|03-03-2013 11:43 PM|
So, today I got as far as prepping half of the wiring needed. I was on the fence between going with crimping and soldering. At the end I figured that soldering would definitely give me good contact on the long run.
and here is how the new one looks installed - cant really tell the difference
and that's where I wrapped it up for today.
NOTES: when buying cable lugs make sure they fit in everywhere you're planing to use them - O'Reilly's copper lugs are strong but will have to be trimmed a bit to fit in that sleeve on the alternator.
|03-03-2013 11:34 PM|
To make a couple of notes on the post before, before you start make sure you have enough gas, soldering paste, and solder. It takes a ton of it to deal with those cables. I used 2Ga for the "+" from the alternator back to the battery and 1-0Ga for the ground wires (there are three of those - alternator>block, block>battery, head>body) but at the end you get a dead grip (if you did it right). No lost connection, etc.
In any case, the replacement I got was from 98 DAKOTA (O'Relly part number 05-0442).
It is slightly larger than the original but that is not a problem. It fits right in. The two things that are different are the pulley (6 grooves on original vs. 7 grooves on replacement)
and the protective sleeve on the positive terminal is clocked completely differently.
The position is determined by a pin on the bottom part of it so you'd have to use your old one to keep the direction of the wire.
... to be continued ...
|03-03-2013 11:11 PM|
So here is a set of pix from today
To begin with, this is the stuff you will need if you decide to go my route - full upgrade of ground wires and a protected line directly back to the battery with soldered on cable lugs (not crimped on).
After reading countless comments about this type of swaps I was ready for the "War of the Ages" with pulley removal on my old one but to my complete surprise it didn't put up a fight ... at all. I suppose a good impact is a good negotiation tool
... to be continued
|03-02-2013 09:13 PM|
I just realized that its been a year since I've posted anything here ... and so I don't completely forget about it my YJ periodically reminds me by throwing a project at me ... rather very unexpectedly and even less convenient . This time it's the alternator. I had it on my to-do list to upgrade it for future toys but at this point it's rather "fix it or screw you" so, here I am going from original (90 Amp) to the one from 98 Grand Cherokee (136 Amp). As much as I'm happy to get it upgraded there are things to do before the thing goes on and starts working - the wiring is nearly 20 years old and rated to handle 90 Amp alternator. After some research time I got wires to replace (0Ga for ground wires and 2Ga for a separate line from the new alternator directly to the "+" of the battery), 135 Amp circuit breaker, new battery terminals to accommodate a whole bunch of wires coming there, and the new alternator.
Side Note: there are guys who do not upgrade the wiring at all, or just throw a solid unfused line from the alternator to the battery and call it a day, etc. Call me over-paranoid if you'd like but I figure that if I'm putting a bigger alternator in at some point (obviously not always) it might pump out enough to fry whatever little electronics that YJ has on it. In that case I might as well through another $40 for a breaker (BTW some guys just use a 135Amp fuse and then is even cheaper) and wires and have it protected correctly. Just a thought.
The pix will follow shortly
|03-05-2012 10:47 PM|
|03-05-2012 10:32 PM|
|screech1||how is the light pattern? does it shine pretty far out since its right on the hood? i will have to flip my hi lift over to make em work. i like the idea of em being protected in there.|
|03-05-2012 07:19 AM|
Amazon. Blazer fog lights re774c model. But now I'd rather go with different ones purely because of the optics construction. Mine do not have it at all. Clear glass. Check Pilot PL2055C.
|03-05-2012 01:42 AM|
|screech1||where did you get those lights? i didnt really like the lights there at first, but its really growing on me. i too built brackets and have my hi lift up there. now i think i should make a light bar for it. would be easy now. props. looks good so far!|
|03-04-2012 05:43 PM|
A little cleaning project
... and after
|01-18-2012 10:41 AM|
|60mg||The H1 style|
|01-18-2012 10:21 AM|
Awsome job !!1 im getting ready to do a windshield light bar also but i was lights like you got and i want them under the bar reather then on top i see a few like that and they turned out good cant wait to see what you do !!
|01-17-2012 11:07 PM|
and here is some more ...
I understand that it was serious overkill to go with 1/4" sheets for mounts and 3/16 for light bar but I got me a very heavy super duty thing there. I think god forbid it will work as a guard (I wish I never have a chance to check that ) I'll make a bunch god closeup pics as soon as I'm done with wiring harness and clips to have it secured on the light bar. I'm not planning to wire it in just yet as it is a part of a bigger project involving overhead console windshield lights, front roof rack lights, and roof rack mounted reverse lights, so I'll be posting as I'm going through with it. Now it's some time for necessities - my clutch is about to retire
|01-17-2012 10:56 PM|
here aresome in-progress pix
|01-17-2012 03:30 PM|
|01-17-2012 11:35 AM|
Love the light bar just put one on mine but i still got to get lights what size lights did you use ? could you get me a close pic of your light bar please?
|01-16-2012 07:30 AM|
|01-16-2012 01:21 AM|
When I installed my RC lift on my old YJ, the dropped pitman arm they sent me didn't fit right on the sector shaft, and the front end pinion angle was off by 2 degrees. Both of those things caused lots of steering problems.
|01-16-2012 12:08 AM|
|yjkid95||I like the new dirt|
|01-15-2012 11:32 PM|
And the old lights get recycled as well. Nothing's been left behind
Here is before and after
|01-15-2012 11:30 PM|
|60mg||So I finally got some time to come back to some of my creative projects (something other than fixing necessities) and figured it would be nice to finally hang my jack somewhere instead just letting it keep on flying around the trunk. So with that task in mind I visited my local welding shop and had them bent me two strips of 1/4" sheet metal. Wile doing all of that I thought it would be nice to have a light bar with the jack mount, so a short visit to home depot had resolved the issue. To make a long story short, after few visits to local hardware stores I ended up with this|
|12-18-2011 08:46 PM|
So today I get a surprise call from my buddy that's complaining about hitting his head constantly on a Tuffy overhead console he has installed in his CJ (just to mention he is 6'2" ) and asking if I want it. It's hard to say no to an offer like that. So, I get home and put it in just to realize that I truly hate the way they had it set up. After that I get me a new toy to play with
Should be fun to play with. An antenna is next on the list along with a custom mounting bracket as well as gutting out the Tuffy console and making a custom face plate out of 16ga sheet of steel. Interesting
|11-28-2011 12:20 PM|
|60mg||I got me a full exhaust for my YJ (mine can be used for draining spaghetti ) off of i6. So I looked AR them and they look completely the same so I decided to go ahead with the change. Boy, was I wrong. Although they look completely identical they are not. The down pipe in particular. The stretch that has oxygen sensor on it (right below the manifold clamp) has different angles for turns, the hanger although got in but needed to be aligned better, and the best - the flange is a lot bigger so it can't fit between the mounting bolts. After all I ended up cutting that part of the i6 down-pipe and using an extension to couple it up with the old one cut the same way (ill post the pix later today) To add more to excitement I came to realize the differences 10min before store closing, which is 25 min away. so I got stuck at the shop with a not finished jeep and nothing to get back home on it was fun getting back home|
|11-23-2011 08:37 AM|
|11-22-2011 11:39 PM|
|60mg||Just finished a total rework of my brakes. What a nightmare. I keep on wondering if anything has ever been done to this YJ at all. In any case, as I was putting together rear axle brakes I was profoundly swearing loud enough for my neighbors to hear that and join on on the swearing. the only thought that was running through my head was - damn it! Go get 8.8 axle! NOW!!! So, I suppose that's my next big project. but while all of that is in works I got me a brand new brakes . Good before winter|
|11-22-2011 09:45 PM|
|BeaverJeeper||dude awesome jeep! my TJ is that color, but i didn't know YJ's came in Seanna pearl as well! too cool.|
|11-19-2011 11:41 PM|
|11-19-2011 10:27 PM|
|11-19-2011 05:48 PM|
|Bear94||after reading your thread I now know what I want to do with my current yj or, if I sell this one, my next yj. Can you give me and aproximate Price of all of this?|
|11-19-2011 04:49 PM|
It's been a while since the last post but here is something new for a grand total of $300
$70 - rims
$220 - wheels
+ $20 for two sprays of bedliner which turned those rims into
Can't wait to try 'em
|07-12-2011 06:50 PM|
|60mg||This weekend I got a free fender to replace mine. So I started prepping it and found a hole of a decent size at the bottom of the panel. So I was wondering in light of that, is this a standard issue with YJs and I should get ready to do the same with another fender? The original plan was clean it up, undercoat it, and paint it. I hate to come back to things ones I'm done with them so I try to do them write the first time. For now I took it apart and got it ready for wire wheel.|
|This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|