|04-03-2012 08:35 PM|
|el guapo||sorry spunebil, only had the '89 for a year or so and just got a new one so i'm still calling it a car by habit, will work on that|
|04-03-2012 07:54 PM|
isnt tnhis a jeep forum?
Jeeps are not " cars" !
|04-03-2012 07:21 PM|
|el guapo||i had a used 89 wrangler that did something like that very frustrating to say the least. went to my mechanic and it never stalled out like it did it was an "intermittent problem". I would be driving down the highway and it would lose power altogether. I would let it sit for a while sometimes about 10-20 or 30 minutes and it would start again. he put in new distributor cap 1st. then a new carbuerator. then it continued to stall so I took it to a dealer who did a tune up and some other stuff, timing belt i think. They washed it for me before giving it back to me and before it was off the lot it stalled again. I told them what happened and the guy who was doing the wash helped me out. While the car was running he took the hose and fired it right at the "ignition box" behind the drivers side dash board and it cut all power. they replaced this item and the problem was solved.|
|03-13-2012 12:19 PM|
|MickeYJ||That makes sense|
|03-13-2012 12:17 PM|
It's worth it once a year to go over your engine and replace any hoses, vacuum lines, etc. if the ends feel 'stiff' or show cracks, expansion of the hose, burnt or melted sections...I've found them all. Hoses get too close to the manifold or exhaust line and melt, vibrations from a hose against metal rubbing wears a hole, age sets in and things start to crack or expand, well worth taking the time every spring to go over everything!
If you can't do the replacement or don't know how, at least you know what to tell a mechanic to look at! And I've also learned...if one radiator hose is bad, replace BOTH of them-they're the same age!
|03-13-2012 12:03 PM|
|03-13-2012 12:01 PM|
|STUUPID||Code 12 is battery disconnect code. If the battery has been disconnected since last key cycle code 12 will show. My 94 throws those same three codes every time. 12/33/55 for the 16 years I have owned it. I have a battery disconnect switch since I have no key switch. 33 shows because there is no AC hooked up. 55 is end of code display cycle.|
|03-12-2012 01:58 PM|
|MickeYJ||Oooh thank u that Makes sense. So far it's working good With The new TPS|
|03-12-2012 01:56 PM|
Vacuum leak means that somewhere in your engines components there is a broken vacuum connection. When your engine is running, it's sucking air in through the intake. Well, part of the suction it creates is sent out to numerous components that monitor the engines functions. One of them is the MAP Sensor, which detects just how much vacuum pressure there is and adjusts the engines functions according to this vacuum pressure.
If the vacuum pressure is too low (from a broken line or a bad fitting) it creates a vacuum leak, so the engine actually is sucking in more air than is necessary. This can cause all kinds of problems from erratic idle, a revving engine, sputtering, etc. ESPECIALLY if the vacuum line in question leads to the MAP sensor. When it senses a drop in pressure it tells the computer that the engine is dying and needs to take action to prevent it. Which can cause your sputtering issues. So I suggest checking the vacuum lines between the intake manifold and the MAP sensor.
|03-12-2012 01:01 PM|
|03-12-2012 11:05 AM|
|Nubby55||check your vacuum lines for cracks or broken spots.|
|03-12-2012 05:09 AM|
The vacuum is leaking (ok sorry i am a smartass this morning lol)
|03-11-2012 09:00 PM|
|MickeYJ||And what do you mean by "there's a vacuum leak"|
|03-11-2012 08:59 PM|
|03-11-2012 08:50 PM|
|Xpress||Code 12 does not exist... Should be code 11 or Code 13. Code 33 and 55 don't mean anything. MAP sensor vacuum is easy, just replace the tubing between the MAP sensor and the manifold, there is a vacuum leak (which could cause misfire).|
|03-11-2012 08:32 PM|
|03-11-2012 08:11 PM|
|03-11-2012 08:10 PM|
So I bought myself a Haynes... Torx things and the TPS and replaced it myself. Test driving as I'm typing (shhhhh)
So far so good....
|03-11-2012 07:46 PM|
|VinceTj||That simple :O just cycling he key to have our code?|
|03-11-2012 03:18 PM|
So I found this and did it and came back with codes 12/33/55
code 12 I looked it up on google
Here's what code 12 is..
|03-11-2012 12:58 PM|
Not my jeep but this exactly what mine does!!
|03-10-2012 06:25 PM|
|VinceTj||been there done that|
|03-10-2012 06:16 PM|
|Master4th||I was just remembering my 2.5L would get low on gas and when I would corner hard it would sputter and stuble for a few secs and then be fine.|
|03-10-2012 06:15 PM|
|VinceTj||try to drink a coffe while driving AND staying clean lol|
|03-10-2012 05:40 PM|
|03-10-2012 05:38 PM|
|VinceTj||Really? never notice it|
|03-10-2012 04:54 PM|
|03-10-2012 04:50 PM|
I call bs until we see some video of this "engine hesitation"
|03-10-2012 01:37 PM|
|MickeYJ||So I'm driving around and nothing yet. Just filled up with premium and added an STP fuel injector cleaner, let's see what happens lol|
|03-10-2012 12:39 PM|
Wow! Just .... WOW!!!!
The mechanic said he drove it and his mechanic drove it all day yesterday... And NOTHING!!! He's came to pick me up in my Jeep and wants to see me drive it and see if it does it. I just drove him to a Honda dealer like 10 miles away on freeway and street and NOTHING!!!!
I seriously feel stupid.
|This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|