|04-24-2012 11:25 PM|
|Imped||The pucks are delrin, which is a self lubricating material. You'll just want to grease the ID to help with installation. The maintenance is pretty much common sense--check the bolts every few thousand miles and tighten them if need be and that's about it. I spray down the link rod ends before wheeling so crap doesn't stick to them as easily. That's it.|
|04-24-2012 11:24 PM|
|04-24-2012 11:23 PM|
Dang. I sure wish I had some rocks around here.
I have been wanting to go out west for years.
I missed a trip to land between the lakes a month ago.
Sick of all this mud down here
|04-24-2012 11:18 PM|
|nick50471||It does require feeding. Lots of rocks. Mine is getting feed in June at Moab.|
|04-24-2012 11:15 PM|
Only thing I can tell is maybe some grease on the plastic pucks and the bar?
Someone that has had is a few years might could say more than me.
I would like to know about that too
|04-24-2012 10:43 PM|
|TheCaptainsTJ||Is there any maintenance involved with the Anti-Rock?|
|04-23-2012 10:46 PM|
|04-23-2012 10:17 PM|
|04-23-2012 10:08 PM|
Maybe its just me but I'm think it rides better, its noticeable smoother.
nice bonus and i dont think a have heard (read) anyone mention that
|04-23-2012 01:04 PM|
|Imped||I DD mine when it's not down for months at a time. I wouldn't have it any other way.....the stock front sway bar sucks.|
|04-23-2012 12:58 PM|
|04-23-2012 12:53 PM|
|04-23-2012 12:52 PM|
|NorthwestTJ||Wow, I'm sold. I need to get one. My jeep is my DD, is it still a good idea to use an anti-rock?|
|04-23-2012 12:37 PM|
I posted this on another forum so he's a little copy/paste action:
You've got to able to apply some common physics and geometry to this scenario in order to understand it. Here goes my little explanation that I came up with--when it comes to a link suspension, you've got several items that need to take place--support, constraint, and a relationship with the frame. The first item is support--the coil springs support the frame and that's all they do. They determine how high up the frame sits from the axles. Next is the constraining/locating components--those are the control arms and track bar (if applicable). Without those, the axle wouldn't have anything defining it's orientation relative to the frame, nor would it have anything keeping it from rolling around itself. The constraining members define how the frame behaves during moments of weight transfer (anti-squat, anti-dive, roll center and axis, etc). The last component is the relationship with the frame.
Think about this situation--your front axle is articulated one way (let's say driver side drooped) and the rear axle is articulated the opposite way. In a scenario with no sway bars, your frame and axles aren't 'communicating', thus the sloppy, rolly-polly feeling on road. It's not a stable condition regardless of the terrain. With coil springs, you just can't have stiff enough springs to take care of the weight transfers on their own--enter the sway bar. A sway bar flexes in a torsional manner and any time it's twisted/loaded, it wants to return to its neutral state. This force is essentially attempting to keep the frame neutral (LEVEL) while the axles are at an angle...you can view that force as a 'helper' to the springs and shocks as well. The stock front sway bar is too stiff to allow much deflection, hence why it needs to be disconnected. The rear sway bar is much more flexible, hence why it doesn't need to be disconnected.
Enter the AntiRock--it's a torsion bar, just like the stock sway bar. But it is more flexible and works in a more efficient manner than the stocker. Take another scenario--stock rear sway bar + no front sway bar (disconnected). You've now got a sway bar influencing the relationship between the rear axle and frame but nothing going on up front. That's an unbalanced situation and generally, the frame follows the rear axle....ie, if the driver's side is drooped, the frame dips that direction. That's because you don't have a front sway bar evening out the forces acting on the frame. Another scenario--AR up front, stock rear sway bar--now you've got a somewhat equal/opposite relationship and the frame stays fairly level even when the axles are articulated. Additionally, you've got the assistance of the torsional forces helping to keep you upright in off-camber situations.
I've ran every scenario--stock on both ends, stock rear/disconnected front, AR front/stock rear, and now I run AR's on both ends. I can tell you that without a doubt, AR's on both ends is fantastic on and off the road. The rig has never felt so connected. Even with the AR up front and stock rear sway bar (which worked very well), the rear always felt a bit 'separated' from the front, mainly when on the road. With both, it's unbelievably great due to the rear AR's stiffer-than-stock rate. As for the body roll, it's a non-issue. With a good suspension setup--quality control arm joints, gas charged shocks, good springs--the ride is better than the overly-stiff front sway bar and it handles great. With AR's on both ends, body roll is nearly nonexistent and the added confidence offroad is awesome. One recommendation--get over the Jeep world's obsession with the term and idea of "FLEX!!!!". Guess what? Your Jeep will flex as much as the shock travel will allow, regardless of arm length and what sway bar you're using. It's up to you to use components that can put up with that travel without crying for help. Proper sway bars will help you in the traction and stability departments--that's what REALLY matters.
As for the rear AR, I didn't expect much of a difference. I'll leave it at this--the difference is worth the cost on and off the road. AR's or any comparable torsion bars on both ends are key ingredients to the best driving rigs out there. Jerry, go throw one on yours and report back with how you feel after driving to and wheeling at JV.
|04-23-2012 10:58 AM|
|04-22-2012 10:38 PM|
|tailhole||And it makes your jeep looks like its got 600hp when you take off on the street|
|04-22-2012 10:26 PM|
|nick50471||Currie Antirock Product Video - YouTube|
|04-22-2012 10:24 PM|
|04-22-2012 10:24 PM|
|Granman||What exactly is the antirock supposed to do? I see its very popular but have no idea what its purpose is.|
|04-22-2012 10:17 PM|
|2004_Silver_Sport||Wow I had no idea that the anti rock was setup like that. I thought it just ran in the same location as the stock one did. I've been wanting to buy one for awhile but being on a college students budget money is tight especially while restoring a '67 Camaro that gets priority over the Jeep.|
|04-22-2012 10:01 PM|
The Antirock works with the rear swaybar to give you more stability offroad vs being totally disconnected up front. Plus, it's nice not having to disconnect, and reconnect after offroading.
Max. Flex vs. Useful Flex and The Anti-rock - JeepForum.com
|04-22-2012 09:59 PM|
For me, I can leave it hooked up.
And not have to fight with trying to hook up the disconnects after off road ing
|04-22-2012 09:45 PM|
|NorthwestTJ||Stupid question but, whats the point/difference of the antirock?|
|04-22-2012 09:14 PM|
I got a chance to drive the jeep around town a little.
It's different feeling but not bad at all, I like it.
It feels like my big block roadrunner, with the left front coming up when shifting gears. (not power wise, lol)
|04-22-2012 09:08 PM|
|04-22-2012 10:34 AM|
|Jerry Bransford||As much as I like and consistently recommend Currie's Antirock, few TJs need one in the rear. At least in my opinion, a rear Antirock is meant for those with frame-up builds with no previously existing antiswaybar or those whose rear ends have been so modified that the OE antiswaybar can no longer be used. When present and usable, the OE rear antiswaybar actually works very well as is.|
|04-22-2012 09:33 AM|
But thats what i was thinking about. I may just leave the rear one alone for now
|04-22-2012 02:24 AM|
|04-22-2012 01:43 AM|
|04-21-2012 10:46 PM|
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