rubicon...and had the lift done by friends almost 4 years ago. The bushings in the shocks went first, then we noticed a 'lean' to the right passenger side. Haven't driven it at all since last november-took it out last week and it's leaning probably 1 1/2" to the right now! So I'm going to a local 4x4 shop to see what to replace it with-they asked as soon as I told them it was leaning if my lift was RC! Told me its VERY COMMON because the springs are poor quality.|
|04-10-2012 12:28 PM|
I just ordered the Zone 3 inch lft from Jeff at rockridge. Did a lot of research and found a lot of people happy with that lift and happy with Jeff, so... i will post pics in a few weeks gotta get some tires and rims now arrrgghh!
Call us! Toll Free: 888-411-8493
|04-02-2012 12:26 PM|
|04-02-2012 08:08 AM|
Its certainly not a bad thing though; I've seen more than enough failures on the trail because of either the stock drive shaft or the slip yoke on the transfercase. If you wheel at all you'll be doing yourself a favor by getting rid of it.
|04-02-2012 08:00 AM|
|04-02-2012 07:54 AM|
|geiman||I'd guess it depends more on the luck of the draw. Neither RC or Zone is top of the line, so I'd expect failure from both. My nitro shocks from Zone were fine until about a year and a half after I installed them. Both back shocks are now completely shot and the ride is horrible as a result. I'm trying to put off buying new shocks until I get a chance to outboard, but if any more shocks die I might have to get some sooner rather than later.|
|04-02-2012 07:51 AM|
To the OP, go with Zone or piece together your kit with parts you prefer.
|04-02-2012 07:28 AM|
|04-02-2012 01:47 AM|
I'm thinking picking the Zone 4.25" combo lift would definately be the wiser choice. No need for SYE or DC driveshaft.
I am also on a tight budget but run a bit of a Frankenstein lift. Worked out much cheaper but you need some time and patience.
I run a 1.25" body lift with 1" motor mount lift. I have some beefy Zone JK front sway bar links at the rear with 2" Zone Nitro shocks. I have 2" spacers at the rear with 2" BDS XJ coils and 1" spacers upfront - I will be installing some stock JKU shocks upfront within the next couple of days. I don't have to drive that far everyday so I have the opportunity to drive around when I have time and test my setup.
|04-01-2012 11:26 PM|
As a matter of fact I'm looking to de-lift one from a 5 or 5.5 RC lift. It's old and the shocks are wore out.
|04-01-2012 09:50 PM|
I have a RC 4" lift with the 2.2 shocks and I think its great not having any issues and the money I saved on the lift I spent on a dual steering stabilizer.
FYI I forgot but will be adding extended brake lines you should also with a 4" lift....
|04-01-2012 09:36 PM|
|sandro||Thanks to all for the info, I was looking at the same two kits. I'm a novice and I'm worried abouty things like needing longer brake lines, wobble etc. so I plan on having a local shop install it professionally.|
|03-04-2012 07:57 PM|
So many options. So much confusion.
IMO: If you are on a budget the RC or Zone kit are just fine for getting started.
If you beat up or break a component on which ever kit you get; you can easily upgrade it for something stronger/better later on if needed.
None of the lift kits (regardless of brand name or price) offered are perfect for each and every scenario that everyone will drive their Jeep into.
IMO: Start off buying what you can afford and upgrade/change/replace as needed when you and your Jeep grow into more and more off roading situations.
Just because you read it in a magazine or see it posted on a web forum... you can't be certain if it will work for your exact scenario/situation.
|02-28-2012 10:18 PM|
|02-28-2012 07:55 PM|
|02-28-2012 04:53 PM|
|sdptrey||I would go with zone 4" Good quality for the price. Not really a fan of bodylifts. With the 4" you get bump stops front and rear and cam plates. Tha directions are great. The springs give you more than 4". After it breaks in It rides getter than stock. All parts are are in bags and numbered which makes things easier.|
|02-28-2012 03:37 PM|
|02-28-2012 03:12 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Plus read some basic write ups on how certain things work. It's not gona happen over night or even a few months. But you'll get a better idea everyday. People thing it's simple to lift a jeep. Just slap some parts on and go. But just like anything worth doing there is a lot more to it than what's on the surface. There are maybe 3-4 good builds on wf currently and several older ones. Jeep forum has more and pirate has more and even more advanced stuff as imped mentioned. I would make sure you understand the basics first so you get the most out of your reading of builds. Find the answers to all your questions. Make sure you know all the terminology and what all the parts do. That will help make sense of everything else.|
|02-28-2012 03:06 PM|
|02-28-2012 02:50 PM|
I've read so much and still have no clue what I'm coin thats why i really like all these discussion points. if its possible keep the pointers coming.
I know a little about how jeep suspensions work but am alway willing to learn more. is there any websites that explain this or is there any suggestions on what to do first i have a little under 1500 to blow on my jeep. more will come once i start my summer job.
|02-28-2012 01:36 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Once again x2 with imped. Long arms and short arms are really not a big deal. Either rig can be set up well or not so well. I only see Long arms necessary is you have a ridiculously huge amount of lift. Which in itself isn't a great idea at all. Short arms should do fine for anything you want to do. Normally the advantages a lot of people are seeing from short to long arms are because of the Arm itself and not the length or mounting of the long versus short. Read read and read some more then spend your money|
|02-28-2012 10:00 AM|
You can ask all kinds of questions all day long but until you have a better understanding of link suspensions, it won't matter.
Short answer--no, it's not the way to go. There's every bit as many poorly-executed and junky parts out there in long arm kits as there are in junky short arm kits. What many people don't understand is that just going to longer arms and different mounting points solves nothing unless you do it right and with good parts.....and that alone will take a bare minimum of 4x your budget with you doing all the work, all of the calculations, and getting some good deals on parts. A large part of the industry just wants the extremely-gullible Jeep market to believe that longer arms will solve every problem in the book....that's not the case.
|02-28-2012 09:52 AM|
|Maverick 1179||well ill look into it is a long arm suspension system the way to go?|
|02-28-2012 06:27 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||Imped is right. But if you do insist on suspension mods. Get a good quality set of springs and shocks, not just from some kit, that you will want to run for years. I know there are a lot of us who wish we had made better choices. Impatience isn't a good excuse to buy crap.|
|02-27-2012 09:45 PM|
|02-27-2012 09:44 PM|
Instead of spending $500 on parts that you'll certainly replace if you decide to get more serious, how about you either A) don't do anything and save the money or B) spend that same amount on USEFUL, FUNCTIONAL, SMART upgrades--ZJ tie rod, steering box skid, oil pan skid, high clearance belly skid....notice I mentioned nothing in regards to suspension. So many people think that "lift and tires" are all that's needed when, in reality, do the above with a 1.25" BL, 1" MML, and some 33x10.50's with a locker up front and you'll wind up with a rig that will out-climb and out-wheel a cookie-cutter 4" on 33's rig all day long. There's much, much more to it and unfortunately you won't see that until you've wasted a ton of money on mediocre parts and smartened up a bit. So listen to those of us with some experience and build your rig smart with the money you can spend.
Maybe I'm biased but personally, I don't care how tall your rig is or how big the tires are...nor do most guys that actually wheel and understand true performance and the functions that make it up. I admire smart, well-built rigs and it doesn't matter if they're on 30's or 37's.
|02-27-2012 09:44 PM|
|coors||Zone 4.25 is 499 shipped. The 2 listed above are over $550 with shipping.|
|02-27-2012 09:41 PM|
|Maverick 1179||well I'm mostly gonna do street driving with some light off roading.. mostly mudding. i eventually am gonna get a long arm lift kit but for now i just wanna clear some bigger tires and make it look badass.|
|02-27-2012 09:32 PM|
I've got the 4" RC X-series and like the lift but the coils are very stiff and have caused a very rough ride on the highway/road.
2003x -- how big of an improvement in on-road ride quality did the RC long arm upgrade make versus short arm? I've been toying with that idea in lieu of spending the money for a full 5.5" long-arm RE or Terraflex lift.
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