|07-09-2012 10:36 AM|
To look at it from a different angle, if you were doing your own oil changes and used a different oil than recommended and a problem developed with the engine, would the dealer warrant it?
As long as there is a warranty on the powertrain, I put in the exact weight/viscosity that Chrysler says to put in it. If you can't trust the guys who designed and tested the engine who are you going to trust?
|07-09-2012 10:16 AM|
From the owner's manual:
The Scheduled Maintenance services listed in this
manual must be done at the times or mileages specified
to protect your vehicle warranty and ensure the best
vehicle performance and reliability. More frequent maintenance
may be needed for vehicles in severe operating
conditions, such as dusty areas and very short trip
8,000 Miles (13,000 km) or
6 Months Maintenance Service
Change the engine oil and engine oil
Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of
irregular wear, even if it occurs before
8,000 miles (13 000 km).
Inspect all door latches for presence of
grease, reapply if necessary.
Odometer Reading Date
Repair Order # Dealer Code
Signature, Authorized Service Center
|07-09-2012 09:17 AM|
|07-08-2012 11:59 PM|
Anyway, at the first place I don't want any problem to the engine and I don't want to deal with any queston raised about the wrong grade being used. There should be no question asked ever, if they have had done the right thing.
|07-08-2012 08:28 AM|
|07-08-2012 06:37 AM|
Just had our free oil change done - new filter and 5w-30. You can actullay watch the mechanics at our dealership. They said synthetic would be no problem as long as I paid the difference but said they do not recommend it for the first oil change.
Now this is not the first I heard about synthetic on first oil change - Ferris recommends on first oil change, to go 50% regular and 50% synthetic.
|07-08-2012 06:30 AM|
|demarpaint||I'd make them change it to the proper grade oil. That engine specs 5W30 oil and nothing else. Although it's unlikely [for one oil change] damage can result from using to thin an oil in that engine. I can't believe the lame excuses they use for a screw up. Lets look at it another way, lets say you used 5W20 in it, and the engine blew. If they did an oil analysis and found the wrong grade of oil was used you might have problems getting that engine fixed under the warranty. I'd have them change it, or refund you the money and DIY. JMO|
|07-08-2012 02:44 AM|
12 is using cartridige filter, so probably not that much old oil is there.
And at least just changing the filter alone (I guess you can just change it without draining, though not sure, as the filter is at the top, not down below) as it's cheaper than I'm going to replace the 5W-20 dealer put in with 5W-30.
|07-07-2012 05:41 PM|
Well I went in for my "free" oil change this week. When I got home I noticed the invoice listed oil and labor but no oil filter.
So I called them, thinking there was a mistake in the invoice.
The "free" oil change did not include an oil filter.
So whatever dirty oil was in the filter is still in my new engine.
I would have gladly paid for a filter, had they told me they would not be changing it. I don't understand how these places stay in business.
|07-07-2012 05:24 PM|
My 1999 S-10 pick up work truck has 306400 miles on it and uses no more oil between changes than any brand new car on the road today.
I have seen many oil posts on here I guess we do what we do for a reason we have. Did that make any since, Oh well you get it.
I get my mobil 1 in 25 gallon drums for a little more than conventional oil, 25 gallons for $288.70 from my neighbors company.
|07-07-2012 01:39 PM|
|Jakesdad||The dealer or anyone else should give you the EXACT oil you would expect to get, or EXACTLY what you ask for. It's not their decision to make any changes whatsoever unless that is discussed with the owner and agreed to beforehand. Differences in oil may sometimes be no big deal, but making any changes whatsoever without the owners prior consent is always a big deal.|
|07-06-2012 11:08 PM|
|themoonman23||speaking of oil i did mine today!|
|07-06-2012 10:07 PM|
|DJL2||I suppose I ought to check...I rolled over 3000 miles recently and the place I bought the Jeep threw in free oil changes because, according to them, the lovely state of NC mandates services conducted by a professional for a certain period of time. I heard "free" and didn't think too much else about it...hard to beat the price and all.|
|07-06-2012 10:06 PM|
You need to read Bob's the Oil Guy. Specifically his oil university stuff linked to here.
And btw - the numbers do not represent viscosity. They represent the grade of oil.
And in cold temps.... the 5W - 20 or 30 IS better for cold starts
Super interesting, educational read - highly recommended fwiw
|07-06-2012 09:54 PM|
Regardless of all of the above facts you should get what you ask and paid for.
I had a similar situation a few years ago. I considered it to be an engine flush!
|07-06-2012 09:39 PM|
|97wrangler-242||The thinnest I'll run in anything is 10w-30. Makes me feel better about the longevity of the bottom end of my motor|
|07-06-2012 09:23 PM|
|computeruser||Want it done right? Do it yourself.|
|07-06-2012 09:19 PM|
Specifically it's about the Champion Chrysler in Downey, CA.
Only after I got everything done and left for lunch, I noticed they had 5W20 on my reciept. I went back later and talked to the service manager and it's their BS started:
"We use 5W20 on all our vehicles, except synthetic that we have straight 40"
"5W20 is for HOT weather, 5W30 is for COLD weather, we're in Calfornia, so we use 5W20"
"20 is the number for WINTER, 5 is for SUMMER so, 5W20 and 5W30 are the same for summer"
"We only stock 5W20, if you want 5W30 we need to special order and have to charge you $40 for the oil change"
"5W20 is approved by Chrysler to be used"
"Is it your first NEW car?"
THAT'S INSULTING. In fact, it's my 4th in 10 years.
"Why did you do oil change for only 1500 miles"
and I said "You sent me a thank you voucher for oil change which expires 1.5 month after my purchase"
After all they refused to redo it with 5W30.
I don't really think 5W20 and 5W30 might make a big difference, though the infamous ticking thing could be a concern. The only reason I went to the dealership to do oil change is to get some oil change record and it's free, otherwise I would have done it myself, but not to expect to have a wrong grade of oil recorded.
If they can't even do the simplest job right, how can I trust them to do anything else.
|04-13-2012 02:18 PM|
|04-13-2012 01:48 PM|
|Ballandchain||Not me. I do all my own oil changes....|
|04-13-2012 01:44 PM|
|lo lo||5W 20 Synthetic is fine for your Pentastar. Biplanebob, you made a huge stink for no reason. Do your research on oil viscosity and synthetic vs semi-sythetic vs etc... That service writer probably didn't explain the differences to you clearly. I would of kept the 5W 20 Synthetic... In fact, I bet the dealer left the synthetic in, and just had you wait for an hour so you thought it was changed, unless you saw them change it...|
|03-13-2012 10:16 AM|
5W -25C, and 10W -20C
|03-13-2012 10:03 AM|
|kik||The dealer I go to only uses 5W30 now which is fine with me for my 10. I prefer it.|
|03-13-2012 10:03 AM|
Just to clear up some points.
5w-20 and 5w-30 oils have essentially the same "cold" start characteristics. The first number with the "w" is the cold start viscosity rating (typically tested well below zero - but the actual temp varies from grade to grade).
The second number is viscosity at operating temp (210 deg F). It doesn't tell you anything about cold temp properties.
Therefore, 5w-20 and 5w-30 would both fare the same in a place like Alaska (on start-up). Once up to temp, you want the oil weight recommended. However, this is typically a range as climates vary and the OEM may expect operating temp to be above 210 deg F at times. I doubt running 5w-20 would hurt anything.
|03-13-2012 09:52 AM|
|03-13-2012 09:52 AM|
|03-13-2012 09:45 AM|
5w-20 is fine, as is 5w-30. Yes, the manuals for 2011 call for 20 and the 2012 get 30, but you're fine. The 20 is a bit lighter weight, so during a cold startup, it's actually MORE beneficial to have 20 as the oil is not as "thick" or syrupy and can thus get through moving parts of your motor more easily.
A while back, I saw some really long but very informative thread explaining motor oil in great detail. It went on to explain how the science of it all comes in to play with the engineering. If its cold where you are, the 20 is actually ok. Warmer weather? I'd roll with the 30.
|03-13-2012 09:43 AM|
yeah I got the wrong oil at my Comp oil change, I made them change it to the correct grade.
You are correct in making them correct their mistake.
Chrysler put 5 W30 on the oil fill for a reason,
read about the pentastar and you will understand why Mr Mac is
not giving sound advice
|03-13-2012 09:22 AM|
Better on cold starts
|03-13-2012 09:01 AM|
The first number in the designation is the lowest viscosity and the second the highest.
The lower number could be affected by your location and ambient temperature, but the second is derived from the requirements of the engine at running temperature, which is controlled by the thermostat not the ambient temperature?
I do not understand your lack of concern, can you explain?
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