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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-07-2013 05:16 AM
DILLIGAF I cut mine off close to the cylinder connector then re-flared with a new nut on first. unfortunately due to marketing purposes they only sell the flare nuts in 5 pack. oh well..

There is enough break line to stretch/re-route the brake line to reach again.
03-06-2013 09:31 PM
barjeep vise grips.
03-06-2013 01:34 PM
nickbdub22
Quote:
Originally Posted by brentd711 View Post
If they haven't been done for a while now's the time to replace both wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware and lines. The pre-made 3/16" lines are easy to bend and you can form some really tight bends with no tools and no kinks. I'm thinking the driver's side was 20 inches and the passenger side 40". I could be off by a foot or two, though
I just did my lines and I think I used the same size but the passanger was a little too long. I have a big hump around the pumpkin. Try 30 or 35". but yea very easy.
03-06-2013 12:47 PM
90DesertTanYJ My LH hardline was frozen into the slave which I was replacing along with the shoes. I managed to take the cylinder and hardline off as one pice by snaking it out the hole in the dust shield. I then used a torch and heated the line nut up and it came loose easy enough. Still on the Jeep doing well.
03-05-2013 08:30 AM
mdgilbreath I just finished overhauling rear brakes on my 1990 wrangler,did the front the week before, since both wheel cylinders were leaking. i put new wheel cylinders,shoes,drums and replaced brake line cause the old ones twisted into on disassembly. having trouble now with spongy pedal ,check and found no leaks at any connection point.
03-27-2012 11:27 AM
Tyewilly X2^ I just did my left rear a while back. I bought, I think, an 18" piece from autozone. Bent it like the old one, and slapped it on,
03-27-2012 08:28 AM
brentd711 Most places have enough of a selection that you should be able to buy lengths close enough to what you need that you don't need to cut and re-flare. If you're a few inches long you can be creative with the bends to use up the excess length without risking the line getting damaged later on.
03-27-2012 08:15 AM
zoomwide I just replaced both my rear brake cylinders and lines. The lines at Autozone cost about six bucks apiece with two fittings attached, but you have to cut them down to size. The flaring kit was a free rental. I did some practice on the flaring operation, never felt like I got it exactly right, but the connections are holding up fine so far.
03-26-2012 08:29 PM
brentd711 If they haven't been done for a while now's the time to replace both wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware and lines. The pre-made 3/16" lines are easy to bend and you can form some really tight bends with no tools and no kinks. I'm thinking the driver's side was 20 inches and the passenger side 40". I could be off by a foot or two, though
03-26-2012 08:08 PM
Benjamb
90 YJ Rear Brake Line

After replacing a leaking master cylinder I was bleeding the brakes and managed to break off the bleed nipple on the driver side rear wheel. No biggie, I ordered a new rear brake slave, pads etc. to refresh both rear brakes. Now I cannot get the rear brake line to unthread from the back of the brakes (threaded into the slave). I am thinking about replacing the line - the rigid line along the axle to solve this but I cannot seem to find just these rear lines, only $150+ full replacment line kits.

Any suggestions? I have soaked the fitting in pentrating oil and have a flared nut wrench but I am close to rounding the fitting even with 270 degree wrench engagement.

Just decided to slow down and write a post before I did more damage. The suspension is stock - no lift.

Thanks!

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