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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-17-2013 07:08 PM
OKCJK Could a person that was replacing all factory audio, after removing the factory amp use the factory speaker connections at that location with like a 8-9 conductor speaker wire(speedwire) and not have to re-run new speaker wire all over the jeep. Assuming I'll use a PAC R4-ch11 interface. Then run the speedwire back my new amp?
12-10-2013 10:32 PM
rphtx Speaking of the tweeters, yes indeed they fit awesome. They pop right in, but they still could be tighter. Did you glue or tape them in? I dropped the passenger speaker box back in the frame and had no problem on that side. I decided to mount the crossover on the curved plastic paneling directly underneath the glove box with velcro. Fits great and I was hesitant to stick it on the speaker box directly and subject it to a speaker vibration. Probably over cautious, but whatever.

Ran my power through passenger hole down the passenger side floor. Running passenger speaker wires up the roll bar and back down to under the passenger seat to where the amp is. Running drivers side speaker wires side up the driver side roll bar and across the top to meet up with both rears and then down passenger bar to under the seat.

Not sure where I am going to run the RCA's from the HU. Was thinking of just going under the edge of the passenger side center console. Seems like it should be easy.

The only thing I fear is messing with the PAC RP4-CH11 harness. I have been trying to figure out what the hell to do with it, but leaving it for last. I get the general idea, but the details scare me. For instance, the HU has a remote start for the amp that will go directly to the amp from the HU. Howerver, there is a blue/white wire that is built into the harness that says the same. I swear I read that someone had all kinds of trouble because both were being used...issues like that I don't have a clue about!

Otherwise, again thanks for this thread. By far one of the most useful radio build threads around!
12-06-2013 08:00 PM
Lynskey I shall re-hijack back my thread!

All good. Any info to help out others is good stuff in my book.

I found that the C2-650CX speaker actually fit the plastic diameter of the sound bar - but by the slimmist of margins. I was able to get 4 screws in each to grab into the plastic. However a spacer would be ideal if it worked to mount directly to the 3 factory holes.

Up front the C2-650 fit much better to the front pods. The tweeters fit like they were made for those tombstones. No cutting at all.
12-06-2013 05:59 PM
nitroz680 one last thing, (sorry to the OP for hijacking the thread)

This is the mounting adapter I made myself...

Attachment 570306

I made it out of thin duct metal, unfortunately, its so thin, I had to JB weld two together to make a stiff enough one to support the weight of the speakers. I did this for two reasons, I already had the material and two, I could cut it with shears and didnt have to use a power tool.

The ID is 5.5 inches, I traced this diameter with the cardboard stencil that comes with the JL audio speakers. To form the OD and the tabs, I traced my stock speaker and added a little extra to make the ring a little wider. then just put dots where the holes in the 3 tabs are and you are good to go.

If you decide to go this route, let me know, I'll help you out.
12-06-2013 05:50 PM
nitroz680 Attachment 570282

Attachment 570290

This is what I am talking about. The three tabs seen in these photos are what i called the "mounting diameter". They are larger than the JL audio mounting diameter, thus the JL audio mounting diameter needs to be made larger, via an adapter.
12-06-2013 05:44 PM
nitroz680 two things...

In my experience, the C2-650X speakers do NOT drop right into the soundbar. The stock speakers have a built in adapter (mounting tabs almost) that makes their mounting diameter slightly larger than the JL's, therefore you need to increase the mounting diameter of the speakers by using a mounting adapter or making one yourself. This will become blatantly obvious if you go to install them yourself. I made my own adapters and it was very easy, I would be glad to help anyone who has any questions.

2nd, the JL Audio 400/4 XD amp is also what I will be going with eventually. That amp has a relatively small footprint and does not heat up very much like other similar amps, therefore it can be mounted just about anywhere. I have the Tuffy security deck, so I will be mounting mine in my trunk somewhere that does not obscure my cargo.


EDIT: They are not drop in if you do not want to drill into the plastic of the soundbar like the OP did.
12-06-2013 04:44 PM
rphtx I'm about to do an install close to this with a bit different HU. I'm doing:

C2-650 pair
C2-650x pair
JLAudio XD400/4
Pioneer AVH-X2500BT DVD
No sub

This thread is pretty similar, minus the sub. I am a bit surprised that the OP didn't mention anything about how well the speakers fit in the sound bar and up front. Normally you gotta cut or apply something to seal them better. This is my first install, but kinda looking forward to it. It doesn't seem all that technical.

Anyone have a suggestion as to the best placement for the amp...driver or passenger? I was planning on passenger since the power run would be alot shorter than to the driver all things considered.
12-05-2013 09:27 AM
nitroz680 I just cleared it out, try again
12-05-2013 09:23 AM
jdambm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroz680 View Post
I did JL C2-650's all around with the C2 tweeters on the dash and in my opinion, my system sounds awesome, even with the factory 130 head unit and factory sub. You can get these bad boys on the cheap from Amazon.
tried to pm you but your box is full
12-05-2013 08:45 AM
nitroz680 I did JL C2-650's all around with the C2 tweeters on the dash and in my opinion, my system sounds awesome, even with the factory 130 head unit and factory sub. You can get these bad boys on the cheap from Amazon.
12-04-2013 06:49 PM
56cbr600rr with upgraded oem system did you use the A or B Pac harness?

thx
06-12-2013 12:41 PM
Leonidas I just did the c2 650s up front, Kenwood DNN990hd HU and Kenwood amp. I already did Kickers in the sound bar and a kicker sob, so I left those in. Sound is 10x better.
06-12-2013 10:46 AM
nitroz680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynskey View Post

And the new C2 in the soundbar:

are you able to reinstall the grille over the C2-650X?
11-19-2012 10:39 AM
Lynskey
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishmd View Post
Lynskey, how do you like the JL C2-650's? I am drawn to these given the fit of the tweeters in the stock location. I just really don't feel like having to try to dremel out space to make something larger work. Kind of weird though that Crutchfield does not show these as being compatible with a 2012 Jeep?
I love them. Had the same ones in my previous Escape so that is why I did them again for the Jeep. Although I had to leave them in the Escape as the tweeters were in the door cards....

I thought about going to the better C5 line but the C2 are just so easy to drop in. Literally no cutting needed on the tombstones. Sound great, handle a ton of amp power and are drop-in ready.
11-18-2012 01:26 PM
fishmd Lynskey, how do you like the JL C2-650's? I am drawn to these given the fit of the tweeters in the stock location. I just really don't feel like having to try to dremel out space to make something larger work. Kind of weird though that Crutchfield does not show these as being compatible with a 2012 Jeep?
08-26-2012 02:23 AM
Goguyted Got it! Finnaly did it myself, being on vaca all week and not a drop of rain resisting me from heading to the garage... I just went and kept my face in the directions and my hands with the wires. I was successfull with hooking my Capacitor, Amp, and two 12" Rockford Punch 3 subs. Thanks
08-21-2012 01:07 AM
Goguyted Oh yea I've been looking for a wiring diagram for weeks now and all I can seem to aquire that will allow me to simply plug my aftermarket amp to is the PAC SOEM-T but that requires you to tap 5 wires, and I'm not cutting anything I would just try to "plug" into the stock 22 pin gray plug with some nice electric accessories (back of stereo) for Left+ & - Right + & - and a remote start wire so the amp/cap. doesn't kill my battery, then I'd be perfect.
08-20-2012 11:10 AM
Lynskey Yeah I have no idea. Someone must have a 2012 witing diagram floating around. Looks like you need to tap into the speaker lines maybe before the amp (if you have that)...

I am good with wiring, but I usually don't tap into anything factory like that. All of my installs have been plugging in a harness adaptor and using an aftermarket HU to avoid extra items.

Do a search on your set-up for wiring diagrams.
08-20-2012 12:45 AM
Goguyted Hi I see you are working in a real close area of the Jeep that I am. I was wondering if you/someone knows the 21 pin plug-stereo color codes for the installation of a "PAC SOEM-T" (installation instructions)http://www.installer.com/pdf/soem-t.pdf So I can incorporate the 5 wires with the PAC SOEM-T to the correct pins...I'm a novice at the new vehicles electric and am having great trouble finding any legit wiring diagrams too.
07-11-2012 09:25 PM
jslayton2 Bump
06-22-2012 10:43 AM
Ivoryring I have a PAC Steering Wheel interface box in my work Subaru going to my Alpine HU there - interestingly I was able to program some buttons on the steering wheel that are not available as buttons on the HU itself. Anyway - will definitely be getting another PAC unit for my Wrangler.

I'm glad to hear the EVIC is fully functional after the upgrade. Some thing just aren't clear before you actually get done with the work, so thanks for sharing the experience.
06-21-2012 03:08 PM
Lynskey
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperSter View Post
I went with the PAC jack wheel button control and the evic works fine. The only thing that I lost was the phone button.
Yep same here. The PAC harness and SWI doesn't work with the Phone button. Plus my HU has a phone button. I actually programmed the wheel phone button to be the pre-selected channel selector.

programmed as follows:

Left rear button - up/down for next channel, middle button for source toggle (CD, USB, Sirius, etc)
Right rear button - up/down for volume control, middle button for mute
Phone button - Pre-Selected channel changer (toggles through 6 pre-set stations)

Menu and compass buttons are unaffected.
06-21-2012 10:04 AM
JeeperSter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivoryring
Lynskey - does your EVIC continue to work as before with head unit replaced? Any buttons or functions (not audio/video/BT/voice/phone related) lost when pulling out the stock HU?
I went with the PAC jack wheel button control and the evic works fine. The only thing that I lost was the phone button. Dont use it anyway cause can't hear anything with the top off unless I stop
06-21-2012 09:00 AM
Ivoryring Lynskey - does your EVIC continue to work as before with head unit replaced? Any buttons or functions (not audio/video/BT/voice/phone related) lost when pulling out the stock HU?
06-19-2012 12:49 PM
Lynskey Vibration project is complete. Started a new post here:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/sub...ix-167889.html
06-12-2012 08:43 PM
Lynskey However I have noticed that the sub vibrates the shit out of the "sub tub" on certain songs. While I don't mind adjusting the bass on the fly with my remote bass knob for the amp, I can't stand bass induced vibrations.

The fix? Well knowledge in what is happening is the first step. In my last vehicle (2010 Ford Escape) I had sound deadened the entire vehicle. Not talking about sticking monster mat all over - real sound deadening and noise reduction.

With the Jeep I know it is not a SUV. It is not meant to be quiet. But It is also not supposed to rattle when the sub is hitting on a good song. So the fix will be some products from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com.
  • CLD tiles - To line the large flat panels in the rear and trunk.
  • CCF - to line between the "sub tub" and the metal.
Im not going anywhere near my last length of sound deadening. It would be a total waste. But lining a few CLD tiles on the flat, metal areas and CCF'ing between the plastic sides that touch the metal will eliminate the vibration from the sub.

Plus it will help eliminate the increased awareness of the vibration once the hard top goes on for the winter.

I'm picky, what can I say. I don't like things rattling from bass vibrations. I hate the clubby sound from rice rockets that crank the bass with everything rattling. I like good sounding music - not bass booming stuff. Rattles in a Jeep are fine but not to the point of this.
06-12-2012 09:14 AM
Lynskey I haven't done anything in a few weeks. Been enjoying the tunes!
06-11-2012 08:15 PM
Opie9 Looks great.. Any updated pictures?
05-17-2012 03:06 PM
Lynskey Yeah not sure on the phone button. I remember something about it not working.

On mine I have the left side buttons behind the wheel for channel up/channel down and middle button for selection of input (USB1, USB2, Sirius, etc).

On the right side behind wheel I have volume up/down and mute for the middle button. Those were all I cared to have programmed. I use the big ol' BT button on the HU for the phone.
05-17-2012 02:07 PM
JeeperSter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynskey

The PAC-SWI plugs right into the PAC harness and yes you can program everything on the wheel. Not 100% sure on the HU model if you can program the wheel phone button. If I remember right, it depends on the PAC-SWI version and HU capability. I use the buttons behind the wheel for volume up/down/mute and the other for channel up/down/function selection. I use the BT button on the HU for the phone. Plus it auto picks up incoming calls and I just use the HU BT button.
I was told thru crutchfield and my installing shop...the pak unit cannot use the steering wheel phone button. Depending on the head unit, some can do preset up/ down and channel up/ down...others like my Kenwood can have one but not both
Pac has a spec sheet on what their units can do specific cars/headunits
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