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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-21-2013 07:59 PM
WingingIt74 Well... since I can find a really good fix, this is what I did.

Replaced the fan and resistor


Added a fuse block and reshaped the glove box so it would clear the new fuse block.


Stripped the wiring harness down to get to my 4 wires and re-wrapped it.




Created a new wiring harness to go from the fuse block to the switches. Then I added connectors and plugged them in to switches.


A 15A fuse on M2 and High would pop, so I added 20A fuses
08-28-2013 04:59 PM
Majnoon
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
JP did write a revision to their previous story... apparently it didn't work for them as well as they hoped.
Jeep Wrangler HVAC Repair - Jp Magazine
I read about this failure a long time ago. I used these ENZOTECH Memory Ramsink BMR-C1 (Forged Copper Heatsink)
http://amzn.com/B002BWXW6E

I stuck them all over the back of my switch the connector that hooks to it the resister and the connecter that hooks to it. They are for circuit boards. I figure the problem is the heat caused can not escape fast enough. Causing things to melt and not make contact anymore. With these the heat has a new more efficient escape path and so far mine has worked flawlessly. The switch I did it to is the 3rd one on my fan so I know the cause is still there. I'm just keeping things below the melting point. Maybe next time I'm in my dash I will post a pic of my copper porcupine.
08-28-2013 04:33 PM
WingingIt74 JP did write a revision to their previous story... apparently it didn't work for them as well as they hoped.
Jeep Wrangler HVAC Repair - Jp Magazine
08-28-2013 03:33 PM
WingingIt74 I just got my jeep back on the road.... long story of replacing parts and upgrading...

Anyway, I'm back to thinking about this. Why not replace the connectors on the plugs, replace the switches, new blower, new relay... then add 10a inline fuses (or maybe 15a)...

My thoughts are when they blow(and from what I read, the multi-relay isn't the end all fix), just replace the blower (maybe the relay) and the fuses and away you go down the road.

OR even back to my original thought of making a stand alone harness that can handle the amps???
04-13-2012 09:33 AM
2002TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
What amps can the original circuit run? Some where I think was mentioned that the switches/connectors are only good for 10A and the circuit fuse is a 40A.

So if you do a relay fix, what is the rest of the circuit rated at? I'm thinking I may do that and put a 30A fuse in as preventative maintenance. When it pops later down the road, replace the blower.

What are your thoughts?
Yep, you really are better off with an added inline fuse right before the motor rated at about 20-25 amps....A spanky new OEM blower motor pulls 11.3 amps max as per my testing....if it starts bogging down, a lower rated fuse would serve to protect all upstream of it.
04-12-2012 11:47 AM
2002TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
See I was thinking that. Why not just build a completely separate harness that can handle the amps?

Sure surprised there isn't a recall.
Yeah, I agree....my research shows that mopar has revised all the blower and harness part #'s several times...so make sure you buy the latest revisions....mopar has been addressing the issue quietly in that fashion.
04-12-2012 11:39 AM
WingingIt74 See I was thinking that. Why not just build a completely separate harness that can handle the amps?

Sure surprised there isn't a recall.
04-12-2012 11:35 AM
2002TJ Yep, I completely rewired the whole mess and bought new mopar blower, harness and resistor for $232.

Then I used 4 relays, and heavy gauge wires...dash speed switch only triggers relays now.


Thankfully, the new blower has been revised to where the connector is on a pigtail and not built into motor head...The worse that can happen now is that one single connector overheat...if it does, I'll replace blower again.


Bottom line is the fact that the blowers age and draw too much current...as that happens, something has to give be it resistor, switch, harness plugs or some of both.


The lesson here is once you have to replace resistor, then expect to experience another failure eventually somewhere else in the OEM system.

That pic of my relay assembly is misleading..It doesn't show the leads going to pins on resistor
04-12-2012 10:11 AM
fourty4magjr
04-12-2012 09:16 AM
WingingIt74 What amps can the original circuit run? Some where I think was mentioned that the switches/connectors are only good for 10A and the circuit fuse is a 40A.

So if you do a relay fix, what is the rest of the circuit rated at? I'm thinking I may do that and put a 30A fuse in as preventative maintenance. When it pops later down the road, replace the blower.

What are your thoughts?
04-10-2012 10:44 AM
chop110 I did the same thing!

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/writ...fix-52716.html

Funny, I checked the harness connection from "high" wire a few months ago. The plastic had melted some. I think this may have been due to improper grounding. I am still watching it. At least it is not the switch that is melting again.
04-09-2012 10:03 PM
GoldenSahara00 Good stuff.
04-09-2012 12:02 PM
Border Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
The above article from Jp Magazine says the temp at the switches went down, yet the temp at the relays were almost where the original temps were at the switches. To me, that's not a fix, just a band-aide. How I see it, they still have the same issue, just moved it down the line a little.
That may be true, but I did the relay modification back in May of 2008 and haven't had any problems since then. I think the relays handle the heat a lot better than the switch. Not only that, if a relay does go bad it's a lot cheaper and easier to swap it out than the switch.

This is the write-up I used. The OP's pictures have long since vanished, but the info is still there. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=392809
04-09-2012 08:51 AM
WingingIt74 My other pet peeve is the double cardin on the front drive shaft not being greaseable... but that's another topic.
04-09-2012 08:38 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
Talking with a guy up at AutoTire this weekend, it's not just a Jeep thing.... a lot of Chryslers suffer this same issue.

I consider its a blessing because I really have no other issues, and with the recalls you hear about today, there could be a whole lot more wrong than just some 15 year old bad wiring designs. haha.
04-09-2012 08:35 AM
WingingIt74 Talking with a guy up at AutoTire this weekend, it's not just a Jeep thing.... a lot of Chryslers suffer this same issue.
04-09-2012 08:31 AM
GoldenSahara00 I don't have a wiring schematic, sorry. I did mess around with this for a while, never got around to installing the relay. I agree pretty lame that this slipped by Jeep. but if I remember correctly its caused by the blower motor wearing down and requiring more power, so its actually the draw from the motor that is a big issue. I know I simply replaced my resistor and I need a new switch, but it works 1-4 now. with 3 being a lil finicky (I broke the switch trying to make it work )

If you find a decently inexpensive and proper, final fix for this I will be interested. goodluck
04-09-2012 08:26 AM
WingingIt74 Anyone have a wiring schematic for just the HVAC?
03-31-2012 10:57 AM
WingingIt74
Final TJ heater/blower issue fix

I've spent 2 days reading posts and articles every where.

I assume this is the best method to fix this issue?
Jeep Fire Prevention - Jp Magazine

Most posts I've seen say to replace this and that, but no one ever seems to solve the issue.

The above article from Jp Magazine says the temp at the switches went down, yet the temp at the relays were almost where the original temps were at the switches. To me, that's not a fix, just a band-aide. How I see it, they still have the same issue, just moved it down the line a little.

I mention this as I want to keep my TJ for a very long time, not just a few years, so I need a real fix. Something that when I fix it, it's fixed... if you know what I mean.

My thoughts are it needs it's own circuit separate from the wiring harness that it uses now to be beefed up to handle the amps, or a better blower motor.

Known Parts, from a Dealer:
Dash wiring harness is ~$650
Blower motor $249
Blower Resistor $64
Climate control unit $132
Pigtail Plugs maybe $35 a piece, dealer was guessing and didn't know for sure and they were special order.

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