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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-28-2012 03:51 PM
Wralph I would stick with the dana 35 if it's an open diff and 32inch tires only. Do not just take someone's word for it, go out there and wheel your rig. I have a lot of fellow off roaders that have made the 35 survive with 33inch and even 35inch tires. It all has to do with your driving style and the severity of the off roading that you intend to tackle.

That said, have confidence in your rig and remember that opinion is useful, especially that of experienced wheelers and Jeepers, but then again nothing beats real world experience.

Just MHO.
03-28-2012 03:45 PM
Aziscohos
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Yep. Sure is. I don't even know its there on the road. The install isn't bad. If you haven't had the knuckles/hubs off, it's a little tricky to get out. Some people have to pry the carrier out but mine literally tried to fall out. Just make sure you make your ring gear and carrier and mark the clamps that hold the carrier in so everything goes back right.
Good to know. Thanks.
03-28-2012 02:49 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aziscohos

Sounds perfect for me. From what I've been reading, the Aussie looks like a pretty quick install by capable hands, especially where my rig is newish.

Thanks for the info.
Yep. Sure is. I don't even know its there on the road. The install isn't bad. If you haven't had the knuckles/hubs off, it's a little tricky to get out. Some people have to pry the carrier out but mine literally tried to fall out. Just make sure you make your ring gear and carrier and mark the clamps that hold the carrier in so everything goes back right.
03-28-2012 02:38 PM
Aziscohos
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Less expensive. Didn't require the installation of all the air stuff. I will probably go to an Arb in the rear but the Aussie does just as good as a selectable up front. I don't have too many bad winters and I drive slow and in 2wd even when it does snow, I actually know how to drive snowy conditions I guess. But the Aussie fit me perfectly.
Sounds perfect for me. From what I've been reading, the Aussie looks like a pretty quick install by capable hands, especially where my rig is newish.

Thanks for the info.
03-28-2012 01:28 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616

I'm guessing he liked the price which is about 1/3 that of an arb and doesn't require reinstalling the gears in a new carrier.
This too. I could do the install myself.
03-28-2012 01:28 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aziscohos

I see you went with Aussie - what did you like about it over ARB, etc?
Less expensive. Didn't require the installation of all the air stuff. I will probably go to an Arb in the rear but the Aussie does just as good as a selectable up front. I don't have too many bad winters and I drive slow and in 2wd even when it does snow, I actually know how to drive snowy conditions I guess. But the Aussie fit me perfectly.
03-28-2012 11:10 AM
rda616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aziscohos

I see you went with Aussie - what did you like about it over ARB, etc?
I'm guessing he liked the price which is about 1/3 that of an arb and doesn't require reinstalling the gears in a new carrier.
03-28-2012 10:22 AM
Aziscohos
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Of the gears. Honestly a d30 isn't a weak axle. It's good locked on 33s hp is an easy mod tho.

And yeah rda here in pa most of the people I know like mud
I see you went with Aussie - what did you like about it over ARB, etc?
03-27-2012 07:06 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aziscohos

What do you mean by "coast side"?
Of the gears. Honestly a d30 isn't a weak axle. It's good locked on 33s hp is an easy mod tho.

And yeah rda here in pa most of the people I know like mud
03-27-2012 10:01 AM
Aziscohos
Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post
You can find the non disconnect hp30 in 96-99 cherokee sports all over in junk yards. The high pinion is just that a raised pinion with reverse spiral gears. They are about 30% stronger then the low pinion in your jeep now. The hp30 does nothing for the u-joint strength, only the ring and pinion by reducing stress due to the teeth not applying load on the coast side .
What do you mean by "coast side"?
03-27-2012 09:49 AM
rda616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aziscohos

Would you look used/junkyard for an HP30 or go new? Can I find it with 3.73 gears? Does the HP30 change the angles enough so the u-joints are no longer a concern?
You can find the non disconnect hp30 in 96-99 cherokee sports all over in junk yards. The high pinion is just that a raised pinion with reverse spiral gears. They are about 30% stronger then the low pinion in your jeep now. The hp30 does nothing for the u-joint strength, only the ring and pinion by reducing stress due to the teeth not applying load on the coast side .
03-27-2012 09:40 AM
Aziscohos
Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post
The 44 front isn't really necessary since the weakest link in both the 30 and 44 are the shafts at the u-joints, which are the same on both axles. A high pinion 30 is a cheaper, easier upgrade with better ground clearance.
Would you look used/junkyard for an HP30 or go new? Can I find it with 3.73 gears? Does the HP30 change the angles enough so the u-joints are no longer a concern?
03-27-2012 09:36 AM
rda616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aziscohos
Just reading along trying to apply everything to my situation and I feel like the easiest thing for me to do is to just throw it out there.

I'm running an 05 TJ, 4.0L auto, with stock D30/35 (3.73), and currently have 33's. I'm not in a place to swap axles but I am wary of putting money into my 30/35.

Asking advice is usually a game of waiting for the answer you wanted to hear. The answer I have liked so far is essentially the run-it-til-it-breaks tactic. I'd love to have a locked front for that extra grab and climb. What locker do I use and what should I expect to pay for it (and installation if I can't figure it out or don't have the tools)?

Gears. What to do about that. 3.73 with 33's, am I okay with this? I'm okay with being a relatively conservative wheeler for now.

Ultimately I'll save up for something like the 8.8/44 upgrade with 4.88/5.13 and 35" tires. Of course, that's upwards of $6000 right there! Better get a bigger piggy bank.....
The 44 front isn't really necessary since the weakest link in both the 30 and 44 are the shafts at the u-joints, which are the same on both axles. A high pinion 30 is a cheaper, easier upgrade with better ground clearance.
03-27-2012 09:23 AM
Aziscohos Just reading along trying to apply everything to my situation and I feel like the easiest thing for me to do is to just throw it out there.

I'm running an 05 TJ, 4.0L auto, with stock D30/35 (3.73), and currently have 33's. I'm not in a place to swap axles but I am wary of putting money into my 30/35.

Asking advice is usually a game of waiting for the answer you wanted to hear. The answer I have liked so far is essentially the run-it-til-it-breaks tactic. I'd love to have a locked front for that extra grab and climb. What locker do I use and what should I expect to pay for it (and installation if I can't figure it out or don't have the tools)?

Gears. What to do about that. 3.73 with 33's, am I okay with this? I'm okay with being a relatively conservative wheeler for now.

Ultimately I'll save up for something like the 8.8/44 upgrade with 4.88/5.13 and 35" tires. Of course, that's upwards of $6000 right there! Better get a bigger piggy bank.....
03-27-2012 06:44 AM
rda616
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00
Guys I understand. $35 shafts and a quick replacement is a lot better sounding than spending a grand, but if I have the money I might as well do it, I might end up beefing her up a little bit more. Who Knows. I'm not telling anyone else they need it just saying its what I'm going to do. I like to overbuild.
I couldn't agree more . A broken shaft is a good way to rune a day. I broke to many stock shafts back when I ran broncos to ever do that again. In my area we have a lot of rutted up sand hills that take forward momentum and tire speed to climb, so you need to be heavier on the skinny pedal. Slow crawling in loose sand will land you on your diffs. I think people sometimes forget that others don't necessarily wheel in the same terrain they do.
03-27-2012 06:41 AM
arcountryboy Lock the front, leave the rear open, throw some 32's on it, control the urge to smash the skinny pedal, and you'll be just fine on the d35 for a while. Know how I know, cause I've been doing it. Trail rides, mud rides, rock crawling, and running the highway. All on some heavy @$$ 32" Super Swamper TSL's.

03-27-2012 06:16 AM
GoldenSahara00 Guys I understand. $35 shafts and a quick replacement is a lot better sounding than spending a grand, but if I have the money I might as well do it, I might end up beefing her up a little bit more. Who Knows. I'm not telling anyone else they need it just saying its what I'm going to do. I like to overbuild.
03-26-2012 10:47 PM
IndyJeepMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471

Axle questions are always fun. I have people telling me I need to truss and replace the axle shafts on my Rockwell's. I keep telling them, "Just because you are stupid and broke a Rockwell doesn't mean I have to spend another grand."
Exactly...

Chromo's? Try a spare set of axle shafts for $35!
03-26-2012 10:30 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

True that

But Indy had pointed out how I probably won't even break the stock shafts of an 8.8 on 37s and I said I was going to be running upgraded shafts nevertheless. So it would be pretty tough to break one aka why I said that. And if I am good enough to break one then I'll just pat myself on the back
Axle questions are always fun. I have people telling me I need to truss and replace the axle shafts on my Rockwell's. I keep telling them, "Just because you are stupid and broke a Rockwell doesn't mean I have to spend another grand."
03-26-2012 10:18 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherpa

Of course you don't plan on it. Who does?
True that

But Indy had pointed out how I probably won't even break the stock shafts of an 8.8 on 37s and I said I was going to be running upgraded shafts nevertheless. So it would be pretty tough to break one aka why I said that. And if I am good enough to break one then I'll just pat myself on the back
03-26-2012 10:04 PM
Sherpa
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Yeah c clips aren't a weakness. Just an issue if you break a shaft. And as I mentioned I don't plan on breaking one.
Of course you don't plan on it. Who does?
03-26-2012 10:00 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepSouthJeeper
Oh lol ok. Man I'd love to have a rubicon. Don't they come stock with around 32 in tires?
I believe the Tj came with 31s on the rubi. And they are nice but if you plan on building a lot your better off with a non rubi and add what you want with the $ you save. IMO.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TjWranglerMan
I'm in the same boat I can't decide what I want to do I can't find a d44 for a good price and I got a headache from looking at all the things I have to do for a 8.8 swap I think im going to go super 35 kit it's straight forward and I'm only running 32s with mild to medium wheeling it's my dd
That's a good choice for you and nick^ runs that and loves it. I would run up to 35s on it without a worry.
03-26-2012 09:48 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97
In the front I was considering an auto. Should be cheaper, easier install. And should only be locking when 4wd is engaged. Other than that the axles should be spinning freely....right?
Yep. I just installed my Aussie up front and will be putting it in my hp30 later on. But yeah I was reading up on it and learned that which made a lot of sense. Like of your climbing a rock with one tire having a lot more traction it will lock up and cause more torque on that side shaft. I mean technically it's always locked but you don't have any power through the front driveshaft because it just free spins. So I 2wd your not going any harder on it. Just wheeling. And like you said doing stupid things and being heavy on the gas causes a lot more force than slow steady and smart. You watch vids of guys blowing rings or snapping shafts and 95% are doing something stupid.
03-26-2012 09:39 PM
DeepSouthJeeper Oh lol ok. Man I'd love to have a rubicon. Don't they come stock with around 32 in tires?
03-26-2012 09:39 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97
In the front I was considering an auto. Should be cheaper, easier install. And should only be locking when 4wd is engaged. Other than that the axles should be spinning freely....right?
You are correct. Detroit Locker is an auto and is overkill for the front. Aussie or Spartan is the way to go in the front.
03-26-2012 09:36 PM
TjWranglerMan I'm in the same boat I can't decide what I want to do I can't find a d44 for a good price and I got a headache from looking at all the things I have to do for a 8.8 swap I think im going to go super 35 kit it's straight forward and I'm only running 32s with mild to medium wheeling it's my dd
03-26-2012 09:29 PM
GoldenSahara00 I was just picking cause you said rims but meant tires. But yeah I remember 28s... Good times. Gas mileage was good. I wasn't obsessed with mods.
03-26-2012 09:28 PM
KBR97 In the front I was considering an auto. Should be cheaper, easier install. And should only be locking when 4wd is engaged. Other than that the axles should be spinning freely....right?
03-26-2012 09:28 PM
jeremyX05 i moved from the d35s to the 44s only cuz i killed my rear axle shortly after liftig my jeep 37s may of been a little big for the d35 though
03-26-2012 09:27 PM
DeepSouthJeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

If you have 32 inch rims those must be some real big tires
Lol I WANT the 32s. I have like 28 in right now. I got the jeep from an older guy who barley drove it and kept it stock, but it's in PERFECT condition for a 2006 car. I just got the car last week so it's still stock.
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