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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-13-2012 08:08 PM
Master4th See my post in your other thread.
03-13-2012 07:42 PM
Mburkey Something is either draining the battery or the battery isn't receiving a charge. I'm going in circles. New alt, wires test good, put in new battery and it drained too and wouldn't recharge. Any new ideas? Starter? Selenoid?
03-12-2012 08:34 AM
Mburkey '94 YJ
Please help me restore their smiles
03-12-2012 08:02 AM
Mburkey Okay. The problem is I'm not sure which 12v wire is hot only on crank and run. How would I find it? For now, I have the wire bypassing the relay and going to my battery terminal and then to my distributor. So it's possible I don't have an ECM? Where would I look to see if I have an ECM so I can try to rule that out as my charging problem? Thank you.
03-12-2012 12:02 AM
Master4th I did away with those relays, computer, emission equipement when I did my 350 swap. I remember reading in another post there is a resister that drops the voltage on the distributer wire.

Here is what I did, Find a wire that is 12v with the key in the Run Position. Run that wire to your distributor or to the wire at the relay and bypass the relay. If your running a mechanical fuel pump, [The kind plugged into the engine] then you dont need the relay.

The reason it wont shut off when you wire it to the other pillar is becuase that wire is a constant 12v's you need a 12v source that turns off with the key so that when you turn the key off it stops power to the distributer.

Remember you need a wire that is 12v only in the run position. If its hot in the acc position thats a no go as well. Acc is for when you want to sit there and listen to the radio without the engine running.
03-11-2012 09:39 PM
Mburkey I've read in other posts about a PCM. Where is this located and remember this is has a 350 Chevy. I'm a frustrated mom trying to help my teen son fix his very cool Jeep.
03-11-2012 08:21 PM
Mburkey The relay is not working on crank. Temporarily we wired up a switch inside Jeep so it's always on (hot wire), so we have to use the switch to turn it off. With that switch it cranks but now the battery won't hold a charge or isn't being charged...I'm lost.
03-11-2012 08:15 PM
Mburkey yes
03-11-2012 08:05 PM
Mburkey battery tested good at parts store
03-11-2012 08:03 PM
chrisnarron Have you tested the battery?
03-11-2012 07:59 PM
Mburkey Thanks. I'm not a mechanic by no means at all. this is the first i've even tried to work on a car. have replaced the alternator, cleaned the battery ground, replaced the battery terminals...it is now cranking but the battery won't charge. I can jump it off and drive it around but after turning it off, the battery is totally dead and that's after only 10 minutes of driving. Alternator bench tested good but had it tested inside Jeep and tested at 10.4 so that's why I replaced the alternator.
03-01-2012 04:50 PM
Timberwolf by manual fuel pump, do you mean mechanical? that shouldn't even need a relay

if it's an electric pump, try different relay, it shouldn't drop to 8v
03-01-2012 02:56 PM
Garyk So it turns over but does not start??I take it the original computer has been removed. Do you have a different ECM for the chev engine or is it just wired in from the fuse box ? If its a manual fuel pump there is nothing there that would affect the start of the engine unless it quit pumping and that can be checked at the carb. Have you checked for spark at the plugs?
02-29-2012 02:18 PM
Mburkey
94 YJ turns over but won't crank

I have a 1994 Jeep YJ that suddenly won't crank. A few years ago it was converted from a 4 cyl to a Chevy 350 (is not fuel injected). There is power from battery to relay but something is not giving signal from relay to distributor. Of the 5 prongs on the fuel pump relay, if I wire it to the middle prong it cranks but won't turn off. If I have it wired to the prong it should be, it will turn over but won't crank. I've replaced the distributor cap and ignition coil even though the coil tested good. When I have it wired to the fuel pump relay as it should be, I go from 12v to 8v...is that normal? Is there a safety switch for the fuel pump (it's a manual fuel pump) that may have been tripped? If so, where is it located? My teenage son was backing it into the driveway and it died and would no longer crank. The rotor does turn. Any ideas will be appreciated!
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