|09-17-2014 11:34 AM|
|can haz jeep||I think all my vents are clogged with mud. Not looking forward to this but looks like it's do this myself or pay an arm and a leg to have a shop do it. (I don't have a garage).|
|09-09-2014 11:19 AM|
Hi, sorry for not seeing this sooner. I don't get on here much these days. Unfortunately, I really don't know what it is for. Hopefully you have it figured out by now..
|05-14-2014 03:14 PM|
|samt||In your second thumbnail can you tell me what that connector is for. I am installing a dash that a relative took out with no labels. I see the female but can't seem to find the male connector. I have a 97 wrangler AT 4.0. It cranks but does not start. Trying to rule out the ECM. Thanks|
|12-21-2013 06:57 PM|
To make a quick little editorial note that might be helpful, here is a diagram of the vacuum actuators and which doors they operate: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...-actuators.jpg
The actuator labeled "Panel/Demist Door Actuator" operates the vent right above the radio. From the website where I get the door levers from it is PN 5014108AA, which is the shorter arm on the left in the picture in post #3.
The one labeled "Defroster Door" is obviously for the windshield defroster. It requires the longer arm which is PN 4886086AB
|06-30-2013 09:03 PM|
If you find an easier way, I'd love to hear about it!
|06-09-2013 08:26 AM|
Jeep Air dash removal
Has a great how to remove dash.
|06-06-2013 09:45 PM|
|bryanpmorgan||omfg thank you!!! you just made my tub swap so much easier!|
|02-28-2013 10:26 PM|
Great writeup! I will be doing two things behind the dash this weekend- L.E.D's in the gauges and HVAC and I need to replace my blend door actuator arms.
Is there an easier less extensive way to do that work than what is shown here?
Thank you very much!
|11-13-2012 10:59 AM|
|mnatl||I've used this write up in the past and wanted to say thank you! save me headache and some time too.|
|09-06-2012 10:28 AM|
|okranger6||Thanks for this great write up, I have been putting off doing the removel for a airbox problem. Now I'm off to the shop...|
|06-30-2012 08:02 PM|
I followed your writeup to pull and rebuild my heater box. I never would have had the nerve to try this without your excellent instructions. It worked out well.
|03-05-2012 03:29 PM|
|03-05-2012 01:17 PM|
|Rafikie||Nice write up|
|03-05-2012 10:45 AM|
|03-05-2012 10:42 AM|
Additional Pictures for Dashboard Removal
The first picture is the vacuum line connector. The one with the plastic actuator levers shows what you need to fix your doors. The one in the bag on the left is obviously shorter than the one on the right. It goes in the middle hole and operates the upper vent above the radio. The longer one goes in the top hole and operates the windshield defroster. They can both be ordered from Willys Jeep Parts, Jeep CJ Parts, Jeep Parts, Jeep Accessories. Search for "HVAC levers" and you'll find them.
|03-05-2012 10:27 AM|
awesome job...so how far into the bare tub does this get you?
I will one day either need to do some major body work to the floor boards of my jeep or swap out the tub. I'd like to go tub swap only because I can correct any issues (rust, stripped bolts, etc) before it is swapped and then have a clean slate....BUT that dash scares me, lol. seats, console, steering wheel...no prob, but taking the dash out and putting it into another seems daunting. granted I've gotten somewhat deep into mine, just never had it loose to pull out.
|03-05-2012 10:15 AM|
When I started this write-up there was a lot more I wanted to do with it. I wanted it to be as thorough and detailed as possible, but there's just too much other stuff to do to worry about that. So for the sake of getting it out there for anyone who's needing some guidance, I'm accepting the fact that it's not perfect and posting it anyway. I hope somebody can find some benefit from it.
Philips screwdriver (a stubby one is also helpful)
1 or 2 small flat screwdrivers
Metric and SAE socket set + 6 or 8 inch extension
Flashlight or headlight
a black Sharpie, a silver Sharpie
The first thing to do is disarm the airbag system. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. After two minutes this will disarm the system.
To take out the dash you will first need to take out the steering column. To do so, start by removing the steering column cover and knee blocker panels from under the column. There are only a couple screws holding these in place. Be mindful that you will need to pull the first one off the headlight switch shaft.
Once that’s out of the way, turn the headlights on and reach inside the opening to the top of the headlight switch. Feel for a small button. With the shaft pulled all the way out, press and hold this button and pull the shaft out of the switch. In reality I don’t think the shaft needs to be removed, but doing so prevents it from getting bent or broken off.
With that taken care of, remove the plastic shroud from around the column. There are three screws coming up through the bottom that hold the two halves together. If you’ve got a service manual you might notice it tells you to remove the ignition lock cylinder. I couldn’t get mine out so I left it in and it caused absolutely no problems.
If you have a tilting steering wheel, find the cable attached to the tilt lever and disconnect it. This makes it easier to remove the electrical connectors from the column. This is where the masking tape and Sharpies come in. When it comes time to reassemble everything, it’s not hard to figure out where the connectors go based on where they hang from the harness, but if you’re the least bit unsure it’s smart to label everything. Put a piece of masking tape on each connector and a piece on the spot where it plugs in. Then write a number on the connector and the same number where it plugs in. This way you just simply match up the numbers when it’s time to put it together. Sometimes, instead of putting a piece of tape on everything, you can simply write the number on the connector itself and near the spot where it plugs in.
Now, my Hayne’s manual recommends removing the steering wheel to prevent damaging the airbag clockspring. To me it seemed smarter to leave it on. So what I did was turn the wheel until it locked in place. Then I turned the key on so I could turn it a little farther, that way it naturally rested in the middle of the locked position when released instead of wanting to pull back to one side.
Now that all the connectors are unplugged from the column you can start unbolting it. First take out the 13mm pinch bolt that connects the column to the intermediate steering shaft. The bolts and nuts holding the column in were pretty dang tight, so it might help to find a bar of some sort to get you more leverage. I used the handle from a ╝ ton floor jack and pulled the rubber grip off the end. It’s usually just big enough to slip over the end of a ratchet. Next I took out the two nuts (13mm) attaching it to the middle brace. For these I used a couple extensions put together and stuck them through the column opening. This way I had room to stick the jack handle on the ratchet and turn it. After the middle nuts you take out the two near the steering wheel (13mm) attaching it to the top brace. When those are off you’re ready to take out the column. To do this, lower it down off the top two studs and pull it back off the middle two studs. It should slide right off of the intermediate shaft. Once it is off, though, the steering wheel will turn extremely easy. You want to prevent it from turning as much as possible to keep from damaging the clockspring. If you locked it in place as I said earlier it will only be limited to an inch or two in either direction and should be fine.
If for some reason you want to remove the steering wheel, you will have to take out the airbag module. Be sure you’ve disconnected the negative battery cable. Then, there is one bolt (8mm I think) on each side of the back of the steering wheel to take out. Then it comes right off. There are two wires connected to the back of it—the smaller one is for the horn, the larger one is for the airbag. The yellow connector for the airbag simply plugs straight into the back of the module. You might gently pry it upwards with a small screwdriver. Just be gentle so as to avoid damaging it in any way.
With the column out you can now set to work actually taking out the dashboard. Here is where the book leaves you hanging. It simply says “unplug all electrical connectors,” but gives no indication as to which ones. This is probably because it may vary with each vehicle depending on year and options. All I know is a little guidance would have been nice because I ended up unplugging things that didn’t need it and missing everything that did. Most of the ones you need to unplug can actually be reached with the dash still in place.
First, on the far left side, down behind the pedals, you should see where the wiring harness comes through the firewall. There should be a gray plug that comes down from the dash and connects in right next to the firewall. There is a tab on top of the female half that needs to be pressed down. With that depressed it pulls apart rather easily.
Next, near the same spot, between the last plug and the dashboard you should see a big block of connectors with some nice colors on the side. Each plug that plugs in here is a different color and corresponds with the color on the side of the block. You’ll need to unplug the top three—gray, green, and red/pink. Squeeze the tabs on each side and wiggle them out.
Now move to the middle of the Jeep. If you’ve got a center console, it will make a nice seat for much of what follows. At some point the book tells you to disconnect the air blender door cable, but fails to explain how. To do this you have to remove the trim covering all the A/C, heater controls. There are three screws holding this in place—two on top, and one behind the ash tray. Look on top near the bottom of the windshield and you will see the dash cover piece that spans the width of most of the dashboard. To access the top two screws this needs to come out. Using a flat screwdriver (or pocket knife blade like me), simply pry the cover up until the push tabs pop out. There are four of them. After taking these out you should be able to pop it out pretty easily. Then take out the four screws holding the heater controls and pull it out until you can access the back. On the back you should see a cable that probably has a foam type covering on it and a red plastic tab that pushes into the housing. With your little screwdriver push this red tab down from the top until it pops out. Then slide the hot/cold air selector all the way to the left until you can see the hook the cable attaches to. Unhook it. Now put the assembly back in the dash.
Now we move to the right side. You may or may not want to take out the passenger seat. I did. It gives you some room to move around and will make carrying the dash out easier, especially if you’re by yourself. To start you need to take out the glove box. My Jeep is a ’98 and has the strap you slip out of the box. There are two nuts that can be seen once the box is out. These hold the bottom of the passenger airbag to the firewall and need to be removed.
With the glove box out, look through the opening to the upper left area. You should see a bright yellow connector. This is the connector for the passenger side airbag. Unplug it. Right next to that is a corrugated type tube—it is the air duct for the side window defroster. Pull this off the smooth ducting on the left. Maybe yours is like mine was—not connected at all. Below the yellow plug and air duct there is a strand of multi-colored tubes with a foam covering around them. These are the vacuum lines that operate the actuators for all the vent doors you’re trying to fix. On the bottom of the white connector is a tab that has to be pulled away from the connector before it can be separated. You’ll probably hear air leaking as you pull it apart. This is okay.
At this point you reach the one that caused me the most frustration. Just off the bottom right corner of the fuse panel are two connectors mounted on the air box housing. The one on the right with braided covering is what we’re dealing with. The red plastic thing on the front is actually the key to separating this one. You have to push the red tab to the left. Then there is a tab on the front of the top piece you need to push down on while pulling it apart. On the flip-side, you have to plug it back together before the tab can be pushed back to the right.
If you’re still following along, you’ve finally made it to the good part—taking out the dash. On each edge of the dash, near the door hinges, there are three T30 torx bolts that need to come out. Remove them.
After that, back up on top, there are four nuts (10mm) that attach the top of the dash to the firewall just under the windshield frame. They are kind of hidden down in the gap between the windshield and the top of the dash. If you look back there you’ll see them though. Take these off.
Once those four are removed, position yourself in the middle of the Jeep. With your left hand under the instrument cluster and the right under the passenger side airbag, lift up on the dashboard until it clears the four studs on top. It will still have the antenna wire connected to the radio so do not pull it back too far. Set the dash down on the console just in front of the shifter. You should be able to balance it so it will lean against your body and allow you to lean over the top of it to get to the last wire.
The last wire looks just like the hot/cold air cable. It should be plugged into the radio and should pull straight out. With that done, make one last check to see that everything is unplugged. If so, put your hands back where they were when you pulled it off and carry it out of the Jeep. If you are by yourself this is where you want the passenger seat removed. If you’ve got a helper it might not be an issue. Just do what you think will work best.
And then, to quote those wise words we all love so much, “Installation is the reverse of removal.”