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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-30-2014 03:39 PM
Buckeye01
Worked 4 me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Stan View Post
Are your emergency flashers working? I had the same thing happen on my 97. Read on here were the flashers can cause them not to work. My flashers were'nt, I sprayed a little w/d and worked the flasher switch back and forth a couple dozen times and the flashers and tailights worked.
This worked for me. Thanks Bama Stan!
11-14-2013 09:09 PM
desertdood
Brush Guards

Had brush guards on my rear tail lights. Tightened up the three bolts inside the tail light housing. Solved my right no brake light problem. Many thanks for your help.
11-14-2013 03:14 PM
Beachdude
Brake light problem

Did you ever find out why your brake lights weren't working?
10-24-2013 07:35 PM
Jack55 I had the same problem, I checked and not power at the stop light fuse. I ran a jumper wire from the AUX to the Stop Light fuse and everything is working great.
05-02-2012 04:58 AM
2002TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLynx View Post
We are quite different, and I did not mean that replacing all wiring will make it new again. I simply meant that its one less thing to replace on the road to making a like New vehicle. I am wanting to rebuild abs customize cars in the future, so why not experimented, and do things myself. The explanation you gave could've been handed in sooner to help me versus the seemingly condescending advice that to me read " give up, and pay someone" I know you didn't mean it that way, but still, hope you see where I'm coming from.
When I originally replaced the switch it was because I thought that was the issue, then I saw moisture in a headlight, so of course I figured it could be shorting, replaced. Then I got excited and replaced the rest of the lights except the fender blinkers, and the under dash light. The problem is I saw corrosion in the sockets for the brake bulbs, cleaned it, and for now, the problem is fixed, but I should probably replace the brake light housing deal..
I understand how things may sound in text versus being with me and seeing and hearing.
Just kidding about you being from Oregon. I got a problem with some posters here who don't contribute ideas to help you solve a problem that you bothered to post...They chime in with stupid crap rather than offer ideas. So what if we who do offer ideas for you to try are wrong?...At least we offer advice and experience or we file it away in case it happens to us.

I'm the last guy here who wants to see you blindly swapping parts/spending money and effort toward something that might not fix your problem....EVERYDAY-ten times a day I got folks driving/strolling up/calling, with car problems and they seek me out for an answer...Here, just like I'm at work or in my shop it's no different. I'll scratch my head and ask a few questions and try to walk you thru it till we both have a better understanding of what the problem might be and how best to fix it the cheapest way possible.

Hang in there and do whatever you want with YOUR Jeep and your money no matter what some here think.

Just make sure to come back and post the fix when you find it.
04-30-2012 01:26 AM
TheLynx We are quite different, and I did not mean that replacing all wiring will make it new again. I simply meant that its one less thing to replace on the road to making a like New vehicle. I am wanting to rebuild abs customize cars in the future, so why not experimented, and do things myself. The explanation you gave could've been handed in sooner to help me versus the seemingly condescending advice that to me read " give up, and pay someone" I know you didn't mean it that way, but still, hope you see where I'm coming from.
When I originally replaced the switch it was because I thought that was the issue, then I saw moisture in a headlight, so of course I figured it could be shorting, replaced. Then I got excited and replaced the rest of the lights except the fender blinkers, and the under dash light. The problem is I saw corrosion in the sockets for the brake bulbs, cleaned it, and for now, the problem is fixed, but I should probably replace the brake light housing deal..
I understand how things may sound in text versus being with me and seeing and hearing.
04-30-2012 12:31 AM
2002TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by netlohcs View Post
I'm not disagreeing with the fact that this site is in fact to share knowledge. It was a huge red flag for me though when you said you were considering replacing ALL of the wiring in the ENTIRE vehicle. This is an indication that you are really taking shots in the dark. additionally, the fact that you think that doing this is going to make your vehicle "new" is equally worrying. Any harness you get is going to be coming out of a used vehicle, and have the same wear and age on it. I work on vehicles electrical systems for a living, and its actually suprising how well they stand up. It almost NEVER happens that we find a wire that is just "wore out". The closest thing to that we ever see would be wires that are cracked in the door boot where wires run into the door, and even in these locations it takes decades of continuious movement for that to happen.

I'm not sure what kind of shops your are dealing with, but i'm pretty confident that I would be able to diagnose this issue (and have it fixed) in an hour or less. We charge 50 dollars an hour. It is absolutely not possible that you would be able to change out the entire vehicle harness for even close to that price.
Relax, and leave him to his own devices...he's from Oregon...they are "different" there...trust me, that's where my last ex is from...different.
04-29-2012 01:49 AM
netlohcs I'm not disagreeing with the fact that this site is in fact to share knowledge. It was a huge red flag for me though when you said you were considering replacing ALL of the wiring in the ENTIRE vehicle. This is an indication that you are really taking shots in the dark. additionally, the fact that you think that doing this is going to make your vehicle "new" is equally worrying. Any harness you get is going to be coming out of a used vehicle, and have the same wear and age on it. I work on vehicles electrical systems for a living, and its actually suprising how well they stand up. It almost NEVER happens that we find a wire that is just "wore out". The closest thing to that we ever see would be wires that are cracked in the door boot where wires run into the door, and even in these locations it takes decades of continuious movement for that to happen.

I'm not sure what kind of shops your are dealing with, but i'm pretty confident that I would be able to diagnose this issue (and have it fixed) in an hour or less. We charge 50 dollars an hour. It is absolutely not possible that you would be able to change out the entire vehicle harness for even close to that price.
04-27-2012 10:12 AM
TheLynx
Quote:
Originally Posted by netlohcs
Please dont take this the wrong way... but, if you say you are on a budget, randomly replacing things that aren't actually malfunctioning is pretty much a waste of money. Instead of dumping money into rewiring the ENTIRE vehicle, why don't you just take it to a shop> A local mechanic, or better yet car accessory shop (high end stereo shop, etc) that works on vehicle wiring would probably be able to figure out the problem in fairly short order.
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your concern for my finances, but I also think, if I'm not mistaken, that tech help is one of the main reasons this site exists, so we can help each other with problems we're having instead of paying someone to tell you what's wrong, then charge too much for the repairs.... we all have the same vehicle, and that's why we post help threads, to help, not to criticize others for not taking it to a professional. I've spent less than $100 and replaced several components, my mechanic, even with my discounts, would have changed me much much more
04-27-2012 10:02 AM
TheLynx Thanks for the thought, but I was on a budget when I started this thread. Almost a month ago.... now I have the money to do this stuff, noir to mention I haven't replaced or spent money on anything that wasn't needed, or soon to be needed, I appreciate the concern, but I don't take vehicles to a shop unless its inner engine work, or transmission work. I do plan on getting some remote speakers for the rear, and maybe I'll have them check it out while they're doing it. Might I also remind you and other readers that it can be time consuming, but far far cheaper to do things yourself, and without the and yea, it may be a little foolish to replace things, but then you know it's new, and in the end, you have a better running vehicle and or electrical system. I would rather have that, than pay 3-4 times as much to fix one problem. In the end I would prefer to have a " New" vehicle
04-27-2012 01:24 AM
netlohcs Please dont take this the wrong way... but, if you say you are on a budget, randomly replacing things that aren't actually malfunctioning is pretty much a waste of money. Instead of dumping money into rewiring the ENTIRE vehicle, why don't you just take it to a shop> A local mechanic, or better yet car accessory shop (high end stereo shop, etc) that works on vehicle wiring would probably be able to figure out the problem in fairly short order.
04-26-2012 10:44 PM
TheLynx Haha, same real when I put in a new stereo deck, the PO had twisted the wires together like a twist tie, and did a terrible tape job. Had to buy a new wire harness from the auto parts store, and I didn't have access to a solder gun, so I just twisted them tight and put shrink wrap around them, looks much better now.

As far as you're blinker switch not going back into place, it's probably a rubber band type thing that broke, almost more trouble than it's worth. Had same problem on my custom deluxe pickup, it happens when you hold the switch while you're turning to " keep it from turning off" too many times and it'll break, could be different in jeeps, but I doubt any company needs to reinvent that wheel if you catch my drift.
04-26-2012 09:24 PM
BurlySoldier Haha last week I did a complete stereo system on my new to me 97 Sahara. When I pulled out the 10 year old Eclipse CD head unit it, behind the dash was a complete spaghetti job.
Not only had the last stereo installer rigged up a new stereo wiring harness (hack job!!)but so did another previous owner as there were 2 stereo wiring harnesses back there and neither of them the factory Jeep system. So this jeep had 3 stereo wiring harnesses. And then I had to rip both of those out and solder up a completely new and correct one.
Stereo sounds awesome now

Oh and OP my reverse lights don't work either. Thanks for posting this. I will be getting out the multimeter this week to address that.

And then maybe I will get to the fog lights that don't work..

And then the turn signals that don't turn off after a turn...

When does it all stop? Haha I love my new Jeep!
04-26-2012 05:35 PM
TheLynx So there must be a dusty connection somewhere, took apart my dash and looked for anything that may cause a short, didn't find anything, but they're working now. Thinking about replacing ALL wiring in the vehicle, anyone know what this will set me back? Also probably going to replace the taillights, maybe something better, saw a post where a guy replaced the reverse lights with some nice tiny aux driving lights..

Funny story/ about taking dash apart; I found several items left by PO, the wiring for the aux lights that he didn't leave for me, 2 random wires that weren't missing from anything else, part of a fishing pole, an earring, piece of trash, 2 bottle caps, pencil and eraser, a hole in the firewall that's missing its insulation, and a shit load of dust..... good care taking PO.. thanks for selling me your trash
04-20-2012 05:05 PM
2002TJ Test third brake light wire with meter or test light to ground....If you have brake signal there, then look closely inside your tail light housings for bad/bent/corroded sockets, wrong bulb or installed wrong

Fersure remove trailer light harness, but first test it to see if you get brake signal to trailer pigtail...If you get signal there, then you are good from the switch all the way to fantail of rig...If no signal and it's a modular plug in trailer harness, they are known to fail.....If it's a patched in harness, then yank it and insure wires where it connected are not compromised and well reinsulated.

Get you a test light or meter and a buddy to pump brake pedal or tie wrap the switch....either way buy, beg, borrow a test light or meter.....with either simply probe wires or bulb contacts while other side of meter or test light is firmly connected to ground.

You will discover it really is a simple problem ONCE you find it....Just keep narrowing it down...work fore to aft from switch
04-20-2012 04:21 PM
TheLynx Bumpity bump bump
04-20-2012 01:33 AM
TheLynx So I traced the easy to get to wires, no visible shorts, I'm staring to get frustrated with this issue, is there no one who has had this issue before? New bulbs, switch, fuses, no visible shorts, the only places I haven't checked are the ones that would require me taking the whole dash off. I taped off the third brake wires, don't think I disconnected them, but they don't have a short either.
The only thought I have left is that maybe something is behind the fuse block in the dash shorting out the wiring....... disconnected and all but pulled the towing light wiring, and I don't have any other extras added yet.... help
04-12-2012 07:12 PM
TheLynx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby427
Umm, instead of guessing at a problem, maybe a little diagnosis would do you better.
Not picking on you, but you should always start with the basics when diagnosing a problem.

#1 do you have power to the switch.
#2 do you have power out of the switch when the switch plunger is activated.

In your case, was the switch installed correctly?

No power to the switch, find out where you lost it. Work backwards from the switch to the fuse and if need be to the fuse's power source to find your fault.

OK, we'll say you got power in and out of the switch, and it's installed correctly.
You go to the other end and check for power and ground at the socket. What's missing?

Power? start following the wires till you find the break, or where it's grounded out.

Ground?, as stated the connection between the lamp housings and tub are notorious for bad connections. Not there? then it's more following of wires to find the fault.

Since you have the other tail lamps functioning, more then likely you have a problem further forward.
Yeah, just installed new switch, correctly for sure this time, going to start tracing wires again, I did today test the connections, and it is somewhere between the switch and the rear plug.... I would've tested earlier, but didn't have a tester needle.....
04-12-2012 12:33 PM
Shelby427 Umm, instead of guessing at a problem, maybe a little diagnosis would do you better.
Not picking on you, but you should always start with the basics when diagnosing a problem.

#1 do you have power to the switch.
#2 do you have power out of the switch when the switch plunger is activated.

In your case, was the switch installed correctly?

No power to the switch, find out where you lost it. Work backwards from the switch to the fuse and if need be to the fuse's power source to find your fault.

OK, we'll say you got power in and out of the switch, and it's installed correctly.
You go to the other end and check for power and ground at the socket. What's missing?

Power? start following the wires till you find the break, or where it's grounded out.

Ground?, as stated the connection between the lamp housings and tub are notorious for bad connections. Not there? then it's more following of wires to find the fault.

Since you have the other tail lamps functioning, more then likely you have a problem further forward.
04-12-2012 10:25 AM
TheLynx
Quote:
Originally Posted by LilYeller
If you replaced the fuses already then sounds like there is only 1 more place to look. The switch, near the brake pedal, you said you had issues getting it on. I would think that this is likely the only culprit left. to get it off you need to twist it 1/4 turn (cant remember which way) and same for when you put it back on. also maybe check the plunger on that switch and see if it might be depressed all the way. I wish I had more potions for ya.
I tried to reset the plunger, guy at the auto parts store said that could damage it, but I'll just replace it anyhow... so I'll do that, trace all the wires... again..... and hopefully that'll be it... I'll let you guys know
04-12-2012 10:24 AM
Ron Lee I have the same issue on my '97...only my third brake works fine! Just not the outboards. Have park and turn signals...just no stop lights. Kind of eliminates the "usual suspects"...doesn't it? Just sayin'. Ron
04-12-2012 06:16 AM
LilYeller If you replaced the fuses already then sounds like there is only 1 more place to look. The switch, near the brake pedal, you said you had issues getting it on. I would think that this is likely the only culprit left. to get it off you need to twist it 1/4 turn (cant remember which way) and same for when you put it back on. also maybe check the plunger on that switch and see if it might be depressed all the way. I wish I had more potions for ya.
04-12-2012 12:31 AM
TheLynx
Quote:
Originally Posted by LilYeller

This could be an issue right here. If that wire is just hanging then it could be touching some metal somewhere and shorting out your brake system. Tape that wire off and secure it somewhere that it wont ever touch metal again.

Also, replace your fuse, sometimes the fuse can break but not fully disconnect, it will still register as powered with a test light but will not be putting through a full 12v to power your lights. I had one helluva time figuring this one out on my own.
What fuse? Because I replaced all the mini fuses in the hood fuse box, and behind the glove box. The fuse for brakes in the glove box area did look burnt a little, but like I said earlier in the thread, I replaced all fuses, just in case
04-11-2012 08:26 PM
LilYeller
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLynx View Post
Trailer harness and wiring yes, should I disconnect the wiring? I'll probably never tow with this, also I have a wire for 3rd brake light that's just hanging around

This could be an issue right here. If that wire is just hanging then it could be touching some metal somewhere and shorting out your brake system. Tape that wire off and secure it somewhere that it wont ever touch metal again.

Also, replace your fuse, sometimes the fuse can break but not fully disconnect, it will still register as powered with a test light but will not be putting through a full 12v to power your lights. I had one helluva time figuring this one out on my own.
04-11-2012 08:19 PM
TheLynx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheel2Work
Do you have parking lights, but no brake lights? I know you just replaced the switch, but this is just for clarification... If you don't have either, it is very likely the ground as stated. Have you checked to see if you have voltage at the light socket at all?
I didn't see the ground when I took covers off, I'll tear into it tonight.

and I do have parking/ running lights, flashers and blinkers, everything else works, maybe I'll just replace the switch again? I may have damaged it when I was struggling to fit in the space to get the position required to install it? Problem is that it worked for weeks.... I'm really pushing my luck while driving right now.....
04-11-2012 06:12 PM
Wheel2Work Do you have parking lights, but no brake lights? I know you just replaced the switch, but this is just for clarification... If you don't have either, it is very likely the ground as stated. Have you checked to see if you have voltage at the light socket at all?
04-11-2012 06:10 PM
Kota7x
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLynx View Post
Bump, anyone else have a tip?
The taillights ground through the bolts that mount the taillights to the body. You might want to check those. If you have taillight guards I suggest taking them off to see if you get a better ground without them. I have read about them making bad connections to the body. I hope this helps.
04-11-2012 05:32 PM
TheLynx
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLynx
where exactly are the grounds? I disconnected the towing package under the body panel where the fuel hoses are, and looked but did not see any ground for the brake lights... still not lighting up, maybe after i start and run for a while..
Bump, anyone else have a tip?
04-11-2012 03:58 PM
TheLynx where exactly are the grounds? I disconnected the towing package under the body panel where the fuel hoses are, and looked but did not see any ground for the brake lights... still not lighting up, maybe after i start and run for a while..
04-10-2012 11:11 PM
TheLynx
Quote:
Originally Posted by calrain07
Did you check the grounds on the brake lights themselves. Make sure the three bolts in the tail light housing and make sure they're fastened down properly.
Will check that tonight, thanks, and thanks jp, I'll give these a go and ldt you guys know if it fixes the problem
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