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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-04-2012 09:47 PM
joe002
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideking View Post
Ok cool.

What about the evap though? If it's already torn the boot, do I need to worry about it damaging the other crucial area that would actually ruin the DS? I'm not going to relocate it unless it's really necessary.
The easy thing to do is go wheel it or try to flex it to see if the driveshaft itself hits the skid. If you see scrape marks on shaft from the evap skid, or when flexing, then you decide if you have to remedy it based on how bad the scrape marks look, or how it easy it is to hit, or how bad the contact is.

Mine doesnít hit at all - just the boot did (once).
04-04-2012 09:33 PM
suicideking Ok cool.

What about the evap though? If it's already torn the boot, do I need to worry about it damaging the other crucial area that would actually ruin the DS? I'm not going to relocate it unless it's really necessary.
04-04-2012 09:23 PM
joe002
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideking View Post
The dealer called: As expected, they won't repair the DS, but also said it's not that big of a deal. They didn't recommend any maintenance, but will probably do as suggested earlier and make sure it's regularly cleaned and sprayed with the lubricant...
It's really fine the way it is. I'm sure you'll have bigger worries in the future.
04-04-2012 07:14 PM
TommyT
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideking View Post
The dealer called: As expected, they won't repair the DS, but also said it's not that big of a deal. They didn't recommend any maintenance, but will probably do as suggested earlier and make sure it's regularly cleaned and sprayed with the lubricant. Of course, not covered because it was done off road.

Of course, they also won't do the front alignment as part of my service, wanted $90 for it. So I'll see if the shop that did the lift will give me a deal on it.

Would it still be a good idea to relocate the evap? Or is it essentially too late? I figure if I have to eventually replace the DS I would definitely relocate it at that point.
Check this out, might solve your problem!Rock Hard 4X4 RH6005-A - Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Evap Canister Relocation Bracket for 07-12 Jeepģ Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec
04-04-2012 05:12 PM
suicideking The dealer called: As expected, they won't repair the DS, but also said it's not that big of a deal. They didn't recommend any maintenance, but will probably do as suggested earlier and make sure it's regularly cleaned and sprayed with the lubricant. Of course, not covered because it was done off road.

Of course, they also won't do the front alignment as part of my service, wanted $90 for it. So I'll see if the shop that did the lift will give me a deal on it.

Would it still be a good idea to relocate the evap? Or is it essentially too late? I figure if I have to eventually replace the DS I would definitely relocate it at that point.
04-02-2012 12:04 AM
suicideking
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe002 View Post
I have read where some got theirs replaced for free from the dealer, you may get lucky too.

Though, if you don't change anything you'll tear it again on the evap skid - you need to do something to prevent that from happening again.

In your case (and mine) your driveshaft didn't hit any rocks - it just hit some other part of your Jeep. A skid wouldn't help in that case. I don't think you see driveshaft skids because your driveshaft and axle move all over the place when you are out wheeling and flexing. Most of the time you get a warning that there could be a rock in the way (when it knocks on your diff cover), but you can come done off a rock and land on your drive shaft...
Yeah, If they replace it, I'll relocate the evap before I go wheeling again.

I see what your saying about why you can't skid it. Makes sense.
04-01-2012 09:06 PM
OutlawJK Might consider moving your evap
Over to the left a couple inches if and when you get a new DS
04-01-2012 09:06 PM
joe002
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideking View Post
Awesome! Thanks for the info!

I'm still going to see if the dealer will replace it for free, but sounds like a longshot.

They don't make some kind of skid for that? I don't think I've seen a driveshaft skid. Seems like it would be a good idea. I have the 3 piece EVO skid, but that covers mostly the front areas.
I have read where some got theirs replaced for free from the dealer, you may get lucky too.

Though, if you don't change anything you'll tear it again on the evap skid - you need to do something to prevent that from happening again.

In your case (and mine) your driveshaft didn't hit any rocks - it just hit some other part of your Jeep. A skid wouldn't help in that case. I don't think you see driveshaft skids because your driveshaft and axle move all over the place when you are out wheeling and flexing. Most of the time you get a warning that there could be a rock in the way (when it knocks on your diff cover), but you can come done off a rock and land on your drive shaft...
04-01-2012 08:58 PM
suicideking Awesome! Thanks for the info!

I'm still going to see if the dealer will replace it for free, but sounds like a longshot.

They don't make some kind of skid for that? I don't think I've seen a driveshaft skid. Seems like it would be a good idea. I have the 3 piece EVO skid, but that covers mostly the front areas.
04-01-2012 05:33 PM
joe002
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideking View Post
Here's the pic. Is that the part that is ok to leave as is? Looks like it may have contacted the evap skid.
Yeah, thatís the slip joint. Iíve read that some 2012s hit it and tear the boot.

I would cut of the part that is still sticking out on the upper part of the boot, and cut off the lower part of the boot and remove the lower ring that looks to be all bent out of shape.

Occasionally you can push back on the remaining part of the upper boot and spray in some good sticky grease (I use 5th wheel grease).

You just want to keep it generally clean from debris that you pick up when wheeling.

Just an FYI - that boot just covered the slip joint that slides up and down as you flex your rear end when wheeling. The smaller boots on the ends are the important ones that keep the grease around the balls that roll up and down the grooves of the CV joint. If/when that one goes your driveshaft is shot.
04-01-2012 05:14 PM
rs87277 Tom woods upgrade
04-01-2012 05:00 PM
suicideking Here's the pic. Is that the part that is ok to leave as is? Looks like it may have contacted the evap skid.
04-01-2012 12:21 PM
pluke the 2 ive been without my drive shafts boots for 20k miles with a 4" lift and 37s
04-01-2012 11:31 AM
joe002
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideking View Post
...I had to take a knife and cut off a large section of it...
If you cut off a large section of it then it had to be the slip joint boot - kind of looks like an accordion.

You don't have to have one of those - as I indicated before most aftermarket shafts don't even have one.

You can:
1. Do nothing - plenty have run their shaft with a torn/missing slip joint boot for years.
2. Occasionally clean/grease the area with grease the "sticks". I use spray on 5th wheel grease.
3. I haven't seen replacement boots for JK shafts yet, but you can look around for generics boots and try to find one that fits.
3. Take it to the dealer and they may replace it for free. If all you do is replace it and nothing else you'll rip it again. Did it hit the Evap Can skid?
04-01-2012 11:00 AM
suicideking I guess I'll try the dealer first. I got the maintenance plan, so should be able to bring it in for that even though I don't need an oil change.

If they won't cover it, sounds like it might be best to go with an aftermarket shaft. When I got my lift, I replaced the front shaft. It was $400 + $100 labor. I sold my stock front for $100 and the guy paid $40 shipping. So I figure if I'm going to have the labor done, might as well get an aftermarket shaft seeing that the stock one got damaged so easily.

I have a 2.5" lift, so the aftermarket shaft might be a better idea.

Also, if the dealer won't fix it, I'm thinking of taking it to a shop that specializes in driveshaft repair. Maybe they can fix it.

I'll get some pictures. It's torn pretty bad to where it was making noise. I had to take a knife and cut off a large section of it. I have no idea how to tell which area it is, so pics should help.
04-01-2012 01:37 AM
yomondo
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideking View Post
I tore the boot on my rear DS today on a trail. A few questions:

1. I have less than 5K miles on it. The guys I was with said I should take it to the dealer, they might fix it as a warranty repair. Any chance in hell of that actually being the case? Or will they want to charge me for it since it's pretty obvious that I did it while wheeling.

2. If they won't fix it, can it be repaired easily? It is my daily driver, so it would be unlikely that I could send it out to have it repaired.
Keep a close watch on it. If there's evidence of grease escaping, its days are numbered, replace it ASAP. You could be okay for a while though, depending on how badly it's torn. My front driveshaft boot has been torn for over two years.

Whether or not the dealer will warranty it is hit or miss, but if one dealer won't warranty it, try at least one other before giving up. I had a part covered under warranty from a second dealer after the first said no.

To my knowledge, the boots can't be repaired or replaced. The entire driveshaft has to be replaced. If you do have to replace it yourself, if I was in your position, I would replace it with another stock driveshaft. But that's me. Many others will tell you it's an excuse to upgrade to an aftermarket driveshaft, and that may be sound advise if you plan to wheel it hard, especially with a 4-door where the rear driveshaft is more exposed. Weigh out the pros and cons. Aftermarket ones are stronger, but they require more maintenance, and may result in driveline vibrations that shorten the life of your diff gears and t-case. And replacing the rear driveshaft with an aftermarket one also requires replacing both upper and lower control arms in order to get the proper pinion angle. You can also often find a good deal on a used stock driveshaft from someone who has replaced theirs with an aftermarket one. On the other hand, the stock driveshafts can more easily break on the trail if you land on it. And certainly the boot can easily get torn again.
04-01-2012 01:24 AM
joe002 Is it the slip joint boot (the one in the middle of the shaft)? If so, you donít need it. Most replacement shafts donít even have a boot to cover the slip joint. If itís the CV joint then you need a new shaft.

Iíve read where some dealers will replace the shaft under warrantee - depends on your dealer.
04-01-2012 01:14 AM
themoneypit It's not looking good for you. Warranty is worth a shot but a long shot at that. I haven't had that issue but someone told me once the boot is gone, so is the driveshaft not long after. Time for an unplanned upgrade. Once that boot leaks out all it's grease, shaft locks up, and it's bye-bye driveshaft.
04-01-2012 12:29 AM
suicideking
Queston about torn DS boot

I tore the boot on my rear DS today on a trail. A few questions:

1. I have less than 5K miles on it. The guys I was with said I should take it to the dealer, they might fix it as a warranty repair. Any chance in hell of that actually being the case? Or will they want to charge me for it since it's pretty obvious that I did it while wheeling.

2. If they won't fix it, can it be repaired easily? It is my daily driver, so it would be unlikely that I could send it out to have it repaired.

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