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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2013 09:24 AM
iGeorgeLee Yup, thats been done. Three times. With enormous care. The stealer dealer remarked what an exceptional job I'd done with cleaning everything. Still denied me a warranty on the alt and tensioner (but did power steering and pulleys) because the vehicle had been off road. Proof? The red shocks had their paint peeled off by dirt road stones. Inside rims scratched by little gravel stones.
08-17-2013 12:28 AM
Tweak just go to a carwash with a sprayer that goes to 50% when you let off, throw a rag in your intake and have a party.
08-16-2013 11:42 PM
iGeorgeLee Hey man,

I got the ALT, and put it in today. With a newborn, its been crazy. Thanks for sending it as promised, good deal.

Noise hasnt gone so I am clueless now. A low whining noise that rises with engine revs. New powersteering pump, new tensioner, new alternator, new idler pulleys.

I just dont know.


ps: for anyone changing tensioner, push the thing clockwise with a breakerbar and keep pushing till it compresses. Then, really easy to take belts off and put em on.
07-18-2013 08:22 AM
iGeorgeLee Sounds good to me, I'll drop you a pm.

Removing tensioner and the rest is pretty logical once you do it. Follow the link you posted earlier to remove the alternator, then removing the tensioner is easy.

Initially looks like voodoo spaghetti with all the belts etc but its seriously not challenging. Except putting it back on - not purely plug and play. Requires a little bit of muscling, but thats really what you want - nice snug belts.
07-17-2013 10:53 AM
ilikeguns
Quote:
Originally Posted by iGeorgeLee View Post
ilikeguns - did you find a resource/link on the web to help you remove the alternator? I am in the same situation almost to a "t".

I may have to remove my tensioner too - when I click on Youtube videos/ google this - this site comes up often on the older JK's/TJ's but no link to "how to do it" on the 3.6.

ps: is it possible to remove bearings from the alternator and replace just those to (hopefully) prevent a grenading of the alt?
I never actually swapped out the alternator so i have the one I bought sitting here in my spare parts bin. I bought this for $135 so if anyone needs one (it has 1k miles on it) hit me up!

I did not remove my tensioner.. just moved it to release tension and slip off the belt
07-15-2013 12:42 PM
iGeorgeLee Tensioner bearing is ok, but bolt to remove it is stripped (my torx bit just ate it up despite being well seated). So, tensioner = replace

Alternator bearing = replace. I also reckon it will be cheaper than $550 - ridiculous!
07-08-2013 12:12 PM
jklarry take it to a alternator shop and have them rebuild it, think it would be less than 550.00, just sayin
07-08-2013 11:07 AM
iGeorgeLee Thanks Bob - I got it all done - pretty simple really, but noticed that the alternator battery was squeaking a bit. Also noticed that the tensioner pulley bearing was also slightly rough.

Very easy to turn - both of them - but not smooth as I know bearings can be.

Tried to remove the tensioner bearing but my torx bit just ate that soft metal up with a bit of effort from me. Not the result I was looking for. I wonder if Mopar sealed the thread somehow. Shouldn't be of course.

Seems that the 07 and 12 alternators are also different.

edit: just to try something, I soaked the parts of the bearings (on alt/tensioner) that I could get to with WD40. It was an experiment to see if the squeaking would stop for a bit. And it did. Of course, it didnt last long, which proved the need for new bearings.
07-04-2013 05:07 PM
nwbronco I took one apart on my '07. It's a typical setup. Brass bushing in the back. The 3.6L is a bit gray with me. If the 3.8L unit fits, they are plentiful. Have a parts place check their part numbers for 07 and 12. See if they are different.

Bob K.
07-04-2013 02:02 PM
iGeorgeLee
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwbronco View Post
The missus hits the mud like it's going to be gone soon. Here rig and mine. Nothing happened to the alternator. The idler pulleys are a different story. They last maybe a couple of months and whine like a big baby before replacing them. I have friends with '12s and the 3.6l has the same issue.

Bob K.
Hey Bob,

Idler pulleys were replaced, noise still remains. Vehicle is under 10K miles, '12 Rubi.

Stealer says that the because of mud on the vehicle he wont replace under warranty. And by mud, there was a piece of mud the size of your small fingernail on the rim, and dust in the battery compartment, etc. There are scrapes on the fuel tank skid and thats his big proof that the vehicle has been "off-roaded".

I have phoned a bunch of places today (and googled a storm), and no one has replacement alternators for the 12/13 JK's. The stealership does of course, but at $550 odd I am finding that hard to swallow. He also recommends doing the tensioner, but at 380 odd, its a hard pill too.

I am inclined to put in an alternator from a crashed cars junk yard, because they are $30 all in. Are you familiar with which alternator would fit in the '12 JK? Googling is proving pretty fruitless right now.
07-04-2013 01:29 PM
nwbronco The missus hits the mud like it's going to be gone soon. Here rig and mine. Nothing happened to the alternator. The idler pulleys are a different story. They last maybe a couple of months and whine like a big baby before replacing them. I have friends with '12s and the 3.6l has the same issue.

Bob K.
07-04-2013 08:17 AM
iGeorgeLee ilikeguns - did you find a resource/link on the web to help you remove the alternator? I am in the same situation almost to a "t".

I may have to remove my tensioner too - when I click on Youtube videos/ google this - this site comes up often on the older JK's/TJ's but no link to "how to do it" on the 3.6.

ps: is it possible to remove bearings from the alternator and replace just those to (hopefully) prevent a grenading of the alt?
04-25-2013 09:58 PM
ilikeguns yeah.. hosed it out before and will do it again tomorrow. I want to see if it's possibly an idler pulley making the noise. It got dark before I had enough time to do a full inspection
04-25-2013 08:17 PM
NFRs2000NYC Same story applies. You need to liquefy the mud, have it drained (max water minimum force), rinse it again, run motor, dry it, dress/grease it with engine detailer. If problem persists, something may be damaged.
04-25-2013 07:56 PM
ilikeguns Sorry to dig up an old thread but was there ever any update to this? i have the "whine" noise after my last trip through the mud (see avatar picture). Going to hit it with the hose tomorrow and see if that gets rid of the noise.
03-15-2012 12:08 PM
TrueNorth Wouldnt a $4 can of Alternator cleaner do the trick?
03-14-2012 11:23 PM
SilverSport
Quote:
Originally Posted by tabber02 View Post
let me rephrase, you're both right. power washing is fine... BUT there are folks out there that never realized holding a power washer over something mechanical 4" away is a bad thing. and you know those folks are out there...

that's the point i was trying to make...

-bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
Agreed. Most people use their powerwasher as if they are trying to write their name in concrete with a 0 tip. When it come to mud though, the quantity of water will be the factor, and a running hose with no nozzle will deliver maximum water with minimal force. I stand by that, unless he want's to do the dishwasher thing.
I second these motions.
03-14-2012 04:27 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by tabber02 View Post
let me rephrase, you're both right. power washing is fine... BUT there are folks out there that never realized holding a power washer over something mechanical 4" away is a bad thing. and you know those folks are out there...

that's the point i was trying to make...

-bob
Agreed. Most people use their powerwasher as if they are trying to write their name in concrete with a 0 tip. When it come to mud though, the quantity of water will be the factor, and a running hose with no nozzle will deliver maximum water with minimal force. I stand by that, unless he want's to do the dishwasher thing.
03-14-2012 01:51 PM
pkmcd99 Just drive slowly through 4ft of water. Its all good.
03-14-2012 01:14 PM
tabber02
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer_JKUR View Post
Just a quick chime in - you CAN use a powerwasher "delicately" you guys know, right?
-Hammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by I8up View Post
Power washer is fine...Just Co-signing
let me rephrase, you're both right. power washing is fine... BUT there are folks out there that never realized holding a power washer over something mechanical 4" away is a bad thing. and you know those folks are out there...

that's the point i was trying to make...

-bob
03-14-2012 12:37 PM
I8up Power washer is fine...Just Co-signing
03-14-2012 10:28 AM
Hammer_JKUR Just a quick chime in - you CAN use a powerwasher "delicately" you guys know, right? No need to put the highest pressure tip 2 inches from whatever you are cleaning............just sayin'. I wouldn't put high pressure on the bearing sleeves, etc - that's common sense. Yes, the water can actually displace the grease. I wouldn't worry about it on the windings, but I would be careful around the connections, where it can be broken loose......

-Hammer
03-14-2012 09:41 AM
tabber02
Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
Actually, I wouldn't. A powerwasher may dislodge solder and connections. I would run the hose without a nozzle (maximum water to liquify the mud) then a medium stream to rinse. Repeat until water runs 100% clean. Close hood, and let truck run and get hot under the hood. After you run it hot for a few minutes, let it cool. Then, spray some under hood dressing (CD2 Engine detailer is the best) to "grease" the parts. Let it set, and you should be golden.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bc3_Jeep View Post
I would not reccomend hitting it with a power washer directly, due to possibly dislodging windings or other components.

the secret is.... washing AND drying......
yep... not to mention a power washer is going to force water where water is not supposed to be like into BEARINGS. it's best to just use a garden hose, power washing can destroy bearings... especially when you blast an area... and you hold the power washer to "really hit it hard"

just my 0.02...
-bob
03-14-2012 09:32 AM
bc3_Jeep Could not help but chime in here...... I have been in the "electrical field" for 35+ years and there is no issue with hosing out your alternator, even when running. It happens perpetually when you are driving in the rain.

I would not reccomend hitting it with a power washer directly, due to possibly dislodging windings or other components.

If it were MY alternator, I would remove it from the vehicle, put it through a couple of cycles in my dishwasher after a good "presoak" in a bucket with some car wash detergent. This will allow the mud to re-liquify. After removing from the dishwasher, you can let it set to dry for a couple of days, or set it in your oven with the oven set on "warm" (190) degrees for a few hours. DO NOT use a microwave (sorry just had to say that).

If you are thinking "this guy is an idiot" yet..... we used to do this ALL THE TIME with computer boards, keyboards, and all the other components from machine tool electronics to get rid of rat and mice excrement.... which sticks ALOT harder than mud.... when dried........the secret is.... washing AND drying......
03-14-2012 09:16 AM
SilverSport Just as a precaution, unhook the negative battery cable before hosing out. Reconnect once the alternator drys out.
03-14-2012 09:12 AM
rwhinkson Alright than, I can try that first, maybe save me a trip to the dealership. Thanks
03-13-2012 11:56 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwhinkson View Post
Thanks guys, I'll power wash the hell out of it and take it to a different dealer, let Chrysler but me a new one. Thanks!
Actually, I wouldn't. A powerwasher may dislodge solder and connections. I would run the hose without a nozzle (maximum water to liquify the mud) then a medium stream to rinse. Repeat until water runs 100% clean. Close hood, and let truck run and get hot under the hood. After you run it hot for a few minutes, let it cool. Then, spray some under hood dressing (CD2 Engine detailer is the best) to "grease" the parts. Let it set, and you should be golden.
03-13-2012 10:50 PM
rwhinkson Thanks guys, I'll power wash the hell out of it and take it to a different dealer, let Chrysler but me a new one. Thanks!
03-13-2012 10:18 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer_JKUR View Post
Someone tell me why a powerwasher isn't a good idea here? Clean the living daylights out of it. Let it dry completely, maybe hit it with air compressor to help this process. If something fails, they already told you they would replace it if it wasn't full of mud.........

-Hammer
Ive been washing my motors for YEARS, alternator and all, without any issues. Alternators get wet all the time, as long as they are not submerged, they are fine. Hose it off. You will never get the mud out otherwise.
03-13-2012 10:11 PM
aelwero
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer_JKUR View Post
Someone tell me why a powerwasher isn't a good idea here? Clean the living daylights out of it. Let it dry completely, maybe hit it with air compressor to help this process. If something fails, they already told you they would replace it if it wasn't full of mud.........

-Hammer
I was thinking exactly the same thing, but it seemed a little shady to actually type it
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