|03-29-2012 06:59 PM|
|03-29-2012 04:17 PM|
Maybe I'm a little confused, but in your post you say you are using the KC "load" supply into the stock harness?
If I'm reading it right you are using the stock harness to provide the power (load) to run the lamps. Unless the KC's are 55watt bulbs, the harness won't handle it.
If so you would be far better off to use the switch to run the trigger side of your KC relay only, and provide a separate fused power lead to the relay.
The stock system works that way, the switch triggers the stock relay. The relay is designed/wired to handle the amp load, the switch is not.
|03-28-2012 11:19 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
I don't have KCs so I don't know what colors do what but here is what you need to have. At the relay you have a wire from the battery (B+). Then you have the wire going to the light(s). That may be your green wire or that is the B+ from the battery.(?) Those are fine. (Those are normally marked 30 & 87 on the relay.) Now you need a power source to the relay & a ground wire. (Normally 85 & 86) These last 2 are the ones involved in switching. Usually you have the power source from a “key on” source. That may be your white wire.(?)
You have 2 options. 1 - run a power source wire to the relay coil (usually #86 terminal). Run another wire from the other coil terminal (#85) to the #3 terminal on the switch. Then ground the #2 terminal on the switch. OR 2 - run a power source wire to the #3 terminal on the switch & run a wire from the #2 terminal to the #86 relay terminal & a ground wire to the relay #85 terminal. Either way grounding #4 on the switch is needed for the switch lights to work. You can splice the factory black wire back together for that.
Sounds complicated but not really too bad. If it helps, PM me your # & I can talk you through it.
|03-28-2012 10:46 PM|
|Wheel2Work||With the key on, check for continuuity from pin 3 to ground (0 ohms), and 12v on pin 4. That will let you know if the switch is wired in correctly. The orange wire is for the dimmer circuit and you are powering you relay from pin 2, so the only thing that can go wrong is that you have the ground and power leads to the switch reversed...|
|03-28-2012 10:38 PM|
|03-28-2012 06:06 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||Is there a factory 4 pin connector behind the dummy switch? If so are you using those wires? How is your KC relay wired?|
|03-28-2012 04:32 PM|
|03-28-2012 03:55 PM|
|03-28-2012 03:51 PM|
|eagle223||I'm using everything kc provided which includes the relay, I will try with headlights on|
|03-28-2012 03:09 PM|
If you are not using the relay provided in the KC kit, and you are running the LOAD as you specified above, then you might have burnt out the switch. Did the lights come on at all when you tried the switch?
The other option is that my fog light switch only works when the parking or head lights are on, and the high beams are off. Did you try this?
|03-28-2012 03:04 PM|
Help with Lights
I have a pair of KC Slimlites that i have wired correctly according to their provided sheet. I have decided i would like to use a factory fog light switch for a cleaner look and since connecting the wires to the fog switch wiring, my kcs do not work. i was hoping someone would have some helpful info. i have a 98 tj sport that did not have factory fog lights. Also the wires i connected are as follows, the first wire on fog switch is orange and i left that connected to the wires that went into the dummy switch before i got the fog switch. the second wire on the switch i connected to my kc load wire, the third wire from the switch i connected to my kc supply wire, and the fourth wire i connected to my ground wire.
does anyone have any helpful hints so i can get this switch to work?