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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-04-2012 07:23 PM
Maverick 1179
Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDz TJ View Post
Just did this last weekend!!! Sorry for your pain. It took me 4-5 hours to drill and re-tap them fricken upper rear shock mounts. UGH!!!

extended length bits and an air drill is what got me close enough to the frame to drill the outer ones.... short bits and angle drill for the inner ones.

I also had a Drill Doctor to clean up the THRASHED bits every hole.... lol!!
get this i also snapped the tap off redrilling the holes. i just drilled all new holes for it and just ran a bolt through the top. but i got the shocks mounted just gotta finish the rest up.
04-04-2012 06:21 AM
TnDz TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick 1179 View Post
I'm currently installing this lift on my jeep and let me tell you it is a bitch!!!! pb blaster doesn't help everything. i snapped off the rear shock bolts at the top and that made everything more painful. but seems like a decent enough kit though.
Just did this last weekend!!! Sorry for your pain. It took me 4-5 hours to drill and re-tap them fricken upper rear shock mounts. UGH!!!

extended length bits and an air drill is what got me close enough to the frame to drill the outer ones.... short bits and angle drill for the inner ones.

I also had a Drill Doctor to clean up the THRASHED bits every hole.... lol!!
04-04-2012 12:44 AM
Meyers2010 Ohhhh damn that sucks!!the top bolts were so hard to get to!!sorry to hear that man!!but yeaa it's a nice lift even though it's my first so I don't have anything to compare it too. It's obviously a tougher ride than stock but so far I don't even care..it's a jeep right?haha
04-02-2012 03:53 PM
Maverick 1179 I'm currently installing this lift on my jeep and let me tell you it is a bitch!!!! pb blaster doesn't help everything. i snapped off the rear shock bolts at the top and that made everything more painful. but seems like a decent enough kit though.
04-01-2012 11:31 PM
Meyers2010 It's pretty stiff..I was taking it easy on the road today though I'm gonna go back under it tomorrow and make sure everythings still tight and I'll let you know tomorrow
04-01-2012 08:57 PM
408jeeper ones you ride it. let me know hoes the ride? Stiff? smooth?
03-31-2012 11:53 PM
Meyers2010 Haha very true thank you!
03-31-2012 10:50 PM
jrussblues Better to ask than to spend 3 hours scratching your head. Hope it helps.
03-31-2012 10:49 PM
Meyers2010 Alright then yea I'll look for some..sorry about all the questions im obviously new to this haha thank you so much!!i really appreciate your help!
03-31-2012 10:43 PM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meyers2010
Alright thanks..should I look into getting new bump stops?
Bumpstop extensions. If you look at the pic I sent before then you can see there is about a 2" spacer above the jounce (yellow) bumper that bounces off of the axle. I would highly recommend adding extensions but you can drive without them. If you decide to start pushing your jeep you can rub tires on flares and bottom out shocks if there is nothing to limit upward travel.
03-31-2012 10:36 PM
Meyers2010 Alright thanks..should I look into getting new bump stops?
03-31-2012 10:35 PM
jrussblues And what is the part number for your kit. I'll look it up real quick and see if I can spot anything helpful.
03-31-2012 10:33 PM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meyers2010
Well none came with it so I don't have to worry about it?haha and so I should just leave the stock ones in right?would it be easier to maneuver the spring into place if I loosened the bump stops?
Any time you do a lift you should look at bump stop length. I am guessing that if yours didn't come with any then you are probably not wanting to wait and order a set so, in this case, leave them alone. Also, you can't really loosen the factory bump stops and install them later. Only some of the aftermarket ones.
03-31-2012 10:30 PM
Meyers2010 Well none came with it so I don't have to worry about it?haha and so I should just leave the stock ones in right?would it be easier to maneuver the spring into place if I loosened the bump stops?
03-31-2012 10:25 PM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meyers2010
The shocks are completely out because I'm installing new ones..thanks for all the help!!also how would I loosen the bump stops?and do I just leave the stock ones?
You will not need to worry about bumpstops unless you are adding bumpstop extensions (hopefully). In that case let me know and I can walk you through.
03-31-2012 10:23 PM
timberland
Quote:
Originally Posted by BV Jeep View Post
First thing you do is take your tool box, the whole thing, and dump it out on the ground. You will find that you will need most of it any way.

.................For the rear you will need a come along to help get it over to align up the upper bolt.

+1 on dumping the tool box on the floor. I have two roll chest cabinets and believe I used about every US and Metric 3/8 and 1/2 socket, wrench, extension, swivel, adapter that I own .... I have a hoist and two floor jacks in my man cave.... I lifted, lowered, raised with jacks pushed , pulled ....thought many times about cussing....BUT I didn't because I had my 12 yr old nephew wanting to help. He had a great time. What a PITA with coil springs. I could of built another fiberglass CJ7 from the ground up in less time as placing this 4" Zone lift on.

As for the rear track bar pulling over....yup....do that. THEN measure from the side of your frame to the outer edge of your tire on the Right and Left. Guaranteed your jeep sits to the right 1/2" if you have RC lift and 1" if you have a Zone lift. My Dad has a RC lift....measured his today after my Zone lift was 1" off. We fixed it......tomorrow I'll post photo's in a new thread on what you have to do to "center" the axle with both of these manufactures budget lifts...gotta believe the more money lifts are exactly the same fu-barred way.
03-31-2012 10:21 PM
jrussblues Noooooo....it's the design of the factory arms that prevent droop. The aftermarket arms will be fine. Just get every other axle to frame connection point unbolted. Track bar at the axle, shocks at the axle, and sway bar links. Here is a pic of my rear when I did mine, I literally had to hold the springs in place until I dropped it because there was so much room to put them in. If you look the track bar is off, so are the rear sway bar end links and the shocks. Granted, the upper arms weren't mounted yet, but that made no difference. The front works the exact same way.
03-31-2012 10:20 PM
Meyers2010 The shocks are completely out because I'm installing new ones..thanks for all the help!!also how would I loosen the bump stops?and do I just leave the stock ones?
03-31-2012 10:12 PM
Meyers2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues
If you connect the lower control arms first, disco the sway bar, and unbolt the track bar the spring should go on easily. The factory control arms will bind on the frame making a 2" lift tough and the sway bar connected will also prevent axle movement.
Well I have a 4" lift with new control arms but I got em on now..should I disconnect the control arms?i feel like it'd be really hard to get the control arms bolted in if the springs are in there
03-31-2012 10:09 PM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by BV Jeep
Sway bar end links at the sway bar can be a pain. Hit it with a hammer or sledge. They are tapered bolts so a good can help to free them. Hit it on the side of the sway bar, not on top of the bolt. To get the springs in, do you have the shocks still on? There is also your bump stops. If they are still on, you can take them loose so you can get the spring over them. Just slip them up inside the spring before you slip the spring on'
Good call on taking off the lower shock bolts. I forgot about that one. Also, if you are replacing brake lines, do that before installing the new springs.
03-31-2012 10:07 PM
jrussblues Beat the crap out of the boot.
03-31-2012 10:06 PM
BV Jeep Sway bar end links at the sway bar can be a pain. Hit it with a hammer or sledge. They are tapered bolts so a good can help to free them. Hit it on the side of the sway bar, not on top of the bolt. To get the springs in, do you have the shocks still on? There is also your bump stops. If they are still on, you can take them loose so you can get the spring over them. Just slip them up inside the spring before you slip the spring on'
03-31-2012 10:06 PM
Meyers2010 On the actual boot?or on the sway bar itself?
03-31-2012 10:06 PM
jrussblues If you connect the lower control arms first, disco the sway bar, and unbolt the track bar the spring should go on easily. The factory control arms will bind on the frame making a 2" lift tough and the sway bar connected will also prevent axle movement.
03-31-2012 10:03 PM
jrussblues Sway bar link, hit it on the boot where the link connects to the sway bar with a hammer. (after taking off bolts). After a couple of solid whacks it'll pop out. If not give it a couple more, I promise...this works.
03-31-2012 10:01 PM
jrussblues Use two floor jacks (with wheels...important) and turn them so they are parallel with the axle. That way you can go up and down, left and right. A lot of people recommend straps and come alongs to line everything up, the floor jack method is much easier. Make sure the jeep is supported by the frame so that the axle is free moving. Also, don't tighten down anything fully until the weight of the jeep is on it.
03-31-2012 09:59 PM
Meyers2010 What's a power pack?
03-31-2012 09:50 PM
Jeepoffroad04 Something that help me big time to put the control arms on was a power pack which you can rent from advance auto or some other local hardware stores.
03-31-2012 09:41 PM
Meyers2010 Day one, by myself, so far issues I've had:
control arms were a b*tch to get in, couldn't get holes to line up
Front right spring went in easy, left still isn't in even with spring compressors..how can I get the left side of the axle lower?
Sway bar links, CANNOT get them off!!any tips??
03-29-2012 11:07 PM
Meyers2010 Thanks guys..I just pb blasted the crap out of all the bolts today
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