|Yesterday 01:40 PM|
So I got curious and googled the "done" thing ( because I'm on mids and can't sleep) and this is as close as I could get
Topix is the devil BTW and should be outlawed but I digress.
|Yesterday 01:35 PM|
|Yesterday 11:16 AM|
|stnoack||I just had all the same issues as everyone here been chasing wires for two days was not the ignition actuator or clutch safety switch or bad relay or dirty ground wires. What it ended up being was the grounding wire off of the starter wire pin 86 goes into the wiring harness then comes back out between the engine and battery and goes into a connection with multiple other wires. That connection was loose. chased wires found the plug wiggled it and fired right up. Unplugged it would not start plugged in started right up again. So yes it was a ground wire but not the wires that attach to the firewall or the engine block or the battery. Two days of frustration and it was so simple. Now I have a couple hours of putting dash and wires all back together.|
|01-21-2015 07:32 PM|
So I tapped on the starter with a hammer and now it fires up every time!
For completeness - I had also tried to jump start thinking I might not be getting enough "cranking amps".
Hope this helps someone else.
|01-20-2015 10:05 PM|
One more trouble-shooting result:
With ignition switch on and clutch engaged (thanks son!), I get a spark across the terminals of the starter with a screw driver between the posts. When he turns the key to start I do not get a spark (presumably because the current is going to the starter and does not want this by-pass anymore).
So - the starter seems to ignore the signal to go - bad electricals on the starter? There is NO electrical draw on the system when key is moved to start - lights do not dim, nothing changes.
|01-20-2015 08:55 PM|
Interesting thread, but still not working for me...2005 Wrangler 4.0L 6 speed.
Symptoms 1. Can turn to on and all electronics working like normal. All lights on with strong battery. Turn to Start and I can hear the relay under the hood (and I swapped out for fog light relay for good measure) and I can hear the fuel pump relay. 2. key can be removed from any position. It's been that way for 3 years. 3. the first day it happened I went out and tried another key about 30 minutes after this problem started and it worked and so did the other keys. It worked for two days and now not at all. 4. a couple of times out of the 100 times I've rotated the key my odometer reading would spell out "donE". I've never seen that before!
I have: swapped ignition pin assembly (bye bye $48 and the old one did not appear to be broken), jumped the wires for the clutch switch, swapped starter/fog light relays. Read this thread and one other and tried three different keys.
Thanks in advance!
|01-08-2015 07:57 PM|
|01-08-2015 07:54 PM|
|01-08-2015 06:37 PM|
|T99racing||I have a 1988 wrangler that has the no start, with just the clicking under the dash does this still apply?|
|01-08-2015 03:45 PM|
|01-08-2015 03:32 PM|
|RKCWLER||My 2004 TJ would not start yesterday afternoon. My son calls me and says "Dad, my engine is overheating and died." So I load up some tools and water in the Jeep, turn the key and nothing. But, I have power to everything else, even the headlights. So, after rescuing my son in another vehicle, I search the web, and always check what the forums come up with first. Found this and other threads. Just now, I took my ignition apart and found the tip of the actuator broken. I would think that with all the problems this pot-metal causes there would be a better part made. Does anyone know where you can buy the pot-metal piece that is made better?|
|01-07-2015 10:16 AM|
|Noaeill||Hey guys! Just wanted to say that this feed helped me fix mine and THANK YOU!! I had no clue where to start and as soon as I started reading this I got straight to work and wouldn't you know it fixed me right up spent about $40 on the part at autozone and about 30 minuets of time working on it|
|06-30-2014 03:37 PM|
|PBDream||I had this same exact problem. I replaces the starter and batter and was hearing a clicking. The problem for me was a bad connection with the battery wire and the bracket that attached to the battery I just bought a new bracket.|
|06-30-2014 12:28 PM|
|Shane0730||Just wanted to add to this thread. Left my house on a normal day to the convenience store, then the Jeep wouldn't start. Had power on dash, radio, etc. Seemed like battery was fine. Thought it was clutch safety switch (I have 5 sp man), so I put in a fuse in 20 on fuse block, nothing. Had it towed back home. Got battery and starter check at AutoZone, battery checked bad, bought new battery and terminals. Replaced both, still nothing. I turn it to start and I hear clicking, the Fuel Pump relay was clicking. Went to this thread and learned about the Ignition Switch Actuator Pin, AutoZone had one so I pulled mine out and BAM there is the exact same piece of aluminum broken. Changed it out and now it starts with no issues. So thank you to this forum for the help. I'm normally on JeepForum but this one saved me. Kudos to all of you! Thanks again.|
|04-01-2012 09:54 PM|
I had a similar issue on Friday night. I noticed that the ASD relay was clicking something mad when I popped the hood. I Googled 2000 Wrangler ASD relay and this is the first thing that popped up. I couldn't open the connector to the PCM, so I did a visual on the lines inside the loom between the battery and firewall. I noticed that the Red/White line was split and had some corrosion. I tried rubbing off the corrosion and the wire broke in to. I didn't have a tool kit with me, so I had to pull a MacGyver and use the innards of a US GOVT ball point pen to connect the split ends. Was I surprised when it fired up right away! I had to do a temporary repair with some wire right now until I get access to a soldering iron. I've thought about replacing the entire harness, but it looks like a lot of work and I think that a solder job would do just fine.
2000 Jeep Wrangler – ASD Relay Not Activating
|03-31-2012 08:02 PM|
Installed the new ignition actuator pin today. It did not put up too much of a fight. All the instructions here, YouTube video, and the instructions that came with the replacement part were all right on the money. Jeep starts normally now.
I would like to add one word of caution for automatic transmission jeeps. When you take the cover off the bottom of the ignition actuator pin, it is attached to a stiff cable that goes to the button on your automatic transmission shifter. The cover has a small keyway in it that will jump right out of there never to be seen again if your not careful. I got lucky, twice! Other than that it was straight forward.
|03-30-2012 08:04 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Nice detective work Ron.|
|03-30-2012 07:55 PM|
Victory! It was the ignition actuator pin. It broke just like all the other pictures on this forum. Harbor Frieght sells a set of 33 security bits for $7. The new pin comes in tomorrow ($39 from O'Reilly's).
Thanks Jerry for your help and thanks to all the previous folks who allowed me to do the research and figure it out.
|03-30-2012 01:37 AM|
|Jerry Bransford||Knock the little security pin out with a small punch or screwdriver, no need to buy a special security Torx driver.|
|03-30-2012 01:12 AM|
Thanks for the reply. After some more research, I came to the same conclusion you did, it is not a SKIM problem. I have already swapped relays so that is not the problem. Although I should listen to see if they click. I suspect they will not because I am not getting 12v to the starter solenoid when I turn the key. I can start the jeep at will if I put 12v from another source to the starter solenoid so it is not the starter or starter solenoid. At this point it is the ignition switch or the park/neutral safety switch that are more than likely the culprits. I did some more research and decided to check the ignition actuator pin like this thread suggests:
Jeep won't start but starter and battery are good - JeepForum.com
I would have had the results but I have a std #10 torx and I need an anti-theft #10 torx to remove the cover. I will pick one up in the morning and let you know what I find.
Thanks again for your help.
2002 TJ 4.0l Auto
|03-29-2012 09:42 PM|
The symptoms are a bit confusing....
First, the SKIM invalid key code. An incorrect or bad SKIM code from a TJ with the SKIM security system will let the engine start but it will kill the engine 1-2 seconds later. So your symptom doesn't point to a bad SKIM key. If your igntion key is gray colored, it has a SKIM chip inside and odds are good your TJ has the SKIM security system. If it is black and has started your Jeep ok in the past, your Jeep doesn't have a SKIM system.
I would next check to see if the Starter relay inside the PDC (power distribution center) behind the battery is energizing. If the Starter relay is not clicking (put your ear next to it), I would swap that relay with one of the others of similar size since they are the same relay. If swapping relays doesn't help and the starter relay never clicks/energizes when the ignition switch is turned to Start, that indicates either a bad ignition switch or bad wiring between the ignition switch and starter relay (not the same as the starter solenoid on the starter motor).
If the starter relay clicks/energizes but the starter motor solenoid isn't energizing, you've probably got a bad starter solenoid which is part of the starter motor assembly.
Hope that helps.
|03-29-2012 02:04 PM|
Jeep won't start, battery/starter good
Hopefully someone can help clarify what is going on with my Jeep. I purchased a used 2002 TJ 4.0l Auto with 113k miles one month ago. I am new to Jeeps and slowly working through all the issues of my new purchase. Bear with me this may be a long post.
This morning I got in the Jeep and started it up normally, backed out of the garage and turned it off. Five minutes later, kids on board ready for school, the Jeep won't start. It just does nothing. After getting the kids to school in another car, I go into trouble shooting mode. When you turn the key to start it, the Jeep does everything it should except turn over the engine. I hear a solenoid click under the dash, the fan and radio turn off, but no sounds from under the hood. The lights do not dim. Instrument cluster acting normal. I checked every fuse and swapped relays, cleaned the battery post, and tried to jump it. No luck. I took a multi meter and found that I wasn't getting 12v to the starter solenoid. Sure enough, if I jumped the starter solenoid with the key on, the Jeep started right up and runs fine. That at least solved the stuck in the street problem.
Now here is where I get confused. In fiddling with the key to get the darn thing to start, I got what I think are three P codes to flash where the mileage is usually displayed. I can repeat it by turning the ignition on and off three times (just fast enough to where the mileage comes into view). First question, is that a valid way to read P codes on a Jeep? If it is awesome! So the three codes are: 0122, 0456, and 1685. Quick google search and these are:
0122 - Throttle position sensor input below acceptable range: Interesting, I have had an intermitten check engine light. This might be the cause.
0456 - Evap leak monitor small leak detected in the evaporative system: If this is the A/C evaporator then that explains my 3 day freon leak in my A/C.
1685 - SKIM Invalid Key. The engine controller has received an invalid key from the SKIM
The last one is the one that has me worried. How do you fix that? New ignition switch? I tried both keys (both look like OEM keys) but neither worked.
One final note, after disconnecting the battery to clean the post, the codes all disappeared (along with my check engine light) but the Jeep still won't start with the key.
Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance.
2002 TJ 4.0l Auto