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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-11-2009 12:41 AM
GrnTJ Yea, that was my only convern. It is deff. going to continue to be a dd but I honestly dont give a crap if they are loud as can be. I know the larger lugs will wear a lot faster too but like you said, thats a good price. Im kinda turned off to that deal though because they are bias and not radials. Anyone run some bigger tires and have suggestions on what worked well for occasional street use. I honestly dont drive on the road that much but enough to not really want boggers or the like. If the tsl's were radials I might be a little more interested. Im also thinking 4.88 gears for that size tire, sound good?
01-11-2009 12:36 AM
NalinMFG also serve as the DD tires? if i recall TSL's arent very good friends with mr. pavment...
but $700 is a heck of a deal!!!
01-11-2009 12:02 AM
GrnTJ Ok, I know that post was a little long but does anyone have any suggestions here on what tire size I should run? I know I want between a 36" and 38". My only limiting factor is how I feel the stock front 44 shafts will hold up to being locked. If they snap I will do cromo's but I dont want to have to drop that much money so soon after getting these in. I can get a set of 75% tread tsl's for $700 and Im on the fence about it. What do you guys think I should look for?
01-10-2009 06:49 PM
GrnTJ Well, I hate to make a new thread so I figured I will bring this one back from the dead. A year and whole new Jeep later I am still going to build the heavy duty daily driver I had dreams to put together so long ago. My new TJ is a 99 with 55K on the clock and already decently built. It has some very built up axles and Full Traction long arms but I will be running 38's or close to it so the old axles will be sold off to build a set of full widths. Plans have been reworked a bit so I will break it down again and will also use this post as a feeler for any interest in my old axles although Tazman has first dibs if he wants them as he expressed interest a while ago. First off, the axles I am starting with come from a 3/4 ton 79' F250. It is a high pinion D44 and a rear D60 which measure out to be about 65" wms I believe. They are already sitting in my barn so they should be in shortly after it gets warm enough to build them up and bolt them in. Yes, I will be leaving them full width, mostly because Im too lazy to cut them down myself and also because I dont want to pay to have it done or have to worry about what new shafts would fit the new length of the axle tubes. Its jsut much easier this way and it will be more stable for off camber stuff too. So here is the build list for the axles:
Dana 60:
-Disc brake conversion from Ebay
-Detroit locker from Ebay
-4.88 R&P and master install kit from
-3/8" cast steel diff. cover from
-1310 u-bolt style yoke (to retain my current tom woods shaft and stick with a much easier to find1310 u-joint instead of a conversion joint that is 1310/1350) from
-TJ lower link/coil/shock bracket from (the FT long arms have a truss to eliminate the track bar and also bolt up the upper link mount so this is the only bracket I need to weld onto the rear axle to bolt it up besides a set of sway bar brackets that I will make myself)

The rear axle should be pretty simple and extremely tough when Im finished. I feel the stock shafts will hold up just fine being locked on a tire that is 36-38" so no worries there.

Dana 44:
-Detroit locker from
-4.88 R&P and master install kit from
-3/8" cast steel diff cover from
-3/4" heim OTK steering kit from
-All mounting brackets from
-1310 u-bolt style yoke from (for same reasons as rear is being changed)
-New set of Warn premium lockouts from (I want to buy new hubs but my current ones only need a little spiffing up to be good as new again so I may just stick with those instead)

Want them to stock like new as well so brake rotors will be turned if possible or replaced if needed. New pads of course, and replaced calipers if needed. Ball joints will likely be done too. Both axles will be coated with some nice semi-gloss black paint for easy touch up. The front axle will keep its stock shafts for the time being and if (I have a feeling ) they brake they will be replaced with a set of 4340 alloy shafts and alloy joints to bring better piece of mind. If I am lucky/careful I may be able to wheel the front axle for a good while before the bigger tires and locker bust up those shafts. What are your opinions? What tire do you guys think I should run? To keep a lower cog Im going to be building a set of flat fenders for the front and removing the rear fender and cutting out some of the wheel well to hopefully avoid needing to do all new coils. Im at a 3" coil and 1" bl right now so with proper bump stops and some creativity I hope to be able keep that set up without much change. The only other plans involve a 4spd np435 trans from a ford truck mated to a twin sticked and 4:1 geared dana 300 t case but that project may not happen until next winter due to money. It will depend on what kind of deals I can find for that stuff.

That brings me to my "old" stuff. I will be promptly selling my current axles/wheels/and tires as soon as I can possibly bare to be outside long enough to strip it down and get that stuff off. I will list the specs and what will be included but the axles will be a bolt up and go kinda deal in which everything you need is included. This is what I have:
high pinion D30 front:
-ARB air locker
-heavy duty spicer stamped cover w/ added diff. guard bolted ontop of that and grade 8 cover bolts
-superior alloy inner and outters
-Newer brake pads
-Goferit off road tie rod flip kit installed (flips your steering to the top of the knuckle, raising it up about 4" out of the way)
-Steering linkage from a V8 Grand Cherokee (40% larger than stock TJ steering and also solid tube, not hollow) you can have this if you want it but if not I will include the last insert you need to make the tie rod flip kit work with your drag link
-All brake stuff including calipers
-New pinion seal
-4.56 gears

Dana 44 rear:
This axle very recently was comepltely rebuilt (about 4 months ago) due to being driven from KY to MI without much gear oil. EVERY single internal part is BRAND NEW. New bearings, seals, gears, etc. The locker and shafts are about the only thing not replaced inside this axle. Works perfectly and it should for what it cost to be rebuilt
-ARB air locker
-new 4.56 gears
-Superior alloy shafts
-Disc brake conversion
-SOLID diff cover
-set up and rebuilt in professional off-road shop
-new yoke
-All brake stuff including calipers, rotors,pads

There is really nothing else you can buy for these axles. They have every possible upgrade I can really think of to make them stronger besides trusses. You can easily run 35's on these and wheel hard all day and never have to worry. Along with the axles you will also get everything you need to make them work including:
-heavy duty air lines front and rear
-All fittings
-ARB compressor
-All switches and wiring required
-switch panel that replaces your stock ash tray to mount switches in

Bolt in and go. For the axles and everything you need to get them going I am going to be looking for about $3500 when I get these out. Everything works flaulessly and you'll have a hard time getting stuck with a set up like this.

I also ahve my old wheels and tires to get rid of since my new stuff will need to be 8 lug.
-x5 34x12.5R16 Trxus tires, 4 of them have about 85% tread and fith (spare) is brand new/never touched the road
-All mounted on aluminum Moab rims from a Rubicon and in perfect condition

I dont want to seperate the wheels/tires and Id be looking for $950 for all five.

Lastly, I have a set of four 1.25" spidertrax wheel spacers for 5x4.5" pattern that I want $150 for all four of them.

Thats everything I think I will be getting rid of come some warm weather so let me know if you are interested in any of it. Im a landscaper and I have many wooden pallets I can strap stuff to and ship if you are far away and want to go that route. Anyway, give me your opinions and suggestions on what I got goin on. You'll be seein her on full widths soon!
06-28-2008 01:27 AM
GrnTJ haha, lmao. This is old news now. Remember, I change my mind pretty much all the time. But the good news is I am still sticking with the other project I started. The CJ frame, YJ tub. CJ front clip, those F250 axles that I did end up buying, a Ford 302, small block C-6, and np205 t-case, and 38.5" tires. I am trying to figure out how I want to set up the front control arms (Im using coils up front). Once that happens I just need to weld some motor mounts in and the drivetrain will be dropped in. Then brakes plumbed, tub painted and bolted down, steering set up, etc.I believe I have those other axles sold to tazman2 though ironically. He has been talking to me about them and it seems he really wants them.
06-27-2008 12:40 PM
tazmann910 Might be intrested in the 60.

Originally Posted by GrnTJ View Post
Thanks! Update: I found another set of axles from a 79' F250 that Im probably gonna pick up and use instead. They have 4.10 gears and the rear has been welded. I think the 60 I have right now has been cut down because its only like 1" wider than my stock TJ axle. So if I buy this then I will have a TJ width D60 for sale with the brackets already cut off and ready to be built up if anyones interested.
06-27-2008 11:27 AM
cherokee980 ??
04-28-2008 09:51 AM
GrnTJ Thanks! Update: I found another set of axles from a 79' F250 that Im probably gonna pick up and use instead. They have 4.10 gears and the rear has been welded. I think the 60 I have right now has been cut down because its only like 1" wider than my stock TJ axle. So if I buy this then I will have a TJ width D60 for sale with the brackets already cut off and ready to be built up if anyones interested.
04-28-2008 08:22 AM
cavediverjc Take the plastic cover off of the ratcheting mechanism, there should be a ratchet release lever.
04-27-2008 06:58 PM
GrnTJ Thanks. Im sellin the D44 now and lookin for a high pinion D60 for the front instead. Figured I might as well just run a matching 60 in the front just because I dont wanna regret not doing it from the start. Also found out that the ratio in the rear is 4.10 so I pretty happy about that. Anyone know how to get a seat belt to unlatch so I can pull it out? I took the belts off and they wound all the way up and now I cant pull them back out!
04-27-2008 01:06 PM
tobycat1 Nice project man!
04-27-2008 10:26 AM
GrnTJ So I was a little slow to getting these pics up but here they are, sorry for the delay.

Rover seat mounted in the rear, its a 3 seater now:

Just enough room to fit the subs:

This is the rig that I picked up to pull my axles from, it was a piece:

Front axle was a pain to get out:

I thought D60's had 30 or 35 spline shafts, these were 16 spline?:

Got all the brackets cut off and ground down and drums off, ready to be built up:

Lastly, just an idea of what is kinda gonna look like when Im done:
04-25-2008 09:01 AM
GrnTJ Well, I tore and old land rover buck seat out of a truck we had sittin here and bolted it in the back behind the passenger side. Came out pretty sweet. Perfect room to the left for my subs too. I will post pictures tonight. The seat is electric too which it pretty sweet. One question though, anyone know how to get the dang seat belt to unlock. I took it off a long time ago because I thought Id never put a seat in the back and now they are reeled in most of the way and they wont let go!
04-16-2008 09:59 AM
GrnTJ I decided to ditch my front axle and look for one out of a 78'-79' F-150/F-250 instead.
04-15-2008 06:19 PM
GrnTJ sahara- I planned on doing the ball joints simply because they are older and new ones will do nothing but give me piece of mind at the very least. So they will most likely get replaced. Also, yes, I have a 5spd but I was thinking of doing a nv4500 swap in the future. We'll see how the rest of the drivetrain holds up first before I get into that project though.

BLK-Thanks. I have been trying to figure out what I would do for the upper mounts, I couldnt decide if I wanted to build that set up myself or not since Im already building the D60 truss. That sounds like a better solution though, Im deff. gonna check that out. Thanks for pointing me to that. Yea, we'll see about the tires. I want to keep them because it would be way easier/cheaper plus they just look sweet. Even if I say Im gonna get new tires, the reality is I wont. I know I'll end up keeping these and getting 2 more.
04-15-2008 06:15 PM
ArizonaJeeper very nice build Grn. You got one helluva deal on those axels from under that truck. You essentially gained 2 axels+ some cash ... i wish
04-15-2008 05:57 PM
1BLKJP Great lookin project Grn, should be fun for you to get it all together. What are you going to do in the front for the driver side upper? I only ask because if you haven't seen them TnT Customs makes great trusses that will integrate all of the upper mounts you'd need for you TJ. I've seen a couple of them here in AZ and for what they cost and the time they save with not having to build all of the mounts I think they are well worth it.

I'd say those tires will be fine for you for awhile. Especially if you are trying to stay on a budget and you already have 2 8 lug wheels with tires on them.
04-15-2008 05:51 PM
4.0l sahara I would do the ball joint while your at it. also is your jeep a 5spd? Just woundering.
04-15-2008 05:39 PM
GrnTJ I agree completley. But since Im pulling all my old stuff off for this other stuff that means I will have a lot to sell also. My D30 and 35 with 4.88 gears and heavy duty diff covers, my 33" Pro Comp mud terrains on 15x8 black rims, most of my lift, etc. I have been looking at rear disc brake conversion for my 60 and I found a kit fro $300 shipped. Then I'll have all brand new rear brakes + they'll be discs. A new clutch pack for the power-lock is $40. Im building all my own brackets so it looks like $350 to rebuild the rear and have it ready to bolt in. The front will just needs freshened up brakes and possibly new ball joints so maybe about $250 there. I think new tires are a good possibility but Im kinda likeing the look of those hawgs, lol.
04-15-2008 04:37 PM
2much thats a hell of a build man, good luck.
the dry rot on the tires would concern me too, but save that till close to the end, and if it looks like your gonna have a little extra left in your budget go ahead and spring for some nice tires. just my .02
04-15-2008 03:44 PM
tazmann910 I do what I can, ...
04-15-2008 03:29 PM
Originally Posted by 4.0l sahara View Post
If the side walls have dry rot then I would think when you air them down the cracks would really open up?
See, thats what I was thinking but the dry rot is luckly only inbetween the lugs. I think I amy try them out just because it would be super cheap and then if it is really bad I can always get some different tires.
By the way, nice reaction taz, lol
04-15-2008 03:22 PM
tazmann910 all I have to say is DAMN!!!!!
04-15-2008 03:16 PM
4.0l sahara If the side walls have dry rot then I would think when you air them down the cracks would really open up?
04-15-2008 01:42 PM
GrnTJ I agree. Thats why I will take plenty but I wont be able to work again for a week and a half cause of school. Im going to rebuild that Power-Lok with a new clutch pack because I read up about how you can put it back together to be way more "aggressive". Should work almost like a locker by the time Im finished.

Need opinions though. The deal is those ground hawgs have about 75% tread on them and they are good tires from what I hear. The only problem is they have some minor dry rot. Its not that bad and they certainyl hold air well. Its not really enough to be cause for concern. But this truck only had these tires/wheels on the rear so Id have to hunt for another set of white wagon wheels and 2 more 38.5" ground hawgs. I could probably pick them up cheap if I looked around. So what do you guys think? Im really not sure how well they wear on the road but I cant imagine too well. So what would you do? As of right now Im leaning toward keeping them and finding at least 2 more (maybe a 3rd for a spare). It would certainly be cheaper that way.
04-15-2008 01:26 PM
4.0l sahara the more pics the better.
04-15-2008 12:20 PM
GrnTJ By the way, anyone ever hear of or know anyone whos got experience with the Precision Gears Power-Lok? At first when I pulled thecover on the 60 I thought it had a Detroit locker but then Irealized thats not what it was. But I had never seen the device before so I searched online to try and fine somehting that looked similar and found thats what it is. I guess its like a super heavy duty limited slip. Supposed to be twice as strong as a standard D60 open carrier (not sure why Id really need that!) and get 75% better traction that an open carrier. I was gonna put a limited slip in the rear anyway so this deff. saved me some money. But the thing is I cant find anyone whos owned one. I just want to know how they perform off road. So if you have any kind of idea let me know!
04-15-2008 12:16 PM
Originally Posted by Smeghead View Post
If all else fails, at least your girlfriend is hot
Haha, I'll take that as a compliment. I think shes hot, otherwise we wouldnt have been dating for over 4 yearslol. She puts up with the Jeep and she even drives one herself, so shes a keeper for sure.
04-15-2008 11:49 AM
Smeghead If all else fails, at least your girlfriend is hot
04-15-2008 11:14 AM
Triple88a hehe Isnt it fun to take stuff apart to see whats inside ?

i do it all the time
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