|03-03-2013 03:01 PM|
|03-03-2013 12:33 PM|
The adjustment hole can be seen after the brake caliper is removed. The adjuster hole is towards the rear on both sides - not at the bottom as I was used to with drum type brakes. Be prepared to be able to support the caliper after it is off of the jeep. I used a small stool to put it on so as not to stress the flexible brake line while I worked on the drum/rotor.
|03-01-2013 08:38 PM|
|SilverSport||You didn't ask or we would have given you all kinds of useful info.|
|03-01-2013 03:08 PM|
|kjeeper10||Myself. I went to remove the rotor one day and could not. Did ask on here but never attempted removing it.|
|03-01-2013 02:42 PM|
|03-01-2013 02:32 PM|
My rear parking brake makes some funky crunching noises
Need to get that taking care of ASAP.
|03-01-2013 02:25 PM|
Hi Tom.....yes the thread was a bit zombified but it pertained to my post so I thought I would bring it back instead of starting new. Speaking of zombies, I have been watching a few zombie flicks with my son on netflix and now feel qualified to handle them. How have you been? PM me.
Thanks for the suggestion about the anti-seize. Is that the silver or gray stuff that I saw on the face of the drum? I'm guessing it was put there to prevent the aluminum wheels from interacting with the steel drum. The place on the drum that caused trouble removing it was the edge of the drum facing the middle of the jeep. It had flaked up a distance so that the shoe actually looked like it was in a groove in the drum. Gave me a devil of a time trying to get the shoes past it.
|02-28-2013 11:12 PM|
|SilverSport||jk'n - sometimes the rust build up in the center of the rotor where it sits around the axle and rust where the wheel studs pass thru the rotor makes removal a chore. If you pull the rotor(s to change the seal(s), a thin film of anti-seize around the lip of the holes works wonders.|
|02-28-2013 11:02 PM|
|daggo66||Wow, a zombie poster bringing up a zombie thread! Long time no see. I changed mine before they got bad so there was no rotor damage on mine. Most times today it's actually less expensive to replace the rotors rather than turn them.|
|02-28-2013 10:01 PM|
Good catch on the cracked piston. How did you determine that it was cracked? I have had to replace my rear calipers on my 4 door and had them both done because one of them seized up. I had a shop do it and they said that they would not replace just one they replace them as a pair as a standard practice. Doing it myself, I would probably have replaced them both just so that they have identical performance.
I just completed a rear brake job on my wife's 2 door and thought that this thread looked like a good place to do a debriefing.
The jeep had about 55K miles on it. I measured the thickness of the disk and decided that turning it was probably not in the cards because it was already too close to minimum thickness. That is probably why the dealership will always replace the rotors while replacing the pads. Had the old pads not been fully worn then maybe I would have just replaced the pads if the thickness was still OK.
Pulling the rotor on the driver's side was a pain in the butt. I adjusted the parking brake shoes fully in and still had trouble getting the drum off over the shoes. After a while of trying I finally began beating on it with a hammer while using a 2 X 4 block in between to protect it just in case I was going to re-use it. The edge of the drum had flaked from rust so much that it was interfering with the removal. If that comes up again I wonder if putting a screw driver in at the point in the rear that looked like I could put one in and scraping the scale off could have made it easier to get the rotor/drum off. The replacement pads came with new slide inserts. Do all pad kits come with new ones? That looks like an item that should be replaced on every pad replacement. The rest of the job went pretty much without a hitch. The new pads and rotors/drums work great. No squeaking and excellent stopping power.
There was some thread lock (red) on the piston to adapter bolts. Should that have been renewed? Since it was red I figure that must be equivalent to the loctite permanent lock? Loctite's non permanent thread lock is blue. It appeared that the brakes had not been worked on before so the thread lock must have been put on at the factory.
When doing the brake job I noticed a gear behind the wheel mounting plate and one side had some metal piece engaged, the other side the metal pieces were not engaged. What is the purpose of the gear and the metal part? Does that have something to do with the lockers?
I have some oil sludge that had leaked down from the axle on the passenger side. It appears as though there is a small leak in the axle seal. Since it was not interfering with the emergency brake or getting onto the rotor I figure that I can wait until the weather improves a bit before I replace the seal. Anybody done this? Looking at the procedure, it doesn't look that difficult to do.
|04-17-2012 10:54 PM|
|04-17-2012 10:33 PM|
|04-17-2012 09:20 PM|
thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated!!
turns out I had a bad caliper (piston cracked internally). Ordered two new calipers, replaced the one, bleed the brakes and called it a day.
|04-03-2012 11:36 AM|
|wheels082||I can't recommend a particular brand of rotor, but for the pads Hawk are one of the best.|
|04-03-2012 09:12 AM|
|GREEN-MACHINE||if the pads are really sticking bad to the rotor you may had a bad caliper.. it could be sticking, JMO,, i've been there many times.|
|04-03-2012 08:41 AM|
You probably compressed it enough - if you didn't you wouldn't have gotten the caliper/pad sandwich on the rotor.
You can chock your front wheels, tcase in neutral and stick a floor jack under the pumpkin and try spinning both sides. You'll know what feels right. Then, on the offending side, pull the caliper off and it should move freely (it's slides) in your hand - if not, clean and grease it's pins and retry. If it does move freely, see if the parking brake is binding (if the rotor was a bitch to get off, that could b a problem.
|04-03-2012 07:58 AM|
|daggo66||Brake pads are supposed to remain in contact with the rotor.|
|04-03-2012 01:36 AM|
Thanks for the info, guys. very much appreciated...
I ended up going to advanced auto and picking up a new set of rotors and brake pads for just under $100.00 with some discounts.
Now I have an issue where my brake pads are rubbing constantly on both sides. I jacked up the rear end to check how much resistance was present and there is a lot to say the least. I haven't done very many brake jobs in the past (first time with my JK) and I've never had them rub this bad.
Could it possibly be that I didn't compress the caliper piston enough before putting on the new pads? Are the new pads too thick?
Any help or thoughts????
|04-02-2012 10:25 AM|
I like the stuff from Raybestos
The rear brakes wear much faster on a JK.
|04-01-2012 10:00 PM|
|3JKs1H1||I just did this in the past week on my '08. Front needed pads, rears - needed rotors and pads. Mine had some scoring, but no metal on metal. Scoring was on the backside of the rotors. Bought 4 rotors from advance for just over $100. Only used the rears so the fronts will sit on the shelf. About 65K miles on the jeep. Advance had them at 15% off, free shipping, and $50 off my next order. That sale ended March 31st I believe. I used a NAPA ceramic pads in the front and NAPA UP-8390-M in the rear.|
|04-01-2012 09:59 PM|
|Supercop260||My friend and I just did my front and rear pads and rotors last week. My rear rotors were rusted pretty bad, even though it still had plenty of pad left. I went the simple way and picked up new rotors and pads from Advanced Auto. I forget the brand, but I found its almost as cheap to replace the rotors then having them turned. I'd go that route.|
|04-01-2012 09:44 PM|
Rear Rotors & Pad Replacement
This evening I got around to taking off my rear wheels to give my brakes an once-over and I was shocked to see my passenger side rear brake pad was obliterated. I immediately removed the caliper to check for further damage. To my dismay, the inside brake wall of my rotor is filled with scratches and grooves. What surprised me the most out of this ordeal is the fact that I never once had any indication that my pad was going, no noise, no lost in braking performance, nothing. But it was clearly metal on metal for some time.
Now for my question: I really donít want to have my rotors turned as I would rather just replace them. Is there a specific kind/brand of rotors (rear) you would recommend? And, what brake pads (rear) would you recommend?
Thanks in advance!