|10-14-2012 08:31 AM|
|chim-chim7||Clorox wipes. Well there is the problem. Way too many chemicles left on the paint. Soap and water to clean, rubbing alcohol to prep. That is all. Leave the wipes for cleaning the counter tops.|
|10-14-2012 08:27 AM|
I've had plasti-dip on my stock Rubi wheels for almost 7 months. Through mud, rocks, rain, you name it. Pressure washed off, wheel brush, rags, taking the wheels off and put back on. Guess what? It's still on my wheels with no peeling.
Like any paint job it all comes down to prep.
|10-14-2012 07:02 AM|
I didn't clean my grill perfectly when I dipped it. In fact, there were some tough to get bugs that I sprayed right over. I didn't think the dip would work, never mind last, so I didn't care. Prep for me was wiping it down with rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth.
Hung it with some paracord innards, and started very lightly. VERY. For the first 3 coats. It seems people often go heavier on smooth surfaces, and chrome on top of that, due to the fact that the reflection of any light really makes the coat seem extremely light and ineffective. Even after my third light coat, you could still see a lot of chrome. That just sets an amazingly solid foundation for the rest of your heavier coats to stick to. After 3 light I did three heavy. It's been on my grill for a few months, lots of miles, temps ranging between 25-95, tons of rain..you get it. I WOULD recommend getting a couple few inch long pieces of weather stripping or something similar and placing them on the grill where the hood contacts a good amount (seems to be upper left and right "corners" of the grill). Mine is bare there now...no big deal to touch up, I'm just lazy and preventative care was foresight for me.
|03-22-2012 06:51 PM|
Clean the surface with soap and water then wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol. Use 1 or 2 light coats, waiting 30 minutes between coats. After the second coat you can lay it on thicker.
I have it on my rims for about 3 months now with absolutely no problems. It's been all types of mud holes and power washed like crazy.
It's all about the prep. The nice thing about the Plastidip is that you don't have to scuff the surface so when you get bored of it you can pull it off and it's back to normal.
|03-22-2012 08:44 AM|
My biggest concern was that I didn't have it "clean" enough. I scrubbed the ever loving hell out of the grill, but I'm guessing I missed the inlets and will need to pull it all apart and reapply.
That said, when I first started, I did have some concerns about the durability of the plasti dip, but didn't want to commit bedliner to the grill if I didn't like the end result. I guess here in a few weeks, I'll take the grill off, clean, and reapply and see how it turns out.
I may have to just wait until summer just to make sure I have the "time" to commit...gotta love being a school teacher, balls to the wall most of the year and then a little "break" in the summer to drive myself crazy with projects.
|03-22-2012 07:55 AM|
However, when I first attempted it, it didn't turn out so well. I came to find later that my prep work wasn't adequate enough for good adhesion and that, much like all other painting projects, your prep is the most important part. That being said, that's most likely your issue was well. A great feature of PD is that it can be easily touched up & blended in spots where it may get chipped, but if peeling is due to improper adhesion then you're going to need to thoroughly clean/prep again first.
Thoroughly clean the grille, then use *rubbing alcohol* on it. Straight alcohol will assist in removing any oil based products & oversprays from wax, etc to allow for a good clean surface for best adhesion. I applied 5 coats to all my projects. I start with a thin first coat so I can still see the surface of the part I'm painting. The second & subsequent coats should provide full & complete coverage. I found that using that application technique resulted in the best finish IMO.
You'll also find that with PD, it's biggest asset can also become its biggest fault - that is that it can easily be removed, ESPECIALLY on edges. To prevent that from happening unwantedly, make sure you get all the edges adequately & completely and try to overlap over the back of the grill so that you don't have an exposed PD edge that can easily get pulled up.
My latest PD project was the aluminum wheels on my Chevelle. More work than my previous projects but they turned out great.
|03-22-2012 06:06 AM|
|03-22-2012 05:49 AM|
|tomthbomb||One of the features of P/D is that it is easily removed. Just like on your Jeep.|
|03-21-2012 11:12 PM|
The Plastidip on our Arctic has been on for about three weeks now. The only place where it has seen some wear is on the door sills where our boots have scuffed it some.
We view the application of Plastidip as a temporary modification so that we can see what we like where we like it. Kind of like a temporary tattoo!
For example, I loved the way the JRC Stage 2 Rock Sliders looked, but was unsure if those were The Ones. Well, we applied the Plastidip in a manner that mimics the profile of my preferred slider, and yes. Those are the ones that will be on both Wranglers when the time comes. We also want to get various body armor for the corners and tailgate. I now know, because we used Plastidip, that I like the look and would feel confident that I would like the looks of a more permanent modification in the future. I was also vacillating on whether I wanted black diamond plate or powder coat for the corner guards. I prefer the powder coat. Oh! One more......at some point, front and rear stock bumpers will be replaced. Those, more likely than not, will be bedlined. When I bought my Super Duty 11 years ago, I had the bed Rhino Lined. Last year, a can of red(argh!!!) paint spilled in the back. Pulled up the Rhino Liner and guess what? You guessed it...the bed under the Rhino Liner was perfect. And let me tell you, we abused the heck out of that truck bed in the last 11 years. All that showed was the liner was starting to wear thin in a few places. A few cans of Duplicoat fixed that and she looked as good as new.
We did, however, use Duplicoat + color matched paint for the back part of the tub of the two door and plan on doing the same for the Unlimited soon. Well, as soon as we can procure the appropriate paint!! Different applications and areas for both for us.
|03-21-2012 07:36 PM|
|03-21-2012 07:17 PM|
I mean, I don't want to jump in a plasti dipping bashing thread, but given my previous comments on how I believe plastidip would hold up terribly to the world around it I will only say...
I told you so
|03-21-2012 07:10 PM|
How did you prep the surface?
What was the ambient temperature when you were spraying?
Sun or shade?
|03-21-2012 07:01 PM|
Plastidip been on my grill for 2 months now and over 2500 miles. No peeling or anything like in the OP.
However, I have always just considered the plastidip to be a temporary thing. Am planning to LineX the grill one of these days. But the Plastidip is holding up perfectly thus far.
|03-21-2012 06:58 PM|
|03-21-2012 06:51 PM|
yea, idk why, I keep saying this every where on plasti-dip threads, but I just don't like it...I hadn't heard of the bed liner alternative until joining these forums and I think it looks much better and it is more reliable in the long run in many more condition. go for the bed liner.
|03-21-2012 06:19 PM|
Bedliner brother, bedliner.
I am dubious of plasti-dip's longterm ability to hold up on the exterior of a vehicle. I view it as a "test" to see if you want to use something more permanent, like spray-on bedliner.
|03-21-2012 06:12 PM|
Plasti dip problem
I went out to my Jeep this afternoon and noticed this. I sprayed plastidip this past weekend. Has anyone had this happen and if so did you just peel it off and start over again?