|05-17-2012 10:21 PM|
Update finally. This method worked awesome. I just used an old nut and welded it to what was left of the bolt. Took a couple of tries but worked perfectly.
|03-21-2012 06:38 PM|
|03-21-2012 01:37 PM|
|div4gold||I tried to weld a piece of metal onto a broken water pump bolt that had twisted off. It was really a hard bolt and I had tried to drill it out but just barely touched it. The weld didn't hold but when I was done with the weld I noticed the bolt was cherry red. So I just let it cool down at room temp. Now that took the hardness out of the bolt and it drilled out easy.|
|03-21-2012 12:58 PM|
|2002TJ||Ya might be able to get to underside and grind off captive nut..Then just use plain nut and bolt on reassembly.|
|03-21-2012 10:50 AM|
|neverfastenough1||Yep, mine stick out the bottom enough to easily get a pair of visegrips on them or weld a nut on them and then just screw them out the bottom. PB Blaster the heck out of it, or heat it up first.|
|03-21-2012 10:23 AM|
|DevilDogDoc||^^^^ Nice work right there!!|
|03-21-2012 09:52 AM|
|03-21-2012 09:50 AM|
|kfdjason7620||Thats a new one on me!!|
|03-21-2012 09:48 AM|
|Ibuildembig||I do this trick all the time with broken bolts. If you can drill it down enough to get another extractor in it, use a torch and heat the broken bolt off cherry red and then hit it with a candle...yes I said candle....the wax will draw down into the threads and loosen it up. I have seen my machinist buddy do it for 25 years on stuck oill galley plugs in engine blocks.|
|03-21-2012 09:44 AM|
|neverfastenough1||Can't get out to look at mine, but if you can get to the bottom it would probably have more thread protrusion to weld to or even get a pair of visegrips on. Then you can just screw it out the bottom. Like I said can't get out to look at mine to see if that is possible.|
|03-21-2012 09:23 AM|
|03-21-2012 09:20 AM|
|03-21-2012 06:24 AM|
|Jsmartt1||The welder option or using a dremel are the best things I have done. I work at a machine shop and those 2 are very common to do when in the same situation. Good luck|
|03-21-2012 05:45 AM|
|Catmechanic||You have a couple options. Put a nut on top of the bolt and weld through the center of the nut. This keeps you from welding the bolt to the surrounding metal and the heat helps break the rust loose. If you want to try drilling find a machine tool supply store and buy a carbide drill bit. They are a bit pricey but work very well.|
|03-20-2012 08:00 PM|
These extractors? Those look way beefier than what I bought. Probably should get some of those, I'm going to need them sooner or later.
|03-20-2012 07:59 PM|
I might be able to get to a welder this weekend. That would probably be the fastest solution if it works.
|03-20-2012 07:24 PM|
|gmiller0737||A Dremel & a couple of good grinding burrs and plenty of paitence & bolt & extractor can be removed,If you grind out the extractor 1st then drill the bolt progressively bigger till the bolt is just a shell then collapse the shell with a small punch,Clean up the threads with the proper size tap 8mm x 1.25 pitch should be the size.|
|03-20-2012 07:21 PM|
|jerryj||That sucks those are really hard to drill out do you know a welder maybe get a good tack on the bolt with an old cut off wrench or some thing that makes a handle and turn it out.I think those are big enough to do it to with out welding it to the tub.I find that easier then trying to weld a smaller bolt to it.I have only done it once but it worked.|
|03-20-2012 07:20 PM|
|whiteyj||I went through this with a windhshield bolt. After a bunch of research I ended up using a masonary bit at a very slow speed. Still don't understand the how or why when I was breaking cobalt and titanium bits but it worked. Got it in deep enough to allow the use of the "Grab It" set of extractors.|
|03-20-2012 07:18 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||I think I left mine in there, but I don't have a rear seat drill away. Actually go under the body and see if you can drill from the bottom or not , I can't remember.|
|03-20-2012 07:17 PM|
|Jma20a||i believe its a nut on the other side of the body welded in place. you can cut the nut off and re-weld a new bolt in its place.|
|03-20-2012 07:14 PM|
Broken bolt extractor inside of bolt.
One rear seat bracket bolt had the head broken off when I bought the Jeep. I tried using this 3 dollar extractor from Lowes. I let the bolt sit in PB Blaster all night and reapplied it before I started this endeavor.
I used the recommended pilot hole size. I drilled maybe an inch into the bolt. I gently tapped the extractor in with a hammer and tried turning the extractor out very slowly with a Cresent wrench.
Of course, the extractor broke flush with the bolt. I'm guessing the extractor is harder than my drill bits and will be a pain to re-redrill.
What it supposed to look like.
What it looks like
Is there any hope at this point? Any more options? I know seat bolts are not something to skimp on, so I'm wondering what safe solutions are left. Thanks in advance for the replies.