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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-04-2012 07:51 PM
Arch Stanton Thanks for the information. I might just leave the track bar alone for now, as I only have a 1.75" BB and 31 tires. I'll wait until I move up to the 2.5" springs. Thanks again and have a good one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
The last pic has reinforcement welded on. Welding the bracket on means no bolts. Which means nothing can shift. And adding the bracket makes it a lot stronger by itself. If you really need a lot of strength do something like his last pic. Or get a 3 link rear and forget the track bar.
03-04-2012 01:13 PM
GoldenSahara00 The last pic has reinforcement welded on. Welding the bracket on means no bolts. Which means nothing can shift. And adding the bracket makes it a lot stronger by itself. If you really need a lot of strength do something like his last pic. Or get a 3 link rear and forget the track bar.
03-04-2012 01:08 PM
Arch Stanton Do you weld it on to the original? Do you need to reinforce the original bracket as well? I saw the picks that unilimited04 posted above. Is that the relocation bracket and the original welded together? Thanks for the reply!


Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
A lot of them are the same. If you want real strength weld it on. I really can't recommend a stronger one.
03-04-2012 01:04 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arch Stanton
Who makes the strongest rear track bar bracket? Any opinions on the JKS adjustable rear sway-bar links?
A lot of them are the same. If you want real strength weld it on. I really can't recommend a stronger one.
03-04-2012 01:03 PM
Arch Stanton Who makes the strongest rear track bar bracket? Any opinions on the JKS adjustable rear sway-bar links?
03-04-2012 12:55 PM
WaterDR Just a thought, when I did my lift I spoke to a guy that has installed dozens if not more. His comment to me was that 95% of the owners that install a 2" lift never bother with anything else and can have many years of trouble free service. This does not mean that NOT centering the axles is a good idea, just that most don't do it and it is not as if their rigs blow up if they don't.

If having a shifted axle bugs you, fix it. If you are rubbing, fix it.

In my case I installed a relo bracket on the back and have left the front alone.
03-04-2012 10:53 AM
I-Want-A-Jeep I just did the RC 3.25 lift and it had rear relocation bracket and longer sway links. I also drilled the hole for repositioning of the front track bar. After following the toe-in and steering wheel centering instructions found here, I'm driving pretty darn straight and my wheel is centered again!
03-04-2012 10:45 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolf

True yes. I installed new longer rear links on Friday and it made a world of difference. Like I said its not needed but highly recommended
03-04-2012 10:24 AM
Rolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

You don't need the front track bar relocation because you CAN drive with your axle uncentered.

You can argue on pretty much all of these but I wouldn't do a lift over 2.5 without new sway links. Particularly the rear. I don't think it handles the change in heights as well because of size.
True yes. I installed new longer rear links on Friday and it made a world of difference. Like I said its not needed but highly recommended
03-04-2012 10:07 AM
TJNewbie I'll have to take a look and see if my shocks are touching anything while flexing. Thanks for the info
03-04-2012 09:42 AM
TJNewbie
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
first, for the rear, if you don't center the axle, the tire will rub on the drivers side spring perch.

Here's a 31x10.50R15 on stock wheels with 5.5" backspacing. You can see how little clearance there is - imagine larger tires and an offset axle.



Now, the reason you need a relocation bracket is because the stock bracket is closed on top. With shocks longer than stock, the track bar will bind as the bracket creates interference...this means less flex, and more importantly major stress on the bracket, which will eventually cause it to rip off.



So, you install an open top relocation bracket to move the mounting point up above the axle (and correct roll center). But, the increased leverage can eventually cause problems with the stock bracket (which isn't very strong anyway). You can rip the bracket off the axle, which also takes the upper control arm with it.



The relocation bracket also pushes the axle end backwards towards the gas tanks slightly...so interferences issues can be created. The track bar can hit the gas tank, the frame or the bracket can hit the tank.

So, you can fix the whole problem in two ways.
1. Build/buy an entirely new bracket, which is thicker and beefier than stock...cut the stock bracket off, and weld that in it's place.

Like this from Rubicon Express:
Rubicon Express RE9980 - Rubicon Express Suspension Components - Overview - SummitRacing.com

There are a host of other options out there as well.

2. Reinforce the stock bracket, with the relocation bracket installed.
Here's some of mudb8's work (over on JF):

or this bracket from Moab 4x4:
TJ Track Bar Brace
When I did my lift, I also got new wheels with 3.65" backspacing, my tire side wall is 2" away from the spring perch. that's probably why I don't have a problem.
03-04-2012 09:39 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJNewbie

thanks
Read over unlimiteds. Response as well. his is more thorough than mine.
03-04-2012 09:34 AM
TJNewbie
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
It just looks dumb IMO and could cause some issues offroad as far as weight being centered over the axles.

You need the relocation bracket nearly all the time to clear things like the gas tank skid exhaust shocks etc. the bracket raises the axle end up so it's In a similar position to before the lift. There's always that one case that's different but this is the general rule.
thanks
03-04-2012 09:34 AM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by techflork View Post
i heard if your gonna recenter the axle you should just buy an adjustable track bar and NOT the relocater because people have a ton of trouble putting the relocater brackets in. Why does everyone center their axles? Does it cause for undo stress on other parts to drive them off center of each other?
first, for the rear, if you don't center the axle, the tire will rub on the drivers side spring perch.

Here's a 31x10.50R15 on stock wheels with 5.5" backspacing. You can see how little clearance there is - imagine larger tires and an offset axle.



Now, the reason you need a relocation bracket is because the stock bracket is closed on top. With shocks longer than stock, the track bar will bind as the bracket creates interference...this means less flex, and more importantly major stress on the bracket, which will eventually cause it to rip off.



So, you install an open top relocation bracket to move the mounting point up above the axle (and correct roll center). But, the increased leverage can eventually cause problems with the stock bracket (which isn't very strong anyway). You can rip the bracket off the axle, which also takes the upper control arm with it.



The relocation bracket also pushes the axle end backwards towards the gas tanks slightly...so interferences issues can be created. The track bar can hit the gas tank, the frame or the bracket can hit the tank.

So, you can fix the whole problem in two ways.
1. Build/buy an entirely new bracket, which is thicker and beefier than stock...cut the stock bracket off, and weld that in it's place.

Like this from Rubicon Express:
Rubicon Express RE9980 - Rubicon Express Suspension Components - Overview - SummitRacing.com

There are a host of other options out there as well.

2. Reinforce the stock bracket, with the relocation bracket installed.
Here's some of mudb8's work (over on JF):

or this bracket from Moab 4x4:
TJ Track Bar Brace
03-04-2012 09:11 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by techflork
i heard if your gonna recenter the axle you should just buy an adjustable track bar and NOT the relocater because people have a ton of trouble putting the relocater brackets in. Why does everyone center their axles? Does it cause for undo stress on other parts to drive them off center of each other?
It just looks dumb IMO and could cause some issues offroad as far as weight being centered over the axles.

You need the relocation bracket nearly all the time to clear things like the gas tank skid exhaust shocks etc. the bracket raises the axle end up so it's In a similar position to before the lift. There's always that one case that's different but this is the general rule.
03-04-2012 09:09 AM
WaterDR I have a 2 inch lift and used a bracket in the rear to center as I was close to rubbing. The front I left alone. It is a little shifted but has no issues.
03-04-2012 09:05 AM
techflork i heard if your gonna recenter the axle you should just buy an adjustable track bar and NOT the relocater because people have a ton of trouble putting the relocater brackets in. Why does everyone center their axles? Does it cause for undo stress on other parts to drive them off center of each other?
03-04-2012 08:04 AM
wwch99tj
Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob3358
Anybody got a link to the track bar relocater
Here's one there's plenty of other brands out there to choose from

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/rough-c...t-rc-1087.html
03-03-2012 11:11 PM
billybob3358 Anybody got a link to the track bar relocater
03-03-2012 08:30 PM
wwch99tj To center the axel
03-03-2012 08:27 PM
TJNewbie I did a 2.25" lift with shocks and added an extra 3/4" isolator pad on the front, I didn't do any of the relocation bracket or front track bar/links. and don't have any problems. what's the purpose of the modifications of track bars?
03-03-2012 06:12 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolf

You don't need longer sway bar links. I would highly recommend it especially since they are dirt cheap but they are not needed.
You don't need the front track bar relocation because you CAN drive with your axle uncentered.

You can argue on pretty much all of these but I wouldn't do a lift over 2.5 without new sway links. Particularly the rear. I don't think it handles the change in heights as well because of size.
03-03-2012 03:24 PM
Tonycrd I have a 2,5" lift, all I did was bumpstops to protect the shocks and the rear track bar relocator. Drives fine, no problems.

I went with the info found here:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/what...ed-123726.html

The relocation bracket I got was the roug country one and it said: for 2,5" to 3" lifts...so I don't see the need for an adjustable track bar...
03-03-2012 03:21 PM
Rolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
You need bumpstops sway links and the relocation bracket and to drill a hole for your front track bar. Other than that things are possibly needed.
You don't need longer sway bar links. I would highly recommend it especially since they are dirt cheap but they are not needed.
03-03-2012 11:23 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob3358
Do I really NEED all that for a 2.5in spring lift
You need bumpstops sway links and the relocation bracket and to drill a hole for your front track bar. Other than that things are possibly needed.
03-03-2012 09:08 AM
billybob3358 Do I really NEED all that for a 2.5in spring lift
03-03-2012 08:03 AM
GoldenSahara00 I believe the question is need.
03-03-2012 08:00 AM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by wwch99tj View Post
Bumpstop extensions, modification of front track bar, rear adjustable track bar AND relocation bracket
fixed it for you

also, longer sway bar links and possibly longer front brake lines.
03-03-2012 04:40 AM
wwch99tj Bumpstop extensions, adjustable front track bar, rear adjustable track bar or relocation bracket
03-03-2012 12:54 AM
billybob3358
What do i need????

If I get a 2.5in lift with shocks is there anything else I will need

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