Jeep Wrangler Forum - Reply to Topic
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Tech Forum > 94 YJ battery will not charge

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Thread: 94 YJ battery will not charge Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
05-04-2012 03:52 PM
Mburkey Yes we had bad wires and had to rewire from the ignition switch at the column and thanks to Master4th for his help, we were able to do it! He's a great source of information and never gave up on us even though we are "mechanically challenged." He's an asset to everyone here!
04-30-2012 03:39 PM
rruss
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Rybak View Post
Check fuse to alternator. In main power box under hood.
The alternator recently failed in my '95. I put a new alternator in, and it wouldn't charge the battery. I scratched my head for a while before I found the pair of big 50A fuses in the engine bay fuse box. Sure enough they were both blown.

I think the old alternator failed in such a way that it essentially shorted the battery to ground blowing those big fuses.

A new alternator and fuses did the trick for me.
04-30-2012 02:18 PM
Tom Rybak Check fuse to alternator. In main power box under hood.
04-27-2012 02:23 AM
Master4th If I remember correctly they had a broken iginition wire from the column to under the hood. They ran a new wire and rewired all the stuff connected to that under the hood.

----------------------------------------------------
Couple things you need to determine:
1. Are you getting fuel inside the engine.
2. Are you getting spark from the distributor.

If your starter is turning the engine then you either lack spark or fuel.

As a side note you might want to do some troubleshooting and make a fresh post, as there is a ton of helpful people that can help you run down the problem.
04-26-2012 11:21 PM
somaral Did you get your jeep running....I think I am having the same problem. I have a 90 yj with a v8 conversion that just stopped. The engine turns but just will not start. The wiring on the conversion was done poorly. So I got on ebay and bought replacement harnesses. I rewired everything... It started...left it alone for a couple of days and went back out and now it won't start...just curious if you figured out our problem.
03-19-2012 12:03 AM
Master4th
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mburkey View Post
Yes we have power to the radio and guages. We replaced the switch b/c we had it all open. We had 12v at the switch yellow wire when in run and in start. Does that mean my wire is bad? When you say to secondly check the yellow distributor wire, are you meaning check it at the coil for 12v and have the key in run while doing so?
Yes at the coil, my 350 has a all in one coil and distributor [HEI]. After everything that wire seems the last possiblity. To be 100% before you attempt replacing it make sure it does not have 12v's at the coil. You can check the brown wire at the alternator as well for 12v's while the key is in the run position.

If you dont have 12v at those wires then we have found the culprit.
03-18-2012 10:48 PM
Mburkey Yes we have power to the radio and guages. We replaced the switch b/c we had it all open. We had 12v at the switch yellow wire when in run and in start. Does that mean my wire is bad? When you say to secondly check the yellow distributor wire, are you meaning check it at the coil for 12v and have the key in run while doing so?
03-18-2012 08:49 PM
Master4th
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mburkey View Post
I can start it with the key but only if I put the distributor wire on a prong on the relay that is "always hot." But if I have it like it's always been, on a prong that is only hot on crank and run--then it won't crank with the key.
Does everything else in the Jeep have power? Guages, Radio etc?

It also occured to me that a 94 has a engine compartment fuse box. I don't remember if you said if it has the original fuse box in the engine compartment by the battery. If so have you checked all the fuses in that box to make sure nothing is blown?

__________________________________________________ ___________

Ok so that limits the problem down to the Distributor wire or ignition switch, on my Wrangler its Yellow and plugs into the blue part of the switch. If your looking at the switch under the dash its the top left wire.

We can test this:
First thing you need to do is get out the multi tester, put the key in the run position, then check if your Yellow distribotor wire has 12 volts. I going to say it probably wont have 12v's.

The second test will be to test for 12vs with they key in the run position at the switch atop the steering column.

Where I put that white circle you should see a Yellow wire going into. [Mine melted which is why its missing.]
You want to test it there for 12v's. If you have 12v's there then your wire from the switch to the distributer is bad.

The easiest thing to do will be to splice into that yellow wire and run a new wire back out through the firewall (The wall seperating the inside of the vehicle from the engine compartment) to the distributor. You will also need to run a wire from there to the Brown wire on the alternator, and then to the Choke.

If you do not have 12v's at the Yellow Wire then your switch is bad and needs replaced.

We would normaly test the income power wire to the switch next, however since you can turn over the starter we know you have power to the switch.
03-18-2012 04:46 PM
Mburkey I can start it with the key but only if I put the distributor wire on a prong on the relay that is "always hot." But if I have it like it's always been, on a prong that is only hot on crank and run--then it won't crank with the key.
03-18-2012 04:14 PM
Master4th
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mburkey View Post
Which black wire do I try this with? The black wire that is cut and not used which is a part of my wiring harness to my alt or are you talking about the black wire that has the ring end that is bolted to the alternator?
On your alternator the Brown Wire should be hooked to a wire that has power when the key is in the run position.

The Red wire coming out of the plug can be hooked onto the ring stud on the back of the alternator with the Black and White wire.

From what I looked up The brown wire is your energizer wire, and the Red wire is your Regulator power wire, Your black and white wire charges the battery.

The last wire was for a fuel pump in the original chevy vehicle and is not needed.
__________________________________________________ __________

I think thats what cuased your problem but the fact that the key wont start the vehicle needs to be addressed first.
03-18-2012 01:24 PM
Mburkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master4th View Post
Why?
The Distributer, the alternator, and all kinds of other stuff gets power from the key being in the Run position. If the key wasn't allowing the distributer to run, then most likely its not energizing the alternator, which is why you its not charging. You can spin it all day as fast as you want. If you don't energize it, induction can not begin.

Wire the black wire on the alternator into the same wire as the distributer. See if it charges then.
Which black wire do I try this with? The black wire that is cut and not used which is a part of my wiring harness to my alt or are you talking about the black wire that has the ring end that is bolted to the alternator?
03-18-2012 12:45 PM
Mburkey I have 12v on yellow when starting Jeep, I have 12 v on green when starting Jeep, I have 12v on red when Jeep is off.
03-18-2012 11:26 AM
Mburkey Is there a trick to getting inside the steering column to get to that switch?
03-16-2012 01:19 PM
Mburkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master4th View Post
I had a thought on the alterntor wiring, are you sure that the Red and Brown wire where not wired together into that yellow fuse? It can be done like that, you just have to make sure you rev the engine over 2600 rpms to energize the alternator.
I'm pretty sure they weren't b/c it was a breaker and we put the fuse link in.
03-16-2012 01:18 PM
Mburkey Wow, that's a lot of information and you explained it well enough that I can grasp most of it, lol. This conversion was completed in 2003. We bought this for our son May 2011 (we've had problems from day one~we've rebuilt carb, replaced parts, etc. etc. etc.). I assume it's been wired this way since 2003. In the first pic where you see the brown wire wired to the yellow fuse link, there was a black breaker type thing there that was on...meaning the breaker has a bright red light in it and it has never been on but when this all happened, it turned on. This Jeep belonged to a man in the military who sold it to another man in the military. I googled this breaker and it seems to belong in the cockpit of an airplane and when it lights up red, it means caution now immediate attention now. So something went wrong obviously (lol), but anyhow I don't have access to "government" parts and so I replaced it with the fuse link.
03-16-2012 01:14 PM
Master4th I had a thought on the alterntor wiring, are you sure that the Red and Brown wire where not wired together into that yellow fuse? It can be done like that, you just have to make sure you rev the engine over 2600 rpms to energize the alternator.
03-16-2012 12:55 PM
Master4th Ok Well if your turning your key to start postition and its not starting the vehicle, but when you put a constant 12v to the distributor. Then the problem is in the key switch, or the power wiring to or from the key.

Now you have a switch on the steering column. It looks like this.

This switch is responsible for power distribution to everything. When you turn your key to acc, run, or start this switch sends power where it needs to go.
There will be 2 connectors plugged into this switch. Mine are Blue and Black. If your looking at the switch from the passenger side (which is the direction the "prongs" are pointing, the left plug is Distributor power (Mine is Yellow) With some alternators there is a Diode in this wire to prevent backfeeding to the distributor (backfeeding would cuase your vehicle to keep runing after you turn the key off.), Starter Turn on Power (Mine is Green), and a double wire (Mine is purple/white)This purple wire "I think" is accessory power.
On the other plug is your incoming power. Here is a picture of it in my Wrangler.


Ok so here is a diagram of the switch


For right now lets concern ourselves where the problem is.

With the key in the Run Position use a multimeter and test this Yellow wire for 12v. Now once this Yellow wire leaves the ignition switch it goes to the fuse box then out of the vehicle then splices and those 2 wires go to the distributor and alternator energizer wire. If you have 12volts at the switch then the problem is somewhere from the switch to the Alternator/Distributor.

Next test might require 2 men, with the Multimeter on the green wire turn to start the vehicle. You should be getting 12vs on the green wire in the start position [Thats the key position as if your tring to start the vehicle].

Next test The Red wire (12RD) This wire should be 12volts with the key off.

Now if you have 12vs at the red wire, but limited or no voltage at Yellow & Green then the switch is bad and needs replaced.

If you have 12volts at the switch for Yellow {Remember this wire only has power with the key in the run position} then your wire is bad and needs to be traced and repaired.

If you have 12volts at the switch for Green {Remember this wire only has power with the key in the start position} Then your wire is bad and needs to be traced and repaired.
__________________________________________________ _________

Lets talk about your pictures.

The black wire is your charging wire. Its where the electricity comes out when the car is running. Test that for 14.4 volts.
From my 350 sbc book looks like brown wire is your Energizer wire. It should be hooked in somewhere along the wire thats hooked to your distributor. (which is yellow on my Wrangler)

That splice is fine thats Run Key position power for your choke.

Now assuming that Brown is the energizer wire. There isn't a wire hooked up to the internal voltage regulator. Here is the picture of the min wires needing hooked up for the alt. to be working properly.



As you can see one of the other 2 wires in that plug should be hooking into the battery power. You can simply fold it down and bolt it to the where the black wire is.

That red wire that is 'Cut and not used' is most likely suppose to be hooked to battery power. You can just put a ring terminal on it and connect it to the charging stud where the black & white wire is attached.

How long has it been runing wired this way?

A potential problem with a open circuit alternator, the way yours apears to be wired, is that it just puts out maximum power all the time. This has the potential to fry the battery, and other electronics in the car.
03-16-2012 10:13 AM
Mburkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nubby55 View Post
Does the wire that goes to the carb connect to the elec. choke? if so that is a +[pos.] wire.
Are grounds always bolted? If so this is not a ground b/c it has a connector on it that is connected to carb.
03-16-2012 10:12 AM
Mburkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nubby55 View Post
The black and red wires that are cut and not used, where they connected at some time and may be you re-taped them separate ?
No, they've always been like this.
03-16-2012 10:03 AM
Nubby55 The black and red wires that are cut and not used, where they connected at some time and may be you re-taped them separate ?
03-16-2012 10:00 AM
Nubby55 Does the wire that goes to the carb connect to the elec. choke? if so that is a +[pos.] wire.
03-16-2012 09:37 AM
Mburkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
That last pic looks VERY close to that of a relay socket. Perhaps you are missing an important relay that lets the Jeep start?
Thanks, I wish that was the problem but it's been empty since we bought it last May. I was curious if I could/should remove it or not.
03-16-2012 12:43 AM
Xpress That last pic looks VERY close to that of a relay socket. Perhaps you are missing an important relay that lets the Jeep start?
03-15-2012 11:49 PM
Mburkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballistx View Post
To me (70 yr old) crank means turning the engine over by the starter (or in "the day" with a hand crank). That is when the engine actually turns over and you can hear the load on the starter as it cranks the engine. If the starter doesn't engage you will get a higher, whining, noise of the starter spinning with no load.

The term for what I understand you have is that the engine will crank but won't start. If that is the case, then you have a fuel or spark (ignition) problem. But it sounds like you can get it started but it won't charge the battery.

You are still likely using the ECM, if for nothing else than to supply the field current for the alternator to charge. If that is the case, I believe there is a thread here on bypassing the voltage regulator in the ECM. That would be the thing to check and do.
It won't start. It makes noise but won't actually start unless we use the prong on the relay that is "always hot," but if we use the relay prong that is hot only on "start & run," it will make the noise to try to start but will not start. And if we use the always hot prong, then we can't turn the Jeep off with the key, to turn it off we have to unplug the wire from the prong. Also there is a charging problem b/c the battery either won't charge or isn't receiving the charge.
03-15-2012 11:28 PM
Mburkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberwolf View Post
is the wire on the carb just bolted to the housing as a ground?

the splice in the 3rd pic may have a fuse in it if you haven't checked it already

I believe the connector in the 4th pic was a diagnostic connector for the old computer
I don't know if it is just a ground. It's a red wire, I assumed it was a "hot" wire. It plugs into the carb.

The third pic is of the connectors, I disconnected them just to see what was in it and it looks like a connector end and no fuse.
03-15-2012 11:25 PM
Mburkey Update: We undid the "rig" that we did (which was hotwire the distributor to the battery) so that we could go back to square 1 and fix things rather than rig things. So as we sit, we have a Jeep that won't start UNLESS we use the prong on the relay that is always hot instead of the prong that is hot on start and run. When we use the relay prong that's hot on start and run, the Jeep will NOT start. If we move it to a different prong on that relay that is always hot, it will start but you can NOT turn it off with the key, you have to unplug that wire to get the Jeep to turn off. We have replaced the relay. If I was having a problem with my starter or starter selenoid or both...would I be able to start the Jeep at all? So I cannot start the Jeep unless on the hot wire and the battery won't charge or isn't receiving a charge.
03-15-2012 11:10 PM
Timberwolf is the wire on the carb just bolted to the housing as a ground?

the splice in the 3rd pic may have a fuse in it if you haven't checked it already

I believe the connector in the 4th pic was a diagnostic connector for the old computer
03-15-2012 10:54 PM
Mburkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master4th View Post
So the red and black wire are connected together, or are they not connected at all?

So you have a Chevy 4 wire. If I remember right the extra wire (not sure what color it was, went to the fuel pump. I'm headed out the door atm when I get back ill see if I can find a decent wiring diagram and tell you what wire is what.

If you have any pictures to post that would be helpful as well.
The black and red wires are cut and taped off, they are not connected to anything...they are a part of the wire harness that connects to the alternator but they are cut and not used.
03-15-2012 10:49 PM
Mburkey
Photos










03-15-2012 06:41 PM
Master4th
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mburkey View Post
My pigtail is 3 wires (brown, red, black) my red and black wire from that pigtail is cut and taped, my brown wire is wired to a fuse link and then to a red wire. I have a black wire with a stripe coming off a bolt on my alt. that has a big connector on the end that connects to a connector on a red wire that runs and plugs into my relay.
So the red and black wire are connected together, or are they not connected at all?

So you have a Chevy 4 wire. If I remember right the extra wire (not sure what color it was, went to the fuel pump. I'm headed out the door atm when I get back ill see if I can find a decent wiring diagram and tell you what wire is what.

If you have any pictures to post that would be helpful as well.
This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:56 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC