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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-17-2012 07:54 AM
year1camaro
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master4th View Post
Is that big box that has the inline fuse on top of it the Power distribution/Fuse box thats on the 90 - 95s?
Yes. I cut off the mount for it from the battery tray and welded it back on. Sits nearly like factory again.
03-16-2012 05:08 PM
Master4th Is that big box that has the inline fuse on top of it the Power distribution/Fuse box thats on the 90 - 95s?
03-16-2012 05:04 PM
year1camaro
Complete

I finished the install yesterday. Everything works real nice. I can have either battery connected to the charging system, both or none connected. Plus I barely spent any money

Battery $72.00
Switches where $16.00 x2
Power block $free 99 (friend had it lying around his job)
Modified stock battery tray $free 99
1 day working on the Jeep......Priceless

03-13-2012 05:54 AM
year1camaro Thanks Bro
03-12-2012 10:32 AM
Master4th Nice work
03-12-2012 09:41 AM
year1camaro I got the batt. tray completed and painted. My friend gave me this quick wiring diagram so I can get the nessesary cables to complete the install.

03-10-2012 06:28 PM
year1camaro
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master4th View Post
Check out car stereo websites, you can purchase a battery isolator so that your batteries don't try to charge each other up all the time.

My suggestion is go with a battery disigned for long discharge instead. Like a kinetik
Kinetik High Current Power Cells
These batteries are designed for use with large stereo amplifiers and have some great amp hours. Another plus is its completely sealed so you don't have to worry about it leaking.

If your set on dual batteries look for The Install Bay IB500 500 Amp Battery Isolator and Relay (ib-500)
These are great for isolating a second battery if you wan't it to remain charged by the alternator but only wan't it to be used for winch or stereo.
Thank you for your advise. I don't want to use soleniods or smart chargers for my application. I don't trust the amp ratings or quality of that system as I've heard about welded soleniods and smart chargers failing. This is far more simpler and less prone to break down. I just need to remember to alternate which battery i use everyday to keep both charged.
Depending on what switch is on, that is the battery being used and charged. The other will just be off and isloated. But I will also be able to jump the primary battery with the secondary by having both switches on making it both batts in use and charging. It's all in the wiring with these two 1000amp switches and a power distribution block. How it's being wired is on my friend the electrician. lol. But I will post a wiring diagram for this in the future.
03-10-2012 06:08 PM
Master4th Check out car stereo websites, you can purchase a battery isolator so that your batteries don't try to charge each other up all the time.

My suggestion is go with a battery disigned for long discharge instead. Like a kinetik
Kinetik High Current Power Cells
These batteries are designed for use with large stereo amplifiers and have some great amp hours. Another plus is its completely sealed so you don't have to worry about it leaking.

If your set on dual batteries look for The Install Bay IB500 500 Amp Battery Isolator and Relay (ib-500)
These are great for isolating a second battery if you wan't it to remain charged by the alternator but only wan't it to be used for winch or stereo.
03-10-2012 05:34 PM
year1camaro
Dual Battery Tray Build

I started building the dual battery tray today. I used the existing tray and just added to it. I used the bed frame idea for metal. I also try to recycle as much of the old tray as possible which worked out real nice. I cut up the firewall straps and rewelded them with some spacers at the top to make up for the width.

Then I cut the fuse & relay block holder in two places. Then I welded the relay block holder back on the new tray .

Then welded the main wire harness support loops back to the side of the tray. The scrap from between the two I used to make a switch mount for the 1000amp battery cut offs.


While the paint dries and until the power distribution block arrives I'll contemplate the battery hold down. I took a few hours but I did a lot of bead welding instead of just spot. And because my welding has something to be desired it took alot of grinding too. Its strong thou. Before I painted it I stood on it in the jeep and I weight 200lbs.
I'll post up more pics as I progress.
03-05-2012 07:27 PM
ballistx
Goop

The goop is just after you have a flat. Tire people do not like it when you just use it.

The duct/electricians tape and spray lube are the critical. Can fix ANYTHING.. If it moves, and shouldn't, use the tape. If it don't move, and should, use the spray lube.
03-05-2012 05:27 PM
denisbaldwin I got the 200 amp mean green and paid about $280 for it shipped (from eBay). It was some hot rod source in Cali that got a bunch in.
03-05-2012 05:15 PM
year1camaro
Quote:
Originally Posted by denisbaldwin View Post
I'm going through this same mess right now. I ended up going with a nice dual battery tray, dual DieHard Platinums and a Mean Green 200Amp Alternator. Should be awesome when it's done.
daaaam, you got the mean green....I wish
How many amps & $?
I got the 136 amp grand cherokee for 150.00
03-05-2012 09:30 AM
denisbaldwin I'm going through this same mess right now. I ended up going with a nice dual battery tray, dual DieHard Platinums and a Mean Green 200Amp Alternator. Should be awesome when it's done.
03-05-2012 06:41 AM
year1camaro
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballistx View Post
Check all the LITTLE CRAP. That is what Murphy relies on. Hose clamps, hoses, frayed wires, cracked vaccuum lines. Make sure you have duct tape and electricians tape, a few extra hose clamps, spray lube, typical tools, flashlights, etc.

You aren't going to recharge a battery enough to start with the 1.5W solar. That is just enough to replace the natural leakage of the battery. If worried about restarting with a manual, just park where you can get a short run at it.

Probably want to take along a can of tire goop in case you get a leak. If you don't have an on board air compressor the old bicycle pumps do actually work. Better than walking 10 miles.

BIGGEST thing is to be observant and don't get into the situations that yield those problems. Avoidance is the absolute best fix. It is far different going out trying to find challenges than taking any unneccessary risks then in a situation where there isn't any help. BTDT.
Very true on all points. I won't be taking unnessary risks. To scary. I hear ya on the solar. I wouldnt buy something like that from harbor freight anyhow. I did think of a few things you mention except the vacum lines. I'll need to go over them. My 4wd light stay on for days sometimes but it's not in 4x4, and I know thats vacum. I'm running 6 ply tires but the goop couldnt hurt. Thanks for your advice and tips thou.
03-05-2012 06:34 AM
ballistx
little CRAP

Check all the LITTLE CRAP. That is what Murphy relies on. Hose clamps, hoses, frayed wires, cracked vaccuum lines. Make sure you have duct tape and electricians tape, a few extra hose clamps, spray lube, typical tools, flashlights, etc.

You aren't going to recharge a battery enough to start with the 1.5W solar. That is just enough to replace the natural leakage of the battery. If worried about restarting with a manual, just park where you can get a short run at it.

Probably want to take along a can of tire goop in case you get a leak. If you don't have an on board air compressor the old bicycle pumps do actually work. Better than walking 10 miles.

BIGGEST thing is to be observant and don't get into the situations that yield those problems. Avoidance is the absolute best fix. It is far different going out trying to find challenges than taking any unneccessary risks then in a situation where there isn't any help. BTDT.
03-04-2012 11:09 AM
year1camaro
Quote:
Originally Posted by bc3_Jeep View Post
1.5 Watt Solar Battery Charger

How you gonna call if your cell phone AND single battery are dead????
oooo, that is cheap. Dual battery not single thou. I'm definetly gonna have a spare. it just gonna be hooked up under the hood on 1000amp switches. The alternator will charge both on alternating days is all. So they stay charged. Jeep will only run on one at a time. One will be on reserve and charged from being used the previous day. That was joke btw. I'm fairly certain most of the areas i might be will have no cell service to begin with. I was just sayin what is a charged battery gonna do for me if the engine blows. It's gonna be a hike out no matter what. I'll just have to pray to the jeep gods that does not happen.
I bought the dual battery tray and two 1000amp switches. I'll be able to run acc. on one battery and if I kill it by accident just flip the switches and start it on the other. Flip em back to charge the dead one. Simple. Cheap. I also bought the 98 grand cherokee 136 amp alternator and will be keep the 90 amp as a spare in the bed. Just in case.
The 4.0 sounds amazing, trans feels good. all new u joints, ball joints. new radiator and hoses. What can go wrong?,,,,,,,,lol......famous last words.
03-04-2012 09:17 AM
bc3_Jeep
I stand behind what I said.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by year1camaro View Post
Solar panels are cheaper than switches? Where have I been? I think your confused over what I'm using It's just two batteries and two 16.00 switches. I already have one battery. And if the engine fails well....I'm not gonna need a battery. I'll need a taxi and a tow truck.

1.5 Watt Solar Battery Charger

How you gonna call if your cell phone AND single battery are dead????
03-04-2012 07:15 AM
ballistx
120vdc

To do it you need an externally regulated alternator. You just apply full 12vdc to the field and the generator will put out "about" 120VDC. Anything that plugs into 120VAC and has a brush type motor should run OK.

brent in az: I believe the 327 was an AMC motor and the 350 was the Buick. I also had a 69 Super Wagoneer (NEVER should have sold that ) that had the 350 Buick in it. Also had a 64 with the 6cyl.

I am working towards setting up another hunting rig. My plan is that it will be a 1986-87 J10 pickup. Just have to scrape together the money and then find a good one.
03-04-2012 06:26 AM
year1camaro
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballistx View Post
You can take the old one as a spare, but it has the regulator in the ECM. That is why I specified to get one with the internal regulator. You can get an old one with external regulator. That is what I did but only so I could switch it and get 120VDC to run any brush type equipment, such as such as electric drills, etc.
I see.....that's a pretty cool idea.
03-04-2012 06:24 AM
year1camaro
Quote:
Originally Posted by bc3_Jeep View Post
From a TRULY "backup" kind of mindset, I would place the "spare" battery elsewhere in the vehicle and hook it up to a SOLAR charger. This would allow you to charge the battery EVEN IN THE EVENT of a complete engine failure.

If you are really looking for a "failsafe".... that is the answer and WAY cheaper than what you are looking into.
Solar panels are cheaper than switches? Where have I been? I think your confused over what I'm using It's just two batteries and two 16.00 switches. I already have one battery. And if the engine fails well....I'm not gonna need a battery. I'll need a taxi and a tow truck.
03-03-2012 11:02 PM
Frenz Battery Specialists Hickory PA. 724 356 2200 ask John.

These guys know everything battery related and handle the steel, coal, gas, power generation, heavy equipment, transportation, and golf cart industries in the tri-state area for like 20 years.

I like the way BC thinks.
03-03-2012 10:39 PM
bc3_Jeep From a TRULY "backup" kind of mindset, I would place the "spare" battery elsewhere in the vehicle and hook it up to a SOLAR charger. This would allow you to charge the battery EVEN IN THE EVENT of a complete engine failure.

If you are really looking for a "failsafe".... that is the answer and WAY cheaper than what you are looking into.
03-03-2012 10:09 PM
brent in az HIJACK:
"I had my 66 Wagoneer with the 327...."

As an FSJ addict and J10 owner I have to comment that a Kaiser 66 Waggy was the last year of the Buick 327's before Kaiser stopped buying from Buick when upstart AMC (just an engine builder at the time; not a car company) entered the market with 302's and 360's and later the 401. The Buick slant-6's (and 327s) are legendary for toughness. I have the 360 and it's a workhorse. Congrats on your piece of history when engineering was king---and yes I have to manually lock my hubs, too!
03-03-2012 09:14 PM
ballistx
take as spare

You can take the old one as a spare, but it has the regulator in the ECM. That is why I specified to get one with the internal regulator. You can get an old one with external regulator. That is what I did but only so I could switch it and get 120VDC to run any brush type equipment, such as such as electric drills, etc.
03-03-2012 07:24 PM
year1camaro
Quote:
Originally Posted by brent in az View Post
I have nothing to add to this fascinating informative thread except comment on the original poster's sentiment: " I'll be on the road for about a month exploring very desolate places in this great country of ours.."

That's what it's all about baby! That's what makes jeep headaches worth it. If I got paid "for exploring desolate places" in my jeep then I'd have two jeeps by now...
I can't wait dude. I'm bringing lots of cash for the ride. But I wanna be overprepared. i'VE REPLACED ALMOST EVERY PART THAT CAN FAIL....but you know something may go wrong,.....But i don't want a dead battery to be one. Once we get to the mid west we are zig zagging up and down the counrtry.....to many things to see in this old jeep
03-03-2012 07:19 PM
year1camaro ok. so switching the batteries periodally is not a problem for me.....so that's the route i think ill go. very solid. duel aternators i might look into cause I'm definetly buying the 136amp alternator so i could use the stock 90 amp for a back up i guess.
03-03-2012 05:02 PM
ballistx
really into the rough

I guess if I were going into the really rough stuff where there wasn't any support, I would put in the solenoid and then install the master switch between both the batteries and also in the main battery cable.

I know that it is a pretty sobering feeling when there just isn't any support. About scared my BIL pantless in Canada. We were about 60 miles past the end of the road moose hunting. I had my 66 Wagoneer with the 327 and a 17 foot trailer. Him and his BIL went out of camp for awhile. I had been having trouble with the acclerator pump ball in the bottom of the bowl of the carb. So, tore the carb all apart to fix and when they came back they found it all apart beside the Jeep. Made me make a run with it aftwards to be sure it ran.

If I were going that far and that alone, I would seriously look at throwing in a 2nd alternator if there isn't A/C. It is a real easy mod, just a salvage alternator with internal regulator and new serpentine belt. Couple of pieces of angle iron will fab the mount. Just be sure to get the mounting bolts coordinated so the pulley lines up. That is the most critical aspect of the mod.
03-03-2012 03:41 PM
brent in az I have nothing to add to this fascinating informative thread except comment on the original poster's sentiment: " I'll be on the road for about a month exploring very desolate places in this great country of ours.."

That's what it's all about baby! That's what makes jeep headaches worth it. If I got paid "for exploring desolate places" in my jeep then I'd have two jeeps by now...
03-03-2012 02:57 PM
ballistx
Solenoids welding are extremely rare

The only time that a solenoid arcs is when energized, or de-energized, under extreme load. Typically you would be energizing, or de-enerizing, under virtually no load. The trouble with a master (manual) switch is you have to be continuously, manually turning it. You shouldn't leave the batteries tied together when static because they will drain across. Not critical but not a good idea.

If you do leave them tied together and something drains one, both will drain. If you leave it disconnected the 2nd battery will not be fully charged when you need it. Work through the process of using it to see how it fits to your needs.

I would have absolutely no concern about the solenoid welding from my 40 years of experience with Jeeps and being an master electrician/licensed electrical engineer.

Besides, if they did weld together, all you would have to do is to disconnect the cable to the solenoid.
03-03-2012 12:42 PM
year1camaro I'd rather stay away from solenoids and those smart battery tenders. As you stated the solenoid welded itself on your rig. I think I'm leaning towards high amp shut offs. Quadratec has 1000amp battery cutoffs from "Hella" and I'm thinking they should hold up and not weld under extreme loads. I can run one to each battery and cut off whichever I decide. Switch between batteries every other day to keep them charged.
Hella Lighting 002843011 - Hella Battery Master Switch with Key - Quadratec
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