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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-13-2012 07:05 AM
AUSTIN B Cool deal ARB it is then... Thanks ... Y'all are a huge help!
05-12-2012 10:14 PM
ShakaZulu8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSTIN B
Installation isn't the problem...I was mainly wanting the most reliable... I figured a manual ox would have less things to go wrong... Am I wrong? I am just trying to build my jeep as reliable as possible but I don't know much about them that's why I'm on here getting ideas...
You would be hard pressed to find a more reliable and reputable locker than ARB.
05-11-2012 03:08 PM
liredneck He used breakes I got were almost new . I've been running them for over a year now and still don't need to change them . ECGS won't send you crap parts their good guys over there.
05-11-2012 01:34 AM
AUSTIN B Installation isn't the problem...I was mainly wanting the most reliable... I figured a manual ox would have less things to go wrong... Am I wrong? I am just trying to build my jeep as reliable as possible but I don't know much about them that's why I'm on here getting ideas...
05-10-2012 12:52 PM
Jerry Bransford If you think connecting an air compressor and switch to a locker is too difficult, then you won't like installing the Ox's shifter and its stiff cable either. Not to mention the vast majority of pro competitors run ARBs and darned few run Ox lockers. I think there were 90+ ARBs but only 2-3 Ox lockers in the last King of the Hammers event.
05-10-2012 12:41 PM
AUSTIN B Ok after doing lots of research I'm going to keep my d30 up front and maybe throw some upgraded shafts and an ox locker up front but in the rear would I be better with a d44 with chromoly shafts an ox locker and disk breaks or an 8.8 with stock shafts ox locker and disk breaks? ... I decided on the ox because I want it to be Manual ( less to go wrong ) and I don't wanna mess with air compressors... And I also want it as drivable as possible on the road....
05-10-2012 08:31 AM
deucestudios I know you said money ain't a thing, but the last 8.8 I bought was $73. Seventy three bucks. If you're gonna spend $4500, I'll shoot you my paypal number, I'll pull one at the local yard here, buy a plane ticket for me, and one for it, and come drop it in your rig myself hahaha
I would bet there's a few offroad shops around you that would do the bracket welding. Ya might want to find a local 4x4 shop, and just go talk with them, or start up an email conversation with them. For $1500 I would think they could get you pretty close to bolted in with a selectable and 4.88s to match, maybe $2000 if they're doing all the work, including brake lines & new rotors & such.
If you got the cash, do it, ditch the 35 and never look back.
Artec's truss kit is pretty sweet.

Yes a lockrite will pop & unload through turns on the street, you probably want selectable, or, consider keeping the stock ford LSD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
X2

I would actually swap to another d30 or hp30 with 3.73s in it. Much cheaper.
3.73 is/was a very rare gear count in Cherokee's,a lot more common in TJ/LJs, that's gonna be a tough one to find.

But you're right man, OP's got deep pockets.
05-09-2012 11:36 PM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSTIN B
One more dumb question... You say you put a lock rite.... How does that compare to an air locker? And will it affect my on road driving? ...
Lock rite is a auto locker which uses torque from the drivetrain to lock it which means as long as your foot is on the gas its locked.
Air locker is a selectable locker which means you flip a switch and as long as the switch is flipped its locked, when its unlocked it acts as an open differential.
An auto locker will effect on road drive ability, you may hear your tires chirp in corners an it will put more stress on your axel but its still drivable on the street you will just have to learn and adapt to it.
05-09-2012 10:40 PM
AUSTIN B One more dumb question... You say you put a lock rite.... How does that compare to an air locker? And will it affect my on road driving? ...
05-09-2012 10:28 PM
AUSTIN B
Quote:
Originally Posted by liredneck
$4500 is alot .I think it's like a 1/2" shorter so 1/4" on each side . You won't even notice it . I got mine from ECGS for around $1500 that's with a lock rite . The stock shafts are pretty strong as it is so I did not opt for them , used breaks , 4.10, and a solid diff cover is what I think I went with . Put it in the jeep by myself in a day .i wheel pretty hard on 35" Baja claws and haven't busted a stock 8.8 shaft yet .
I got that price figuring everything new.. But if I don't need it all new $1500 is awesome... I was just worried about getting used stuff.. I didn't know what kind of shape they would be in...
05-09-2012 09:46 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by liredneck
$4500 is alot .I think it's like a 1/2" shorter so 1/4" on each side . You won't even notice it . I got mine from ECGS for around $1500 that's with a lock rite . The stock shafts are pretty strong as it is so I did not opt for them , used breaks , 4.10, and a solid diff cover is what I think I went with . Put it in the jeep by myself in a day .i wheel pretty hard on 35" Baja claws and haven't busted a stock 8.8 shaft yet .
Correct stock 88 shafts are good up to at least 37s locked.
05-09-2012 09:43 PM
liredneck $4500 is alot .I think it's like a 1/2" shorter so 1/4" on each side . You won't even notice it . I got mine from ECGS for around $1500 that's with a lock rite . The stock shafts are pretty strong as it is so I did not opt for them , used breaks , 4.10, and a solid diff cover is what I think I went with . Put it in the jeep by myself in a day .i wheel pretty hard on 35" Baja claws and haven't busted a stock 8.8 shaft yet .
05-09-2012 09:11 PM
loomisman ok thanks
05-09-2012 09:05 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by LilYeller

Why not? The way I understand it is that unless you are really torturing your Jeep the D30 generally wont be under enough stress to become an issue. The D30 is a decent front end and can withstand locked 35's. Plus they sell a 3.73 ratio for the front so unless you want to change the axle up front just to have something better, I'd say save some cash for other mods. Just an opinion and Im no expert, just relaying my limited knowledge and what I decided was best for me.
X2

I would actually swap to another d30 or hp30 with 3.73s in it. Much cheaper.
05-09-2012 08:49 PM
LilYeller
Quote:
Originally Posted by loomisman View Post
I have a question..... I just bought a ford 8.8 with a 3.73ratio to replace my D35c with 3.07 on the rear, what should I use on the front to even the ratio out? i know I can't keep the D30 on the front
Why not? The way I understand it is that unless you are really torturing your Jeep the D30 generally wont be under enough stress to become an issue. The D30 is a decent front end and can withstand locked 35's. Plus they sell a 3.73 ratio for the front so unless you want to change the axle up front just to have something better, I'd say save some cash for other mods. Just an opinion and Im no expert, just relaying my limited knowledge and what I decided was best for me.
05-09-2012 08:17 PM
loomisman I have a question..... I just bought a ford 8.8 with a 3.73ratio to replace my D35c with 3.07 on the rear, what should I use on the front to even the ratio out? i know I can't keep the D30 on the front
05-09-2012 08:14 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSTIN B

Ok I've been thinking about the 8.8 but isn't it shorter? Does it matter? I've been looking at some on ecgs and they run about $4,500 with lockers chromolly shafts and everything ( this price everything new and ready to bolt in to a tj ) it says on the site that they are factory width but idk if it's ford factory width or jeep width... Money isn't a problem ... Sorry for all the crazy kindergarten questions but I want to do it right the first time...
They are like .75 inch shorter per side. Not enough to matter. It is a great upgrade. If money is no object then I would get an 8.8. If you want to keep costs down I could do the shafts since your already regeared
05-09-2012 07:02 PM
AUSTIN B
Quote:
Originally Posted by LilYeller
I just went through this with my rig, 2000 sport with 35's on it. I needed to regear since it has 3.07 stock and figured my d35 wouldnt handle the 4.56's very long since I love my skinny pedal lol. I ended up going with a 31 spline 8.8 rear with posi out of an explorer, it also upgrades you to rear disc brakes. Cant beat it IMHO. The d30 should be ok with 35's and if I break something then shafts arent too expensive to upgrade.
Ok I've been thinking about the 8.8 but isn't it shorter? Does it matter? I've been looking at some on ecgs and they run about $4,500 with lockers chromolly shafts and everything ( this price everything new and ready to bolt in to a tj ) it says on the site that they are factory width but idk if it's ford factory width or jeep width... Money isn't a problem ... Sorry for all the crazy kindergarten questions but I want to do it right the first time...
05-09-2012 06:17 PM
LilYeller I just went through this with my rig, 2000 sport with 35's on it. I needed to regear since it has 3.07 stock and figured my d35 wouldnt handle the 4.56's very long since I love my skinny pedal lol. I ended up going with a 31 spline 8.8 rear with posi out of an explorer, it also upgrades you to rear disc brakes. Cant beat it IMHO. The d30 should be ok with 35's and if I break something then shafts arent too expensive to upgrade.
05-09-2012 05:49 PM
AUSTIN B Well I'm the kind of guy that would rather not break down and have to tow my jeep home or fix it in the woods.. I have 2 vehicles but my truck stays in west virginia for work and my jeep is in Louisiana at home..( I fly back and forth ) so both are kind of daily drivers .... So basically my plan is If the shafts are upgraded I'll leave it alone but if not should I change shafts and put money into the 35 or just do a rear axle swap all together?
05-09-2012 03:43 PM
GoldenSahara00 Compared to the 9k he mentioned spending earlier?

Modding isn't cheap. If he doesn't plan on wheeling then he won't need a locked 88/ locked 44 front either. I'm saying if he does want to wheel a bit the cheapest thing he could do, while still being safe for his axles, is what I said.
05-09-2012 03:39 PM
deucestudios I don't see a lunchbox and shafts being pretty cheap, and, end of the day it's still a 35.
I also wouldn't tell anyone new to Jeeps that they should put a lunchbox in the rear, when they're probably gonna use it on the road mostly.
Again, that's just my opinion though.
05-09-2012 03:27 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by deucestudios

"Need to" and "$300 d35 shafts" don't really go together in my opinion.
Especially down south where I bet you don't play in many rock gardens.
I don't see anything hangin off of that diff that would make me think it's locked, an open 35 is gonna last a bit longer than a locked one.

I still say take it out and beat it till it brakes and go from there.
But you might be the type of guy that likes throwin coin around, and hey, it's your jeep...
Or maybe he's the kind of guy who likes having a vehicle to drive around, not one broke out in the woods? Better safe than sorry. I'd rather pay a little than not have a vehicle to go to work etc for a few days.

There are guys who break d35s on 31s. Unlocked. On road.

The op stated he wants a locked rig. So for pretty cheap he can throw an auto locker and shafts in there. If he doesn't want to upgrade shafts he should at least carry a set of spare shafts. In the end it's his jeep though.
05-09-2012 03:09 PM
deucestudios
Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSTIN B View Post
Ok so basically I need to check my shafts and if they aren't upgraded I should do so... Got it....
"Need to" and "$300 d35 shafts" don't really go together in my opinion.
Especially down south where I bet you don't play in many rock gardens.
I don't see anything hangin off of that diff that would make me think it's locked, an open 35 is gonna last a bit longer than a locked one.

I still say take it out and beat it till it brakes and go from there.
But you might be the type of guy that likes throwin coin around, and hey, it's your jeep...
05-09-2012 01:54 PM
AUSTIN B Ok so basically I need to check my shafts and if they aren't upgraded I should do so... Got it....
05-09-2012 01:44 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by C.L. View Post
ESPECIALLY if you really do have 4.88 gears. That puts a hell of alot of torque on a thin C-Clip axle. Take it easy on the skinny pedal until you find out what shafts are in there.

x2

at this point he would be good to put the super kit/shafts in and maybe a locker depending on his style of driving. Then he would be set to wheel with the 35s IMO. gears would be right, axles would be strong enough, and a rear locker would get him almost anywhere.
05-09-2012 01:39 PM
C.L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMA_Rider View Post
dana 30 front
dana 35 rear
if the PO didnt up grade the 35 to a super 35 (chromoly axle shafts) then you are sitting on a timebomb the 35 is notorious for breaking on stock wheels and tires
ESPECIALLY if you really do have 4.88 gears. That puts a hell of alot of torque on a thin C-Clip axle. Take it easy on the skinny pedal until you find out what shafts are in there.
05-09-2012 01:33 PM
tcate23-WRANGLER definitely a dana 30 front, stock.

EDIT: ^^^beat me to it.
05-09-2012 01:30 PM
CMA_Rider dana 30 front
dana 35 rear
if the PO didnt up grade the 35 to a super 35 (chromoly axle shafts) then you are sitting on a timebomb the 35 is notorious for breaking on stock wheels and tires
05-09-2012 01:24 PM
AUSTIN B I made my little brother go take pics of my axles.. Lol.... So here they are... What are they?
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